gr5

Hey you tried the oil! yay! Most people don't. I've never printed on PEI so I can't really help you. You'll have to google around I guess. Or experiment. To get it to stick less, squish less. And maybe remove all the magigoo? Using isopropyl alcohol maybe? I really don't know. Or add some "mold release" which is typically some kind of oil to the bed?

Very nice. If you design your clip with openScad then it's easy to make your model "customizable" on thingiverse such that people can type in any thickness of the clips they want. But still, this should be helpful to someone as I think you covered all the likely needed sizes, lol.

Again, let me know when you get stuck.

tinker has some kind of make or build script that builds every version. I completely forget what to do as it has been years. I'm 90% sure you can't use the arduino IDE. Just read the instructions I link to above. You can contact tinkerGnome directly but wait until you get stuck. I can also contact him for you if needed. I talk to him on slack almost every day.

This is a common problem on glass plate UM2 and UM3 printers. The plate is tempered and produced in sheets about 2 meters wide if I remember right and UM gets the glass from the center but the glass is thicker in the middle. Like a mountain range running down the middle of the glass in one axis. It's subtle but you can see it with a metal ruler or straight edge. Then we level on only 3 points where the 3 screws are. So those 3 points are PERFECT. So the glass is already thinner in the 4 corners and after leveling the front two corners are raised up. This results in a plate that is extra low in the rear two corners. So printing in the rear two corners is almost always too high and you get worse adhesion back there. One solution is to just not print in those 2 corners. Another is to raise the rear of the glass after leveling is done by just unscrewing the rear screw about 1/2 turn. I think you can tell Cura to print the first layer lower or thicker or something maybe? Then you could do a per-model-setting possibly? Probably not. You could edit the gcodes a bit to squish the prints in the rear corners a little more.

I have gotten maybe 100 tangles like that over the years. None in the last 5 years. You learn to grab the end of the filament and never let it out of your grip (death grip) until loaded on the back of the printer. No manufacture ships it with a tangle. Not only is it easy for them not to - if you watch how the filament is wound - there is just no way to add the tangle. It's "user error". It is worse with some filaments than others due to their springyness - they just kind of go "sproing" out of your finger and suddenly the end jumps under another loop and then there is a tangle but you didn't notice. It all looks fine visually unless you unspool it a bit.

You will very likely lose settings on your printer. It depends how new your firmware is on the um2. The um2 stores some settings in a special area of eeprom which doesn't get written over when you load new firmware. Things like: material settings for multiple materials (for example for pla it stores things like fan speed, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, nozzle temp, bed temp) bed leveling value from most recent bed leveling Size of printer, bed, positions of where to go for nozzle prime, several other 3d positions used before and after printing This data block has a version number in it. When you install a NEWER version of firmware, it checks the version and knows how to update the older data to the newer locations/format. When you install an OLDER version of firmware it sometimes screws that up (older firmware can't know data format for a future firmware not yet written at the time the older firmware was written). So when you install older firmware it often either messes things up or it is smart enough to do a factory reset. If it messes things up you have to manually do a factory reset (trivial - it's in the menu). When you do this factory reset all the mentioned values above go back to defaults and it will force you to go through the unboxing, powerup procedure which is to load filament and level the bed. If you still have old firmware on your um2, older than tinkermarlin firmware, then you won't lose anything. But maybe write down all those material settings just in case.

By the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.

Easy for some. Hard for others. For me it would take several hours because I've only done it a few times. The "hex file" is the firmware. It's a version of Marlin. Probably 80% of all 3d printers use marlin and a few years ago it was probably 99%. There are many forks of Marlin. It sounds like you have to edit the source code. I don't know what edits you need to do. That might be the easy part or the hardest part. But then you have to compile Marlin. That's the part that would take me a few hours to install everything and figure it all out. Instructions are here:

Plugging in the power cable can be very tricky. Sometimes it feels like the cable is in but it isn't. I'm talking about on the back of the printer. This happened to me once and at least 2 people on this forum. I was convinced it was the brick but it was the cable. The circuit board can move a bit and then the cable won't fit. Fix was to remove bottom cover, loosen screws that hold the board, plug in the brick, and then tighten the screws and replace the cover. Also the power bricks have a powerful computer in them and the computer can get in a permanent loop. I had one power supply that unplugging for 1 hours was not enough. I had to unplug it for 24 hours and then it started working! Does the brick LED turn on when you power it up? If not try the 24 hour downtime.

There's no need. Leveling will be consistent for months. Even years. I know because I've tested this. As long as you don't change print cores or add a layer of glue to the glass or similar. Also, the leveling switch in a UM3 is consistent to much better than .1mm which is crazy surprising.

Well it has a ton of nice features such as "continue failed print" which would be useful if you lose power again.

