gr5

By the way when it happened to me before I used a big butane flame lighter and an exacto knife. I heated the knife blade to glowing red hot and used that to carefully slice the filament without cutting the print head anywhere. I did it in two cuts - one halfway then reheated. I didn't want the knife stuck in there as well! I sliced just at the top of the print core. This is a bad idea for you as then you would have to potentially disassemble the core. For me I had to do that anyway at the time.

This happened to me once or twice. But it stuck above the top of the print head so after I sliced it the top half was trivial to remove. So I'd try pushing it town through. Go to the middle menu on the left and click the top right where it says "PVA" (or alternatively the middle right where it says "BB 0.4". Then in top right corner click "..." and select "MOVE" (or temp if you had selected BB 0.4). This should heat it up to melting temp. Then cut a hand's length of pva and push down in from the top to push the the PVA into the core and out the nozzle. Do this until you think you got it all pushed out. Then this is an opportunity for a cold pull. Turn the heat off and continue to apply gentle pressure from above until it stops oozing out the nozzle. Wait until the temp is about 100C and pull firmly upwards (to avoid bending the rods move the head in any of 4 corners). If the printer lifts off the table and it's still not pulling out, raise the temp by 10 or 20C, pulling at the same time. A perfect cold pull will end up with the tip of the filament in the exact shape of the inside of the nozzle including the .4mm tip. I don't know the "cold" temp for PVA. I just don't remember. I done cold pulls with PVA but I have since forgotten the temp.

So I saw no problems with lifting switch. Everytime it tried to change the position of the switch it seemed to work fine. The first time you do anything like start a print, the printer doesn't know the current setting of the switch so it doesn't use the "slot", and instead uses the edge. This is in case the switch is already switched (which it was when you started the print). that's probably why it appears to you to be "3cm off". It's just getting the switch into a known state. If it tried to "switch" it without doing this the switch could push very hard against the device and not actually change anything. Instead I see you are getting a leveling error. And it seems to happen after testing MANY points which as far as I know only happens if your bed isn't very close to level in the first place. So I would do a manual level procedure first and then try doing another print. You could also test the leveling sensor - there is a test for that. That test also gives you a number - any number < 8 is a pass. Knowing the value of that number might be helpful in case it's the sensor but I think it's that the bed is too far out of level to be levelled with software alone. What happens is if the bed is crooked the part starts off printing crooked to match the bed and then slowly changes to level and if you print a cube for example, the bottom face will be crooked by the amount the glass bed is tilted. So if it's tilted too much customers complain about how the part bottom is crooked. So the printer forces you to at least get *close* to level first. With the manual leveling.

Today I was thinking of doing something similar - I have some nest thermostats and I learned there is an API so I could make a web page that lets you see all the thermostats in all your homes all on the same screen and adjust them all from one screen and then I could have an ipad on the wall permanently... Just a thought.

No the limit switch is something completely different from the lift switch. Also known as an "end stop". Anyway I can tell yours is fine by the sound. If it was bad there would be some nasty sounds happening or it wouldn't even go to the corner when homing. I'd try the procedure a few more times. It always takes me a few tries. Maybe your Y stepper is slipping? Either a bad driver or too much friction. Try oiling (just one drop!) the 6 rods in the gantry (count them - make sure you get all 6). But the video really looks good. Try calibrating again - maybe video the whole procedure starting when you have placed the print head into the switcher gap. And then also post the log file here. Maybe there is some error that shows up in the log error (disk read errors or limit switch triggered).

Thanks for helping others. Why don't you want to use digital factory?

The time on the screen is probably wrong. I'd just continue the print and it should be fine. There's probably a bug with the time calculation if you pause the print. No big deal. If you aborted the print already then yes it should be possible. Keep the bed hot! If the bed cooled then your part is probably no longer sticking to the bed and it's too late. I don't know the start up procedure on the UM2+C. On the UM2 it does a nozzle purge which involves touching the print bed in the front left corner. If this should hit your print then you can't continue the print. On the S3/S5/S7 printers you are out of luck because they do active leveling. But on the UM2+C I think you can do it. Take your existing gcode file (is it a UFP? If so rename it to zip and extract the gcode file, edit and put it back in and rename back to ufp) and edit it. There are instructions on the forum of what to do. There are 2 steps: 1) Remove all the layers you don't want. Easy - there are comments in there - any line in the gcode with "E" in the name involves extruding so make sure any extruding is done well above your failure point. The tricky part is to find where it failed and you can do that with a micrometer or with trial and error. 2) reset the E value. Read about the G92 gcode. You want to fool the printer thinking it has already extruded the exact right amount of filament and use G92 to reset E to the correct value e.g. 1234mm of filament. Google G92 and "resuming" on this forum and you should be able to find it: google this: site:ultimaker.com g92 resuming Lot's of notes on resuming a failed print.

