jonnybischof

That's exactly what I'm afraid of here I noticed the leading holes for the linear shafts are a little bit too large on my prototype - but I might have to re-think that design anyways. It looked better in Sketchup than in reality..

Wenn alle Stricke reissen: Ich drucke XT auf eine PEI Platte bei 62°C (plus minus 5°C, ist nicht kalibriert...) ohne irgendwelche Kleber, Lösungsmittel oder Tapes. Funktioniert bestens - klebt auf der heissen PEI Platte, löst sich praktisch von selbst, wenn die Platte komplett abgekühlt ist. Bei XT ist mir aufgefallen, dass die erste Schicht enorm wichtig ist: - Wenn die Düse zuviel Abstand zur Plattform hat, dann haftet das XT nicht, weil es nicht genug stark auf die Platte gedrückt wird. - Umgekehrt haftet es auch nicht, wenn die Düse zu nah an der Plattform liegt, und das Material zur Seite weggedrückt wird. In dem Fall lösen sich gerne ganze Teile der ersten Schicht ab. Fazit: Plattform sehr genau ausrichten. Nicht nur das levelling, sondern auch die Distanz zur Düse. Ich drucke ausserdem immer mit 0.3mm Schichtdicke für die erste Lage. Das vergrössert die Fehlertoleranz.

In my experience, UM's filament is rather low quality (or standard quality). Not comparable to quality filaments like Diamond Age or Faberdashery. Of course there is also a noticeable difference in prices...

Maybe your Z-shafts are bent? I've seen some Ultimaker shafts that were anything but straight... That would explain the uneven friction across the z-length. Btw, I've gotten smoother and quieter movement on my current buildm now that I've corrected the spacing. It's still rather loud, but doesn't hurt to listen to it anymore...

It sounds like some misalignment between the shafts and the bearings (usually incorrect spacing, or something might be twisted). I'm dealing with the same problem on my UM build, but I'm using four bearings which seems to make four times the trouble :(

Finally I got all the lasered metal parts (except for a decorative piece that I just forgot to order - no clue why...) and started to build the frame. I only put up one tower for now because I still have to do a lot of corrections on some printed parts. For now, it seems I'll have a very solid frame with the awesome Misumi profiles and the massive 4mm aluminum sheets in the bottom and the top. What bugs me is that the linear bearings are very loud when travelling on the shafts. One bearing alone is nearly silent, but inside the carriage it's pretty bad. I noticed the shaft spacing on the printed carriage is 0.3mm too small (shrinkage). Correcting that now - but the carriage still moves easily but makes a lot of noise. It could be the "all metal" construction which generates these resonance noises. Do you have that problem on the 3DR as well?

Does this measure the width in 2 dimensions, or the actual circular area of the filament? Because if you only measure the 2D-width, you have a pretty much worthless setup -> What about filament which is not perfectly round (which it never is)? You can have a filament which has exactly the correct circular area of 2.85mm filament (which is Pi * r^2 =~ 3.14 * 1.425^2 =~ 6.38 mm2) but is slightly oval. If you take a 2D measurement of that oval filament, you might measure 2.9mm (or 2.7mm if you get the flatter side) and compensate for an inexistent error... Besides that: Getting exactly the correct amount of flow isn't critical for most prints. You usually don't even notice errors of about +-5% or even more. /edit: A partial solution would be to measure the 2D width from several angles and taking the average of the measured widths. But that makes the sensor very complex - it's hardly going to be worth the effort. Imho, what makes much more sense is to have a sensor which checks whether or not the filament is actually feeding, or just grinding on the spot. This can be done very easily (most probably it has already been done...) and gives valuable information about the print's status.

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlormethan#Sicherheitshinweise Ich persönlich würde die Finger von dem Zeug lassen. Aber mit den richtigen Vorsichtsmassnahmen und richtigem Umgang dürfte es keine Probleme geben.

