peetersm

I'm not sure why UM does not sell this spare part. @sandervg Does anyone know why or when they will offer it. Or where to get one? The same part for the UMO looks like the same size but clearly states in the description - "40W 18V heater cartridge. Not compatible with the Ultimaker Original+"

Yes ands No. Yes, I have received new rolls (4 different times now) that's why I've seen 8 rolls total. No, none of them are better, even the "different batch" rolls I just got. After my 3rd bad batch I asked if they could send me a different color of UM plastic than the Silver since seem like the silver is showing this issue the most OR a different brand like ColorFabb which is top shelf. The responce was that Silver was the only color they can send and ColorFabb was not a brand they carry. (FYI- this was US support fbrc8 and they have been very fast to respond each time, very helpfull and polite, they are shipping my rolls with return lables so I am not out any money per se just time, sending the defective rolls back each time) After the 4th bad batch they said they were going to see what they can do. So I'm not sure what the next step is at the moment. @ultiarjan I agree that they could save shipping costs and time if they used the test I have shown in my video. It is a simple test and works everytime showing the defect in the filament. I'm sure this is a wide spread issue. I would bet that all spools from batchs 150508b04-xxx and 150720a02-xxx and in between are all bad.

I'm printing at 190C which is a good temp for ColorFabb PLA/PHA. I have not figured it out yet. :-( but I did print one of the towers on another UMO+ at work and it came out smooth all the way up (same gcode actually!) So I know it's something with my machine. I have not had more time to trouble shoot but hope to this weekend. And like you say the banding is so regular and is effected my the layer time that I think it's something about the extuder going at the slow speed.

So sad, to hear this news. Glad you'll get a few days to say good bye.

so far I have only noticed this one thread not sending me notes, but I have not been scowering the forums for other cases of missed notification. (also I have not seen the notification that usually happened from my own posts) https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17102-why-did-the-filament-break

I have never seen this with ANY other brand, but I have only used ColorFabb, Faberdasry and Diamond Age. I got my 4th batch of replacement spools today, same issue, so here's the part numbers I've seen so far: UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 UM-7021b075 150720a02-240 UM-7021b075 150720a02-254 here's what they look like:

Notification problems. just want to report that I was quoted in a thread I was following and I did not get either a note that I was quoted OR a notice of new unread posts. This is both on the web page notification area and in emails. I noticed it today when scrolling though the fourms view with the "unread" filter,,so at least that works. :-)

based on the results, i think its the extruder or filament since the banding changes based on layer size. does this seem right? i think i can rule out the z screw and bed assembly.

yeah recheck the filament is a good idea. all the colorFabb I have is in the 2.75 to 2.80 range

About over hangs. On my UMO/UMO+ Try to have the over hang face the single fan. over hangs on the down wind side always look a little droopy. Sometimes this is not possible thou. And maybe go cooler, most of my colorFabb prints great at 190C. I am actually planning on opening my 1st box of colorFabb standard white today. So this post is great timing.

You can use pronterface to see the firmware current max retractions acceleration with the M501 command. Then you can issue M203 amd M201 commands to change it. I tried asking about the default setting bing too low here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16201-is-the-umo-firmware-1502-maximum-feedrates-for-e-too-low But never got any replies, but that post shows what you should see. Don't forget to save your firmware settings after you change them you have to use a M500, otherwise reboot the printer and your adjustments will go away, sometimes this is what you want.

I hope someone can tell me I'm over thinking this and there is a simpler explaination. anyway, here's what I have today. so I'm thinking the zone of around 20mm/sec print speed is the trouble zone for my printer. Here's photo showing some data also interesing feature that the period of the banding seems to change. I've also included what I calculated the adjusted print speeds to be at each section (based on the 4 second minimum layer speed setting I am using). SO I tried re-printing one of my early tests at 20mm/s to see if I could make this happen to a previously nice print. here's a photo, same settings just one was at 20mm/s and the original one at 40mm/s. Looks like I can make this happen by printing anything around the 20mm/s speed. Looks like the z-bands period is smaller than a complete revolution since the z scar shows the bands not matching up.

update - (still baffled) here's a photo of test prints showing (i think) the periodic banding at certain print speeds. I think am seeing a relationship between the the appearance of banding and print speed. What do you think? The two that were printed at 0.8mm wall are showing pronounced banding on diameters in the range 9mm-5mm while the tower printed at 1.2mm wall is showing banding on the range 7mm-3mm. I'm explaing this shift by the fact that the setting for "Minimal layer time=4seconds" on the 1.2mm wall print would slow down later than the print done at 0.8mm wall so the banding would show up higher. I did print the basic cylinder on two other UMO+ machines and they look good. If anyone wants to give is a rip on thier machine I have uploaded the STL files and openSCAD code here. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cylinder-tower-test-print-customizable (edit - applying belt tentioners did not effect this issue, but I have some nice sounding belts now, pling pling) I'm grapsing at straws now...I'm not sure what to do next. I do think 3 of my 4 x-y blets are a bit looser than the tightest one, maybe I'll print some belt tighteners and see if that changes anything.

