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Sounds like a feature. It's probably buried in expert settings somewhere. Also note that you can always download the latest cura but *not* install the latest Marlin. Or you can always install an older version of Marlin. On a PC the Marlin files are located here (or very similar): C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_13.10\Cura\resources\firmware And you can load the Marlin onto your UM under the "expert" menu.

It's probably just a loose wire. The shipping on the UM2's seems to have been unusually rough and some connectors came off. Take the larger cover off on the bottom of the UM and check all the connectors. I think it's the connector with 2 blue wires in the top in this photo where it says "x-stop".

Quite a few people with UM2's had the fan wire come off in shipping. Perhaps yours was at the verge of coming apart. Reportedly it is VERY easy to fix. The open connector is in the print head. There are photos - make sure you look at posting #17 (posting numbers are on the right side of each posting in it's title bar: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3233-ultimaker-2-major-problems/?p=24105

When I did this last, I used a wrench but I did it gently. At 180C.

I have gotten better results with larger parts. The towers in my experiment were very small so they never get a chance to cool much. So even though the purple filament worked perfectly the white filament I tried never was able to stop stringing. But if you print something larger, like maybe 30X30 mm hollow cube you should get better results. I have printed larger things with white filament at 190C and 20mm/sec and basically zero stringing. You just touch it and the strings come off. No sanding. No bumps or visible spots where the strings were. Also make sure fan is at 100%. Do you have the retraction clip on the extruder? If not either print it or increase the 4.5mm to maybe 5.5? Not sure how much to increase by.

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ Both of those are very good but I guess the second one is the definitive. Scroll way way down on the second link.

In slice view there is a slider on the right. Slide it down until you only see a little of the shoulder pads.

That's as expected. The voltage is just floating and when floating you can end up getting *any* random voltage. Although my arduino tends to read around 5 volts (and yours is reading 4.54 volts so this agrees with my experience). There is a small circuit board on the print head that converts the temperature at the thermocouple into voltage where 0 volts is 0 degrees C and 5 volts is 500 degrees C. The Arduino reads 4.54 V which means 454C so it reports MAXTEMP. I get this error if I simply push on the cable on top of my print head hard enough.

regarding double heating... I think he means he sets the temp in the cura print window, then when he starts the print, it goes to the other temperature - the one he set in the settings - before it does the homing procedure.

Oh. Then check out colorFabb maybe. They also make very high quality PLA. Here is a partial list of filament providers: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printing_Material_Suppliers The only place listed that ships 3mm from Hong Kong implies that the filament really is *3mm* which would be a problem: http://3dprinterczar.com/shop/filament/1kg-pla-filament/ You could ask them in an email.

Even if you only did the top 100 color/manufacturer combinations it would cost you something like $3000 worth of filament! There's just too much out there. Also on rare occasions you might get a batch that got some humidity in it but more important there are probably lots of factors we don't know about such as fan speed, air temp, humidity, EXACT nozzle size (to within .01mm) and shape (sometimes the hole isn't quite round), "movement speed" which is another setting in Cura when it is not extruding (fast speeds are good and can break the string). Some people use different fan shrouds (like you) which can change things, and some people's thermocouple seem to be off by as much as 30 degrees (although 90% of them seem accurate to at least 1 degree C). And so on. Even the size of the part. I did tests with a tiny part that barely had time for each layer to cool so the "solid" layer below was warmer than typical.

You can get the bleeding edge version of Marlin (okay actually it's a few months old) built very easily here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ And upload the hex file with Cura expert settings. But the version of Marlin that comes with the UM is fine. I always set the temp to 0 in cura settings which lets you set the temp to whatever you want before starting printing and you that way you also don't have to wait for the temp to settle before starting the print. Once the print gets going you can change the temp as often as you want but careful not to get too close to 170C because if you go lower than that then the extruder won't turn and you will wreck your print. So stay above 180C to avoid going under 170 by accident.

