jonnybischof

Das kommt ganz auf die vorhandenen Sourcedaten darauf an. Bei mir läufts meistens darauf hinaus, dass ich einfach die Masse von den Sourcedaten nehme und das Teil nach meinen Wünschen neu zeichne. Für 2D-Teile benutze ich seit dieser Woche QCAD. Sehr nettes Programm (Pro Version inkl. Lehrbuch kostet 52 EUR), welches den "echten" DXF / DWG Exporter von Teigha verwendet. Die Bedienung ist äusserst einfach - wenn du einfache Geometrie in der Theorie beherrschst. Mal sehen was du zu Drayson's UltiDrawer meinst.

Hast du da schon Mal reingeschaut? --> http://fablab-leipzig.de/ Kenn ich nicht, hab ich nur gegoogelt Da kriegst du dein Sperrholz wahrscheinlich sehr günstig gelasert... Eventuell kannst du auch das Holz gleich dort beziehen. Die FabLabs sind meistens eine sehr günstige Möglichkeit für solche Projekte. Einen Untersatz habe ich leider nicht im Angebot. Mit den Sourcedaten von Ultimaker ist sowas aber recht schnell gezeichnet. Ich kann momentan nichts versprechen, aber im Prinzip ist das nicht mehr als 1-2 Stunden arbeit.. Bin gerade dabei, meinen eigenen Ultimaker Rahmen (aus Aluprofilen & gelaserten Alu- / Stahlteilen) zu zeichnen.

So true... I've been planning projects over and over. Multicopters, robots, RC stuff, alarm systems, whatever. But I usually lost interest because these things just wouldn't matter much to anyone. Or you could just buy them anyways. e-nable is a whole different story. I believe these hands do actually change peoples' lives for the better. I can relate to people with handicaps (a closely related family member of mine is paraplegic). The psychological aspect to being handicapped is - imho - even a bigger issue than the handicap itself. If these prosthetics can change "the weird handicapped kids" into "the cool kids with the robot hand", then it's worth any effort to make it happen! As soon as I got my workshop properly set up, I'll contact some local hospitals. I just don't want to rush things and get involved into something I can't put into reality yet. /edit: Being an electronics guy, I see a lot of potential to build on the "gadget" factor of these hands. It will be fun to think about cool stuff to put into a robot hand. I was always fascinated by these things - robots, exoskeletons, waaay too cool

LAN parties? I thought they were extinct a long time ago o.O lol It's not every day that you get to play with the best ME3 players in the world

So true... I hate the 3d-printed gun topic... (I like guns, mind you. Just not 3D printed illegal ones). I registered as a volunteer some time ago, but didn't complete the intake process yet. I wasn't happy with my print results so I'm waiting on my upcoming 3D printer builds to be finished. I want only the best quality to come from my workshop

Ich hatte bisher auch wenig Freude mit ABS... Das einzige ABS, mit welchem ich einigermassen brauchbare Ergebnisse bekommen habe, war SmartABS von Orbi-Tech. Mittlerweile nutze ich allerdings nur noch Colorfabb XT anstelle von ABS. Hält zwar "nur" bis 75°C, aber das reicht für die meisten Anwendungen aus. XT ist ausserdem viel stabiler als ABS, solange man keine super-dünnwandingen Objekte hat. Nachteil: XT kostet massiv mehr als ABS... Wer Probleme mit der Haftung hat, könnte sich auch einmal eine Dauerdruckplatte von www.printinz.com anschauen. Die sind teuer, sehen aber sehr hochwertig aus. Ich habe eine hier, sie ist aber noch nicht zum Einsatz gekommen (Drucker noch im Aufbau). ABS werde ich damit nicht drucken, aber laut Hersteller haftet ABS gut auf der Platte. Der Hersteller ist ausserdem aktiv hier im Forum und hilft euch bei Problemen gerne weiter (auf Englisch...).