Heat the bed to 60C and heat the nozzle to 200 using the front panel on the printer. No need to wait for those to heat up and in fact they will use more power while heating and less once they reach there. Actually turn the side fans on as well as either side or rear fans could cause a short (rear fan comes on when heat to nozzle comes on). Then just push the print head around to the corners. See if it kills power. It seems so strange to me that it only happens on "pause at layer". The head moves to 0,0 at the start of the print job as well I think? But maybe no heat at that time. If it happens only when you push the head around then there is almost certainly some kind of intermittent short and not a problem with the power brick. If it only happens on "pause at layer" then I don't know what is going on - some violent high acceleration servo move at the same time as heaters? I suppose it's possible. There is also a way to reduce the amount of power that the bed uses for power supplies that are "old" or something. It's called "power budget" and is a feature found in tinkerMarlin firmware for UM2+: https://github.com/tinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases In power budget, add up the budget for the nozzle and bed, leave those alone and then set the budget to be 50 watts lower than that total. That will lower max power usage by 50 watts. I would not get any other power brick other than the one you already have. Although there is a GST and GS version and the GS version can put out a bit more power and the GST is a bit safer if I remember right (more power shutdown conditions maybe?). I forget why GST was considered better. They are a bit pricey at around $90 each.

There could be a short. Does it happen often? Or just he one time? The nozzle heater cable may short out and kill power. When the head is in a corner it stresses the cable a bit and may cause a short deep inside the print head. More likely it is the power brick.

It took me years to figure this out but once a loop goes under another it just exists "forever". The solution is to slide many loops off the spool. Well first remove the spool from the printer, then slide several (maybe 5, maybe 20) loops of the spool and untwist to make sure there are no tangles. Then carefully spool it back up and put it back on the printer. You may think "but I was very careful from the moment I took the spool out of the packaging to never get it twisted under itself". It only takes a moment and it sproings like a spring and the end instantly gets tucked under another loop. By the way, it's possible to fix his without removing the filament from the feeder. But trickier.

Do you have a material station? When you did the hot and cold pulls, did the nozzle extrude anything?

An Ender is a type of printer. When he uses an ender profile it slices fine. There is probably some settings change. It could be as obscure as line width. Or "print thin lines" or a dozen other things. You could load some other printers such as an S5 (which has better debugged profiles) or an Ender 3 printer and see if your issue goes away. If so you can then compare all the settings differences. Or you could as @GregValiant to post *his* 3mf file for a successful slicing and then you can load is profile which will contain his ender machine profile along with his slicing profile and you can compare those settings to your settings. There are about 500 settings in cura so it may take some time. But many of them such as temperature and speed, accel, are extremely unlikely to make a difference.

I'm still on Cura 5.4, sorry. Why you guys constantly upgrading, lol. I feel like I've upgraded Cura 100 times since it was working great and had all the features I wanted. Although I've probably upgraded only 20 times. If it works, don't fix it.

It's a BC817. Schematics are posted here: http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?p=11752#p11757 Yeah it's probably T1 there that you are pointing to. Below is a crop on lower left of page 2 of above linked pdf. Notice the "J14" and "T1". It could be D5. I'd make sure D5 isn't shorted when you put the red probe on pin 1 and black on P2 with the fans disconnected. D5 shorted can cause T1 to fail as well possibly. But it's probably just T1. Schematic says it is a "BC817" whatever that is. D5 can be almost any type of diode - it's for something called "flyback protection" so you could I suppose search for that but really, any standard diode will achieve flyback protection. This protection is needed for switches that turn coils on and off. Especially the "off" part. Relays and motors both have coils.

Is the filament now stuck in the MS or does it retract completely and properly? If it's stuck then you probably need to take the MS apart. There are wonderful, detailed instructions.

Did you watch the video I just linked to? It explains the cause of warping. It explains the solutions. You wouldn't be asking this question if you watched the video.

@kcpilotpat - your words seem to describe underextrusion but to be sure, can you supply a photo? If underextrusion is only happening on the first layer then it's probably a leveling issue. If it happens on other layers then, well this is a common problem on 3d printers and usually indicates a hardware issue with your printer.

Play with "combing mode". As greg says. It can eliminate all that stringing.

Agreed. Maybe make a test one only 2cm tall.

Very strange. I have not experienced this on my UM3. Some people use hairspray to prepare the glass bed. I would strongly suspect this issue if you share the printers with many people. You are supposed to spray the glass when it is not in the printer but some people spray it while still in place and it can get on the Z screw and other undesired places. Although I don't have a front cover. It looks like you do. Maybe it gets too hot in the plastic coverings and maybe UM used a glue gun for the LED strips and that is now melting.