peetersm

glad your UM2 is working so good. and I agree that printing slower normally gives better quality on surfaces. I bet you'll have a different opinion about test prints if you should ever find yourself trying to dial in settings to get a better print quality for a certain model. Test prints use less plastic and in a short amount of time (low print time) they let you focus on the behavior you're trying to correct. My printer has been down for a while waiting for replacement parts but I'm hoping to get it running again soon. I think next I will try printing slower than 50mm/s and explore modifying the z speeds.

This is where I got the file from, has anyone else printed the "Fine Positive features" file? https://www.youmagine.com/designs/make-2015-3d-printer-shoot-out-test-geometries

wow, it was FINALLY posted there! Looks like they put that up 7 days ago (same day I made this post?) Glad that an official version has been published, people have been asking for that for quite a while.

Thanks looking at the videos! About the infill. The cave certainly did not need the high infill, but some of the prints have big flat surfaces that we needed to be smooth, I usually would use Layer height = 0.2mm top bottom thickness = 0.8mm infill = 17-20% I have not had good luck getting flat tops with less infill.

Maybe check the counter-sunk bolts that hold the Heated bed PCB (1155) down and make sure they are all level and not pushing the glass up...the glass should be 100% flush on the surface of the bed. I had to counter sink all mine on my 1st UMO+ kit, these could be causing trouble. this thread talks about a similar issue on UM2 and has helpful photos of what to look for. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8102-warped-glass-bed-um2/?hl=%2Bcounter+%2Bsink&do=findComment&comment=76038

HI, as many have mentioned there is no complete list of parts for the UMO+ kit this makes taking inventory before starting to build very difficult. Well wait no longer! I have made one for myself and am happy to share a completely homemade, unofficial, non-legally binding, use at you own risk version. :smile: I am doing Build Event Workshops for schools and organization in my area and needed a quick way to inventory the kits when they come in to be sure I can get any missing parts PRIOR to the build event. I can't be running a work shop and have to keep running to the store to get missing parts. so This file is a sort-able list of all the parts needed for the UMO+ kit. I started with the old UMO BOM file form git hub and I've tried to update the part numbers where possible and include the number of parts needed from counting up the parts needed during assembly, the last column is the number of part that are printed on the bags. I have added my own column called "bag #" and this is the best way to sort it while checking total parts list since these are how the parts are grouped while unpacking the box. Link the BOM (unofficial version) https://www.dropbox.com/s/x22wkroo0ieqcdb/Ultimaker%2B%20BOM.xls?dl=0 Link to hand scribble corrected UMO+ assembly manual v2.0 (Unofficial V2.2) https://www.dropbox.com/s/bll36ocfoev1yrq/UM%2B%20assembly%20manual_mark%20notees_v2.2.pdf?dl=0

OK I was able to greatly reduce the stringing by setting Minimal extrusion before retracting = 0 These pictures show the blobs I think are due to retractions, current settings: FINE FEATURES TEST PRINT layer height 0.2mm shell 0.8mm fill 20% print speed 50mm/s temp 200 retract speed 35mm/s retract distance 5.5mm travel speed 250mm/s retract-Minimal travel 1.5mm retract-enable comb=off retract-minimal extrusion before retracting 0mm retract-zhop 0mm

thanks. I agree the speed test (1st photo) is layer change blobs, i think i need to re-read this http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/02/the-myth-of-z-speed/ but the 2nd one is retraction blobs for sure, those towers should be squares. the stringing is not worrying me too much since it only starts when the tips are really small. but even down on the base you can see large spots where the retraction happened.

Hi, I am having some trouble getting rid of retraction blobs. UM+ cura 15.02.1 , colorFabb PLA/PHA....default retract settings (tried both z-hop on and off) Based on my speed print I can see the blobs get larger the faster I print. But on these other two photos I think I am being conservative but still getting a lot of retraction blobs. Should I be tweaking the default settings, or try printing at 20mm/s? SPEED PRINT layer height 0.25mm shell 0.4mm fill 0% print speed 30mm/s all to 100mm/s temp 190 retract speed 40mm/s retract distance 4.5mm travel speed 150mm/s FINE FEATURES TEST PRINT layer height 0.2mm shell 0.8mm fill 20% print speed 50mm/s temp 200 retract speed 40mm/s retract distance 4.5mm travel speed 150mm/s BALL PRINT layer height 0.1mm shell 0.8mm fill 20% print speed 60mm/s temp 200 retract speed 40mm/s retract distance 4.5mm travel speed 150mm/s

Moudi good eyes. I have included your notes into my latest annotated and corrected version of the 2.0 assembly instructions. NOTE: Belt springs installation STILL NOT DOCUMENTED https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39983297/UM%2B%20assembly%20manual_mark%20notees_v2.2.pdf This is the version I will be using for now, till a new one comes out from UM or I add more notes to this one.

here's a link to a local cable access news show. We have two printers Ultimaker Original and a MakerGear M2..soon to be adding an Ultimaker Original+ to the line up...there is a shot of the UM at the end. Enjoy! http://www.publicmedianet.org/blog/k12-comstock3d

Thanks korneel!

