peetersm

update- i did the reverse atomic method and got the nozzle very clean. see photos. i put some tape on the fan shroud so i could keep the directions clear. and used a webcam with a cheap magnifier lens taped to it to get these shots. But the nozzle still seemed very tight. I was not able to find a source for a torque wrench that would measure 1.5 - 2 Nm. But I have an UMO+ so I printed the one Anders made. This allowed me to not be too worry about breaking the printer since it still took a lot of force to screw the nozzle in. The wrench slipped a few times before the nozzle was seated, but I would pause and turn it again and it would turn the nozzle a bit more...anyway long story short, I got the nozzle installed again and am very happy. I would just say that anyone getting an UM with the Olsson block should print that wrench before ever changing the nozzle and buy a 7mm socket. The tiny wrench provided with the kit now is very difficult to use and the nozzle fits SOOO tight that you may not be able to put the nozzle back in with the wrench provided. Thanks for all the great help everyone!

@neotko I will try the reverse atomic. Do you fill the nozzle hole completely with PLA or do you only do one side at a time? @Remy They are not shipping the socket any more, they are including a really cheap open box wrench. I'm worried I might have something more that filament gumming it up since it came out pretty hard the 1st time too.

thanks for the tips and info. I'm not able to detect any filament gumming up the threads. if there is filament in there do you just ignore it and keep making the nozzle hotter when changing? or is there a cleaning method that works for you? I did try at 220C and that was not any better. I can try hotting but I have only been printing in PLA, so 220C should be hot enough. I may go buy a real torque wrench after finding and reading about the 3D printed one...you need to buy a 7mm socket and if printed in pla it can get melty when the heat transfers from the nozzle to socket to pla.

I have an UM2+ and am wondering what I need to do to get the nozzle turning smooth and going all the way back into the olsson block again. I'm on my 3rd swap and it's progressively required more force to screw the new nozzle into the block. Trying to put the 0.4 nozzle in, before it was right up next to the fan shroud. Now it's stopped turning easily with 2mm still to go it's so tight I fear I will break something. here's what I've done so far....... It's brand new and I am following the official looking directions here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/18805-changing-nozzles Which says to do an atomic pull , leave it at 90C, remove nozzle, install nozzle, all at 90C the whole time. 1st swap - 0.4 to 0.8 - the atomic pull was great, the nozzle was kinda hard to remove with the tiny box wrench supplied with the printer, but it came out with some groaning sounds. (I don't know how much force was needed since I don't have a torque wrench, but it seemed good and snug) The 0.8 nozzle went in really easy for about 3 turns then became very stiff but I was able to turn it until it stopped right below the fan shroud. (all steps done at 90C) 2nd swap - 0.8 to 0.25 - the atomic pull was great - again removing and installing nozzle was tight, to took more force to seat the 0.25 nozzle. everything done at 90C 3rd swap - 0.25 to 0.4 - the atomic pull was great - removing was harder than before with the groaning metal. now I can not get the 0.4 nozzle to go all the way in. Still first 3 or so turns are fine, but then it gets very tight. then I cam across these official looking directions: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/17869-swapping-nozzles Which says to do the swap at the last printing temp " If the temperature has dropped after removing the nozzle previously, go to “Maintenance” > “Advanced” > “Heat-up Nozzle” again and set it to the printing temperature of the last used filament (e.g. 210 for PLA, 250 for ABS). If the block is not at the required temperature when the nozzle is swapped, leftover plastic will prevent the nozzle from being tightened properly." SO I tried heating up the nozzle to 220C which was the last PLA temp I was printing at. the nozzle did not go in any easier. Also while it was hot I swabbed the inside threads gently with some tissue to see if any PLA was globing around in there and it came out clean. then I tried cold....Nope. so what temp do you use and what should I do? Should I get a torque wrench to make sure I don't break it?

Two things I'm not sure if these are fixable or not. 1. the "machine name_" is appended to the beginning of the gcode file name. so your file is called "mark cool file for 8nozzle.stl" and the gcode is saved as "UM2+_mark cool file for 8nozzle.stl" This is annoying since naming gcode so that you can read it on the tiny controller screen is important and especially the beginning of the file name which is often all you get to read. Can this be turned off in preferences? or IF YOU MUST add clutter to the gCode file name could you add this to the end where it will not interfere with our naming systems? 2. file names are truncated after the last period in the file name. so your file is called "2.8.10n8-Flat Stimga5 Long.stl" and the gcode is saves is called "UM2+_2.8.gcode". OR your file is called "2.8.1.0.n.8-Flat Stimga5 Long.stl" and the gcode is saves is called"UM2+_2.8.1.0.n.gcode" this is strange behavior, the old CURA would have named the 1sty examples as gcode "2.8.10n8-Flat Stimga5 Long.gcode" is this something that can be changed in the preferences or fixed in the code?

