gr5

YOU ARE ALL DOING IT WRONG!!! MY WAY IS BEST!!!:angry: lol. Mostly just kidding. Once you level with paper, never do it again. That gets you close. Then level by printing a skirt or brim or just printing your next part. As it does the brim turn all 3 screws THE SAME AMOUNT. It's a panicked feeling the first time trying to hurry up and adjust before the skirt is done. But you should adjust during the start of EVERY print as it's good practice. Even if you turn them all 1/4 turn and then turn them back. This way you know instinctively which way to rotate to squish more or to squish less. By the 10th time it will be a non-thinking action. you will just reach to a screw and turn it the right way to squish more (or less). If you then find it's levelled perfection in one corner but not another then you can turn the screws different amounts. Advanced adjustment is that when a corner without a screw needs to go up you think of the whole glass as a see-saw. For example if you want to squish more in the back left corner you want bed to go up there so down in the front right corner. But to not mess up the previously perfect leveling on the front right you adjust the other 2 screws up to bring the front right back where it was. It's rare that I have to do this extra step - really the "paper method" gets it level quite well and then the on-the-fly method gets it just right. Also note that on the UM2 the printer sets the bed at ".8mm above 0" position also known as Z=0.8mm which is about right for a piece of paper. But on the UMO you are leveling the Z=0mm position. So you want it tight on the paper. Or alternatively after leveling squish the bed up into the nozzle by about 0.5mm or 1 full turn (M3 screws are 0.5mm thread pitch so .5mm for each full rotation). One more thing - usually if it's clearly not squishing enough I do a half turn at a time. If it's close but needs slight tweaking I do about a 1/4 turn at a time. To get parts to stick to the glass (or tape) you need to level it a bit squished which is more squished than the normal technique gives you with a tiny elephant foot on the bottom layer only. For parts that don't need to stick but need to be more dimensionally accurate and where you don't want to cut/file off that elephants foot then you level it not-so-squished.

Does this work with UM2? Did you try it? How to set it up? @fredz - google repetier host to learn more. You can also use octoprint (again google). You can also run octoprint on a raspberry pi which is a 25€ computer. Running a print from a laptop that you intend to watch movies on while printing - very bad idea. You really want a dedicated computer doing that like the raspberry pi. But if you want to do this with a windows or mac computer it's very simple, just connect the USB cable. Even Cura will do it for you. Or pronterface. These are all great programs (well not so much cura) for controlling your printer through the usb. When you slice it's important to tell cura that your "machine" does not accept ultigcode - you want regular reprap gcode as ultigcode doesn't go through the USB properly (has to do with temp settings, filament diameter, and so on). Note that for some people it works fantastic and other's they have to swap computers, USB cables, add USB buffers, and all manner of frustration until they get it working and only then it works great for years. I have ruined several prints due to windows office updates, windows updates, windows crashes, screen savers, power saver, etc. Windows sucks for this kind of thing. Mac also. I even rebooted the computer on purpose once and forgot that it was the only thing keeping my printer going. That was very stupid of me. And very annoying. Another ruined print.

herman what country are you in? Please update your profile settings.

Cura needs to make 2 passes through a wall - one pass to create the outer edge of the wall and one pass to create the inner pass. I know this seems silly but it is a limitation of the Cura software and how the slicer works (it only prints loops when printing "shell"). So you should make that .4mm wall 1mm (or at least .8mm). I would experiment with different "shell width" sizes. If you change nozzle width to .39 and leave shell at .8mm it won't make ANY DIFFERENCE. You have to change shell. So just for a test leave nozzle alone at .4 and set shell to values like .39, .35, .3 and see what happens. If it slices fine at a given value such as .39 then you don't need to change your model as a .4mm nozzle can go down to about .36 without much reduction in quality. So change the nozzle size to .39 (or whatever) and shell to a multiple of nozzle size.

UMO and UM2 use "software endstops" which means the firmware keeps track of head position and won't go beyond a certain distance. This distance is compiled into the Marlin firmware. The UMO has dual endstops for X and Y axes but one of these endstops is not needed on each axis.

Great post! Wow! Nice analysis. I will tell one of the Electrical Engineers at Ultimaker about this! I hope they fix this in a future release of the UMO. The UMO keeps changing and getting better with silent upgrades every year. I don't get MINTEMP on my UMO but I know many people have had issues. The "D" term in the PID controller is very sensitive to noise/error so getting better than .1C accuracy would make the PID controller much better.

