nallath

It's not only asthetic a problem, it will very soon be a problem for your entire hotend. Degrading / burning PLA does not improve your print quality So, remove the PLA as soon as possible, and check if everything is tightly screwed.

I made a prototype of this 12-14 months ago. It worked pretty decent on an Ultimaker.

Ultimaker original plus. Heated bed kit.

oh and it needs to be somewhat sturdy too.

Nice to see that all the parts we had around the office helped you guys

The engine isn't multithreaded. So that shouldn't be a problem.

In princiepe heeft cura een flink deel van deze info dmv de tooltips.

Verander je infil; Sommige waardes aan de infil geven dit resultaat.

Heb je al eens geprobeerd met je heated bed uit te printen (met tape er op). Je print ziet er redelijk uit alsof het materiaal uitgezakt is. Kan je ook dubbel checken of je wel op +-200-220 graden print?

Yes, thats the GUI. The slicing is done by the CuraEngine, which is in a separate project (and is written in c++). You can find it at https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine

Interesting, although it doesn't really add anything to the printer. I'm greatly in favour of the 'if you stick two thing together, it should improve both camp'. I think this only saves you a camera mount.

What Cura did you download? The engine or the GUI?

Doubtfull if it does. They power their cardrige with 12 volt, so they probably power their motors with the same voltage. Increasing the voltage is the only thing that would speed it up.

PLA is vochtgevoellig (eg; Hygroscopisch). Als het te nat is krijg je last van een effect wat bij ons toepasselijk 'schurft' genoemd word. Het water wat in het PLA zit, verdampt bij het printen, waardoor je een soort open gesprongen belletjes krijgt. We zijn op dit moment bezig om specifiek materialen beter te testen (en dus ook te verbeteren).

Een vrij smerige hack is overigens om zelf een frankenstein code te maken. Hak in een 3D modeling pakket het object op in stukken. Slice ieder stuk los met de juiste settings & plak de g-code handmatig aan elkaar. Kans dat het fout gaat is wel flink veel groter. Maar in princiepe zou dit moeten werken (dit is ook hoe mensen eerst dual extrusion prints deden).

The 'old' cura was able to do this when skeinforge was still used as slicer. This slicer had a ton of functions, but it had a horrible codebase (complete mess, so almost impossible to improve). As a result, daid developed his own slicing software, aptly called the cura engine. This slicer doesn't support variable layer heights. There are no plugins that can fix this.

Dat is precies de brander die ik ook gebruik Vind je trouwens het resultaat van de hitte of van de olie beter?

Ja het komt. Ooit. In princiepe is het niet heel moeilijk, maar vanwege de huidige opzet van de slicing engine heeft het nog best wat complexiteit.

As far as I'm aware, the info is old. I don't think aerogels have been considered as heat guard. On the rock solid side, it really, really depends what you want. Multiple materials? Multiple colors? Is fixing the model afterwards okay? Do you mind if a print can fail because of a cold second nozzle (I've had prints tipped over by the cold hot end)? That being said; There is no technological reason why this isn't there yet. But there are so many points of failure and a whole range of posibilities on how to fix them. Its a 'simple' matter of finding a set of configurations / options that fixes these problems (The problem overlaps with software (Oozeshield, wipetower, heat / cool down procedure, calibration), hardware (raising hotends, plugging them to prevent ooze, switchable hotends, etc) and material (Make material ooze less, change material so it prints better, etc).

Actually with PLA friction is a problem. This is mostly why full metal hotends don't play well with PLA (but do work for ABS)

If I hear those stories, I'm really glad Ultimaker has an awesome company culture. Pfew.

Gas soldeerbout! Die dingen kosten een paar tientjes, maar hebben een fantastische nozzle waar hete lucht uit komt. Ik ben overigens een groot fan van PVC lijm. Probeer zo dun mogelijke te gebruiken. Coat je printje met het spul en het is gelijk een stuk steviger en heeft een water (en lucht) dichte coat. Laat zich ook nog eens prima opschuren ook.

Like I said before; I only have a limited grasp of the problem. I do know that they did some of the things you suggested, but apparently they are not sufficient (Because if they were, we wouldn't be having this topic ). I do know that one of the concerns is that because the UM2 is much much less a DIY machine, you will need to test your upgrades a lot more (which can easily double or triple the development process). That's why I still recommend the UM original for tech savy users, or those who want to achieve the bleeding edge.

We tried making an omelette on a heated bed once. Tastes absolutely disgusting.

What Blizz said. Oh and what dim3nsioneer said Some more in depth stuff on the heat problem; The warmth with a extra head on a stand by temp (say 170 ish) will increase the temperature of all parts in the head. From what I understood is that a so called heat break is required. If the temperature above the heat brake goes over the glass transition temp, you have a problem. With one hot end powered, you remain well under that temperature. With two, you go slightly over it. And yes, this will probably work when not using PLA (say ABS). But as mentioned before; we're still stuck with a lot of people using PLA, so it has to work for them. If we don't it will cost a boatload of support question and disappointment (and disappointment with people who already spent money is worse imho).