gr5

I also think printing flat and then heating later is the best (most beautiful) option. Be aware that PLA will melt with "tea temperature" water and if you leave those glasses in an auto with windows closed on a hot day they will be ruined. However if you print with ABS they will be fine. But with ABS hot water won't be enough - you'll need a heat gun.

I got online today to see 6 "likes" from AaronAlai, lol. He's really back! I remember a moderator (IRobertI) had to increase the amount of likes that someone can make in 24 hours just for Aaron.

I've never had to resort to this so I'm not sure but yes that makes sense. Most people who print with ABS print with zero fans always. If you are printing a very large part (over a minute per layer) then the fans aren't really needed except maybe for bridging (kisslicer I think has a fan-for-bridging-and-overhangs-only setting probably meant for ABS).

In general both printers can print at the exact same speed if you use the exact same acceleration and jerk settings and for the most part the acceleration and jerk settings can be set identically on both machines. I think only the retraction speed can be significantly faster on the UM2. Cura doesn't ask what the acceleration and jerk settings are so it must assume some values. These values only started getting used in the print time estimates recently. It made a huge improvement on time estimates. I suspect the main difference is because it probably uses these for UM2 but not for UM time estimates. I wish there was some advanced setting where you could tell cura what the acceleration and jerk settings are. The older Cura assumed infinite acceleration and so the estimates would be much too short.

UM2 FEEDER DESIGNS - I'm trying to summarize the designs here. I think they are all great designs. Let me know if I left an important one out. Ian's design is secret for now. Geek's design for UM2 feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2 Robert's design is here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=45758 Post #402. Read Robert's post #409 below that one for more details on assembly and such. Ultimaker's design is in these two posts Post #279: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330 post #268 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162 I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet. Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder: https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar

Also I've used this wonderful utility do produce lithopanes: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66115 It produces STL file which is nice because I can then edit the STL with other editors. Unfortunately I felt I had to reduce the polygons a bit using meshlab but it's a nice utility. How to reduce polygons: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html

There is a firmware lock that won't let the extruder move until the head is above a certain temp (I think 170C maybe). Could this be the problem? You can override the interlock with an gcode command.

Maybe but this looks much worse - this bare piece of metal I think should be shoved back into the connector. I arrowed what looks like the problem to me. Certainly the green wire connects the two side fan connectors so you are close:

Yes. Read this first post here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

When you first start a print it does the HOME procedure. I think also if you choose "lower bed" it probably also does it the first time. Also when you level it first does the HOME procedure. If the home procedure is very noisy and hits the bottom hard, then there is something wrong with the Z limit switch in the picture above or something wrong with the wiring. However instead you might have something loose in your bed. See the video here (post #39) http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5218-bed-leveling-trouble-um2/?p=49660 If you have the same problem as in video then this explains your homing/leveling issues. Read the posts after post #39 for solutions.

Your leveling is slightly off then. I recommend the bottom layer is .3mm to reduce the sensitivity to levelling. Anyway you want to level slightly higher than you have been. This is very quick as your 3 screws you don't need to touch most likely. So do the procedure, set to very roughly 1mm in first portion then continue continue until time to insert paper in the back - make it so the paper feels a little tightening but not much - less tightening on the paper than you tried before. Or maybe you used paper too thin - it should be normal copy paper. Then skip right through the front two screw leveling steps. Again - you can do all of this without touching any of the 3 screws!

@Schafe Obviously you can raise the temp or slow down the printer but... If it were me the main things I would try: 1) put the filament on the floor. It's so damn easy to do. Build a filament holder out of knex or wood or something. 2) The next more difficult thing to do is to take apart the print head and drill out the white teflon "isolator" to 3mm. I mean remove it and slide some curved pla through and if it gets stuck then drill it out. To take the head apart first remove the 4 screws for the fans and let them hang, then remove the 4 thumb screws completely and put aside, then remove the 2 screws holding the rear fan on (careful there is a spring. Now you can remove the isolator and test it. If it is fine then: 3) Consider cleaning that nozzle. You have to probably heat it to 180C to unscrew that nut with the holes through it - slide a thin screwdriver through opposite holes and rotate it until the nozzle is loose. Then cut heat power and unscrew that very long screw with the tiny allen at the top - try not to strip the allen but not a disaster if you do. You need to remove (or at loosen) that before the temp probe and heater element slide out. Now take that nozzle and burn it in some flame - try to get the temp that burns away any PLA without melting the nozzle. You should see flame and fire and blackening of PLA for maybe 10 seconds, then remove from heat for 10 seconds and repeat until only ashes are left. Then soak in acetone (not 10% acetone, much stronger) for an hour. Then put it all back together.