I wouldn't know. Call their support line - they are great. 3dsolex.com sells nozzles. In fact they made the first few thousand olsson blocks that were given out free with UM2 printers in November and December 2015. It's all basically the same block. Or you can get nozzles from e3d-online.

I always put my filament on the floor so it doesn't matter to me. Also some spools have the center hole too small for the spool holder on the UM2. So just put it on the floor. I'd be more concerned about the filament diameter. Colorfabb 3mm filament is actually closer to 2.9 or 2.85. But this brand you bought I've never heard of and it says it's "3.00mm +/- .05mm". I wouldn't buy that. If it hits 3.05mm and gets squished out of round a bit by the feeder it can easily get stuck in the bowden. The symptom will be massive underextrusion but you won't know what's causing it. It may be fine for 10 meters and then stuck in the bowden for the next meter. One way to do it on the floor:

You probably have NEVER dealt with an internet store this small. It is staffed by one person who is concentrating on new products. Not the store. He really really wants you to use the other stores out there. He has some fantastic new products coming out - the only one I can mention is a new super hard nozzle that makes steel nozzle look like butter. But store sales? I don't think it's his thing. Also he just moved his family and store into a new house and everything is in boxes and hard to find and everything takes longer than before when you don't know where anything is. Although of course email is in the same place it always was. Maybe your emails are in his spam folder.

I didn't bother with the tuning and it's good enough. I suppose I should do it to reduce the initial overshoot in temperature. I think Daid's original PID values may have been for a 35W heater actually as at one point he realized that most printers were 25W but his was 35W.

In this topic - please English only. There are other forum sections for other languages.

If you are desperate enough to come to Boston contact me by sending an email to gr@gr5.org, then you will get a bounce email - locate it (may be in your spam folder) and follow the simple directions to prove you are human.

For pla just always use 60C unless the part is edge-to-edge (200mm long on at least one axis) and you are desparate. I haven't gone over 60C for PLA in a year. If you have a IR temp gun, you want the center of the glass to read 65C and the edge 60C (where the sensor is). Elmer's wood glue, glue stick, hair spray all have PVA as their main "glue" ingredient. Wood glue or glue stick works best if you mix with water because you can get a thinner coat and thus more perfect bottoms on your prints. Wood glue is really the easiest - after mixing 10 parts water (it's not exact - 20 parts water is fine too) spread with paint brush. Rinse the brush after. Set the bed to 60C and wait for all the liquid to dry clear before you start. Maybe 5 minutes at the most. It should be invisible - or very very difficult to see when it's ready to print. You can re-use that glue for several prints. Usually I keep a bottle of water and throw on a tablespoon after a few prints and spread that around with the paint brush. This is more ugly when you are done but works fine.

3dsolex really prefers you use other places to order your parts. I'm sure one of them will ship to India. He is not big on communication but he is quite good on sending you whatever you order. And if you are unhappy he is quick to send a free replacement or refund or whatever you want.

Instead of using google images it's better if you download the image to your computer and then use the right most icon above editing your post to go to "image gallery" and then upload the image there. Anyway the image is a bit blurry - usually looking at an image I can see instantly what the problem is - but not for your case. If when you do the atomic pull the filament comes out but the tip has a long windy/stretched appearance then you just need to do the pull at a slightly cooler temperature. Try 85C next time. Changing the location has nothing to do with this problem but reveling might. I recommend avoiding the leveling procedure. I have hit my bed very hard and it rarely affects the leveling position. When you leveled the second time maybe the bed was too far or too close - you want the initial lines coming out to be squished a bit like a pancake. But not so much you can see right through it. Just turn the 3 knobs WHILE IT IS PRINTING the bottom layer. Don't panic - think it through: "too squished - need to move bed down - so need to tighten screws, so clockwise from below". The first few times it takes a minute to figure out which way to turn, but soon you become expert. Turn all 3 screws the same amount - start with half turn at a time. If the bed is too far from the nozzle the filament doesn't stick well and you get globs here and there. If the first layer is fine but you have problems on the second layer it's probably unrelated to leveling as leveling only affects the bottom layer. To get the horseshoe out - just unscrew the 4 thumb screws completely so the bottom kind of drops off and shake things around until missing part falls out. Maybe poke a bit with something long and skinny.

That is an important part. That part it fell off is called a "pololu" so try googling: pololu heatsink I think they are glued on with special heat conducting glue. You could instead google for that.

