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>That will increase the price significantly for something you may only use twice before getting a heated bed. Also glass is easy to break and you might break it so getting the cheapest, simple rectangle might be best.

It's just a rectangle, lol. Those glass cutter people know rectangles well. It's pretty much their main thing. Just measure to the inside of the screw heads and then edge to edge in the other direction. Or you could remove the bed from your printer and hand that to the glass guy and say "make it like this please" if you want the screw holes and everything. That will increase the price significantly for something you may only use twice before getting a heated bed. Again, 3 inch tape works much better than the 1 inch tape UM provides. The cheap elmers wood glue stuff. I think it might be "PVA". Google it and see what other's are using and what ratio. Personally I use elmers glue stick which also works but is not as dependably spread perfectly even without using a wet tissue. As for the Z height thing - careful you don't break the glass the first time you home and smash it into the print head: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-material-add-on Print that with the exact same thickness as the glass you buy. Also consider cutting a corner off the glass bed where the head homes so the head homes in mid air. You can then extrude in home position and there is some air under the head. Of course this limits the size/shape of the maximum thing you can print.

If the part is pulling off the tape, then the above posts have great advice. But if the tape is pulling off the bed, then use wider tape. Use standard blue tape from the paint department at any hardware or paint store. Get the widest you can. I use about 3" wide tape. Illuminarti uses 6" wide tape he got through the internet. Also clean the print bed before you apply the tape with windex or soap and water or alcohol or whatever. The point is to get any finger oils off. And push that tape down hard with your fingernail or a putty knife so it sticks well. printing on glass is a great option also. Google it in these forums but the quick explanation - for about $20 you can have the local glass store cut you a piece to size (make sure it fits inside the screw holes) and get it thick - 1/4 inch. Have them ground the edges so they aren't sharp. Then clamp down with heavy duty paper clips so it can expand when it heats. You will have to lower your Z limit switch by quite a bit - maybe lengthen the slots or build a Z limit switch extender (print it) - read about these things - you pop it on and off when you pop the glass on and off. Then use wood glue mixed with water on the glass. Heating the glass to 100F (30C) and printing the first layer at 240C helps quite a bit. Another totally different thing you can do: Move your printer into a warmer room! Just for this one print. PLA shrinking isn't an issue until around the glass temp (around 60C) and a normal room is around 22C. That 40C decrease in temp shrinks the PLA around .3%. In a basement at 50F (10C) you get that much more shrinkage. Or put a light bulb heater under the bed and enclose the sides with plastic.

Step #8 curling is from personal experience. But it wasn't typical curling. It was severe curling. Typical curling is when the fresh pla is extruded into air it curls and touches the tip. That's normal. Extreme curling is when: even after pulling the filament straight, and even after 30mm of filament is pulling straight down, you extrude some more and the curling power makes it touch the nozzle again. If you ever experience this you will know right away that something is very different. Fixed in seconds with a hypodermic needle. I edited #8 slightly (added the "even with 30mm fresh pla pulling downwards").

Disposable printing plates? Print, then smash the print bed? Edible printing plates? Let the dog like the print bed off the part?

If ultimaker ships you a new board (I'm guessing you can keep the broken one) Wednesday afternoon you should get it Saturday as DHL works on weekends. At least they do in USA. What country are you in (please update your profile to include what country you re in).

The way plugins work - they are basically complete python programs that edit the gcode after Cura has finished creating the gcode. Since python is a complete and powerful language the plugins can do almost anything a program can do. So locating the "layer" comments is not difficult. The only problem is that being comments, Cura might change the syntax. The word "layer" might change for example in the future. But probably not. So someone *could* modify these plugins to take layer instead of (in addition to) height.

FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NOT GOTTEN THEIR UM2 YET!!! When you get your UM2, the glass bed may be *under* the print bed. To get to it, simply grab the Z screw in the back (with power off) and rotate it so that the bed rises up until you can slide out the glass (wrapped in protecting bubble wrap of course). Do not do this if you don't have easy access to soap and water because the Z screw is very greasy and you will need to clean your hand before you do anything else.

$2500 seems to be around the threshold. I filled out the form on dutycalculator.com for a $2400 printer with $150 shipping and $50 insurance and duty was $0. I upped to $2600 printer and got $25 duty. I went back to $2400 but added seperate $200 worth of filament and I got $13 duty. So excluding filament from an order to USA can save you duty. The fluctuation of the euro seems to be causing some people to pay duty and other's not. edit: or maybe if I had done 4 orders of $50 filament it would have been $0 duty - I'll try that now. further edit: It won't let me do that so I don't know the answer.

