gr5

A quick google search shows that printedsolid.com reselles colorfabb in usa but they don't seem to have that color. I'm done for now but try googling colorfabb - maybe they have more resellers in the US.

I think it's Colorfabb for two reasons: The filament spools are identical (were identical they switched to clear ones) and they are in the Netherlands. If you look at the filament spools on the websites of all the sellers of filament they are almost all different - no two places seem to use the same design.

I agree with Ian - probably just off by a tiny bit in the levelling. Also don't put the glue on super thick - a very thin layer is fine. I'm usually lazy and just put it on directly but I'm going to print a 20 hour print or something I wet a napkin and spread the glue stick glue around very thin. There's nothing special about 50C heated bed. Any temp from around 40C to 70C and it will stick equally well. However for large prints, more than 100mm across, 70C will help keep it from warping and lifting at the corners. But anything hotter than 70C (e.g. 75C is too hot) and the plastic doesn't cool fast enough and you get what *looks* like warping in the bottom 5mm (but is actually caused by the filament not being solid and the rubber-bandiness of PLA filament when still liquid).

Ian did you go to the mini makerfaire in hanover germany last December? I would think that would be a good place to meet and Sander might even join you there. You should have gone to the big one in Eindhoven last weekend. Sander was probably there.

I printed nylon PA6 on the UM2 and it worked fine. I used blue tape on glass. My notes say I printed at 260C and the bed was at 50C. I figure a warm bed will let the nylon flow into the cracks of the blue tape better. I probably cleaned the blue tape with alcohol as I almost always do but that isn't mentioned in my notes. I had to relevel with the blue tape of course. One of the objects was a christmas ornament so it was kind of a large sphere compared to the tiny point of the sphere at the bottom and I was nervous about it getting knocked over but it was fine.

I'd rather a hug than a kiss, but thanks. I don't really understand any of those fix horrible settings. Daid (cura author) has explained them several times but he thinks of polygons in a given slice yet we think of 3d objects. Anyway, that bracelet has an outer and an inner wall which is normally good for 3d printing but your requested shell thickness is .4mm yet the wall was .39mm in places and .41mm in places and it makes for a mess when printing it out - the .39mm walls were being ignored as too narrow for a .4mm nozzle. So we tell Cura that it is a solid part and that double wall is a fluke and ignore the inner wall, The "combine everything" helps us make it into one solid part - a bracelet without a place to put your hand through. Then we tell cura not to print: top, bottom, infill. That way it is now back to a hollow bracelet. As far as why you need to check 3 of the 4 checkboxes in fix horrible - I really don't know. I just started trying all 11 combinations at random until it worked (One might think there are 15 combinations but Daid told me that checking both "A" and "B" does the same thing as checking only one of them (I forget which one)).

If you really must fix the STL then this procedure might work (although it might leave you with holes in the print). I suspect it will work for you although you might need to drastically increase the light source: removing internal nodes/faces http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html But really - just check the 4 "fix horrible" settings (except for "B") as that will only take a few seconds versus an hour installing and playing with meshlab.

Well I hate it when people make me repeat myself:

Very nice. I see your UM2 is printing in the background. And the filament is on the floor! Nice! That's the secret for a happy UM2!

The wiki is editable by anyone (you just need to register) and Dimensioneer knows this so he edited it himself a while back.

Oh - and if you change color or manufacturer of PLA or change your printing temp or speed or fan, then all these adjustments change a tiny bit. Again. Or if you change to ABS.

I strongly recommend you don't mess with steps/mm. This thing is calibrated to be spot on and if you mess with that then the software endstops will be messed up. For example if you think it is printing 3% small due to PLA shrinkage and you increase steps/mm by 3% then if you ever print something 225 or 235mm wide it will hit the clips or the wall and your part will get messed up. There are many factors that change the size of the part to not be what you expected. PLA shrinkage is one of the smallest effects. There are many others. For example if the bed is too hot the lower 3mm or so will kind of shrink in. due to a stretching affect that has nothing to do with cooling/density and more to do with elasticity (think rubber band) of a strand of hot pla. This same problem exists for holes in parts - they tend to be too small due to 3 factors. The 3% shrinking of PLA, the stretchy effect (the strongest effect) and the fact that CAD converts a circle into a series of lines (like a hexagon) but all cad programs *inscribe* the polygon so that it is smaller than a circle (never larger). This is fixed by doing say 40 sides instead of say 10 sides but the bigger issue is the stretchy effect anyway. No, the best solution, and what most people do, is you print parts twice. The first time you print it as planned. Then you measure all the critical tolerances and adjust by the error back in cad so if a cube is .1mm too narrow on the length then make it .1mm longer. If a hole diameter is .7mm too small then enlarge the whole by .7mm. After a while though you get really good at guessing the errors on the first try. This is nothing compared to CAD for "real" plastic parts made with injection molds where you have to also muck around with angles (after they pop out of the mold all angles change!).

lol. That's me. A moderator. I looked at it a little closer and didn't notice anything unusual. Anyway - be aware that if there are only 1 or 2 strings per part, and if you are printing multiple parts then this is a completely different issue. It's code that not many people use so it doesn't get quite as much attention - it's the between-print retraction stuff. Someone should fix this with a plugin or something.