Trying to export profile on CURA 2.1.2 64bit (running on win7 64 bit) and I get this message It makes the file just fine but it is zero K I looked for more info in the engine log but all I see is that it appears it did not like it's own UM2+ profile since I see this ----------------------paste------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Calling engine with: ['C:\\Program Files\\Cura 2.1\\CuraEngine.exe', 'connect', '127.0.0.1:49674', '-j', 'C:\\Program Files\\Cura 2.1\\resources\\machines\\ultimaker2plus_080.json', '-vv'] ...... Loading polygon setting machine_disallowed_areas not implemented... Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_platform_offset has type array Loading polygon setting machine_head_polygon not implemented... Loading polygon setting machine_head_with_fans_polygon not implemented... Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_head_with_fans_polygon has type array Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_disallowed_areas has type array Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_platform_offset has type array Trying to override unknown setting machine_show_variants.Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_head_with_fans_polygon has type array Unrecognized data type in JSON: machine_disallowed_areas has type array ----------------end paste--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I tried importing profiles from 15.04.5 and does not read brim settings does not import plugins like tweakAtZ import dialog does not remember import path always goes to root of user folder I also I think I saw some "calculated values" not imported or overwritten. like wall speed seemed different. Cura 2.1.2 Win64bit running on win7 64bit

I think @markhoe has an UMO+ and z0 is not the bottom but the top, or the bed at its highest position. (I have not tested to, going on memory)

To check it, open the gcode in a text editor and search for "pause" then see what layer that is happening at. These will be comments in the gcode preceded by a semicolon.

Looks like they posted them, and it's just a tweak to the UM2+ Default material setting for the frimware. No slicer engine updates or fixes. "Improved material profiles for PLA, ABS and CPE for the Ultimaker 2+ family."

I think this is because they are so different and "legacy CURA" just keeps updating in it's same path. Not clearly identifying the difference is a naming issue that was not well thought out at UM HQ.

Hopefully they will get around to posting these but looks like it's been almost 24hours and they are not on the release notes page yet.

Maybe the site rebooted recently? I had to re-log in today. What ever the case, none of the notification links are taking me to the unread part. I either get one page back or the top of the post, and no bar showing the unread beginning. Ipad IOS 7.0.6 and safari

I read that on Linux installing 2.1.2 nukes any 15.x.x installs you have. Is this the same on windows? I am not ready to lose all my 15.x.x stability and control.

looks like you have a loose pulley I would start with the pulley on the y stepper motor. If it was slipping this would explain the drift in the y direction.

I was able to print with no brim. So the file is good. One small improvement you might consider (if you can without changing it's function) I would adjust the thickness of the walls to be even multiples of the nozzle (so 0.8mm or 1.6mm) this way it will slice and print better without all trying to print infill. here's a video (also I'm using blue tape which I prefer to the heated bed, you don't get as much elephant foot, warping, and you can start another print immediately without waiting for the bed to cool down) If I do use the heated bed I only choose 25C since my basement is cold in the winter and I want at least 25-27C on the bed, but no higher due to the blue tape doing the job of providing adhesion.

model looks fine to me, I would probably not use Brim at all in fact. I think if the PLA is curling up at the nozzle then you're having trouble sticking to the bed. (are you using PLA?) I would check your bed level, Bed Temp, etc to make sure your getting a good 1st layer. I'll try printing this on mine and see how it works.

Sounds like it's not printing the modle the way you expected. ?yes? Some photos would help, and the stl if that is possible. What version of CURA are you usinging? (You should NOT be using the beta versions ). When you look at the "layer" view in cura , do you see the same results your printer is producing? You can often catch issues with slicing in layer view before printing.

@eraser & wife great job, I love the string to keep it walking straight, that is a very smart idea!

I think the answer is no since the seach can't even perform the most basic of trivial searches yet (I think they are working on this). But Have no fear there is an easy way to do this with google. Use the site: command on the google search line and paste the post's URL in front (no spaces) then Leave a space and type in your search term. Works like a charm. To look for "thread " site:ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback thread To look for "easy way" site:ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback easy way

I have been using the "head move to remove objects" auto print for over a year now and love it. You can only use this if the attachment to the bed is small enough. And I have found that the blue tape can easily stand up to well over 100 prints in the same place. I especially like to use this method at Maker Faires and events where I want the printers running for hours on end making little handouts for passers by. One favorite is my drooloop flowers, I have several machines cranking these out and when they pop off, I just put a pipe-stem cleaner stem on them and hand them out. People love them. And I don't have to fuss with the printers they just run non-stop.

Just trying this out. I choose UMO+ and ran through the setup sets you have documented. step 5/11 I have a suggestion for the directions for "limit switches". You show a photo of the head being moved into the front left corner for both the X and Y limit switches, and in the text that is what you tell them to do. This will not help if they are reversed since your probably hitting both the X and Y in the front left corner. I actually have seen this issue at one school and it was a little hard to diagnose until we followed the procedure I'm outlining below. To test the X limit switch you should have them move the head to the MIDDLE left to make sure the switch is activated. To test the Y limit switch you should have them move the mead to the MIDDLE front to make sure the switch is activated. ---- on step 6/11 you say the head will "home" in the back left corner. if this is how the level wizard works than ok (I have not used that in years) BUT if it homes like normal it will be in the FRONT left corner. -- step 7/11 are there control buttons on the cura bed level wizard now? or are you talking about the ulti controller? ok I'm going to stop talking like i know what is happening until I run the wizard again on 15.04.5 I'll be back later this week if I have any pertinent advice. :-)

Ipad IOS 7.0.6 and win 7 chrome. The bell and notification number are still floating down in the page, not centered in the blue bar. (FYI Firefox looks fine on win7) Also on IOS 7.0.6 I had to log in today and thought it was hanging up since I only got a blue page with the X in the top right corner, but if I scrolled down 3 of 4 screens I finally saw the login box. Notification links some go to 1st unread some don't . Can't see a pattern.

Or... I could leave the feet as they are and have a backwards walking robot, a-la Michael Jackson. :-)

Thanks for all the tips, none of my bots walk. I think had the feet on backwards , since it sounds like the longer part faces the back and the shorter part faces the front. (Opposite of a human foot) I tried adding weight to the feet, the hands, body, etc trying to make the center of gravity lower since they just kept face planting. I will try the tips and report back.