gr5

A triangle? forget it. Still easy. Try this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33902

I don't think aviphysics put in his correct email. I tried emailing him but no luck. Did you convert him to a "member" sander? Or did he do the activation on his own? I will delete this post once I learn what happened.

Cubes are easy. It's time to print something "real". Print something needed for work. Problems you will have next: Large parts shrink and lift off the bed (easily fixed) Overhangs (think the chin on a statue) Slicing issues (doesn't print certain walls or sections of the print at all) Supports (you will want to learn meshmixer some day)

This is important to fix right away. It means you have a loose wire to the thermocouple of the heated bed. It's very easy to fix. It's either the solder connection or the screw. I would just tighten the screw and see if that fixes it. Here is a photo of what I'm talking about: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3735-a-fix-for-ultimaker-2-heated-bed-not-working/?p=29106 The larger 2 wires are the heater wires - it sounds like they are fine. The smaller two wires are the temperature sensor wires - one of them is very likely loose - tighten these two screws. For further reference, these are the five screws that you need to remove in order to take apart the heated bed: WAIT - THIS IS WRONG - NOT THOSE TOP TWO SCREWS - INSTEAD THE TWO SCREWS JUST ABOVE THAT ON THE BLACK CONNECTOR.

Yes - I've seen this before. Something is rubbing. More info on this here - the linked-to post below shows how the wheel (on the Y axis this time) was rubbing the outside of the UM. Your problem is on the X axis but it's the same basic problem. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4171-ultimaker2-axis-squeeknoise-solved/?p=34362 Removing the metal cover that hides the Y stepper is easy - only a single screw holds it in - it's (very roughly) half way up one of the edges of the white metal cover - if you look along the edge carefully you will see a spot where a bolt is welded to the cover. Then command the Y axis to move back and forth a few times. Does it squeek or is the black belt rubbing? Is there black powder down at the bottom (the belt slowly being converted to dust)? This belt (the short belt - the one going around the X stepper) is almost certainly rubbing and the fix is to slide the pulleys away from the wall. The upper pulley on the rod is easy to move but usually it's the one on the motor as shown in the picture in the above post.

I only know what those codes do on Ultimaker (Marlin). So I can't answer you. But here is a summary of those codes in Marlin: scroll way down to the gcodes on this page: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ Also here it talks about exceptions for certain firmware including Marlin (and possibly sailfish or whatever makerbot uses): http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

So... What kind of printer is this? You have it configured for center to be at "0,0" in machine settings. I assume you don't have an ultimaker because the ultimaker center is at 100,100 (roughly). This is a bug in layer view. I don't know what the workaround is. I suppose you could lie and uncheck the 0,0 box in machine settings, look at it in layer view until you are happy, then check the box again and DON'T LOOK at layer view.

Yikes - you have a bunch of issues to deal with! 1) First and foremost I think you need to fix that lean/tilt/slant of your robot. Unless the picture is confusing me - those robots are leaning. I've seen this a lot. I suppose it must be the X axis that is losing steps. This type of gradual slippage is always due to rubbing short belt. I don't know why but 10 times out of 10 when it leans like this the short belt on the X motor is touching the wood (or the Y motor if it's leaning forwards/backwards). So look at that short belt on the X motor carefully. You may need to add 1 washer under each of the 4 plastic spacers holding the X stepper. Or maybe you just need to slide the motor pulley slightly closer to the motor but don't let it touch the motor. 2) Leaking nozzle - this is second most serious issue. DO NOT tighten anything on the head without heating it to 180C first. 250C is too hot - 180C is plenty. It's easy to break those brass threads if you don't - the solid PLA acts like strong glue and brass is soft compared to steel so be firm but careful. One solution is to add teflon plumbers tape. It costs almost nothing at a hardware store and you can wrap the threads. If you do this be extremely careful not to get any of the teflon in the way that would block the pla or rip off and get clogged in the nozzle. teflon will stay solid below 300C. I did not use any teflon. I just had everything screwed together slightly better. Nothing is more than finger tight but I got lucky I guess. Another common fix for this is to run ABS filament through the nozzle - this kind of plugs up all the leaks. Another solution is to not worry about it and eventually the PLA will turn to black gunk and seal itself. Maybe. 3) bubbling - you just need more layers - it takes quite a few layers to seal a bridged space like that 4) broken strings/ ugliness underneath. Flip the damn cover over! It's meant to be printed the other way. Click on the part in Cura and click rotate icon and rotate it 180 degrees. Flipping over will solve those bubbles also. You will have more problems in the future - curling corners due to warping. Part's not sticking well. Post when you do or google this forum for solutions as these are trivial to fix.