Not good. This should work even when not connected to the rest of the UM. Try removing all cables to the PCB 1.5.7 and test again. Are you good with electronics? Do you have a multimeter? If not then I would put on reading glasses and check every solder joint looking for possible shorts and remelting that solder. If you know electronics you can look for a short in the 5V signal somewhere in this schematic: ULTIMAKER1 The circuit diagram, and board layout are here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB There is a zip file at the top. It contains the "brd" file which is the layout. Also the "sch" file which is the schematic. Both files can be opened by eagle software which is free: http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/ To open a ticket and get a new PCB shipped to you go here: support.ultimaker.com

Actually you don't have to take anything apart! On page 34 I saw this - tighten those 4 screws shown with the blue arrow. Hopefully you aren't missing any: And by the way - the screw that the screwdriver is connected to is the one that you need to remove to slide that rear cover up. There is a similar one on the left side I think.

Get this assembly manual for UM2 here and click "raw" to download it. Save. Then open and go to page 27 where it shows the part pretty much guaranteed is a problem for you. That part needs 4 screws - I bet there is only one left holding it together. The "trapezoidal nut": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

I think you should take the Z stage apart and see what is loose - probably some screw or nut needs tightening - probably something simple. Take a picture for us when you do.

Two things: 1) I don't have nearly as much movement. I did the same test with tape (which will not stick to that left rod as it is oily - maybe you should add a drop of oily to the left and right rods) sticking on the back wall and a print sitting on the "shelf". I have maybe 1/4 as much movement and the z screw moves together with the shelf such that the 2 are connected perfectly. In other words all the movement (what little there is) is from the Z screw moving up and down. 2) wait so left side was about 1mm off glass, center 0mm off glass, right side 1mm off glass. Was this repeatable? If so either your glass is curved or your gantry rods are curved, right? Or is this *not* repeatable? I'm guessing it is not repeatable.

Oh and next time you post a picture please put it on this forum so that it lasts for years. Click "gallery" at the top left of this page and then click the blue Upload button. After uploading start a new post and click "my media" next to smile icon.

I don't think it's a bed releveling thing as the bottom layers look okay. 1) Did the part slip? Did it come off the bed during printing? 2) UM Original or UM2 printer? 3) Well it looks maybe too hot. On Um2 default settings aren't ideal - default bed is 75C. Lower that to 60C. Slow the print down a bit - whatever you were printing at, try 2/3 speed. 4) Could the printer have slipped or lost steps? It looks like each layer lines up properly with the layer below but maybe not? 5) Make sure the side fans are working (or single side fan on UM1). If fans aren't on then that could explain everything. A quick way to test the fans on UM2 is to click PRINT, then choose anything, then go immediately to TUNE menu (this will keep the print from starting). Then go to the fans setting and crank them to 100%. If they don't start spinning don't panic - it's easy to fix - post your results. First step for fixing the fans is to slide up that plastic sleeving at the top of the print head and expose the fan wiring underneath is 90% of the time that's where it fails.

I posted details here but this is only one way to do it. When I do it again I will do it differently: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case

There's not much to tear down - you just create a new domain and have it point to the same website.

That's very strange. I don't think there are any wifi chips on the current PCB or someone would have mentioned it by now. I know that some non-ultimaker people are very serious about changing out the arduino to a cell phone computer which of course can easily do wifi (and hi resolution graphics and more). And when that project is stable enough I think it will be integrated into the UM2 (or UM3). Anyway don't count on this within a year. Printing through USB works but is not reliable and is not officially supported. Some people use octoprint which is free. But again, not officially supported. For many machines USB printing works fine but for others it barely works at all. SD printing is wonderful - I've done 30 hour prints and I don't have to worry about my windows computer shutting down for some obscure adobe update in the middle of my print. So I guess the basic answer is if you really need wifi printing you should get something else.

These problems are usually caused by shipping. Shipping your entire printer back to UM and then getting a new one will probably have some different problem. Unless you can drive to UM headquarters and pick it up yourself I recommend you spend the 3 minutes it takes to bend the metal by 2mm with pliers.

You (probably both of you) definitely have a problem with the Z homing. I would start by bending that switch back. It should click when you push on it. You might want to check the cable to make sure it is plugged into the PCB at the other end and maybe also check it with a volt meter. Personally if I didn't see anything wrong and the voltmeter shows it change from infinite ohms to zero ohms when you click it then I would load up pronterface (it's free) and connect your UM2 to a computer with USB cable: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ I think pronterface will tell you if a limit switch is tripping properly. If it's not working this needs to be fixed or you will have to level every day! Photo of my z limit switch:

Please post pictures on the forum and not on other hosting services because a year from now your picture and link probalby won't work. To post here click on "gallery" on the top left of this page, then click "upload" button. Then post a new post (or edit your old post) and click "my media" next to smile icon.