peetersm

okay, I posted my print in my cozy 3D Print Corner. see if you can spot it at 1st glance. AND like any good UM it's already hacking it's self since the print job it just finished is the Sound Dampening Spring, an add on I think every UMO needs. link to the print area-a few more images are there

I am getting emails now. I double checked and I have been and am still following the thread. The post I missed was dec 2nd and I looked at the email notifications I got on the 2nd and 3rd and no mention of that post in those emails. Strange , possible a one time thing, I'll try to notice if I see something like this happening again.

I'm just saw to opposite issue. There was an unread post in a thread I am following and I never got an notification email or in the notification bar at the top of the web page. The forum list did show "1 unread" correctly so that is how I knew.

Yeah, frustrating is correct. UM is working with their supplier to fix the issue, hopefully soon they will have the quality control dialed in at their supplier. ColorFabb is my go to filament of choice.

glad you got it fixed by switching filaments. I've had tons of issues with UM brand PLA and FYI they are supposed to be fixing the issue with their supplier. I'm waiting to see the "new formulation" and if it's any better. ColorFabb is great imo.

Do you have a link to this extension ? this is the on I have used. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25036 I link this method since I can tweak the path in inkscape if I need to.

I use several paths for 2d-3d. 1. thingiverse objects that allow it 2. thingiverse image to surface page then openSCAD 3. scripts on ubuntu using imagmagick>pgm2surf.py>command line openSCAD 4. inkscape to make a svg of the image then export to openSCAD with extension. Each has it's advantages depending on what I am trying to accomplish. funny I have never tried CURA, I need to give that a spin.

wonderful, thanks so much. DM on the way. Yeah, I don't think I have recently heard about the color issues. Glad to hear you have a stable supplier now and hopefully color and defective PLA will become a thing of the past. It's important that the rest of UM offerings live up to the great reputation you've built for yourself. I'm so happy with the UMO+ kits, I tell everyone it's the best printer for the money, it's beautifully engineered and a real work horse day in and day out.

@sandervg any word from HQ yet?

what I would really like is for Octoprint to automatically log this info to the google sheet (locally if that's easier) everytime a print job is run. Even if I just started the job from the ulticontroller I would want it to log the info I select.

Nice template for info logging thanks for sharing. My currently process for general printing is just log info that will help me track machine and filament use (incase I decide to sell items this helps me price them, and keep maintenace records for the machine): Print job name Number objects in print run (for mulitple item print jobs) Filament color Meters fo filament used (according to CURA) Gram of filament used (according to CURA) Time of job (according to CURA) Misc notes. I figure I can get specific printer settings from the gcode files if I need to go back to that job later. I use a google sheet with a form page to log the info into my sheet. If I am in the midst of trouble shooting I would keep track of specific settings on paper and number the calibaration prints. I like this google form method since i can bookmark it on my computer and phone and enter the info from either one. I have a sperate page for each printer.

thanks, apparently my last email to them which included the brainstorming ideas was lost in cyberspace. But they have let me know that I need to take this up with Dynamism (the reseller I bought the kits from). anyway I'll wait to hear from you before doing anything else. I appreciate the help.

@sandervg have you heard from fbrc8? This issue is not resolved and I have 3 more spools of defective filament I just got in the 3 new kits I took delivery on. Below is the last email I had with support on 10-28-15, they asked what they can do to make this right, and here's my brain storming response. I'm curious if you can try to address some of these and maybe share what the conversation has been at HQ about this ongoing wide spread issue. -----------------------------paste--------------------------------------------------------- thanks for all the help. I agree sending more UM filament is probably not going to help since this is a very wide spread issue with UM's current filament source. And I'm worried about the 3 new kits I just took delivery on last week, I bet they'll have been stocked with the defective filament too. I guess I would like UM to acknowledge this issue, and let us know on the forums what is going to be done. SandervGg should help out with this. I think UM should take this up with their supplier at the very least. I've read on the forums that UM does not have a set supplier for PLA and they switch from time to time based on prices etc. this is no way to give customers a reliable quality. People have mentioned things like colors not matching between spools. For the price they charge this is not acceptable, AND for the reputation of the UM brand name this is not acceptable. Since this issue effects more than me I would like to know what UM is going to do for everyone who's having this trouble. I think acceptable resolutions from UM would be: 1. replace with good PLA. 2. offer a refund $41USD to $59USD (the cost of filament not including shipping from you and dynamism) 3. offer a store credit (Preferable from local supplier, I would want fbrc8 store credit or dynamism.com store credit, not store credit in EUR from ultimaker's store) 4. Acknowledge that you can print with this but you'll have a lot or waste PLA and hassle. Possibly a smaller refund/credit amount and a replacement bowden tube and clips which might get too much use from daily dis-assembly. ---------------------------------end paste---------------------------------------------------- ALSO here's a description of what this problem means from an early email with them ---------------------------------paste-------------------------------------------------------- I'm glad to hear you're trying the tape down test, let me know if you find the same results. I developed that test since it easily shows the flaw with this filament. The alternative is to load it into the machine and let is sit over night to see that the filament broke below the extruder and was brittle in the area that it was made to be straight, you would have to heat up the nozzle and try pulling the plastic out... but since it's so brittle now around the area that it was straightened it often would break off inside the bowden tube and I would have to remove one or both ends of the bowden tube (either extruder or hot end or both) to remove the plastic and re-load the machine. Do that a few days in a row and you'll see why I choose the tape down test since it reveals the same issues with out all that dis-assembly and hassle. (...) if no resolution is available(...) I thinking I make sure I never let a print job finish when I am not there to remove the plastic immediately once the job is over, or know that if I'm not gong to be there that I'll need to go through the removal process and waste a 2-3ft of filament each time. -------------------end paste--------------------------------------------------------------------- so far this is the list including the addition of 3 new printer kits I was shipped I have 3 more spools to add to this list of defective UM PLA SILVER UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 UM-7021b075 150720a02-240 UM-7021b075 150720a02-254 UM7021-1168-1537 UM7021-1168-1524 UM7021-1168-1491 DARK BLUE UM-7005b075 1505221b01-9