Hi, I just got a recent UM+ kit and the heated bed terminal block is a little different from my previous kit. The directions don't seem to reflect this change,,, How are these used? how do I make sure the connection is secure? (see photo)

during assembly can you share any tips you have on getting the set screws for the timing pulleys to line up just right? By "just right" I mean so that when you use the calibration sticks you can see all 4 of the set screws at once. (with both X and Y directions there are 8 set screws in total to adjust) What I have been doing: 1. (per assembly manual) leaving all the pulley's set screws loose while you are roughing in the XY frame and extrusion head. 2. make the timing belts as loose as possible by removing wooden part C and opening the slider block belt clamps. 3. placing the calibration sticks....seeing which pulleys have visible set screws and tighten the visible set screws.(maybe only 1 of the 4 depending on luck) 4. remove the calib-sticks, then move the head until one of the non-visible set screws comes into view, then try to rotate that pulley to match the tightened one. This is difficult since even now the belts are a bit snug, so I often need to use the 2mm driver in the set screw to force the pulley to jump some teeth in the timing belt until I can get the pulley matched up, then tighten that pulley's set screw. 5. repeat until all 4 set screws are lined up, then repeat the the other 4 in the other direction. while repeating steps 4&5 up you must be careful the extrusion head does not fall out of the loose slider blocks. SO is there anything I can do earlier in this process to help? like maybe line up the two pulley's set screws on the 1st axis and tighten them before adding the opposite 2nd axis? and maybe lining them up at that time too? will that save me any fussing later, or does adding the extrusion head move things around so much that tightening the timing pulleys really needs to wait until later as the assembly manual suggest. thanks for any helping hints you might share.

Are the new filament rolls 3.00mm or 2.85mm ? I have had horrible issues with some PLA vendors rolls that are 3.00mm causing friction in the Bowden tube, I basically had to toss them. I only use 2.85mm filament now. It actually takes some searching to find 2.85mm filament , but it's worth it. ColorFabb makes it and I have pretty much migrated exclusively to their PLA. ultimaker brand is also 2.85mm but the colors may not be consistent from roll to roll and the price is usually much more per Kg than colorFabb

Rigs is right you can open with a basic text editing program and see the layers identified with comments like ;layer 0 Etc But the problem with just removing the text for the first 4 layers would be that the Z height would be off for the rest of the print. Better to use cura advanced settings and enter the amount of mm you want removed from the bottom "cut off object bottom" of the model and generate your gcode that way.

i'll add a second note the the "jonny come lately" posts. For almost 2 years now I've been using 3 different brands of printers with a K-6 building and the Ultimaker original is by far the best (vs. type A machines and MakerGear M2), we restricted our search to only open source printers so Afina would not have made the cut. PLA is what you want to use where there are kids around and you do not have a fume hood. I use openSCAD with the kids it's great. more about "why Ultimaker" can be found here: www.comstockps.org/3dprint To sum up, the Ultimaker printers strike a perfect balance between reliability, durability and cost. They meet the most important selection criteria (for schools) IMHO: 1. Low downtime and everything end user serviceable. (When the printer is down no one is happy.) 2. Precision and accuracy (To insure that all kids get a good print of their model, the 1st model should be just as nice as the 500th model) 3. Speed and Build Volume (When printing for a class of over 25 kids, you need to print several objects at a time. The 8x8x8inch build volume allows for that.) 4. PLA printing (non-toxic fumes and bio-degradable) 5. Open Source (No limits to student’s involvement and depth or tinkering.)

I doubt (hope) that is not the plan, they just released the ultimaker original plus. and this is their flagship hackers model, and it's way better priced! The UM2 prices are too high for schools and people who want an amazing printer base they can do mods on. I am strating to run build events for schools where we will assemble the kits and train them how to use them and I can tell you if the cost was another $1k we would not be able to reach as many schools. Also if one of the UM2 was our only option we would lose out on an "openness factor" that is appealing to education.