https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004226246-Printhead#“printheadcable"

Particularly on Ultimaker 3 printers, the cable tends to slowly pull out of the print head. So this might be the problem. Remove the two screws towards the top rear of the print head. Nothing will fall apart when you do this. It's very simple. Then the rear half of the top of the print head can be removed upwards. Inside you will see the connector. Try pushing it down better with some tool. If you try to pull the connector out be very careful as you need to engage the release mechanism first and I forget how to do that but there are pictures and videos on ultimaker support pages. When putting it back together I recommend some paper as a shim so that the cover that you put back on holds the cable quite tight and prevents it from being pulled upwards while printing.

Regarding the camera issue only: the ability to see the camera (over LAN - unrelated to DF) went away briefly a few weeks ago with version 8.1.1 and I think it's back in 8.1.2. So check the firmware version on the printer and if you have 8.1.1 then upgrade to 8.1.2. If you have 7.X, I'd leave it as is for now until you get DF figured out.

On the 2+ you can go in through the menu system and it reports how many hours it printed and how many meters of filament it printed.

UM2 is going to give you better print quality because of the light weight head. UM2 is very easy and cheap to repair if anything is broken. Most of the parts will last "forever". The parts that don't are cheap. the most common part to fail is the teflon isolator which is a white part a bit above the nozzle. You should change that every 200-600 hours of use anyway. It's about 20 euros from Ultimaker. The belts can go bad but 95% of printers never print enough parts to wear out the belts. Belts are also very cheap. Do you know what kinds of parts you are going to print? Most people guess wrong so maybe I shouldn't even ask.

Get the UM2+. Fantastic work horse. Even if it has 5000 hours on it, at the worst it will just need a few cheap parts to get it working like new. If you will be designing your own parts and if regular strong plastic (but can't withstand over 52C) are good enough then get the UM2+. If you will be printing a lot of nylon (not stronger exactly but more flexible so it's tough as hell - you can typically drive a car over it), or if you aren't designing the parts yourself, or if you really really need dissolvable support then get the UM3 but I'd start with a UM2+ to understand the amazing things you can do with it. If you want to save even more money use this as your guide: https://www.reddit.com/user/richie225/comments/rnillw/generic_fdm_printer_recommendations_2022/

Not really. Because of active leveling. Which probes the bed in a one or two dozen places. I know - it sucks. But you can probably get the print time down by 2X by using a larger nozzle, thicker layer height, variable infill, reducing support amounts, redesigning the part, etc.

As an example, is it a bug that when I use the scroll wheel on this page I can only scroll down until I see the bottom of the page? I can't scroll down enough so that I am *below* the bottom of the page. Is that a bug also? Because pretty much every web page on the internet is like that. I'm not saying there isn't a bug - just that I don't see the problem.

I still don't understand. You can zoom in. You can zoom out enough to see everything. No problem. What's the problem? I still don't understand. You mentioned something about a bug earlier? What is the bug in your opinion? Or is there a feature request? Why do you want to zoom out more than enough to see everything? I just don't get it. Sorry!

Completely agree. I turned it off for a month. Much better with it on. It's worth it. Everytime I changed printcores (even though I was swapping between two print cores) I had to relevel.

Okay I'm seeing that some types of PEI don't melt until over 300C.

I'm pretty sure active leveling will ruin the PEI the first time it runs. The nozzles will be around 200C and will just melt it. You need to get a metal sheet. Ask questions about ultituner in the linked thread. I believe the way it works is explained. The author is one of the moderators on this forum. You can ask him questions over there.

How thick is this sheet? The active leveling sensor is a large flat piece of metal about 10mm above the tip of the nozzle and capacitively connects to the large metal print bed about 5mm below the surface of the glass. That's about 15mm (very rough - I didn't even get out of my chair to measure with my eyes let alone a ruler). I don't think adding a few more mm will make a noticable difference. Even 10mm more. What is the melting point? Active leveling heats the nozzle and will probably melt the PEI. This is so that solid filament on the tip of the nozzle doesn't mess up the measurement. Does UM use PEI on S7? I don't think so - I think it's some kind of textured metal. You should instead buy that. I've heard of people buying something for their S5. I forget what it is but it bends and you can pop the part off after printing. They sell this custom sized. You could just turn off active leveling There is a procedure here: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer I don't recommend this path for parts that use more than about 200mmX200mm of the print bed.

