nallath

The digitizer sucks. I've not seen any scan that I would consider okay. You get about the same results from a kinect, but way slower. The next engine is kinda slow, mostly because of the line lasers, which simply take tons of time.

This is only theoretically the case. For all practical intents and purposes you will not be able to do this (usually due to processing / memory /time issues). The david linescanner is 2200 euro all inclusive.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0180/7671/products/collected_scans_view_71ef0987-2f30-427b-9456-6209f9fe321d_grande.jpg?v=1400495790%20 For reference sake; Kinect has a accuracy of +-7 (!) mm. Structured light sensors tend to have about +- 0.1-0.2 mm accuracy. The fuel 3D has potential; It uses a combination of 'Photometric stereo' (Lighting a object from different directions, see how intensity changes and use that to calculate the orientation of the surface (also known as the normal)) combined with 'standard' stereo feature matching.

Your best bet at the moment is the david SLS scanner (unless you want to spend 15k on a scanner).

We didn't write the build steps for OSX, someone from the comunity did. We try to stay clear from developing on osX because they seem to hate developers.

Groot probleem is ook dat kinderen groeien en je reparaties / modificaties alleen door een door de verzekering goedgekeurde reperateur mag laten doen. Daardoor gebeurd het vaak dat die kinderen met slecht passende hulpmiddelen zitten. Dit is dus echt niet alleen in america een probleem (al is het daar een veel groter probleem natuurlijk vanwege hun healthcare model)

Probably still not good enough.

You will not be able to get good scans of that belt. The Kinect does not have enough accuracy. It's okay-ish if you want to scan a person (and scale it, because you notice mistakes less).

Thinner layers. The roughness & stringing at the bottom is unavoidable. You will need to clean up the object.

It should take a while, but it is possible. A pretty good alternative is to cut the box up in pieces and glue the pieces together (and smooth em with acetone afterwards). A university in the Netherlands used PLA pieces as a mold for fibreglass for a car.

I've got Cura 14.09 and it doesn't have those weird lines (atleast not with default settings).

Click the checkbox

Select the invert axis option?

Well... 1.75 is not quite possible. You would need to modify the machine. It will -not- do it out of the box.

I get 90% without any modifications to the UM2. Usually just the standard settings and silver/grey PLA.

Because diagonal lines are faster on an Ultimaker.

That could technically also be possible in firmware

The tiny diagonal movements are in order to create a surface where the next layer can lean on. It does that for curved surfaces. If you don't your surface quality will suffer.

https://www.google.com/search?channel=fs&q=dwg&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gfe_rd=cr&ei=xndjVNzLApH4-gaWpIG4CQ#safe=off&channel=fs&q=dwg+to+stl+online First three hits give you conversion tools (either online or downloadable). Cura doesn't support .dwg files.

Well, you could still do that with the machine firmware.

The ticking isn't someting to be worried about. Its basicly the sound your stepper (the motor pushing the material in) makes when it's not able to deliver enough power. If I have to make a guess, the fillament got stuck before it could enter the tube. Try bending it a bit more flat (it's usually a bit rounded because its on a spool) and try again.

It can have something to do with static discharges. If I recall correctly, this is why we added nylon screws and a protection plate to the controller for the UMO+. So if you want to prevent this in the future, have a look at what we did there.

Converting it to a variable only makes sense if you want to change the variable at runtime (eg; Do you want your user to be able to change the direction of the Z without recompiling the firmware?)

I'm not aware of any packaging problems these days. We have improved it significantly, but I don't know the exact state / quality of it at this moment. We have a reseller (and production site) in america these days. This should improve the support time / shipping time / cost. There is no official upgrade to get dual extrusion working. On the final part; If you have a lot of experience with building printers yourself, you might be better served with an UMO+. They tend to need more tweaking but my personal experience is that it's easier to tweak the UMO+ compared to the UM2 (although some people swear by the UM2, so it could also be a personal preference thing)

Shipping wise it would probably be about the same. You should check between igo3d (German reseller) and the UM website. Note that the UM website only adds the VAT at the end of the process.