gr5

I see vertical lines - probably ringing - you probably printed pretty fast (e.g. > 100mm/sec) you can take those out without slowing down by lowering acceleration by a factor of 2 but why bother? If you are happy then I'm happy - looks good.

black gunk on the print head is fine as long as it never drips into your print. If you heat PLA for hours, days, it turns brown or black and can usually (fortunately) plug up any holes/leaks.

Mine is at 11.5mm spring length when closed but your mileage may vary (YMMV). Your orange filament looks like it's going to tangle soon! Straighten that out!

1) Nice job! This is a good photo of what the 3rd hot end fan looks like! You are probably now one of the most knowledgable UM2 users who doesn't actually work for UM. 2) I recommend you print lots of pla until you get all the tiny black spots out. Might take a full meter of pla. Unless you don't care about tiny black spots.

There are several possibilities. The most likely is a slipping pulley. Try pushing the head in Y direction and make sure the Y stepper is moving. If not tighten all the set screws. Next the stepper driver. I would swap the printer driver for X and Y. Google about these and where they are located. Remove them very very carefully by prying one side, then the other, then back to the first side. You don't want to bend the pins. Also insert very carefully and examine them to make sure none of the pins bent when you did it. It's actually quite easy to do if you are patient and have a tool (like a small screwdriver) that can gently pry off the stepper driver. These are also called "pololu" so if you are googling about the stepper drivers you could check for that instead of "stepper driver". Always add and remove these while power is off. You can run these for a few seconds with no fan but if anything gets hot it's time to cut power and put the fan on. Particularly that one part that sticks up the most. That gets hot first. Lastly the stepper itself or the cabling. I doubt it is these though. But if so, the problem will stay with the X when you swap drivers.

In the future, don't let the nozzle stay above 180C for more than a minute if possible without extruding some. I know you say there is no "manual extrude" option but it's in there somewhere - in the UC menus. It's tricky to find but once you know where it is, you will never foget. Or you can hook up the USB cable and control it through pronterface or cura.

Sounds like your hot end is clogged. You need to loosen those 4 thumb screws and take it all apart. Get the hot end loose so it is hanging, then use a paper clip or something and try to clean it out while still hot. Or you can let it cool, remove the temp probe and heater, then take the brass piece over a stove flame and burn out the rest of the PLA in there. It's bad to let PLA sit at temperatures over 190C for more than a few minutes as it kind of boils and turns in to a black sticky gunk that fully or partially clogs the hot end. You need to have a visual sighting through the hole to be sure there is no clog - in other words you should be able to see light through the nozzle. You should definitely be able to push at least some PLA through by hand although normally there can be 5 to 10 pounds of force on it. But 1 pound should be enough to get a little bit through as long as the temp is 180C or warmer.

Look at it in xray view in cura. If you see *any* red then technically the model violates standards for what is okay in an stl file. Having said that, you will probably want to fix this using the "fix horrible" settings. Or seriously consider using an older version of cura that could handle "bad" stl files better: 13.04.

I think you didn't see this one Weiin. Please read the posts that you didn't read yet: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/rx4t5ADCc8U/i6OO4H0qCVEJ That one that nick printed looked as good as yours Weiin but it's hard to tell because I don't have yours in front of me anymore. I was going to print some better quality robots over the weekend but I forgot because you kind of stopped responding to the posts. Weiin - do you have any friends with macro lenses? Do you have any friends into photography? It would be nice to get better pictures of that "good" robot.

Something very strange is going on with your feeder. Did you see the other post where someone took it apart? The new um2 feeder? There's a hole somewhere and you can stick in a screw driver and adjust the tension somehow.

Well I was thinking when the layer height is .06mm or thinner this would be helpful. And maybe the top speed would be only 200mm/sec. But I suppose for .2mm layer height you would have to print at 240C.

I'm not familiar with this issue although many other people are. I suggest you google these forums and the google groups. In fact, just use google. Perhaps "ultimaker bowden tube pops off".

I see your picture now! I see you have already performed 2b. That is a very normal looking tip. The hollow part is when you pull it out while it is still warm but not hot enough to melt. That is normal. Seeing this your problem is very likely not 2b or 2c. That leaves 2a or 1.

By the way - when you sped up the print near the top - you can see the quality of the wall got worse. This is called "underextrusion". The problem is the filament isn't getting through the nozzle fast enough. You can fix by either slowing down or instead you can simply raise the temperature. I often print as hot as 240C when I am printing something fast like this.

This "shift" is very common. One of your pulley's slipped. Either X or Y. I can't tell if your shift was in X or Y but you should be able to tell. Tighten the hell out of all 6 setscrews on the 6 pulleys for the axis that slipped. Not just the 4 pulleys on the long belts but also the 2 pulleys on the short belt (the belt to the stepper motor). Also consider marking the pulleys and rods with a marker to see if it shifts again you can tell which one shifted. Also your UM should have come with 12 extra set screws that are silver colored. These screws are better than the black ones that came with the pulleys.

I'd like to see infill done at 300mm/sec but have it slow down for the last 6 seconds to the same speed as the skin. I guess I could write a plugin for that :(

cubic honeycomb. Smart. Yes - of course this would be stronger. PLA is very strong. Many people never do any infill at all. printing takes a loooong time. Your prints may take 5 to 20 hours typically. Anything that saves time is welcome. So straight lines are much faster. The earlier Cura did several infill types including standard honeycomb but it prints much slower (3X maybe?). The current Cura only has the 2 types of infill (one lower than 25%, the other above 25%). Think Legos. They don't need any infill at all - they are hollow and have no honeycomb structure anywhere. Legos are made of ABS. PLA is similarly strong - I suspect ABS is stronger but I don't know.

