peetersm

+1 on the month long time frame +1 on the PLA prizes: 3 spools for 1st place, 2 spools for 2nd, 1 for 3rd +1 coffee mug prize, t-shirt, lapel pin, underwear, handkerchief, etc AND at least 2x a year give away a printer. I was really bummed I did not get the UM2 from the ornament contest you ran with MakeMag, but I agree the winner was amazing! HEY don't you have a butt load of UM2s stilling around looking like the proverbial ugly step-child? I'ld take on of those for a prize. I like the innovation and learning type contests, but if you want to get more participation you'll need to (at least every other month) run a more pedestrian contest that would be open to more new and basic users. (I'm thinking th!ng!v#rse style contests) also don't shy away from design contests, I think plenty of people have the basic cad skills to modify or make something totally new. and make sure you require a tag be applied to the post in youmagine for the contest so I can easily type that in youmagine's search field and see all the entry. Just like the #makingmerry contest get a corporate sponsor in there too, (again like the make magazine partnership) this will also give more visibility. adafruit might be cool what ever you do , do it! I think it's a fun thing to watch

would using google to search the forum cause bounces? because that is the only way to search. If the bouncers are actually newbies people coming to the site to look for something I bet they are coming here, trying to use the search feature, seeing it's total garbage, getting frustrated and leaving because there is no way that are going to find what they are looking for using the search. My 2 cents .... I would put any extra energy you have into fixing the forum's functionality and usability which would make this type of user happy and stay since that actually get an answer. I'm not sure collecting "this thread helped me" clicks will help you at all. I see those on google's help pages and other sites and I never get to use them since I'm typically not finding the help I need there but in some other forum. And the only way those might be made useful would be to know what the exact issue was that the person was looking for (their search terms) and which part of the thread (which often contains lots of good suggestions and fixes) was the part that they found useful.

about US PLA source. I'm in Kalamazoo and I get ColorFabb PLA from printedsolid.com great service and free shipping on orders over $195

You had me at happy dance. ;)Let me have a look around and see what the options are in this regard! Please add to your list new PT100 for UMO+ ! Sounds like the accuracy would be a great improvement too.

I like this sound dampening spring. it's a quick print and easy to install with some screws. I also usually put some rubber between the body and the spring when I mount it. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/sound-dampining-spring

I've wanted to know this for years! boy did my life just get easier! <3<3

hopefully you'll fix what ever smoked the EXT1 so you don't do the same to EXT2. what if you also moved the PT100 and Heater connections over to corresponding the 2nd head spots on the circuit board?

for the UM2 I think reducing the retraction noise will be difficult since the motor in mounted on the frame. On the UMO and UMO+ it's very easy to print the decoupling spring and this greatly reduces the retraction noise, this is one of the 1st things I tell people to mod on their UMOs. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/sound-dampining-spring

interesting, if you are getting under extrusion at 50mm/s and not 30mm/s then maybe raise the temp or slow down the whole print.

What I do is use blue tape. then there is no cool down time. most of the time you will not damage the tape and print again immediately.

Same here. I'm new to GitHub but would this be the place for end users to look to find out if the current version is "stable" enough for their personal sense of adventure level? https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/labels/bug Also since depending on use and feature expectations..... one man's "pretty stable" is another man's "totally unusable".

hang in there. I'm really happy with mine. Once you're past the frustration of emailing support, I hope you'll feel the same.

This thread has some good suggestions. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10731-2d-3d-tool?page=1&sort=#reply-125199 I accomplish this with several different free tool paths depending on what I need the final result to be.

About the bed... I have several UMO+ print in PLA only and am not a fan of heated beds, due to the known issues of edges curling up, wrinkled lower layers, longer cool down times to start another job, etc. I use blue tape on glass. (ok...well I do use the heated bed in the winter, and only to 26C because my basement is cool) Not sure you'll need a heated bed, but I will bow to those who know more about large printers.. actually thinking about it, when I print a very rigid and large surface area on bed object it is pretty hard to get it off the bed...YOU may want a heated bed because removing an object from that large of the surface might be difficult without the heated bed's "shrinking and popping off" feature. ok now I'm not sure what to tell you. I just know that when I print an object that is large and covers most of the bed it can be very difficult to remove it from the glass.

is this what you need? http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output

I think for #2 you need to adjust the "steps/mm" in the firmware then you'll be all set. this is one source of info. http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide#XY_steps

Strange that you can use pronterface to move another motor plugged into the E motor port on the board, but the actual extruder motor does not work the same way. (is your testing motor the same spec as the extruder motor?) Is this a new issue, have you tried re-flashing the firmware with Cura?

Contact support, this is a known issue with UM PLA, the issue is supposed to be fixed now, but I have not seen the new PLA formulation to be able to know if it's better now. I should be getting the new stuff soon. Read more here and see a video of my testing method to identify the faulty PLA.

I have found the manual lacking in several ways, here's a link that will give you more references to look at. FYI - I've updated my annotated to V2.3 Link to hand scribble corrected UMO+ assembly manual v2.0 (Unofficial V2.3) link here to 2.3 updated 8-23-15

FYI - I've updated my annotated to V2.3 Link to hand scribble corrected UMO+ assembly manual v2.0 (Unofficial V2.3) link here to 2.3 updated 8-23-15

FYI - I've updated my annotated to V2.3 Link to hand scribble corrected UMO+ assembly manual v2.0 (Unofficial V2.3) link here to 2.3 updated 8-23-15

FYI - I've updated my annotated to V2.3 Link to hand scribble corrected UMO+ assembly manual v2.0 (Unofficial V2.3) link here to 2.3 updated 8-23-15

first of all I want to preface this with the fact that I think the UMO+ kit is the best value for quality and cash out there, great printer all around and I love this kit to no end. #1- yes this is still an issue on the kits I've seen in the last year, but the addition of the "spare parts bag" has greatly helped this. I have seen 'wrong" parts as well...for example instead of a 2.0mm hex driver they ship a 1.5mm hex driver(not use at all for the kit) OR the wrong PT100 cable (as in they packed the ~42inch one for the UM2 and not the ~63inch one for the UMO+ a bothersome error since you may not notice this until you've completely assembled almost everything and are trying to attach the electronics) OR they send you a table spring in place of the extruder tentioner spring. I recommend doing a full parts inventory before starting your build. I have posted a link to the spreadsheet I use here. #2 - Yes extra tools are needed. as listed here BUT you can ignore the counter sink bit. #3 - yes still get these. #4 - no this has been fixed. I have not had to counter sink the heated build plate for over a year now. I'm very pleased this has been fixed. also I still use my annotated build notes since the official version has errors. I'll check the version I have posted...i think I may have a v2.3 now.

If you want to check the rest of your parts, I have some links here. I also have an annotated build doc, because there are so many errors in the official version. I've found a lot of packing issues with these kits and always conduct a complete inventory before starting. Good luck, I love the UMO+ and I'm sure you will too once you get it put together.

Yeah post pics of the big one. Sounds really cool.