gr5

That's very strange that Ultimaker would recommend 265C but I happen to know the printers only go to 260C as shipped. The reason for this is that the white teflon connector degrades pretty quickly at 250C and faster at 260C (quickly doesn't mean a few minutes but a few weeks). I think you can print ABS just find at cooler temperatures but if it *really* needs 265C you need to do 2 very very easy things but maybe they violate your rules. One is to change the firmware to one that allows you to go hotter - I have one that will allow up to 300C I can post somewhere for you. The second thing is you should replace the teflon isolator with the IPM from 3dsolex.com but ONLY if you won't be printing any PLA. PLA sticks to the IPM isolator so once you install it you can't print PLA. The nice thing about installing the IPM is you don't have to remove temp sensor or heater from the block (that's a step that is often difficult) and so swapping is pretty easy. Especially if you've taken your head apart a few times (it seems like most people are forced to take their head apart within a month or two after buying it for one reason or another but I don't have any statistics to back that).

So are you all set? Earlier I gave you a few theories to test out - did you test them? Also I suggested you call Ultimaker - did you? Please let us know what eventually fixed your problem or if you still have the problem and which theories you have ruled out and why. What exactly is the mm^3/sec that you are printing at? (you can see this in cura if you hover over the print speed). the mm^3/sec varies depending on shell width, nozzle width, layer height and print speed.

So what was it?

You started this thread! So I guess that means you can hijack it! What controller is that? TinyG? Beaglebone?

An interesting post about problems with olsson block due to temperature and how he figured it out (block was touching fan shroud). And the solution was interesting also: http://eleccelerator.com/olsson-block-low-temperature-troubleshooting/

Can you show it next to a "normal" sized one?

Contact support.ultimaker.com. Simon will probably help you out - he knows much more about this kind of thing than I do.

Just go to software.ultimaker.com. Everything is there - new and old versions.

I have 3 theories: 1) Filament tangle. Whenever I get these lines it was because of a filament tangle but if always happens at the same height it's not that. 2) nozzle cools suddenly due to fan - by default I believe the fan comes on gradually and at 5mm it is at it's strongest (100%). This probably isn't the problem either as the difference between 90% and 100% fan is too small to make a difference. 3) Z stage - something wrong with the Z stage - usually either the thick 8mm rods, or their bearings, or the z screw or the z nut. But look around - the filament spool holder on the back of the machine can stick through the machine and get caught up on the Z stage. This is obviously the quickest/easiest thing to check first. Ultimaker will send you new z stage parts (one at a time) if you keep bugging them long enough about this.

What temperature were you printing at? I found that I get occasional brown or black spots but not too many - the part is 99.9% white. I haven't tried t-glase but taulman bridge is nice in that I can print it at a cooler temperature than other nylons such that I get less boiling of water going on and still get good layer bonding. "bridge" supposedly warps less also.

You may have blown up the fan. That 3rd fan is a 5v fan. I have several and I was planning on selling a quieter version than standard in my store. I've been testing it and it seems to work fine. History: my UM2 was one of the early printers - probably around the 300th printer. It had a very very quiet fan - I even did a video to show people how quiet. Later when I got my UM2go I was annoyed at how loud the fan is. It turns out it is a different part number. Anyway I would like to sell these in my store - if you are in USA then I can send you one for say $5 plus $3 shipping since you will be a beta tester. Complete with connector crimped on. If interested contact me at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com Oh and the 5v fans I have I accidentally put about 10V into it and it died within about 0.5 seconds. I have about 5 of them. but be aware that this is not the standard fan - this is the model of fan that came with the early UM2's before they switched. It is about 1/10 as much wind but it seems to be plenty of cooling power as I've printed 30 hour prints with tens of thousands of retractions just fine on my UM2 (still testing on the um2go).

Did you try completely erasing the SD card and putting a very small gcode file on there just as a test? There is a way to format the SD card - from your computer probably.

short answer: 10mm/sec; .2mm layer; 240C; use oil! More details in these links: https://ultimaker.com/nl/community/view/16058-ninja-flex-cheddar-cheese-texture#reply-107856 https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/4904-flexible-filaments-comparison?page=11#reply-68759

That's where the outer shell starts and ends. The shell starts on one side of the "line that goes upwards" and it prints a loop and then returns just on the other side of the "line that goes upwards". I'm not sure how to fix this - different versions of Cura have different issues with this "z-seam" and different slicers are able to improve this somewhat. I really don't know the answer.

So which way gives you the bumps? checked or unchecked?

I've seen that thread before. Evidently the pulleys are perfect but the hole drilled through them is not. This makes it kind of obvious if the pulley isn't centered as you mainly just look at the hole.