Agreed! A wiki would probably be the ideal place for such a list. Any ideas? (Where's the UM wiki? )

Daid recommended DesignSpark Mechanical - I tried it (briefly) and I'm pretty impressed! It looks very easy to handle, yet still powerful. It's free. Didn't make any 3D constructions with it yet, only 2D sketches for lasercutting. For 3D stuff I still use Sketchup 8. The fact that it's a 3D drawing program instead of CAD makes it by far the easiest software to use for anyone who has no idea whatsoever about 3D CAD. If you're using Sketchup, you just have to know one thing: You basically have to draw every single line by yourself. Chamfering? Nope - draw it yourself.... Radius chamfering? Very tedious work... But it does work. There are of course tricks with Sketchup - but they usually don't work when you want to do very special stuff (like converge chamferings of different sizes for horizontal and vertical chamfers).

Awesome! This could actually be a reason for me to try dual extrusion at some point... You could print built-in rubber dampeners on an smartphone case and stuff like that To add your gallery to your posts, just click on "My Media" (close to the "font" and "size" settings in the editor) and select which album or pictures of an album you want to insert.

The speed is sick Is that real-time?? Why are travel moves slower than drawing moves?

* Templar cleanses the spell * I get my pulleys from robotdigg.com. They are very cheap - but surprisingly well made. Perfectly round, made on a CNC lathe. I only ditched the setscrews and used stainless steel ones because usually the chinese have very bad standard hardware (screws, nuts and stuff). That's probably not necessary, but I have the setscrews around. Btw, I'm completely redesigning the UMBE at the moment. Milling the frame panels is a PITA, and most of all it's much too expensive to sell them - it takes hours of manufacturing, broken tools and a lot of swearing... So I'm switching over to making a frame from Misumi aluminum extrusion profiles (30mm enhanced ridigity - solid as a rock) and lasered stainless steel parts. This sounds very expensive, but is actually cheaper in the end than the Trespa HPL panels. And that is simply because I can just design the parts and order them readily manufactured - no more post-processing or CNC milling on my side needed. I've also made large improvements on my Z-stage. The first prototype wasn't satisfactory, but I learned a lot from making it. The second one should be very good.

About the bearings: You have to be careful when selecting the right bearing / bushing. First, there's always good and bad quality parts. Second, a good bearing / bushing comes with a recommendation for what shaft tolerance to use. For example, the igus bushing I was looking at (didn't find the part number you specified..) says to use "h6 or h7" shafts. I use Misumi LMU8 linear ball bearings which are recommended for "g6" shaft tolerance. And I bought g6 shafts (of course). So you need to match the bushings to the shafts in order to get good results. iirc, the difference between g6 and h6 is that g6 is specified as "nominal diameter is maximum", whereas h6 is specified as "nominal diameter is minimum". The Ultimaker linear bearings rattle like crazy on my g6 Misumi shafts - but they run smoother on the Ulitmaker shafts. While the Misumi bearings almost "crunch" on the Ultimaker shafts, but run smoothly on the Misumi shafts.

Added a picture. Youmagine hates that picture, though... It rotates and crops it. Tried to correct it but it won't accept it. I don't have time for this, so I just have to direct you to the assembly instructions PDF file - lots of pictures there The PCB can handle the heat of the soldering process pretty well. You just have to be relatively quick. Also, don't push the wires into the plastic when soldering. Soldering is very easy because there is no ground plane sucking up all the heat... Prototyping (Vero-) Boards have other issues than just being expensive: What about the parts that don't have 2.54mm spacing? (ok - none of them in my hack, but there's other projects that have this problem). What about parts that have thick wires? TO-220 doesn't fit through the holes of a prototyping board - except with a lot of force or you have to drill out the holes. Then, it's difficult to solder the parts together when you have pads all over the PCB. My solution doesn't have any pads, so you can just put the wires where you want and solder them. Also, my solution has markings on the top for all the components and their orientation. And it has pre-marked paths for the wires so you know how to wire things up. The assembly instructions are more of an explanation of the general working principle - if you know how this works, you don't need them anymore.

I finally finished and printed my MosFET relay hack that I started a long time ago! The design is shared on YouMagine. I printed the circuit board (and case) with Diamond Age's excellent "Kiwi Lime" PLA. I love this PLA, it prints like a charm and the results are quite strong.