A little help? I've never seen this thread - must be more than a year old? Do you mean this?: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal It doesn't have enough information to order stuff - just dimensions of parts. I hope Ultimaker (some day) lets someone in the US "warehouse" several sets of spare parts for extra fast shipping. Although DHL is pretty fast - 3 days to the USA - even weekends count as days.

How handy are you Tor? Support might just send you a new board and knob - do you think you would be able to remove the 5 or so screws to take off the bottom cover, remove the board and put the new one in?

Oh! But that requires 2 fingers.

@thirty6 - I think both of your issues are the same issue. We had someone on the forum with both of your issues a few weeks ago and he fixed it by reducing friction - mainly by loosening his belts. Play (also known as backlash) is when the head doesn't quite go all the way to the commanded position (stops short). This can be caused by loose belts or by high friction. With loose belts I think it's obvious - not sure how to describe. With high friction, when the motor stops the belts are still trying to pull the head to a position but it won't move and there is still tension pushing the head in the right direction but it doesn't move. Anyway - I think Illuminarti exaggerates a bit. You should be able to push the head around with your smallest finger and the printer itself shouldn't slide around on a table. But it's not exactly a light touch. Another possible culprit (other than tight belts) is your endcaps on the rods. Try loosening one on each end of the 4 rotating rods. Loosen them one axis at a time and see if it helps with the friction before going to the next axis.

Also when the nozzle is close to the bed, the fan cools the nozzle more than normal. Cooling the nozzle can cause underextrusion. The latest cura increases the fan very gradually (by default). I think so the PID controller can adjust a little bit after each layer so that the nozzle doesn't get too cold. Once I went from 0% to 100% on a layer and got underextrusion for about 60 seconds.

I think before Daid would add this feature you have to convince him it is needed. You don't use the dual fans of the UM2 (or even single fan of UM1) so you might be a special case.

It's also possible you ground your filament to dust at the extruder. You can tell if you do the "change filament" option and that has trouble also.

I agree - probably a blockage. Here's my detailed instructions on how to unblock a UM2 the quick way. By the 3rd time you do this you will be able to do it quite quickly (post #4): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

Scroll down to the photo of the purple cube (post #2) to see some data on speed versus temp. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ Well that's a huge difference in volume (2X). You can of course print twice as fast at .1mm layers before you get underextrusion for a given temperature.

Oh - well I didn't explain what causes the problem. So far it is basically the Adhesion problem but I want to test other shapes. I tested a part with square layers. A cube turned into a parallelogram at 45 degrees. The problem occurred almost exclusively at the 2 overhang corners and the problem made it's way very slowly towards the center of the overhang edge. I watched with 10X reading glasses as it happened: When the nozzle goes around the corner it squirts the plastic where it should be and then when it turns the corner it pulls the plastic along with it a bit. With the fans the plastic cools so instantly fast that the plastic stays where it was placed. This helps with bridging also - instant cooling of the plastic. A .4mm bead of plastic hanging in air has SO MUCH more surface area versus volume than things I deal with in real life normally. So it cools SO MUCH faster. I'm not convinced this is the only thing that causes the raised edges - I want to test other shapes next.

I may have solved this issue by putting both UM2 fans at 100%. I have to do more tests but the fan made a huge huge difference. I will post pictures when I'm done with all the testing.

This is smart and I think someone said UM may have tested something similar maybe.

I blocked this post for a little while because it looked like spam but Sacshu convinced me it probably isn't spam.

I have a .65mm nozzle on my UM Original and I refuse to even try woodPLA on anything other than that nozzle.

The absolute fastest I can print at .2 layer at 210C is 60mm/sec without getting underextrusion. So you are near the very limit of what my UM2 can do for light blue ultimaker PLA. You are probably over that limit for this particular color of PLA. I suggest you either slow down to 40mm/sec or raise the temp to 220C. I think raising the temp is probably the better option here. Note that the bottom layer by default prints slower and it slowly speeds up over the next few layers until it gets up to your 50mm/sec. Details here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Oh - and your photo seems to be showing typical underextrusion although it's a bit hard to see what I'm looking at.

Well I filled out the information on that web page and it concluded I owed no duty/taxes.