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Thanks. I will point people to this link next time someone needs tweakAtZ.

Is the stepper noise when you first turn on power? Or when you first start a print?

I got my Ultimaker Original Kit a year ago. I ordered it and it showed up faster than I expected. I didn't have to call anyone. I didn't have any problems. Could that be the fan on the bottom of the UM? It can be *very* noisy and the sound often stops after a few seconds. Many people have had trouble with that fan. You can remove the sticker and add a drop of oil if it gets worse. You can purchase a better one. I still have my original fan and if it gets noisy I hit my UM and the sound usually stops.

You mean this version control??? https://github.com/RicardoGA/Cura-Plugin/ You can either: 1) Email your version to ricardoGA - his email is in his profile 2) create your own github, check out his version into yours, commit your update, and then send him a pull request to merge your changes into his version 3) Create your own github and post it on this list. Or do you mean does Daid have this plugin in version control? Actually the official teakAtZ plugin repository is here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_TweaktAtZ So you could submit a pull request to "smorloc". Anyway, before you do any of that, can you provide a link to your updated tweak-at-z plugin please?

You have to enter the Z height EXACTLY. The first time it sees this new Z value it inserts the plugin code. Look at the gcode with and without the plugin running. The gcode is easy to read as it has lots of comments explaining the layer number and such.

Explain more details. Does it fail connecting USB? Does it fail the limit switch tests? Everyone at UM Support speaks dutch. There are nice people there who can help you and are in your time zone. They have been very busy but are finally caught up and would be happy to help you. I suggest you call them tomorrow. Do you have a voltmeter? The voltage should be >10Volts. I think 19V. You could disconnect the connector at the fan and measure the voltage. If you have the Ulticontroller you can turn the fan on with that - set it to 255 (full fan). Normally the fan doesn't come on until the second layer of printing (this is setting in Cura).

It's certainly possible. Actually any time you have retraction, if you think about it, you are sliding PLA upwards which also brings heat upwards. The warm/hot PLA is moving up to a cooler section of the print head and transferring some heat up there. then it goes back down and *now* the part of the print head just warmed up heats the higher up PLA and on the *next* retraction you transfer the heat higher up again. Only a little heat is transferred each time. But that 3rd fan should help prevent this from getting to severe. More likely in my opinion is that the 3rd fan on the print head is broken. I'm pretty sure it should always be spinning when you heat up the nozzle. The purpose of that is to keep the nylon pieces from melting and also to keep heat from getting up towards the top of the print head assembly.

I'm confused - that pink part you printed - was it ABS or PLA90? It was ABS, right?

Cool! I want to get me that stuff... However you are confusing humidity with % by weight. Some people think 100% humidity means you have 100% water and 0% air. But no, 100% is when you can't add any more water (as a gas) to the air and adding any more water will be in droplet (liquid) form. At 100% humitidty, 1 cubic meter of air at 30C holds 30 grams of water And the air alone weighs about 1200g So even if humidity is at 100%, this is only about 2.5% water by weight (that's normally how you do it -- by weight). So if your goal is to keep water under .02% then the humidity only needs to get down to .8% to have the *air* .02% by weight. I'm not sure how this translates to qty of water in PLA though. But getting humidity down to 1% should help a lot!

Heated bed mostly just helps with the sticking to the print bed. The temperature drops quickly as you move up. You will probably need to enclose your UM if you want to make a different that far up off the print bed. But, yes, a HB should help. If you get a HB, consider also moving your X and Y steppers *outside* the UM (no holes need to be drilled, nothing needs to be purchased). It will be noisier though as the steppers will be touching the wood directly. You'll have to reverse the direction. One way to do that is to just build marlin with the axis direction reversed (checkboxes for that here): http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ Then cover the 3 open sides with plastic and the top with a big box (need space for the bowden). There you go - heated chamber.

Hopefully the jumper issue will fix your problem but if not... Changing the Marlin won't help you change the steps per mm. You can *ask* your printer how many steps per mm the Z is set to, then you can double that value, and save it back into your machine. Actually I would use pronterface (free) to send the gcodes: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ M503 <- tells you current settings of your machine including steps/mm for z axis (probably 533) M92 Z1066 <- sets steps per mm for z axis to 55 (but only temporary until rebooting of machine) M500 <-- stores that setting permanently into eprom

That is mostly true but with the below bridges (150mm!) there is clearly some gravity interaction that would be fixed if the printer was on it's side: http://www.3dgeni.us/a-bridge-too-far/

If you end up sanding it down, adding filler, and priming and painting - it will probably look great. If you do post the final print please!!

Sorry you don't have your own printer where you can just run it overnight. A lot of the bumpouts - like on his bum -- those can be reduced by slowing down the print: See photo of the orange pumpkin here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com//index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010 Also going to thinner layers (was that .2mm? Try .1mm) will improve the overhangs - for example the chest. With .1mm layer each layer above is touching more of the layer below and you get a cleaner/better look. But doing these 2 changes will turn your print probably into a 10 hour print. You can speed it up quite a bit without any loss of quality (very likely) by not doing any infill. Just set it to 0. This will save you lots of time. From the rear view the right leg looks better. Probably it had more fan on it. For this reason some people add a second fan on the other side. And the UM2 comes with a fan on each side. But again, printing slower helps just as good as having more fan.