Anyone going to play Evolve? I heard they offered 3D printable models of the game characters on their website. Can't look for the link right now - I'm at work o.O

My sliding blocks won't work for you, because I've changed the distance between the 6mm rods that hold the hotend. My custom UM build has several changes like this and can therefore only be used as a whole - using only parts of it doesn't work. I'll stick to 6mm rods for the first build. Don't believe they're a problem unless you increase the x-y build size. I believe that a good bowden setup works very well - for now, I don't see any need of abandoning that design. At least not for something that would cost a lot more than a bowden setup. My printer variant will be expensive enough I'm afraid /edit: About the optical isolation: This is not necessary unless you have some really weird power supply setup, like an AC heater instead of 12 or 24 V DC. It can't hurt of course, but imho it's a waste of electronic components.

Nice one Nicolinux! Still no progress on my side for now. Too much work... I hope I'll get somewhere over the holidays.

Ich kenne mich mit dem UM2 nicht wirklich aus - aber so weit ich weiss, ist dessen Druckbett nicht quadratisch. Am besten fragst du beim Händler nach - ich wurde bei MTplus sehr kompetent beraten. Natürlich gibt es auch andere Quellen für gute Dauerdruckplatten. www.printinz.com hat beispielsweise eine Platte extra für den UM2. Habe eine Platte gekauft (nicht gerade billig und kommt aus den USA - dickes Porto & Steuern dazu), aber noch nicht getestet. /edit: Ich verwende meine PEI Platte anstelle der Glasplatte, sprich, habe sie direkt auf das PCB-Heizbett geklemmt. Dass die Platte eben ist, stelle ich mit einem Metallrahmen unter dem Ganzen sicher. Man kann auch die Glasplatte zwischen Heizbett und Druckplatte lassen - dadurch bleibt die Platte auch flach. Beim UM2 könnte es allerdings knapp werden mit den Klemmen.

... :shock: WOW

The Power expander is a nice thing - pretty much the same as I'm making (except it doesn't seem to have ESD protection on the output - but maybe I'm just not seeing it), except of course it's put on a nice PCB. I don't have the step files for the Reptar blocks, sorry. I printed them and broke one right away - much too slim and fragile design for my taste... I made my own blocks in the meantime, but din't get around to test them (not even printed them yet...).

You can actually make a PCB with your 3D printer Note: I never got around to finish that part - as it is shown in this album, it doesn't work. There's an error in the connections... But in principle - this works very well and is an easy way to go. Btw, the schematics are correct and are working well on my UMO. Just the printed thingy has an error - it doesn't match with the schematics.

Die PEI Platte habe ich von www.mtplus.de. PEI hat offenbar die Eigenschaft, dass PLA (und auch XT) darauf haftet, wenn es warm ist. Sobald das PEI aber abgekühlt ist, lässt die Haftwirkung nach - ohne Klebstoff, Tape oder sonst was. Bei XT ist die Haftung nicht ganz so optimal wie bei PLA (PLA und PEI = rundum sorglos. Ich drucke nicht einmal mehr mit Brim). XT haftet schon fast so gut, dass man aufpassen muss, die PEI Platte nicht zu zerstören. Unbedingt VOLLSTÄNDIG auskühlen lassen! Wenns etwas schneller gehen muss: WENIG Kältespray auf die PLA Teile sprühen. (Kontakt Chemie Kälte 75, oder ähnlich). Damit fliegen die Teile nur so davon...

I've also noticed that the LTBC wears off over time. Maybe it's not meant to be used with bushings? I don't know... It shouldn't matter though, as the LTBC is only a few microns thick (if even). I'm buying the hard chrome plating (HV750) now. Haven't used any of these yet... Maybe non-plated is actually the best thing to go, I'm not an expert on these things o.O

Kann man so sagen - man kriegt das PLA kaum mehr weg... Die Oberfläche des Plexiglases verformt sich ausserdem durch die heisse Düse des Druckkopfs. Also grundsätzlich würde ich das nicht machen. Wenn, dann würde ich eine beheizte Druckplattform mit Glasplatte (oder gar PEI - die ideale Druckplattform) einbauen. Das Ultimaker Original + kit soll super sein (allerdings auch teuer).

19-20 °C sollte in Ordnung sein. Vielleicht kannst du die Schrauben der Plexiglasplatte (die zum leveln) einfach etwas fester anziehen (das ganze Bett wird sich dadurch etwas absenken). Du musst dann den Z-Endschalter nachkorrigieren, damit di wieder auf dem neuen "Level" leveln kannst. Eigentlich sollte die Konstruktion stabil genug sein, bei mir ist auch immer noch dasselbe Ding im Einsatz...