jonnybischof

I sent a friend invite to you Nicolinux! I'm playing DA:I, too (Origin, though). I'm quite disappointed by the game so far, but just read an article about it that the story is supposed to emerge a bit into the game. So maybe I'll revise my opinion on that. And of course, Battlefield 4 is a long-time favorite of mine.

Will do! But Mass Effect is on Origin My Origin Name: CH-Lichthammer Not sure about my Steam name, I'll try the group (never done that before...) when I get home.

PC guy, sorry :( But still playing ME3 MP! (anyone) PM me if you want to add me on Origin

Try running a print with the fan at 0% all the time. Set the temperature to 200°C and speed to 40mm/s, layer height 0.1mm (first layer 0.3mm) These are usually very safe values for PLA - at least all of my PLAs will print well like this. Why 0% fan? It could be that the fan's PWM interferences with your temperature sensor (UM doesn't use shielded cables nor signal amplifiers for the sensors afaik). That would mean that your actual temperature is not what the electronics are reading from the sensor, and therefor actual nozzle temperature may drop (or rise) and cause underextrusion. The fact that it always happens at certain layers makes this assumption more probable - because the fan speed is changed per layer, and only certain PWM percentages will cause problematic interferences with the temperature sensor. But first things first - try it and see if it makes any difference. If not, nevermind.

Da würde ich (als ausgebildeter Elektroniker) auch nix reparieren - einfach neu bestellen. Ich würde dann wohl zu einem günstigeren Ersatzteil direkt vom Distributor greifen, aber so gross ist der Unterschied da auch nicht. Wenn der Temperatursensor nicht 100% zuverlässig funktioniert, dann druckst du auch nicht zuverlässig. Das würde ich auf keinen Fall haben wollen. /edit: Tipp: Insbesondere bei professioneller Nutzung kann es sinnvoll sein, sich das eine oder andere Ersatzteil an Lager zu legen. Ein Ausfall kann unter Umständen viel teurer für euch werden, als die paar Ersatzteile, die ihr vielleicht nie brauchen werdet...

Die Umgebungstemperatur hat tatsächlich einen grossen Einfluss auf den Druck! Wenn du den "Standard" UM1 hast, sprich kein beheiztes Bett und keine eingeschlossene Druckkammer, dann ist das umso mehr der Fall. Ich merke trotz meines Heizbetts und der geschlossenen Kammer, dass es in den letzten Tagen kälter geworden ist. Der Unterschied ist zwar viel kleiner geworden, aber so ein paar feine Anpassungen waren nötig. Ich würde den Drucker auf keinen Fall in einem unbeheizten Raum betreiben - da wirst du kaum richtig gute Ergebnisse bekommen. Du probierst dich an sehr kleinen Objekten (z.B. dein drittes Objekt, nach der Vase) - diese sind tendenziell schwieriger zu drucken als grössere, einfachere Modelle. Du solltest mit etwas einfacherem beginnen, um den Drucker auf dein Druckmaterial einzutunen und ideale Einstellungen zu finden. Möglicherweise sind gewisse Objekte auch so klein, dass sie gar nicht mehr gedruckt werden -> In Cura die "Layer View" verwenden, und prüfen, ob das Modell überhaupt durchgehend gesliced wird. Mit Raft habe ich zudem noch nie gedruckt - in den meisten Fällen ist die "Brim" option von Cura besser als Raft geeignet.

There are many RepRap shops selling "M8 hobbed bolts for Wade's Extruder Drive". I never bought one of these myself (I'm designing my own extruder drive using MK8 drive wheels), but I suppose these are what you're looking for.

I think I WANT ONE, AND I'M GOING TO HEADBUTT IT ALL DAY!! (I'm playing through ME3 again, after being disappointed by DA:I) Is the model available somewhere?

A few links that I bookmarked on that subject: http://trains.socha.com/2013/10/3dr-simple-delta-printer-firmware.html http://minow.blogspot.ch/index.html#4918805519571907051 http://wp.boim.com/?p=67 (I found this especially useful for understanding what's actually happening in the delta-bot geometry) Maybe some of the information there will help you. I'm not there yet, so I don't have any personal experience to help you with...

