nallath

Don't discount the gardening equipment just yet. We might go into some kitchen appliances aswell.

I cannot explain this well with only using words, but basicly your problem is self occlusion.

Or you only run the slicing on the rasp-pi. There is no real reason to also run the GUI on the rasp - pi right?

Technically speaking, cura is already threaded because the GUI and the engine are separate processes (and therefore threads). The actual toolpath generation is the most expensive step and this will be the hardest part to do so. I believe it should be possible to do the support structured in a separate thread. The main reason why this isn't done is because it adds a whole lot of complexity (and makes debugging way, way harder).

Not quite. The same problem occurs with the makerbot digitizer. Only if you sweep the laser (and rotate the platform) will you get the largest scanned area.

It is accurate, as that's the target we aim for. What some people here want is the ability to use multiple nozzle sizes, for which two hot ends is a solution. Swappable hot-ends could also be a solution for this. We are not developing the dual extrusion with multiple nozzle sizes as main goal. We're developing it so you can print multiple colors at the same time, use it for solvable support material, etc.

We know; but the point is that it must be able to heat both heads at the same time (or at least; have one at 210 and one at it's standby temp of ~180) and still be able to print. As most of our users print with PLA, this must work with PLA. Due to a whole slew of problems; we've not been able to get this to work reliably. Getting one hot-end to work and the other being stand by is reasonably easy.

First off, apologies for not replying the first time, it slipped through my nodification list. I'm a software engineer, so I really can't help you that well with in-depth hardware issues. That being said; I believe the sensors that we used are speced for 0 to 400 degrees, probably because it's a off the shelf part that we buy. You are correct in the observation that we limit the temperature to 260 in our firmware, due to the teflon parts not being able to withstand temps of above 260. The PID regulator should try to keep the temperature at 260 if you tell it to do so, but it will fluctuate a bit around that temperature, it's quite possible that it will be a bit above that for some time when the temperature is still settling in. If you sensor failed, I can offer no further advice then to contact support or use the info on Github.

There is room in the head for another extruder. That doesn't mean it works if you simply slap another one in. That's exactly the (naive) mistake we made.

No worries; The R&D team is fully staffed with tinkerers. The Original has a warm spot on our heart (and it's a great platform to test improvements!.

Print 10 of these at once. This will drasticly increase the result.

There are people working on this, it's not like this is a project that isn't getting enough love.

I stand corrected then. But all dual extrusion printed parts you saw were made with an Original. We don't have a working setup with the UM2.

If I don't vote, I might get fired

@Dim3nsioneer: Yup. There are reasons why it was announced (and as far as I can tell, it was only announced in a single youtube comment, but thats besides the point) and why it's not released, but what has happened is in the past. Nothing we do will change that. Simply put; don't expect it soon. I'm quite against shipping a poor product (do note; I'm ' just' a software engineer, it's not my call) and I don't think it's smart to move resources from other equally or even more important projects to dual extrusion, just because a vague promise was made quite a while ago. I do understand that this sucks and I agree. This isn't a nice situation for anyone. But as far as drawing lines in the sand; If we changed our priorities every time someone was disappointed with the speed of things, we would not win any business either.

Yes, but it will probably ruin your nozzle. The teflon part in the nozzle should not be heated above 260, as from that point it will start to degrade rapidly.

It's one of the better I've seen, but it still has some flaws. I do think that this model is relatively easy to print with dual extrusion. If there is bridging between two colors, it tends to go quite worse.

Water tight vases are easily done; Simply cheat and use PVC glue to coat em.

Also, nice print. Care to show the results when it's done?

Cura kan je wel g-code inladen hoor.

I'm not part of support, but me (and most people of the community here) can help you if you post pictures of you results and can write what you did. 3D printing is far from a one push solution. There is still tinkering & knowledge required to get the most out of machines.

WIthout any indication of what the model is, it's hard to say whats going on. Could be that it's a bug.

A lot of things happend, which we've tried to be clear about (See this topic, and others). So in that regard, the technical problems are your concern; If they are not fixed, you won't have a good product. If you really, really want dual extrusion, buy the original (as the original is way more suited for experimentation & modding anyway). On the topic of distance; I've yet to see a consumer grade printer that does dual extrusion well.

weeelll... I can settle for 6. Damn awesome.

Ah, right, that makes sense. If your good with some CAD software, you could make the model hollow, which should force cura not to fill those parts. You could also try to play with the fix-horrible settings a bit, might be that it removes the weird results due to the slits.