Your issue would make total sense if one or more Y axis pulleys aren't centered. Please measure the distance between good or bad areas and see if it's the same as the circumference (from outer surface of the belt's point of view). This would make sense because the the Y movement would be non-linear and when commanding it to move 1mm it would actually move slightly more than that or less than that depending on the orientation of the pulley. When it moves too far you get underextrusion. Too short you get overextrusion. It could be any of the 6 Y pulleys including the motor one and the other one on the short belt so don't just look at 4 pulleys. Also if you tell the printer to draw a single diagonal line I would expect it to be crooked back and forth as it passes through these areas of more and less extrusion. Like a sine wave but subtle.

Could you post the stl file somewhere? Maybe dropbox? And provide a link?

Well go ahead and ignore us - we'll be fine. If Carl or I see something I think you'd be interested in then we'll let you know about it. The only thread I think would interest you right now would be the dual print head thread which is very active and I assume you have seen. My favorite thread (which is still active across many years) is "post your latest print" as that one inspires me all the time. The stuff in that thread just blows me away. And sometimes I learn a new trick from that thread.

Your symptoms are what I would expect if one of the ribbon cables was backwards. Unfortunately I don't know where the red stripe is supposed to go. And how do you know which cable is which? I have a UMO and a UM2 but the UMO+ has a mixture of equipment from those 2 machines so I'm not sure how the ribbon cable is supposed to go. also it looks like those 2 cables each have a backwards crimped ribbon - which shouldn't matter as long as you are consistent with the red stripe - but still - strange. Where in the manual (I have it open) does it say which ribbon connector goes where?

You know your picture is kind of small - can you post a full size version somewhere else such as dropbox or google+ or something? It looks like maybe it's too thin on the right side? Or maybe my imagination. If so then you can adjust the leveling by turning the screws. I wouldn't do the leveling procedure necessarily - just turn the screws in the right direction. It looks like possible the head is too close to the bed on the upper right area? You would know better than me - it would look too think. Getting the bottom layer perfect is difficult and tricky. Most parts (e.g. robot) don't care but in your case you care. so you really need to get leveling perfect and the leveling procedure only gets you so far.

It looks like it completely stopped printing for a minute, is that true? For about 20 traces? It must have been a clog that sorted itself out. That's all I can think of that would mess up that many traces in a row! Now if it were just 2 traces I would say you are too close to the glass and pressure built up until finally the feeder couldn't take it anymore and skipped back. But that shouldn't affect that much unless maybe you are doing very very thin layer on the bottom? Default is .3mm bottom layer - is that what you are doing? That bottom layer looks pretty good otherwise - nicely squished into the glass (good leveling). No on to other topics - you didn't use a brim. That's probably a big mistake for this object. I recommend you print on 60C glass for this and use brim and also use a dilute glue solution. Those three things will help your case from peeling up off the bed on the corners. If you have no peeling up then ignore my advice. Dilute glue: well glue stick is fine (or hair spary or wood glue) but use very little and add a tablespoon of water on the glass and mix it around with a paint brush or tooth brush or tissue. You want it very wet like a puddle and then as it heats up it should dry to an invisible layer.

BUILDING MARLIN thermistor tables: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h'>https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h'>https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h'>https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h tinkergnome (UM2 marlin): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V15.03-RC1 Ultimaker2 marlin source: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin First get the source code files here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Then edit Configuration.h – this is by far the hardest step and it's not bad. I recommend you go here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ or https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ and use that website only to get the Configuration.h file. Then run winmerge or some other diff program to compare the latest ErikZalm version of Configuration.h to the one from robotfuzz which is usually a few months behind. Edit the ErikZalm version to match the robotfuzz generated version. Make any other edits as necessary. It sound complicated but it is extremely clear and well commented. Sometimes with paragraphs of explanation. configuration.h file detailed explanation: http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/ Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

Okay - I guess you guys are right. I just checked and there were 34 topics with new posts to topics in the last 24 hours here and on the old forum we averaged 165 posts per day over a 2 year period. But those 34 topics each have more than one post. So, yeah, we are getting 50% to 75% as many posts according to Anders below (yes, I edited this post after he posted!, lol). It still seems like a ton of posts to me though, lol. The old forum is still alive by the way but it's read only: http://oldforum.ultimaker.com/ But the old forum has all these amazing moderator/admin reporting tools so it's easy for me to count posts per year. New users per year and so on. As far as "search" is concerned any programmer who thinks they can do better than google is a fool. They have a big team. Microsoft wasn't able to do as well. Neither was google, altavista, yahoo, or anyone else. So the forum should just use google to do the searches. Anyway I alway s use google and add "site:ultimaker.com" to the search so it limits results from the forum.

Every gcode file that you create with Cura has the settings used at the end (encoded). So NEVER DELETE these! You can determine the settings several ways. The first step is to clear your platform so there is nothing to slice then do "load profile from gcode..." and load in the gcode file you want to know the settings for. Then you can either look through the settings (as all cura settings get updated at that moment except for possibly "machine"). Or you can then do "save profile" and it saves to a text file so you can do a comparison with a "diff" tool such as winmerge.