peetersm

the time was not bad. Not counting the trips to the store it took me 11 hours (it was two days with lots of break). The 1st day went faster since I had my daughter helping me, the 2nd day I was all by my self. Plan on a 2nd pair of hands and the fun of working with a partner. I think if I had all the parts and tools you could do it in one day.

@nallath - looks like you missed the fact that the temp is fine when the fan is at 100% or zero. The temp only has issues when the fan is between these values. @amedee - thanks, your suggestion did not work since diableing the fan seems to over ride tweak at height, but it got me on the right track! What you need to do is set: Fan full on at height (mm) = Initial layer thickness (mm) + Layer height (mm)

Hi, I just finished putting together my kit Ultimaker Original Plus and am looking forward to fine tuning the machine now. I just wanted to share info with anyone still waiting for delivery in the hopes you can be more prepared than I was when you finally get you kit in the mail. (several months ago I tried to get a list of tools included vs. needed from UM but they were not able to provide that.) I went way over the "3 trips to the hardware store" rule of doing projects. Tools needed (included in kit) 2mm hex wrench 2.5mm hex wrench Tools/items needed (NOT included in kit) size 1 phillips head screw driver 3/16 inch flat head screw driver 7/32 inch box wrench ½ inch box wrench or crescent wrench pilers exacto blade knife counter sink drill bit sand paper (maybe needed) 16 washers 0.5mm thick ALSO you may want to just pick up some extra bolts and nuts since the kit was missing Parts list Note (missing or surplus) if not listed exact number was in kit. hex nuts 3mm (1209) short -9 (3 not even tapped) bolt M3 x 10mm (1202) short -5 bolt M3 x 16mm (1204) short -6 spacer 8mm (1502) short -4 lock nuts 3mm (1214) extra +1 bolt M3 x 4mm (1348) extra +2 bolt M3 x 12mm (1203) extra +2 bolt M3 x 14mm (1205) extra +6 bolt M3 x 20mm (1216) extra +3 Torsion Springs not used? +4 Assembly notes and directions notes: no complete parts list to check while unboxing several discrepancies between the Step's parts list tables and actual parts needed for a Step. so just adding up parts from the tables will not be exact. mounting of the fan shroud made difficult by image of cartridge heater (180 degrees turn would be better) Heated bed PCB (1155) needed additional counter sinking at all holes other than that I am one VERY HAPPY customer, probably since all the missing part could be obtained at my local hardware store. I am looking forward to many many hours of printing from this beautifully designed printer.

UPDATE - I did get better results after doing an auto-calibrate PID and printing one at a time. THANKS!!! BUT still have the temp control issues. I am convinced my wires are fine, and now think my temp control issues are due to the fan running at speeds<100% and the PWM interference this can cause on the UMO. This thread describes what I am seeing and talks about fan PWM and possible effects on temp sensors. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6327-weird-temperature-swings/

I think I need some help figuring out how to ask Cura to only run the fan at 0% or 100% and nothing in between. (I'll explain later why) I have set the Fan speed min (%) to 100 which I think should tell Cura that if ANY amount of cooling is needed then the fan should be turned on ala M106 255. I set the Fan speed max(%) to 100, just for good measure. But when I look at the gCode I am seeing places where the fans are being turned on at slower values such as: ;LAYER:1 M106 S84 (......) ;LAYER:2 M106 S168 Is there another setting I have over looked? The reason why I want to do this is that I am running an UMO and I believe the PWM used for fan speeds<100% is causing major trouble with my temp sensor and causing failed prints. When the fan speed is anything other than 0% or 100% I am seeing immediate jumps of 5-10 degrees in the temp sensor. (see video) and reading this thread lead me to test out the impact of fan speeds. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6327-weird-temperature-swings/ I have ruled out shorts in the wire (I am on my 2nd cables already) and testing fan speeds can duplicate this issue for me. I have tried twisting my fan cables and move them over 20mm from the temp wires, but still see this behavior.

I use both (in different printers, not the same printer). My 1.75mm printer is a direct drive. I'm not sure I really notice a benefit to one over the other than that when most filaments all have tolerances of +-0.05mm in diameter for the 2.85mm diameter filament this is only a volume difference of 7.02% while for the 1.75mm filament this is a volume difference of 11.43% so I do think my 1.75mm machine prints can have more variability, but it's not an UM either. :-) There are more vendors carrying 1.75mm and 3.0mm filament that 2.85mm, but maybe that's not important. I don't like to cheap out on filament since I have some useless rolls laying around that were too big and I stick with suppliers I have good luck with.

i think you should make the video "unlisted" or "public" I can not see it, i just get a "this video is private" message.