S5 is fantastic with GF and CF filaments. You need a ruby nozzle such as the "CC 0.6" print core. Regular nozzles will wear down in just a few hours of printing. Avoid ABS if at all possible. The fumes are nasty and the parts tend to have "grain". In other words they tend to be quite weak. I really like xstrand GF30 with glass fibers (fiberglass). Seems better than carbon to me. There are many good CF filaments as well. Realize that the carbon is chopped up into tiny pieces so the strength and stiffness increases are small. But definitely real. GF30 is I think 30% glass fibers. I've been very happy with their PA6 GF30 (pa6 is nylon) but xstrand also has PC (polycaronate) and PP with GF30. Nylon needs to be extremely dry and I recommend spending 8 hours drying the filament first. Even brand new filament tends to be too wet to print. Unspool enough for your print and put on the print bed with the spool on top and a towel on top of that. Heat to around 70C for around 8 hours just before you print. After 8 hours of printing on the back of the printer it's wet again. Store with a few cups of desiccant and recharge the desiccant every month. In other words nylon is tricky but once you get it down it's a great marerial. I usually print Nylon out of a zip lock with desiccant in the zip lock (for prints longer than an hour). PP is really hard to get to stick to the bed. Get the special printing kit from ultimaker that includes adhesion sheets. These really suck as they tend to rip when you remove parts. They really suck. But are necessary for PP or alternatively get Magigoo for PP. PC isn't exactly easy either. There is no easy filament that will get you good results with GF or CF filametns. Another trick is to buy carbon fiber rods and pause your print when there are places to insert the rods, usually towards outside edges of the part. Pay attention to working temperatures as many of the nicest plastics to work with will melt at temps below 100C. Nylon gets pretty soft at 100C but will not melt so it may be fine even at 100C if it has fibers. PLA gets soft at 52C. nGen, cpe, petg typically about 10 or 20C hotter than that. ABS right at 99C. Nylon gets very rubbery above 110C. It really takes 100 prints to get good at a new material and it can be a painful process. Especially if you don't ask lots of questions or ignore advice. Nylon is a very rewarding material once you get good at it. Both regular and filled.

I perfectly understood that. But since you can see everything, why do you want to zoom out farther? What is the problem you want fixed. I mean I'm being silly but if you want to zoom out enough to see your room, that's not going to happen. Your room is not modeled in cura. You mentioned earlier something about not being able to rotate a part but I don't see how that can be a problem if you can see everything.

I was implying information in the other direction - that he should inform UltiMaker support even if just to give UltiMaker a feeling for how many people have this issue. If they get 1000 support tickets (or 4) that gives UltiMaker a sense if this needs some serious attention.

There is definitely a threat from your LAN. You better believe it. Protecting the company/business/home/institution network from bad actors entering it is worth doing but pretty much impossible. Any employee with a compromised cell phone using the wifi has just brought a threat into the LAN. Any employee who clicks on a phishing link in an email can get their work computer infected. Basically the enemy is probably already inside the LAN. But with modern security that doesn't mean they can necessarily get into your databases or break into every computer on the network. Putting too much effort into "protecting the LAN" is no longer advisable and instead each printer (2d or 3d) needs to have its own security. Each thermostat. Each network enabled toaster. Each database. The effort should be based on how much havoc can be caused by bad actors. So toasters are probably less critical than a customer database. Or a printer printing company secrets. It's sad but true that protecting the LAN is mostly futile. Or you may be in a company where there are networks with no wifi (wired only) and super heavy security (e.g. body searches of uSD cards, flash drives, any computing device including a phone not allowed). But barring that, IT has to assume the "enemy is already in our LAN". Restricting a LAN from accessing the internet is really no longer advisable but I know some companies still do that.

Well you should really look into getting your power supply fixed but yes you can downgrade. Unfortunately, 8.1.1 is one of those rare versions that can't be downgraded easily. You have to do the "firmware recovery" procedure. I'm not sure which version you want to go to but my guess is the latest 7.X. Anyway if you get to any 7.X version you can then upgrade up to where you want to be if necessary. I think I'm still on 5.X on my S5. Here's the procedure. You are lucky that (for now) the published recovery version is indeed 7.X. This will probably change within a month or two. For older versions contact suport. Here's the procedure: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1877434822572 It looks like you are in the Netherlands? And your profile says you have an S3. Which is good - the S3 is easier I think to do the firmware recovery. You really should contact your reseller or I'd try contacting UM support directly (since you are in The Netherlands) to ask them about power issues and to let them have a sense for how many people are having power issues when they upgrade to 8.X (maybe they need to change the limits - I really don't know). Meanwhile order online or locate a uSD card. You can get them from Amazon - you want ideally 4GB to 32GB (some people have had trouble with larger uSD cards but 4-32GB should be fine). Maybe you have one in a cell phone or camera already?