gr5

gcode is very easy to edit. Just read it with your eyes and you can figure it out. Z is the up and down direction - that's mostly the only thing you need to know.

It's a bad model. Did you create the model? You can repair it with netfabb on the web for free (google it) or if it's your model you can fix it yourself. You can see problem areas with "xray view" in cura (15.4 or older). The problem areas will show up as red. or you might just want to try clicking some of the "fix horrible" checkboxes. There are 11 combinations so you might want to set layer height to .4mm while testing which is the correct combination but probably only "A" or "B" is enough for you.

For glass it's important that you use heat - at least 50C. 60C is better. 70C is too hot.

You only need alcohol for blue tape. For glass you can use normal glass cleaner. You will need to move the glass closer to the print head if you remove the tape. I really like to use some glue - spread it around with some water and a tissue or paint brush. The glue really helps a lot. glue stick that children use, or elmer's wood glue, or hair spray (all three contain PVA glue).

Are you sure it's the glass? and not something else? Is the glass flat if you remove it from the printer? It's very very rare for glass to be warped - especially since it's so easy to warp it by having a screw stick up too much. I had to counter sink my 3 leveling screw head holes.

Which printer do you have? um2? um2go? umext? The answer matters in some more advice. The problem is your part didn't stick well. It looks like your bottom layer isn't squished enough so level your bed slightly closer to the nozzle - no need to re-run the leveling procedure. Just loosen all 3 screws about 1/2 turn. You want that first layer squished more. The second thing is you need more brim - turn on brim feature and then make sure you have at least 5 brim passes. You might not think this matters but it makes a huge difference. Also consider printing the first layer a little hotter - maybe 230C - but only the bottom layer. The key is getting that bottom layer to flow into the cracks. Also clean your blue tape by putting some isopropyl alcohol on a tissue and wiping the blue tape once. it doesn't take much. This removes the waxy non-stick coating from teh blue tape. AFter you do those things you will next want to know how the hell to remove the part from the tape, lol. I await that post.

Most likely the 4 screws were too tight! Contact here: support.ultimaker.com and they can send you new parts for free.

Ken holds a printed scan of Joris' daughter at fab11 in Boston.

At fab11 in Boston this week - me with a big screw printed in 6 hours and the famous Joris in the background with his "elephant printer" aka "infinite Z hack". That's my green UMO that he turned inside-out. :(

Which issue? There are a few issues mentioned in this thread - for example "part not sticking to bed". The closed top issue is pretty easy to fix but there are many causes. There's the pillowing issue discussed nicely here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide You might not have enough infill (I recommend 20% if you are having trouble filling in the top) and you want at least .6mm thick top surface setting in Cura and layers thinner than .1mm are also more problematic but I'm guessing your issue is underextrusion and you just need to increase flow to 110%. Please post a photo. This is a pretty easy problem to fix so it's not that interesting. I'm more interested in the strange issues people have. Anyway please post a picture.

PLA, ABS or Nylon are all good choices for this. PLA is the easiest to print and will look the best. I recommend 2 colors to print a "S" on the salt for example. Print the letter first .2mm thick as one part/print. Then change filaments and print the other print on top with the bottom layer .3mm thick. Dont' worry about subtracting the letter from the cap:

@valcrow - well if what you say is true (I trust you!) then I would guess the next most likely thing to cause the ringing would be vibrations in the bed or at least the bed relative to the head. Well I guess we know that 100% - somewhere between the part (which is sitting on the bed) and the head there is ringing - maybe most of it is in the bed. But I would expect more ringing on the sides and less on the front and back.

How do you know if the ringing is mostly caused by the shafts or in the rubber belts? Well I guess we could think about the frequency. I'm going to estimate the frequency within about a factor of 10. Looking at the companion cube I'm going to say the rings are 1mm apart and guess the head was moving at 50mm/sec (much faster and it would have been still accelerating and they should be noticably closer together nearer the edge when head is moving slower). So that's 50 rings per second (50mm/sec divided by 1mm). That's a very low frequency - I doubt those steel shafts wobble that slow - much morel likely the belt I think. And if you double the tension on the belt the frequency should double (lines twice as close together). Now this is rough so it could be 10Hz up to maybe 200hz. Those are mostly audible frequencies (low pitch) and again the belt is about right for that.

with "move material" it's easy to go much faster than the printer can normally print. I don't get grinding material though - your tension is probably too loose. The forces in there are impressively high - about 10 pounds or 5kg force is being pushed on that filament before the feeder skips backwards (which you want to happen during move material versus grinding). Here are some photos giving you an indication of the desired tension - the filament on the left had not enough tension. The one on the right might be a little too much.

0805? Is that the right dimension? Or is it an 0603? I don't know. That part appears to be fine. I hope you know how to solder smt parts.

@nallath - please check out the post 2 posts above with the photos - something strange.

You may have to disable support to get the skirt to work - not sure.

Under "platform adhesion type" choose "none" which is the equivalent of "skirt". Then click the ".." button next to that to contorl skirt settings.

It's temporary. This is a total rewrite of Cura and isn't quite done - lots of other (less used) features. Several custom printers have already been created and checked into the source tree but there hasn't been a build yet with those printers in it (although you can download them). The way to customize to a given is much better now and has more features. So you might want to stick with the older version of Cura for a few more months and keep checking back. Or you could figure out how the customization works - it's talked about here on the forums.

You know that you can see instant results to your settings of this kind of thing by looking at layer view, right?

I think you mean brim - it's on the first page under "support". Brim touches the model. Skirt doesn't. A "skirt" is just something where it goes around the model once to test out the extruder to get things flowing and you can also use it to check and adjust your leveling at this time before it starts your proper parts. But the skirt doesn't touch the model. The Brim does.

You can ignore the "too tall" error. That's unrelated. If the object was knocked over your best fix is to have it stick better. My objects stick so well I often have to remove the glass and chill it and then spend 5 minutes getting the damn part off without breaking the glass. The primary tricks to getting it to stick well: heat, glue, brim, squish. Using any 1 of these tricks will make a big difference, use all 4 tricks all the time and you never have part coming off the bed, you can pick up the whole machine by that vase and swing the machine around you. standard "make it stick" notes: ======= lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a c

It's probably not the sensor itself but in the wiring. It should be about 108 ohms at room temperature. Ususally you just have to tighten down a screw or resolder that terminal block (just reflow the solder). The part is a PT100 which is a standard part and you can order one from anywhere. All PT100s have the exact same temperature/resistance curve so any brand is fine - they come in all kinds of smt sizes. Or you can also just get a whole new bed from Ultimaker support.

The STL format doesn't support arcs - that's the most common standard that all the slicers accept. I don't know any slicers that support arcs either. marlin I think does support arcs maybe? I think you can enable it in a compiler setting maybe? Maybe not. I'm sure some of the newer "cell phone cpu" based printer controllers like beagle bone and tinyG have the cpu power to support arcs. How about 1000 sides? Is that enough? At some point the printer is adding more error than the error of converting a circle to edges. A million polygon part to be printed is not unusual.

It would be helpful if you could publish the exact line of gcode that causes the problem *and* the 2 moves before that (to establish the incoming junction speed and such).