thanks! for the help. @pm_dude , i did get the order wrong on the descriptions. I am using the heated bed but only at about 27C to make up for cold room. I am using blue tape for sticking to the bed. The temp seems fine drifting +-3 degrees and mostly when the fan comes on. @Remy - I tryied 1.2wall and still had some issues. Also see photo of the inside the the 0.8 wall print the banding is on the inside too. this pic is 0.4 wall, 0.8 wall, 1.2 wall I am starting to think it might be time or speed related since the band get father appart at the tops of these cone shapes. and the large diameter looks good, these cone shapes were both at 0.8 wall

Recently my UMO+ is showing very periodic Z banding whenever I print with infill. Please help me figure out what has changed and/or what I should try to get smooth prints again. This is a recent development with my printer. Ultimaker Original Plus, CURA 15.04.2, 14mm diameter test cylinder, ColorFabb PLA/PHA Cylinder on the right: layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 0.8 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = .6 fill_density = 17 print_speed = 40 print_temperature = 190 The cyinder on the left: layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 0.4 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = .6 fill_density = 0 print_speed = 40 print_temperature = 190

Well it's two machines (same issue) so really it's only been 3 attempts. But today (on my 4th re-ship) I asked for a different color or brand of plastic and they said it has to be silver, but that a new batch is in and they are going to be sending me 2 new rolls of that. (so that 8 rolls I've sent back) I'll keep you posted if the new batch looks better. At least I know how to test it and don't have to put it in my printer. As frustrating as it is to have to keep sending it back I am getting great support from the US support partner fabrc8. LOVE those guys!!!!! also I've got plenty of ColorFabb so I'm not at a printing stand still. :-)

I am having the exact same issue, and I'm on my 6th returned spool from UM support, all bad so far. This is a summary of what everyone has been saying: 1. PLA off the roll seems fine, I can usually print long print jobs. 2. Every day the PLA breaks at the point it's entering the extruder and has a very brittle area around this. 3. Once the PLA is "straightened" for a while it become brittle and break easily. here's a video showing my testing method and results. SO far the batch numbers I have been sent that are "bad" are: UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 I have read before that UM changes sources for their PLA from time to time, I think they are buying from a new source that is sub-par with the quality we've all come to take for granted. The bad stuff is shrink wrapped with a desiccant pack inside. I got some silver rolls from them early this year(2015) with that was not shrink wrapped, it's great.

Using it with my UMO+ , just for running jobs off the sd card and making movies. Hoping to figure out how to use more features, logging, cura, etc and make improvements like showing the full name of files on the SD card and not just 8.3 truncated file names.

Are you including scaling in your " change settings " test? Scaling is the laggyiest adjustment for me.

Yeah for $6 I got a really nice plastic lazy susan at the local store and just put the spool on its side, works great.

I'm so so about the heated bed, I only use it in the winter and just to get it to room temp 25-27 C. I don't print on glass and pva glue and 70C , I still use blue tape. I tried using the heated bed on my M2 and got poor results a lot of edge curling (known issues with heated beds) , also when I am trying to print a lot of items I don't want to wait for cool down to remove items and start another job. I suppose the UM heated bed might be better than the M2 but I'm content to stick with what works really well for me. But I do like the new lead screw and the metal bed, 3 point leveling system. If those are big selling points maybe it's worth it. But on my UMO I'm happy to use it as is. I am very happy with the UMO+ It has the new cuircuit borad with no fan! which I love. I've had to replace and fuss with my UMO board fan too many times. Also I love the pt100 since I have issues on the UMO with the temp reading going crazy from fan PWM signal interfereing with the temp readings. Honestly I think the UMO+ is the best value, since the um2 family all need so much TLC, and for a lot more money. But if you need the dimensions of the extend I understand that choice. The only thing I've been really wanting to do with my UMO+ is add a second hot end fan, or do a shroud since the one side fan can make lopsided prints.

Depending on how fast you're printing I would go even lower, to get the turck strigning to go away. My "high quality settings" are: 0.1 layer 1.2 shells 30mm/s 190-200 degrees (depending on the color I am using, I print my dutch orange at 190) NOTE - in the winter I will print 1st layers anywhere from 210-220 and heat the bed to 27 (with blue tape) general settings for colorfab 0.2 layer 0.8 shells 50mm/s still using 190-200 degrees (depending on the color I am using)

sounds great, but if "the New" is part of the name shouldn't it be listed as "15.06.x the new cura(BETA)" since once it's not in Beta and (just picking a number) The New Cura 15.12.1 is an official stable release, then users might need to see the distinction between the old and new? Maybe you are saying this distinction is not a concern of the group.

I have an annotated and corrected version of the manual here that I use in the UMO+ Build workshops that I run. I will upload my V2.3 noted manual soon. I agree it would be nice if the manual was updated and accurate. see this post for link to manual https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10704-umo-assembly-instruction-v2-corrections#reply-101604 looks like the URL did not work going to the relpy I wanted but goes to the top , here is the link dropbox link to PDF

This is much more clear and should help a lot. thanks!! What was the meeting's verdict about how to help distinguish between the "New" and "Legacy"? Since these two are so different I think it would be worth making this easy to figure out too, especially once the "New" is out of Beta..someone might go from 15.04.2 to the non-Beta version of "New" once that is released and be lost...some thing like this maybe?