The man and girl model was already scaled to 63mm tall. So it was only roughly 10X scaling. The guy alone was scaled to 7.46mm in sketchup (had to rotate him to vertical so I did it in sketchup instead of cura and scaled while I was at it). I also had to modify the porsche a little so I scaled that in sketchup also and the jeep (aka land rover) I also scaled in sketchup. All of these parts were found in various places around the internet. Two decimal places seemed plenty accurate to me for the roughly 1/10th scaling. I think I scaled the people to be 6 feet tall as close as possible.

Perhaps you had under-extrusion due to printing too fast/cold. It would be nice to see a photo of what you mean. .2mm at 50mm/sec is obviously twice the volume of PLA going through the print head than .1mm at 50mm/sec. So the extruder has a harder time keeping up and if the head is slowing down at corners for example you tend to get over extrusion approaching the corners and under-extrusion when it is back to full speed. Again, please post photo? I think I can barely see it on the left edge of the blue pillar base. Some interesting stuff about ringing here: skip to post #8 (post numbers are shown on the right edge) http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006

If you are printing something larger than your smallest finger with a .25 nozzle - well - then you have more patience than me! These links are pretty good - but I think the first link is better. .3mm nozzle on ultimaker - finer but slower: http://www.tridimake.com/2013/05/3d-printing-with-smaller-nozzle-diameter.html .2mm nozzle http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=2584

It looks like you had under-extrusion for a few layers. One possible cause is if the filament tangles. Another explanation is if you got "bad" filament that is at 3 or 3.1mm instead of the standard 2.85mm. Try measuring the filament although the diameter may only be bad in one spot. Too bad you didn't catch the problem on video. :( The glue stick and heat will help the corners from cooling but won't fix the reason the print failed. Note also that at one point you have a cylinder sticking out the side of your part and the bottom didn't print well as it was printing in "mid air". If you can change the cad so the bottom of the cylinder angles a little you might get a better result although if it were me I would just fix it afterwards with a file.

With infill at 25% and higher you get a different pattern. I recommend 20% to get the other infill pattern. >Temp Control of the Hotend is not really working well This is important to fix. Heat up the hot end and with your fingers push on the wires near the print head and try to get max temp error or try to get the temp to change. The error is usually from the cable from print head to underneath UM. If so, then you can use the extra cable instead (at both ends). Switch to the other cable at the print head and switch underneath the UM also so the new cable is used in place of the old. Sometimes the failure comes from the tiny circuit board on the print head. You might need a new one.

I've tried it and it doesn't help as far as I can tell. You just can't print an overhang in thin air regardless of gravity. For example if you are printing someone's head and are having trouble under their chin, tilting the UM onto it's back doesn't help much. But tilting the print *before* slicing does help of course.

Désolé pour la mauvaise traduction. Le problème est avec la connexion USB. Essayez un autre ordinateur, un câble différent, ou essayer d'obtenir un amplificateur USB / tampon. Aussi parfois le problème est un économiseur d'énergie ou économiseur d'écran.

If you are only worried about bowing (center of bridge sagging) then just tilt your UM onto it's side. The UM will print upside down or in any orientation. But this problem where the head remelts the previous string won't be helped by printing on one's side.

If someone wired the wires to the motor backwards you will get exactly what happened. So... You can either swap the wires to the correct position... Or if you have a UM Original (not the UM2) then you can rebuild marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ And reverse the checkbox for inverting x axis (uncheck it).

I'm not so sure - I know this darlington is a common part to destroy. Probably when the fan is at anything other than 0% or 100%. It may be fine at 100% with 4A (not sure) but if you have the fan at 50% and it switches say 100 times per second then the heat dissipation is pretty high during those switching moments between off and on. But without knowing the exact curve and integrating the wattage over that curve it's difficult to calculate the wattage going into that poor little darlington.

So.... Naz. I watched both videos. It's hard to tell what the issue is. If your first layer is supposed to be .3 or thicker - well it looks like you are too close to the print bed because the first layer in parts is *very* thin. I'd guess .05mm. So if you are asking for .1mm or more thickness but only printing .05, the pressure is going to build up. A lot! And I would expect slipping of the extruder. And occasionally it squirts out the side of the nozzle and makes kind of ugly blobs. So I think you should lower the print bed a tiny bit. But by the time you get to the second or third layer it should start to look pretty good. Because on the second layer now it should be the correct distance and so it only has to deal with the blobs. By the third layer it might be fine. Now in the second video with the blue filament it is clearly slipping. I don't understand the "filament loading procedure" but I do know that at one point Marlin lowers the current to the stepper on purpose so that it will skip steps and not harm the filament. Clearly the feeder can't keep up with the extrusion speed. So I urge you to pay careful attention to the print volume of filament and the temperature. There is a limit to how much any 3d printer can extrude. It's just more obvious now if it is slipping because on the UM2 you can hear it skipping steps (slipping backwards with that click sound). Illuminarti made this great table but it is for a .65mm nozzle on a UM1 but it gives you a good idea of the limits. Basically my UM1 can print about 10 cubic mm at 230C but at 190C much less. I suspect the UM2 needs higher temperatures than the UM1 due to that tiny heat chamber but no one has published tests for a UM2 (which is sooo much easier as you can simply listen for the clicks at different print speeds and temperatures! and then take good notes and publish). Scroll down to the colorful graph: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/