Pause won't help if it stopped extruding due to a nozzle jam an hour earlier and the printer is printing higher up over thin air. I have to figure out exactly where it ended. Once you remove the print from the bed it's all over. I dont' know how to "glue" it back onto the bed after it's been removed. Although if you did I suppose you could align it very carefully by positioning the head over 2 points in the print and placing the print in the exact right spot. Never tried that.

yes, really 8-10 weeks. Someone just got one today after 9 week wait. Shipping is 3 days to USA. Shipping cost if I remember right is around $150? I forget. And if price goes over $2500 or so you might have to pay around $50 in duty/import taxes. Depends on exchange rate maybe.

Note that this can hold 2 extruders up in the air above the spools. The part nearest the camera above connects where the spool holder normally connects.

Yes! This is true of the .4mm nozzle also. They extrude a larger "noodle" than their diameters. At least it appears to be the case.

Is it exactly half? It's very unlikely that the trim pot would cause the problem you see. More likely a short circuit where the circled jumper is. Check those leads carefully for some stray solder maybe.

You should post which firmware you have as someone will read this a year from now and wonder. In fact you should not post the version of Cura, but the version of Marlin by checking the version with your printer.

Well the posting including the above photo came from someone called "Martin Renold" over on google groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/rx4t5ADCc8U/NKAqvUYoSt0J He has a few posts near the bottom. I recommend you ask him there. The people over on ultimaker google groups are really smart. You would definitely have to reduce that gap! For example you could extend the bowden partly across the gap. I don't know the answer. I'm not even sure how useful this is. I think this is only useful if you also measure the filament position.

I think simmon is talking about a fire that will burn down his work place or cause serious damage. I don't think this is a worry. The worst thing likely to happen is that something will get knocked off the bed and you will print a big mess and waste some filament. The worst thing possible is that the thermostat falls out and the head heats to 300C and wrecks itself (the nylon parts will melt and be destroyed). But no serious fire damage to the UM or your building.

Ideally you want retraction the exact amount so that the PLA just rests on the bottom of the bowden at the top of the arc. There should be no actual suction down at the nozzle. If there is then: 1) You should reduce retraction. 2) Air will get into the nozzle - that air will make it's way upwards and the hole at the bottom will get covered with PLA. That air pocket will expand and push out some PLA causing nozzle leakage or stringing and later some underextrusion.

I don't quite understand but if you sharpened your filament to a point before loading would it get by the lip just fine? I think it's reasonable to always have to sharpen the filament to a point. Also try sliding PLA through the nylon piece that has been chewed up a bit by the extruder. Will the teeth marks of the extruder get stuck on this lip?

80C is too hot for PLA. I recommend 70C. Did you use the glue stick? Even stronger than gluestick is wood glue mixed with water (3 parts water, 1 part wood glue) then spread on glass and allowed to dry completly (takes maybe same amount to dry as to get the heated bed up to 70C). Often I fail a print because the print head it's the part hard and knocks it off. But usually I glue it down so strong that you can hit the part with a hammer and it won't come off. Then the hard part is getting the part off the glass when it is done. The secret is to wait until it is COMPLETELY cooled down and use a sharp knife or a sharpened putty knife.