I love the UMO+ and the kit, just some feedback about the assemble manual. looking over the UMO+ Version 2 English assembly instructions, I see several items were corrected(yeah! thanks) but some got missed and a few new things where mixed up. this is my (possibly not complete list) of things that should be fixed in the next revision: 1. Step and section labels are off due to skipped section increment going from Z-Stage (6.4) to Feeder (should be 6.5 but continues 6.4, all other steps after this are off too, just compare to table of contents so see what I mean). AND REPEAT of step 6.4.7 (Note: there is no Step 6.4.6 in section 6.4) the progression is NOW 6.4.4. Step 4: finishing the Z stage assembly 6.4.5. Step 6: installing the Z stage in the machine 6.4.6. Step 7: grease it up 6.4.7. Step 8: Aligning the Z-stage 6.4.7. Step 1: drive mechanism main body assembly 6.4.8. Step 2: drive bolt assembly the progression SHOULD BE 6.4.4. Step 4: finishing the Z stage assembly 6.4.5. Step 6: installing the Z stage in the machine 6.4.6. Step 7: grease it up 6.4.7. Step 8: Aligning the Z-stage 6.5.1. Step 1: drive mechanism main body assembly 6.5.2. Step 2: drive bolt assembly ...etc fixing the rest of the steps...... 2. page 63 - 6.4.3. Step 3: Connecting the PCB to the Baseplate fix parts list - ADD M3x10mm(1202) X2 3. Page 73 - (should be 6.5.1) 6.4.7. Step 1: drive mechanism main body assembly fix parts list - 3 lock nuts are needed not 2 4. page 75 - image 90 - the pink highlight boxes are not aligned, they used to correctly highlight the 25mm bolts now they are in the air. 5. page 96 - (should be 6.7.3) 6.6.3. Step 3: checking and aligning the top-Z limit switch step #11 - I think should reference image 1 ..not image 110. 6. page 111 - last page..still says English version 1 also if I could ask for the following changes to the V3 1. total parts list in the front, since this would help A LOT since people could run out to the store to buy the missing parts all at once. As it is now.... you start running out of parts about 80% done, go get those parts, start at it again and run out in a different place....kind takes some wind out of your sails to have to go to the store more than the usual 3 times. 2. image 52 should have the hot end rotated 180deg, since as shown this is not the correct final orientation. (image 54&55 perfect) 3. image 53 should have the hot end rotated 90deg, since as shown this is not the correct final orientation. (image 54&55 perfect)

about the tentioners, on the UM+ there is no "inside" to the slider blocks, so you would need to put them on the outside of the belt just like any other tentioner printed from youmagine. I also use the microwave V2 model from here (they are great): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/microwave about the cable clamp. I just put mine on the side to hold the heated bed cables as shown in this image: https://ultimaker.com/img/ultimaker_original/quality1.jpg I don't think it's super important to have that clamp...it's not in the assemble notes for the UM+ the sticks are nice, and hopefully they aligned it enough for you to use it for now. I never go sticks with my original and have been using these wonderfull things ever since: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26684 oh and I noticed this too (never used it) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-axis-alignment-tool

I like using Pronterface, and just using the Z-home and Z +1 buttons to control the head to move up and down while I move the head around by hand. Since the hot bed has 3 screws, -- I move the head to the right front and z-home, then adjust the front right screw with the paper method. -- Then use Z + 1 to lower the bed and I move the head to the left front and z-home, then adjust the front left screw with the paper method, -- Then use Z + 1 to lower the bed and I move the head to the middle back and z-home, then adjust the middle back screw with the paper method -- then repeating just to check and also checking back corners and middle This way I can move the head all around and come back to points if I need to. I do this when the head is cold. and I do not use Pronterface to move the X or Y since this would cause the steppers to engage and I would have a hard time moving the print head around. http://www.pronterface.com/

sorry for the long delay, here is a photo of the springs. I made a few attempts to install them on the assembled belts, but gave up. I think the only way I could get these one would have been to put them in place when I was putting the belts and rods on in the fist place.

Here's a pic from my UMO+ there a lot of wires to manage. I eventually did get they tidied up and barely fit the wooden cover on.

I had no idea what those springs were for. Thanks, I'll give them a try.

I too was alarmed by the amount of force needed. I used an exacto knife to bevel the the hole a tiny bit and then placed the gear on the table and PUSHED the motor down.