Also ich wäre bereit für eine Sammelbestellung. Eilig habe ich es nicht, es geht mir eigentlich nur um eine Erweiterung meines Farben-Sortiments Und ich brauche neues - brauchbares - schwarzes Filament, weil IMPLA einfach nur schlecht ist. Habe Martin's Rollenhalter mit IMPLA gedruckt. Einen Gewindeteil am Hauptrohr habe ich aus Versehen abgebrochen. Wenn ich den Deckel so aufschrauben würde, wie ich das mit jedem anderen PLA täte, dann würde das ganze Ding einfach auseinanderbrechen. Das hält dermassen schlecht dass man die damit gedruckten Teile kaum brauchen kann. Ausserdem habe ich herausgefunden, dass Diamond Age (standard-)PLA nicht nur das beste, sondern auch das günstigste Druckmaterial in meinem Sortiment ist

Radiallüfter sind typischerweise nicht ganz so einfach zu finden. Es gibt natürlich teure Industrielüfter und billige Chinalüfter (z.B. bei Ebay). Ich würde 2 ganz normale Axiallüfter nehmen, wie schon erwähnt.

Sag doch einfach, dass man den Lüftern etwas mehr Platz geben muss, damit sie richtig laufen Habe gehört, dass es viel bringen soll, wenn man dem UM solche Füsschen verpasst. übrigens, du willst die beiden Lüfter nicht parallel, sondern in Serie schalten. Da der Lüfteranschluss 19V raus gibt (mit dem Originalnetzteil), kannst du die Lüfter in serie (einer nach dem anderen) an den Anschluss hängen. Damit teilen sich die Lüfter die 19V in jeweils 9.5V. Bitte unbedingt zwei identische Lüfter nehmen, sonst funktioniert das nicht. Es ist zwar nicht besonders sauber, aber es funktioniert. Beide parallel an 19V geht mit den meisten Lüftern auch, allerdings werden die meisten Lüfter dann ziemlich laut.

Yeah, it's a high-pitched noise, although I think that even old people like you guys ( ) should be able to hear that... I did use 1/32 microstepping, didn't try any other modes until now. I couldn't stand that noise

Maybe the drivers overheat at 1500 mA which makes them lose power? I'm not that much an expert on motors & currents - having worked mostly with professional drivers that took care of that question automatically. The only time I actuall had to set a motor current was when I had to set up a test stand for flexible cables. It was a larger motor (maybe NEMA23 or something) and a heavier moving setup. The thing was, that I could find the best suitable current just by listening to it. Of course - current too low means no operation, but there was actually a very wide range where the machine would "work". BUT, there was a difference in how the thing sounded when changing current. The more current I gave it, the louder the motor got. There were also some unusual sounds when setting the current too low (like stuttering, probably also some skipped steps). So, I found the sweet spot by just listening to it and finding the spot where the machine sounded "happy". I've only just started toying with the NEMA17 motors and pololu drivers (which I hate so much ), and haven't had time to go in-depth there. Got myself an easy stepper from reprap.me to make some tests, but I found my cooldrv DRV8825 drivers to produce a very annoying whistle with it, while the UMO drivers are silent but get insanely hot within seconds. I'll be putting some work into making better drivers sometime in the next weeks because I see there's definitely a need for it.

You probably don't, unless you want to overheat the electronics... If it is possible to set a higher current (that depends on how the reference voltage that sets the current on the driver IC is made), then you'll have to find and change the maximum current value in the source code and change it. Limits are usually hard-coded into Marlin's configuration.h

Die Stepper Treiber werden schon arg heiss (vor allem beunruhigend schnell), ich würde da etwas kräftigeres verbauen, vor allem etwas, was direkt auf die Treiber bläst. Es gibt ein besseres Design mit zwei Lüftern. Müsste man in den Tiefen von Thingiverse suchen...

Now you just have to hard-code that into the Makerbot machine preset so that it'll always put this on the build plate before printing

Looks nice. Not cheap, but it seems to be well-made. The 3 buttons for probing are an interesting idea, I was thinking of trying out something similar, in case manual levelling turns out to be annoying (which it shouldn't be). /edit: Misumi order will arrive thursday. I CAN'T WAIT :shock:

I've seen RichRap's adaptors. They look bulky, but they might be even lighter than my screws... I chose the steel hardware mainly because of the stiffness (and the sleek look). But then I realised that the balljoints themselves aren't stiff at all... You can bend them by hand :( I'll see how it all turns out.. Meanwhile I found a source for round heaters: http://www.ultibots.com/kapton-heaters/ (been searching for a while...) They have full 170mm diameter kits, and other stuff needed to build a delta printer. They have good international shipping options so I didn't mind the parcel going half way around the world.