Dein erster Link ist genau das, was ich gemeint habe! Müsstest du im Baumarkt finden (Marke ist wohl egal). Der zweite Link ist ein 2K-Klebstoff. Typischerweise muss man die beiden Komponenten im richtigen Mischverhältnis zusammenfügen (also von beidem etwas auf ein Stück Karton geben und gut vermischen), und dann auftragen. Der ist dann ähnlich zähflüssig wie Zahnpasta. Bei der Spraydose funktioniert das etwas anders. Da ist im Boden der Dose ein Ring, den muss man herausziehen und drehen (genaue Anweisung auf Dose lesen, hab's eventuell vertauscht). Dadurch werden die zwei Komponenten in der Dose vermischt. Sehr gut schütteln, dann einfach wie gewohnt sprayen. Typischerweise kann man 2K-Spraylack nach dem Ziehen des Rings nur wenige Stunden nutzen - der Lack beginnt ab dann auszuhärten. Ach ja: Dieser Spraylack ist auch ein super Klebstoff - sollte man auf keinen Fall in der Wohnung sprayen, und auf die Kleidung aufpassen. Ich würde ausserdem Handschuhe und lange Ärmel tragen, sonst hast du für ein paar Tage verklebte Arme /edit: Uhr und Schmuck würde ich auch ablegen - Wo 2K Lack hinkommt, da bleibt er auch...

Acrylic: It depends on your construction: If you have some sort of frame (for example aluminum extrusion profiles) that holds the panels, you can go with thin sheets, 2-3mm. If you need the sheets to be self-supporting, you should go for 5mm panels. Glass: Depends a lot on the material - there's brittle glass and there's strong glass... Also, good glass panels have a coating to prevent them from shattering. If you use these, you can take thin sheets. But just regular mineral glass? I wouldn't use that at all... Acrylic sheets should be able to handle temperatures around 100°C, while PET is more like around 70°C. But your air temperature can't go over 50°C anyways or you'll risk damaging the electronics and motors of your printer. 50°C air temperature is already a very high temperature for these electronics to work in. Usually, it's more like "almost 40°C" in enclosed chambers. It doesn't take that much to make a difference..

Very nice work! I'm too busy with other stuff :( Making a better printer is taking up more of my time than expected...

Glass is perfect if you want to cut yourself (sorry for the pun Didier ) I would use acrylic, because the glass which is cheaper than acrylic is usually the very brittle stuff. You can't cut it yourself, except if you have special tools for that purpose. Good window glass (maybe 4-5mm thick?), framed with aluminum extrusion profiles and sealed with silicone is of course better than an acrylic frame, but that's going to be very heavy and expensive. I'd stick to acrylic... /edit: You do need to be able to cut stuff like the opening for the fan / filter. You can't just use rectangular panels off-the-shelf, without cutting them to shape. /edit2: Just remembered, I bought a 0.9mm thick PET-sheet for a similar purpose. It's easy to cut, but very strong. It's also cheap. You can buy it in DIY stores. It's most commonly used to temporarily cover broken windows or other makeshift coverings around the house. /edit3: Don't know if you can lasercut the PET sheet. But it's more suitable for hand-tools than acrylic. Lasercutting could work (doesn't contain chlorine - shouldn't be a health issue), you have to ask in a FabLab (or wherever you'd lasercut stuff).

Hm... Wahrscheinlich reicht eine einfache Lackierung. Süsswasser oder Salzwasser? Bei Salzwasser müsstest du darauf achten, dass der Lack dagegen resistent ist. Würde ich beim Kaufen nachfragen. Du könntest natürlich auch Silikongummi nehmen (gibt's im Baumarkt), oder Plasti-Dip (gibt's bei Conrad). Die "ultimative" Lackierung: 2-Komponenten Epoxy Spraylack. Teuer wie Sau, aber das Ergebnis ist eine sehr widerstandsfähige Schutzschicht.

Ah, no I see it. Maybe the producer used standard solder which came loose and caused the failure? Not all heaters are made for temperatures above 200°C (even though the fiber glass insulation suggests it..) You can still use crimping ferrules, no need to twist the wires. It's better, but not necessary to twist them. Just place both the wire and the cartridge pin inside the ferrule and crimp it hard

I'm having problems writing comments (to an idea, not sure if it matters...). When I click the "create comment" button, nothing happens. Of course, I clicked it 3 or 4 times, which in the end got the comment posted 4 times. This sucks a little bit (because everyone who's following the topic got 4 notifications...). I'm using Firefox (33.1).