You probably have too many segments. Is the gcode file size larger than typical? You might want to reduce the qty of polygons in the STL. Here are instructions for doing it with Meshlab which is easy, fast, and free: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html

Usually 3mm PLA is actually smaller. Similar to when you buy a 2X4 piece of wood it is also smaller than 2X4 inches. However some manufacturers actually do make it at 3mm and this is a problem for Ultimakers (more than most printers) because of the bowden tube. The Bowden tube on the ultimaker can usually take up to around 3.05 or 3.1mm before it jams. Every bowden tube is a little different so yours might be even 3.2mm but probably not. So you would think 3.0mm PLA is fine. But it's not. For one thing, the feeder for the ultimaker squeezes the filament so hard that it is no longer round. The other problem is that filament diameter varies typically by .1mm over the course of a singe reel of filament. So it may be 3.00mm for the first 5 meters and then grow to 3.1mm for the next 5mm. When it jams in your bowden you will get very frustrated and might have trouble getting it out again. After this happens 3 times you will throw it all away and wish you had spent more money. There are many manufacturers of 2.8 to 2.9mm filament. What country do you live in? In USA I recommend printbl.com. Very good quality.

100mm/sec X .2mm layer height X .4mm nozzle width = 8mm^3/Second This is the height times the width times the length-speed. This is the volume of plastic per second. The ultimaker original can print this fast but it is difficult. I don't know about Ultimaker 2.

If you print as cold as you can go - maybe 185 or 190C and super slow: 20mm/sec you should get zero stringing. However you should be able to get a compromise speed faster than that and still get zero or very little stringing. Every color and manufacturer of PLA is different however. Definitely print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 And read this (first photo): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ And double check Cura in slice view to make sure it is truly trying to retract. The blue lines show non extruding movement and if there is a little vertical line then that indicates the retraction. There may be bugs in cura where it thinks it is inside your part and doesn't bother doing retraction. Or for other reasons. Also check the advanced retraction settings and force it to *always* retract no matter what.

That's often enough. I think you just need a heated bed :( at this point.

If you have an ulticontroller you can set the flow but only *after* it starts printing. It's in the "tune" menu which suddenly appears when you start printing from SD card. You can do almost anything withoug the UC but this is probably one of them. I don't think there is a flow control through Cura print window. A hack would be to just level the bed a little closer to the nozzle than normal (or spin the Z screw several clicks (maybe 5?) after the print starts). You want lots of juicy, fat, oozing flow. I usually also print the first layer hotter so it flows into the cracks of the tape and also nice and low so it gets pushed into the tape. Never do a second layer on brim as this can cause lifting/warping (a new hot layer on a cold layer will eventually cool and shrink and pull). But it's fine to do bottom layer .3mm.

That update might only be related to Ultimaker 2's. Daid hasn't given out much details on that issue. I think the update is a firmware update but even that I'm unclear on.

Paul I don't think you read my post about flow. Please read it again and check your 13.10 setings. Many many people reported the same thing as you did and this was how they fixed it.

Up your flow and thickness of the brim. If first layer was .1mm then up to .2mm. If it was .2mm then up to .3mm then also increase flow to maybe 150% while doing the brim and outer skin to get good connection.

See? Not the same problem. I've heard people say they used teflon plumbers tape to stop leaks. Have you ever used that in plumbing? It's very cheap - its a thin teflon tape that you wrap 2 or 3 times around the threads and then screw it in. Also other people use ABS to plug leaks. Ultimaker used to ship a little bit of ABS filament with every UM and you were supposed to use that to plug leaks somehow but I'm not sure what the temperature and procedure is exactly.

Yeah, I said the same thing. The guy is long gone and will probably never read any of our answers. :(

But.... Did you use a brim? It's a feature in Cura in the basic settings under "support". Plus there are modifications in expert settings I think.

How big is your part? Can you rotate it 90 degrees?