It was less than 1 second, like the blink of an eye. I am on my 2nd wires already. I will do more testing, but I did try seeing the short via the method you describe and was not able to see it. I will be more diligent with the poking and moving around. I may need to look for replacement wire set. here a link to a short video I short showing the behavior at it's worst.

I love the idea of the custom gcode to push the object off and start over, but these beads require a little more pressure to remove than i would like to subject the print head to. I did see some "jumping" in the temp (see image from CURA-pronterface-print window. but it would go long periods being stable. once when I was watching the ulticontroller I saw it drop to 230 the go back up to 240, or jump from 240 to 247 then come back down, but did not see this reflected in the print window graph? anyway printing one at a time also helped, see pics. Is the fix for jumping temps a replacement thermisor? autoadjust PID, - both? I will continue to do one at a time prints since this is giving me better results. But would like to figure out how to be able to solve the jumping and maybe do more print all at once jobs.

Thanks! I did notice some wide temp swings (+-15deg) a month ago and tried testing the wires which all looked fine, reconnecting things may have helped since I think I am only seeing +-8degs swings now. I will use the cura screen to gather betting info. So the grease idea is great. But the thermisor does not want to come out of the block, and I am worried about beaking it. I was able to add silver grease to the heater. I will keep an eye on this and also try printing one at a time. I'll keep you posted.

Hi, I am having trouble going from printing 2 objects at once to printing 60 objects at once. I did not change anything in CURA from printing 2 of these cylindrical beads, to then printing 60. The 60 bead print is getting a lot of ridges in the walls of these cylindrical beads. see photo and CURA 14.09 settings used. any ideas what is happening? is it filament? is my Z axis sad? I did not see any gringing on my filament and I am printing layer = 0.1mm speed = 50mm/s temp = 240degC (I know that's a bit hot but this faberdashery Village Green likes to under extrude at lower temps) [profile] layer_height = 0.1 wall_thickness = 0.8 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 0.6 fill_density = 100 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 240 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 70 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False wipe_tower_volume = 15 ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 2.83 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100.0 retraction_speed = 40.0 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 2 retraction_combing = False retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0 retraction_hop = 0.0 bottom_thickness = 0.2 layer0_width_factor = 100 object_sink = 0 overlap_dual = 0.15 travel_speed = 150.0 bottom_layer_speed = 20 infill_speed = 0.0 inset0_speed = 0.0 insetx_speed = 0.0 cool_min_layer_time = 5 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 0 skirt_gap = 3 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 0.5 fan_speed = 100 fan_speed_max = 100 cool_min_feedrate = 10 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_type = Grid support_angle = 60 support_fill_rate = 15 support_xy_distance = 0.7 support_z_distance = 0.15 spiralize = False simple_mode = False brim_line_count = 1 raft_margin = 5.0 raft_line_spacing = 3.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 1.0 raft_interface_thickness = 0.27 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4 raft_airgap = 0.22 raft_surface_layers = 2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1

Is there any way to I change that path back? I have several CURA folders for my different machines and versions, this behavior ruins a lot of nice things I use to be able to do. Is that path setting in one of the .py files so I can just edit it back, or is in inside the complied exe?

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the wires. I switched to the spare set of wires and I'm okay now. See what GR5 told me in this thread for better details. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5617-um1-mintemp-fail-at-random-times-solved/

here's a photo. I did not try to find new springs just because this worked and I'm lazy that way. I had tons of these washers, they are the kind used with pop-rivets. Two washers is what works well now. I started with 3 and that was too tight, one too loose.

i had a similar issue with 2 of my springs i added small washers under the spring to shorten the gap it filled. if this is not clear I can post a photo.

thanks for the reply! The shrinking I think i've read about is the lower layers shrinking a bit more that the upper layers since they are held at a higher temp longer..maybe I need top re-read the forum posts talking about that.

