foehnsturm
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Everything posted by foehnsturm
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@krys, Thank you! Unfortunately there will be no opportunity to throw your money at me or anyone else Instead, you will have to get hold of a 2nd drive train (feeder + hotend, like the UM2+ upgrade kit), print a few parts, follow detailed instructions on how to assemble them and download a customized firmware. So, not the all-in package, but way cheaper and doable for any average UM2 or UM2+ user. -
Version 1.0
2,114 downloads
Dual extrusion, HD glass (0.8 mm nozzle, 0.6 mm layer) and PLA (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer). For design and slicing (except the dual extrusion part) I followed the tutorial for Taulmann t-glase. 5 € LED bike lamp used as light source. -
@DidierKlein, @foerstrum won't work, try foehnsturm I already made some test prints using the 2nd head for sanding. But it will require some more. I'm still a beginner here (it took me 5 prints to realize that, as neosanding needs something to sand, it doesn't work well with toplayers with almost invisible but existing underextrusion)
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Version 1.0
1,525 downloads
I got tired of the old 3D printed lampshades for our self-built LED lighting. So I designed new ones with Ebony woodfill and blue. Dual extrusion print, two parts: bottom (spiralize mode) and top (wood and blue) with a slit to get the cable through. The woodfill seems to have some air in it, tiny holes and crackling sound during printing. UPDATE: I played around with extrusion rate and decided to consider the tiny holes as a feature now -
Really like these covers. That's how they look like after +100 hrs of printing. Never witnessed any curled up filament sticking to the nozzle.
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It's the extrudr stuff andprinted quite well. But the support was more stringy than I expected.
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Knotted Orbit by emmet. GreenTec PLA and PolySupport. With 230°C this was at the lower end of PolySupport's temperature range but it looks like still a little too hot.
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That's what I'm already doing. But over time nozzles start to get dirty during printing and then no wiper will be able to remove this stuff again.
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Version 1.0
1,475 downloads
HD-Glass (PETG) & Flexifil (flexible TPC), magnetic tool changer and some new type of nozzle cover to avoid dragging around carbonized PET junk which tends to stick to the nozzle. Well, without bristles - this would require a 3rd extruder -
Seems to help with PETG & Flexifil. No brown junk anywhere.
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First test, benchy scaled down to 50%. Everything looks clean afterwards. If it works with PET, I will try to get a batch manufactured. Intended price target: some 25 € for 5 covers and 2 mounting brackets
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One, probably Mac related, GUI issue: Layer preview of merged dual extrusion models doesn't work completely. I can only see the grey outline, the brim and tiny indications of the layers. When ungrouped everything works fine.
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True, a little more clearance will help. Anyway, I think it's not a big issue with single extrusion printing if the hole is cut well. A possible wiping move is a different story as the wiping blade will catch the plastic and drag it over the nozzle tip an that edge onto the silicone surface where it will fall down.
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I'm waiting for some silicone sheet material now. Casting seems possible but the critical thing is the tiny hole around the nozzle. You need a perfect edge there. Otherwise some material can make its way between the sock and the nozzle, especially after dual extrusion wiping moves. So I ordered 2 to 4 mm hollow punches as well.
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For now just 2K silicone, shore 45 A. Won't withstand the temperature forever I suppose. Also, a little less soft material would be nice.
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Finally, rev 9 looks promising. The press fit in the fan bracket stills needs some fine tuning.
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There's one point with the new E3D stuff which I found interesting: Preventing material buildup on the nozzle surface. I recently did some dual extrusion prints with PETG and while the wiper is working flawlessly this stuff sometimes sticks to the nozzle, carbonizes and then drops down at some time. First try wasn't that bad, so rev1 is printing the mold for rev2 now.
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Me too, was hoping it would just use The Force.
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Still under discussion ... Another test: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/4900-how-small-can-we-go
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Version 1.0
1,611 downloads
Benchy, scaled down to 50%, UM2+ with magnetic tool changer, no post processing -
Recently, we discovered a small glitch in our firmware's e-axis calculation after a tool change. So, this is the result after bug fixing.
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https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/4602-another-vertebrae-magnetic-tool-changer-hd-glass-recreus-filaflex
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Version 1.0
1,313 downloads
Printed with the magnetic tool changer, 0.4 nozzle for HD Glass, 0.6 race nozzle & Machtless block for Filaflex. Scaled down a little to print a longer section. Don't be afraid, I won't print an entire spine -
Filaflex from Recreus is 82A and prints quite well a 0.6 mm nozzle (especially swordiff race nozzles). The real acid test would be trying a 0.4 mm race nozzle because with a standard 0.4 mm I found it almost impossible to print reliably. But I didn't take the plunge so far.