Make sure you read this carefully - it's easy to break your temp sensor but the guy who wrote this has replaced about 100 with only breaking one temp sensor: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/62-installing-the-olsson-block-kit You have to set the nozzle size in 2 places: shell width, nozzle width. In nozzle width obviously set that to the nozzle size e.g. .4mm but for shell width it must be a multiple of the nozzle size - so for .6mm nozzle you would set that to .6 or 1.2 or 1.8mm etc. If you set it to a non-multiple it will do strange things. For example if you set nozzle size to .6 but print width to 1.3mm then it will print as though you have a .65mm nozzle (not a .6mm nozzle).

If you want to drive into Boston, MA I can fix this for you in seconds. If you have an olsson block with your printer then I can install that for you also.

Leaning/slanted prints are almost always a loose screw. Especially this extreme. The same screws you said you just tightened. Did you tighten them all? Even the ones on the motor? There are some rare cases where there is very high friction on X or Y axis - you can test for this - with power off push the head around with one finger on each of the 2 opposite blocks. You should be able to do it with one finger on each block. Much much more likely you still have a screw that isn't quite tight enough. You have to tighten the hell out of them - the tool should actually twist and you should be a little scared the tool will break. You might want someone with above average finger strength to do this step. If you look at which direction the part leans that tells you which axis has the problem and limits you to only 6 screws (actually most likely only 2 screws -the 2 on the belt going to the motor).

You lose only about 2mm at the most I believe. If you are printing something 200mm high or higher you should make sure your bed can actually reach that before starting the print. I recommend using pronterface to test this out - takes just a minute to test different heights and see where the limit switch gets hit. pronterface/printrun (it's free and an easy gui to use): http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

70C is a bit hot. 60C is recommended. Parts will stick to glass poorly if the glass is 30C but around 45C you suddenly get much better stickiness - it's a pretty sudden shift - above the critical temperature it doesn't matter what the temp is. Sort of. Then you hit the glass temp of PLA around 52C. Being above 52C is helpful because if you have a large print it helps it give just a tiny tiny bit to reduce the stress and help prevent corners from lifting. This is better at 70C and even better at 75C. However only use that if you are desperate as there are plenty of other ways to get a part to stick other then keeping it above glass temp. Above glass temp your parts are more like clay and can be easily deformed - also don't remove them from the glass until it has cooled to below 50C or you will warp the part a bit. So at 70C you get issues like the fifth picture down on the left here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide This heat can also make overhangs like the robot hands a bit worse. Just make sure you have max fan and nozzle at 210C and bed at 60C (or maybe even 50C). I always print at 60C with PLA and 100C with ABS.

I would fix that rubbing - it can cause ugly layers potentially - they will show up as intermittent horizontal lines in your prints. You could remove the cap and cut a bit off or file it down. If you aren't getting any horizontal lines then it's not a big deal. Like this one - this print has pretty severe Z issues (bed not moving the same distance each time):

You have several choices: 1) You can just select PLA tell it to print and then while it is heating up go into the TUNE menu and change the bed and nozzle temperatures. 2) You can create a custom material and it will be called CUSTOM1, CUSTOM2, etc. Do this in the materials menu and the menus are confusing but the main confusing point is that *after* you hit save you then have to select a material to save to - so pick custom. 3) The best long term solution - once you know what temperature you like to print at - in the materials menu you can save all materials to the SD card. Then move the SD card to a computer and there is a file in there that is very easy to edit - create all kinds of custom materials like Nylon and call them "Nylon" and not "CUSTOM1". Then put the SD card back int he printer and load the settings from SD card.

Yes. But make sure you also leave the nozzle at 0C so you don't get that light confused with the bed one. Sander was talking about the red led that you can see in the right photo above - kind of under the heatsink. Just above screwdriver in photo. He was saying in your first photo way way above you can see that LED through the hole of the heatsink.

Pivoting? If you are talking about a bearing (any place where 2 parts slide across each other such as a hinge) then... For vertical walls you can be extremely close - around .1mm or .2mm in the model should work okay - you have to experiment. It depends on printing temperature (lower is better) and fans (more is better) and material (PLA needs more of a gap than higher glass-temp materials). However for vertical separation you probably need at least .2mm if not more. Also you might need to turn off all the "fix horrible" settings (expert tab) or it might combine 2 pieces into one part and print right over the gap.