I'm really excited about the sale runing now till october 26th. want to get more UMs. (I have 3 different printers that I run for a school and if I could have all UM my life would be so much better, also have been kicking myself for months since I missed the last UM sale+doodle3D) Maybe some of you have also been agonising over the same issue .... Heated Bed VS Blue Tape maybe share you're thoughts on which model YOU would buy and why? Because at this moment I am totally a "Blue Tape Guy" let me explain why. 1. I have not had good luck with heated beds. My UM1 does not have a heated bed, but the MakerGear M2 I have does, and due to the known issues with heated beds...not sticking, corner lifting, corner shrinking, messy water cleanup+glue stick, sagging. etc...I gave up trying to get it to work and basically just put blue tape on the glass and have great results everytime. 2. when needed, I am fast and good at putting blue tape down. 3. My printer room does not have a sink. 4. I often run many small jobs one after the other and blue tape allows me to just pop off one print and then keep going, often before the nozzle even drops more than 30 degrees...BUT ... with a heated bed I need to wait for a cool down and removal and possibly re-glue stick, before printing again. 5. I ONLY print with PLA. (I am at a school with small kids and ABS fumes are toxic) I have been using a UM1 over a year, printing most every day. I love it. BUT I worry that I might be missing some vital info about heated beds...a lot of maunfacters seem to be going that way, I can not figure out why. Since so many people are posting about the problems and accepting issues like shrinking parts. and I also think , why should I spend money for a heated bed if I am just going to use blue tape all the time. I am open to seeing the Heated Bed merits. if you have time to share I would appreacte it , thanks.

thanks for the feed back, here what I have found based on your tips. 1. I think the plastic wheel has a dent, could this cause slippage? 2. The filament does not look like it's been ground up, but every so often I see lighter (shallower) teeth marks. see photos. oh and I was printing at 220degrees.

I love my UM1, but it's not happy and I could use some advise on getting good prints again, I think I am having under extrution. FYI just recently I had to switch to the "spare" hot end wire to correct a MINTEMP error fail. and now I think I am having under extrusion. please look at these pictures and see if you agree. so far I have, quadruple checked the filament diameter, watched the printing temp on the LCD and that seems fine, bowden does move a bit on retraction but I don't think any more than it used to.plus one of my test prints has no retraction. checked the extruder tension screw..it's tight and ~11mm.

one 8 hour and one 7 hour print under my belt! thanks for the help!!

okay, gr5 you're right I did not need to ask for heat I just needed to poke more. I did see the MAXTEMP error when I disconnected the cable from the board. and then with some more gentle poking on the head end I did see the MINTEMP error. I have switched over to the spare wires. I'll kep you posted, so far I'm 15 minutes into an 8 hour print. fingers crossed! :-)

thanks So much for the info. Right now I am printing at 210C I will check those head connections again and also the connection on the board under the printer since I did try poking and moving the head around while at temp for perheat PLA. I do have the F support installed, and I did see the spare wire just in case. I'll be back by the machine tomorrow. I am curriuos. if the heater power wire or thermistor are losing connection would the target temp on the LCD go to zero? Shouldn't the target temp be controlled by the firmware regardless if it "sees" the thermistor or heater, or is going to zero a safty feature, like a deadman's switch?

I am having trouble with my UM1. I have triple checked my gcode and there's only one M109 (at the top), also this is happening at randome times during the print. I watched the LCD panel and am seeing this: -at a random place during the print (not the same everytime) the target temp will flash to zero. (sometimes the temp read also flashes zero then back to the read temp) - the head will start cooling untill I get a "Err: MINTEMP" and then the fan turns on (if it's not already on) I tried doing a "preheat PLA" and then moving the head all around and pushing on the wires & bowed tube but could not duplicate this problem that way. CURA 14.01 Firmware 13.12 Dec 16th 2013 Any suggestions on what to try next? thanks, Mark

thanks for the clarification IRobertl. I did double check teh gcode and I can not see any issues around the 4th flower. I did use CURA 14.03 maybe I should use an earlier version? my other UM1 files were made with "Cura_SteamEngine 13.12" I will put some more files up there today.

Thanks illuminarti! I'll double check my code for the last flower, and thanks for helping me understand the differeneces between the UM gcodes, I had no idea that the UM2 dynamically measures the filament and adjusts..i think that's what you mean, that's soo cool! Do you have "non-default" settings you like, for example speed settings 50mm/s seems a little slow. I did consider TweakATZ plugin but I did not see an opion for "turn off fan and leave it off" and since a lot of times the gcode files adjust the fan speed at the layer I had to keep turning off the fan at every layer, so I just manually commented out the lines to be sure the fan turned off and STAYed off.