Was meinst du genau mit isolieren? Abdichten (wasserdicht machen)? Elektrisch isolieren - PLA ist ein elektrischer Isolator. Wegen der geringen Schmelztemperatur würde ich es allerdings nicht für die Isolation von Kabeln o.ä. empfehlen. ..

As George already mentioned - soldering anything that close to the heater cartridge is not an option - Unless you find high-temperature soldering tin, which is not only difficult to find but also difficult to work with. You could use crimping ferrules instead: Twist the wires together, put a ferrule (thin metal "tube") over the spot and crimp it with pliers. This way you don't need to solder anything and the solution is high-temperature resistant. The ferrules I linked above are probably too small (they're meant for the thermistor wires, not the heater), but you'll find them in any electronics components shop. I usually recommend Mouser electronics. While you're shopping, you should also get heat-resistant insulators, for example these from Alpha-wire (check which diameter you need). That's more or less what the heater wires are usually insulated with. I just did a quick search here, you might find something more suitable (cheaper?).

I plan on using Megatronics v3 (laying around...) and Cooldrv DRV8825 drivers. Note that I have a lot more space for the electronics in my build than the 3DR. My build is not yet working, as I'm currently caught up in designing my own electronics platform for 3D printers. Will get back to it when I'm waiting for the prototypes to arrive. But don't expect much to happen about these electronics in the next few months. It will take me a long time to complete that project. I might show some pictures of the prototypes, but programming the firmware will take it's time (a year, maybe two?). The point where I'm currently stalled is that I need a fixture for the effector rods to allow me to glue them all to the exact same length. I'll have that fixture made from lasercut aluminum but don't want to place an order just for the one part. So, as soon as the next few parts are lined up, I'll be able to continue. /edit: Oh, and by the way: Dragon Age: Inquisition will be released tomorrow, so I might be delayed a little longer... o.O

Strange, I didn't have any problems with that blue fanduct. It sits firmly on my E3Dv6. I only noticed that you have to mount the fanduct to the hotend FIRST, and then mount the fan to it. This way it's much easier to get the mount on without damaging anything (especially the fan...). Btw, nice mount Chrisp! My current design is a lot more primitive - I made a "minimal" construction for lightweight, but the printed parts are ridiculously lightweight anyways, so I doubt it'll matter much.

The high motor torque will probably be useful at higher speeds - when rapid change-of-direction is needed without losing any steps. I wouldn't say that such strong motors are needed (it takes less force to move the axes than on a UM, at least when I compare my build against my UMO), but I'm not really an expert here. The electronics platform (and firmware) used will definitely make a big impact in how well certain motors perform. Acceleration profiles, stepper driver technology and current setting are at least as important as using a suitable motor. You shouldn't use strong motors with weak drivers, nor use strong drivers and set them to a very low current for weak motors.

Can't tell you if they'll work or not... You'll just have to try. Kinda stupid that all wires are the same color. Maybe you should dial down the motor current a bit when you try them out. I bought my last batch of steppers from digi-key. Trinamic QSH4218-51-10-049. They're insanely expensive (40 EUR per piece) but are the strongest motors Trinamic offers. I could've probably chosen weaker ones, but I'll see that as soon as I get to test them.

It's a standard USB2.0 Type A to Type B cable. Typically used for larger USB devices, such as printers or scanners. You can get one at any consumer electronics / multimedia store. /edit: There should be a cable included with the Ulticontroller kit. So you could (should) also report that to the Ultimaker Support and will probably get one from them. Sorry, over-read that it's a used machine...

I'm almost ready to hook it up, too. Just assembled the belts & carriages. I'm now only missing the effector, material feeder (bowden-fed), endstops and electronics. I'll try to have the thing moving (not working, but moving) by the end of the week. We'll see about that...

welcome aboard What electronics are you planning to use? I've got a Megatronics v3 laying around that I'll try to hook up to my Delta. Might also try the Smoothieboard which might be more suitable due to the higher processing capability...