You can contact Ultimaker support as well but they work M-F on Netherlands time which is 6 hours after east coast and 9 hours after west coast usa so if you are in usa then email might be best or call as early as possible in the morning. There is no photo. To upload a photo you might have to make 5 posts so you can start by replying to this and saying "ok". But you go to the top of this page and click gallery, then you upload the picture, then you go to make a post and click "my media" to add the picture(s). It's good that you started debugging. Everytime you grind the filament you need to pull it out and cut off an inch or so. This way the ground part will be up in the bowden tube and not right at the extruder. 1) Extruder. It sounds like the extruder is working but you can test it by inserting it only a little way into the tube and turning the gear with one hand and fighting the filament with the other hand. The extruder should be able to pull 22 pounds before it starts to grind. If you just grip the filament hard and let it try to pull you hand into the extruder and you can't stop it then that's probably at least 10 pounds which is good enough for most prints. 2) clogs. There are "two" locations you can get a clog. 2a) Nozzle - most likely location with the newer ultimakers. 2b) higher up in the print head. 2c) It might not be a clog - it's possible but unlikely that the filament is stuck on an edge higher up. 2c is easiest to test for and least likely. Just use cutters to shape the tip of the filament to a point before feeding it in. 2b is pretty easy to check. But I would try 2c first. Remove the filament. Then remove the little blue clip where the clear bowden tube goes to the print head. Don't lose it. Then push down on the ring that the clip was holding up and pull quite hard on the tube. It will slide up. Look inside with a flashlight for clogs of filament. Stick some filament in there and see if it feels like it can go almost all the way to the nozzle. 2a - nozzle - most likely the problem. You can have partial clogs or full clogs. They can be caused by dust or wood chips that stick to the filmanent as it feeds. Or if you simply leave the hot end hot for 10 minutes the PLA will slowly "boil" and change it's composition to a blackish brownish gunk that sticks to everything and causes bad clogs. Remove the nozzle by first heating to 200C (as PLA is in the threads by now). Take a wrench and very delicately unscrew the head. don't turn it the wrong way. Don't apply much force at all. Brass is very soft and easy to destroy with a twisting wrench. It's metal so it's kind of strong but you can easily force it to twist into two pieces. After you get the nozzle off, use pliers or tweezers and put it in a flame. Ideally if you have a gas stove, use that. Burn the heck out of all the pla that is left. Don't get it red hot or it will deform but get it hot enough to see the pla burning/boiling away until it's gone. You can test the nozzle with a 3 inch piece of pla - just push it through. If it goes through you are done. If not, start over. If after 3 attempts no luck then you need a thin wire. I use normal household electric wire and I remove a single strand of copper and use that to poke through the hole from the front. I wish I had something slightly thicker though.

Illuminarti has used the UM2. Other people here have one of the first 5 or so, I have played with one up close. Just post your questions here instead. Support is busy helping people who already bought an ultimaker.

How about these? http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=ophuip

That is HORRIBLE stringing in the pyramid. You need more retraction. What does the "7" mean? does it mean 7mm of plastic out of the nozzle? Does it mean 7mm at the extruder motor? Is it some other unit? The extruder should rotate about 1/3 of the way around on each retraction. Per haps the 80mm/sec is the problem. You shouldn't move the extruder faster than around 25mm/sec. Some UMs can reach 40mm/sec but many can't. 25mm/sec is a reasonable "destring speed". Also watch the filament in the bowden tube. When extruding it is in the top of the arc. When retraction occurs you can see the filament at the top of the arc lower to the bottom of the bowden tube. Some filaments never completely stop extruding but I've never seen it as bad as this pyramid! I think the "7" is just the wrong value needed. See this about temp and stringing and note that below a certain temp, Marlin normally will not move the extruder motor. This is to avoid grinding the filament: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

That's good to know! Note that gcodes are explained here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin And note that while M190 and M109 don't move onto the next command until the temperature stabilizes, M140 and M104 move immediately onto the next command and don't wait for the temp to reach the requested value.

I think no one wanted to answer. Sorry. Your question was too easy for you to do it and I was too lazy to find a ruler, walk downstairs and check myself when I was supposed to be working. Plus I don't know how much larger than the opening you want. What obstacles are a problem (switches, screw heads). Are you going to move your steppers outside? You don't need to buy any parts for that (just mount the motors in the same holes but outside). But you do need to reverse the stepper direction either by changing a jumper on the board or inverting x,y bits when you build Marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Lol! :smile: That was New York. I know Americans get Holland, Netherlands, Norway, and Denmark confused so I forgive you for confusing New York and San Francisco :smile: Especially since you got stuck in The Netherlands while half your company was in New York City.

Not good! Sometimes if you overheat pla and don't print for too long it causes a jam in the print head. Maybe you should turn on your heatbed. Walk away and then after 10 minutes start your print. Personally I always set the temperatures in Cura all to 0. This makes it so that Cura doesn't wait and just starts printing when you tell it to. Instead you have to set the temps manually (either with ulticontroller or with Cura printing window).