Well you can lie and say that the nozzle is .3mm and Cura will act just like it is a .3mm nozzle and underextrude appropriately and put the lines closer together and such. It might, kinda work. I don't recommend it.

The black feeder on the back of your machine is made of ABS plastic. If you look at the entrance hole carefully you will see it is getting ground up (UM has some fixes for this planned). This means tiny bits of black ABS is flowing up through your bowden along with the filament and gets embedded into your prints, or worse, gets stuck in the nozzle as ABS flows better at 250C - not so good at 210C. If it is stuck in the nozzle for hours, the cooking converts the ABS into some other chemical that is like solid glue. Conisder keeping your filament on the floor to reduce this abrasion until UM comes out with a new feeder design:

Everything JB says is great except the 105% flow rate. On a UM Original that's good advice but on the UM2 that is more likely to cause "skips". If the pressure gets too high in the nozzle the feeder current is low enough that it is designed to skip backwards a bit. The problem is you then get zero extrusion for maybe 20mm of travel which leaves an ugly spot. Of course 5% of .3mm is only .15mm or about 1/8 the thickness of paper so getting leveling perfect is very important here and flow can be a way of correcting bad leveling (but only on the first layer - after first layer you definitely want flow at 100%).

You can set shell thickness to whatever you want. I've even set it to 100mm and it will fill solid with concentric fill instead of diagonal infill. So if you set shell to 1.2mm and nozzle to .4mm then it will will print .4mm walls just fine and 1.2 walls also solid. If the wall is thinner than "shell" setting it does fewer passes.

Good so far. You can't print a wall thinner than the nozzle of course. What? Can you rephrase this? This1) doesn't sound like what cura doeas 2) I'm not even sure what you are trying to say. I've printed .41mm thick walls using cura set to .4mm nozzle size. But what happens at 1.2? What? I don't understand.

Sorry - not out yet. But evidently you can pause it from the control panel. I've never tried it as when you pause the nozzle tends to ooze and make a small mess (that may or may not clean up easily).

The reason parts pop off the bed is because the expansion coefficient for glass is different for plastic so they shrink by different amounts. Don't even touch your part gently until the bed is back up to temp.

If your bed was heated during the print - try to keep the bed heated until you continue the print. If it's off right now, turn it back on - you don't want the part to pop off the bed. It's okay to leave the bed warm for many days until you figure this out. Once the part pops off the bed you probably need to start at the begining. If you want parts to look perfect, you can fill holes with bondo (auto body filler) and you can sand and then paint with automobile primer paint. After priming you can use any kind of paint you want. This will give you absolutely amazing quality and can hide holes, bumps, and other imperfections (but it can be a ton of work).

Okay. I converted your scad file to an stl. It says "moma loves fay" on it. It took a minute or two to run. When I first sliced it in cura it came out just like yours - hundreds of non-extruding moves - missing sections. A complete mess. Here's a photo: So then I tried "expert settings, fix horrible, type B" and it got MUCH better. I then set shell to .4, fill density to 0%, unchecked infill top and iinfill bottom and it looks great now - no blue lines: It now prints in 17 minutes instead of 29 minutes (at print speed 60 layer height .2). And it's well a bracelet instead of a series of unconnected walls. I think if you had used the settings I posted above it would have worked, but "type B" was the secret sauce to get it to work. added later: Note that the blue lines are non-extruding - that's just air. More than one or two blue lines is a problem for a bracelet/stretchlet.

That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely. 80mm/sec is a reasonable print speed - for low quality. 35mm/sec is better for higher quality. That last photo shows only 2 strings per part. And the strings *only* seem to be on the top layer. I think you must be printing these parts in "one at a time" mode. Which is fine. But a bit buggy in Cura - it doesn't handle the transition from one part to the next very well. I think it's probably not a problem - you just have to cut off two strings per part with a razor blade.

Very strange. Please post *all* your settings. Do "file" "save profile..." and then post the whole thing please! I'm thinking you might have chosen reprap machine and have some bad gcodes in there. It really looks like some kind of levelling issue. Or maybe your first layer height is too thick (.5mm?).

Hmm. Somewhere on these forums is how to get the UM2 to print in "rep rap" mode. There's a couple tricks - it's very simple but there something.... I forget. Sorry.