I think the kids at our school would love this. I am going to pick a light colored PLA since we don't have ABS at school (we do not have a fume hood).

This is a really neat design and a really fun video explaining. I love his use of openSCAD which is my favorite modler right now. http://www.mojoptix.com/2015/10/25/mojoptix-001-digital-sundial/ I think the video was the best 15minutes of my day so far. :-) just had to share this with you all.

Very cool. I'll have to read the papers and see if I can improve my flowers and jellyfish, and other drooloop designs.

Yes it has been painfull to watch, but very slow progress is being made, so I have not lost all hope. If recent events has shown anything it's that this data means very little to them, they had a very clear vision of what they wanted which trumped everything else like quality, end user experience, basic forum features, functionality, etc. Probably would blow it off and say it's growing pains. The old saying "You see what you want to see" applies well. They saw a half-baked poorly implamented, bug riddled forum and thought it was the best thing to happen in a long time. The ray of hope comes from you and others voicing options and helping them see the bugs and poor design so they can make improvements, after all they've made it very clear this is the only way forward, there will be no going back.

i'ld call it "intermitant underextrution". and it's very crazy making! Not a solution for getting better prints but just for this project... if the model is just a master for smooth-on whould it be possible to paint the flats with gesso 1st before the master mold is made and just sand the sides a bunch? Normally sanding would make the surface look strange but if this is just to make a mold for resin maybe that would be okay?

Yes big improvement.

Wall does look good. Is the top surface showing some underextrution?

I just got a replacement roll of UM Dark Blue, I did the tape test and in only 6 hours it's broken at every tape point. Grrr! here's my list now: SILVER UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 UM-7021b075 150720a02-240 UM-7021b075 150720a02-254 DARK BLUE UM-7005b075 1505221b01-9

here's some pic of an overhang on the corner of a bat-erang print, the over hang was kinda steep so I was worried it only looks bloopy on the corner the rest looks pretty good. (also some other white prints showing some issues I'm having with all colors about retraction blobs.) main difference is that my measurements show the filament to be on the small-ish end 2.76mm and I'm printing at 190C which is my normal print temp for colorFabb. layer_height = 0.1 (only the bat-erang was at 0.1 the others all at 0.2mm) wall_thickness = 1.2 solid_layer_thickness = 0.6 fill_density = 17 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 190 print_bed_temperature = 25 filament_diameter = 2.76

FYI - update good and tedious. good - I'm going to be shipped some UM Blue Filament, I hope this will not show the issues Silver had or the White that @model_dude discovered. tedious - the ticket is so long now (one month and counting) that I think the support reps are forgetting what the issue is (i've have 3 different reps trying their best to help me so far, and they are great). BUT they keep trying to treat this like a printer issue or environmental/storage, and I'm having to try to re-explain every time that it's simple a bizarre PLA quality issue. Bless their hearts they even did some test prints with the returned PLA that looks good...but that's not the trouble, never was. Fingers crossed the UM Blue is better quality.... Hey can we start a petition to ask UM to use ColorFabb from now on? :-) Their policy of shopping around for different plastic suppliers seems a little weird anyway if they are trying to establish a brand quality reputation.

Yeah @fbrc8sarah let me know to order it from over seas in Euro's and pay international shipping. :-( I guess when I thought about it what @sandervg said it made sense, since I have often received the odd missing kit part from support (some from frbc8 some from dynamism who might be getting it from netherlands) and they've awlays had those parts (so far I've put together close to 20 UMO+ kits) , but I bet they must be pulling from a small stash of opened kits for canabalization?