You should push some filament through and if it takes a significant amount of force then drill it. Otherwise I'd be afraid to mess with it.

UM1 or UM2? It depends - if you have sudden moves in only one axis and they tend to happen in large amounts (>1mm per layer) and all at once, it is usually a loose setscrew on a pulley. If the problem is that the part has a gradual lean it means it is missing a step or two on every layer consistently and is usually caused by something rubbing. Almost always the thing rubbing is the short belt or one of the short belt pulleys for that axis. So you want to move those pulleys farther from the wall of the UM to keep the belt from rubbing. Another symptom is sometimes you see black powder as the belt gets pulverized or you hear squeaking on UM2 where pulley is touching the wall. In all cases the solution is to move the pulley closer to the motor or away from the wall. It should be almost touching the motor. On the UM1 if you used the plastic spacers you need to add one washer under each of the plastic standoffs to move the belt farther from the wood. Can you supply a picture of a "leaning right side" print? And is this a UM Original or UM2?

After reading ian's post and thinking about it quite a bit I disagree with most of what he says except a few things - I see *several* possible ways that the extruder can degrade and chew up and cause pieces of ABS to get into the nozzle causing underextrusion. Ian highlighted those. I do *not* see any problems (that he pointed out) that would result in under powered extruder. And the bottom left comment - I think that's a feature - not a problem. Or maybe I don't understand. There's plenty of room for movement on my UM2. When I feed the filament in I see the idler move over just like it should. No problems there for me. I know the black piece is ABS because that's one of those secret things that the moderators were told (by Harma) in a private conversation. It's not a secret that the black piece was ABS. She may not have even leaked any secrets. But it was a private conversation. It may seem like I have special knowledge but it's barely more than anyone else knows and I get it probably long after everyone else at UM knows and probably not long before it's posted publicly. I don't know what the white piece is made of.

From experience this force is tiny compared to 1kg. However when there is already 3Kg of force on the filament in the bowden, now I expect some significant resistance. I'm not sure how to measure that. I guess if I completely disassembled the bowden and put it in a jig and put force meters on both ends and tried to see how much gets lost in the bowden. When under 5kg of pressure at one end - how much force is received at the other end? Test both static and dynamic friction under those conditions. Variations: with and against curvature of filament. With and without oil. Nylon versus PLA. flexible pla versus regular pla.

Here is a strain gauge that, once calibrated, can keep track of the pressure accurately. In case you don't recognize this - this is a UM Original feeder where the bowden would normally attach and the strain gauge is in the gap and the bowden is instead attached with black tape. This is not my picture or design but very interesting. I found this on ultimaker google group but can't find it now.

In general the biggest improvements in quality are made by lowering the speed and/or acceleration. This is so that the extruder tends to extrude at a more consistent rate so you don't get over/under extrusion at every line segment due to the head speeding up and slowing down and the delay caused by the springiness of the filament in the bowden. The software in Marlin tries to take into account the position of filament and X and Y and Extruder (called 4 dimensional linearity) all at the same time and does this perfectly but doesn't take into account the delay caused by the bowden stretching. Changing layer thickness to .06 will also improve quality and you don't have to change anything else but it will print much slower of course. I have found that the quality at .2mm sometimes exceeds that at .1 or .3. But .06 is usually better than .1m At some point the quality starts to get worse again. But again - slowing down to say 30mm/sec will probably help quality more than going to .06mm. At 30mm/sec the printer hardly has any acceleration or deceleration at the corners which means the flow of PLA is more constant and consistent. Also at 30mm/sec the pressure inside the nozzle is lower and more manageable for things like stringing and unwanted leakage. Also at 30mm/sec (and slower) you can lower the temp so that the UM can more easily "print in the air". If you really need to print high detail on the side of a pencil or something you should consider getting a smaller nozzle hole diameter at some point. I don't know any way to do that on the UM2 but on the UM Original you can buy other sized nozzles.