I'm not sure how the current control works on the UM2 electronics. There are no potentiometers - so it's either a fixed current setup or they actually control that in firmware. Maybe someone else who has an UM2 knows more about it..

I'm putting together the effector rods: This is how I did it: 1. tap an M3 hole into the ball joint (or not - you can also just screw in the headless bolt. But it's nicer if you have a clean thread) 2. Take an M3 x 16mm headless bolt and screw it into the ball joint (8mm deep, so that 8mm stick out). I put some glue into the hole so that it wouldn't come loose again (ever). 3. Make sure the carbon fiber rod is cut straight and clean (I had to sand it down to get a clean edge). Then put some glue into the carbon fiber rod and push the ball joint in. 4. Let it dry long enough! Araldite Rapid takes about 48 hours to cure all the way in this configuration! (depending on air humidity it can take up to a week). BOM: Effector rods and ball joints from robotdigg.com (very recommendable shop!) You can buy an actual headless screw (recommended) or just behead an M3x16 screw. Araldite Rapid - alternatively use any fast-curing 2-component epoxy glue. I noticed that the headless bolts I'm using are actually the heaviest part of this assembly (carbon fiber rods are awesome ). It's still very lightweight, but I wonder "how" lightweight it should be, and at what point the weight would become a problem. That also concerns the effector itself and the linear carriages (probably more than the effector rods...) Is there any resource / advice on how much weight there should be? Of course it's easy to say "make it as light as possible", but stiffness is just as important as light weight... By the way: I'll make my effector rods 220mm long (ball joint's hole to hole). Circular bed with 170mm diameter. The towers are 205mm away from the platform's center (carriage fixing point is around 180mm away from the center). I have no clue how well that's going to work out. I guess I'll just try and see Building materials for the frame should arrive by the end of the week, will keep you posted

Die Lüfter, welche UM verwendet, sind einfach nur ultrabilliger Mist. Kann auch sein, dass die Lager nicht für kopfüber-Montage geeignet sind. Bei billigen Lüftern kommt das häufig vor, dass sie nur in einer bestimmten Einbaurichtung langlebig sind. Die meisten 12V PC-Lüfter sollten auch bei 19V laufen. Natürlich sind sie dabei stärker / lauter als bei 12V. Es kann auch sein, dass sie kaputt gehen - ich würd also nicht den teuersten Silent-Lüfter dafür kaufen. Man kann natürlich auch so eine billig-Lüftersteuerung mit Drehpoti verwenden, um die Spannung am Lüfter zu senken. Bei meinem UM1 röchelt immer noch das Original vor sich hin. Da er in der Werkstatt steht, stört es kaum. Aber für eine Wohnung wäre das unerträglich.

Spontan würde ich das mit Araldite (Expoxy 2-Komponentenkleber) probieren. Es gibt den schnellhärtenden (Rapid) und den normalen (Standard oder sowas), wobei der normale ca. eine Stunde "Verarbeitungszeit" hat. Araldite ist "honigviskos", ergibt extrem stabile Verklebungen und ist vor allem wasserfest. Salzwasser dürfte meines Wissens nach auch kein Problem sein. Es gibt noch jede Menge anderer Epoxy 2-Komponentenkleber. Die dürften auch passen. Araldite ist halt das Original.

:shock:

Also Faberdashery kommt für mich mit Porto und Währungskonvertierung teurer als das PLA von der letzten Sammelbestellung hier. Und das ist noch ohne Zollrechnung

Ach ja, gibt's bei Diamond Age nicht Mengenrabatte für 100m Rollen? Club-Packungen nennen sie das glaube ich. Das könnte sich doch fast eher lohnen, nicht? Bei unseren Sammelbestellungen dürfte durchaus das eine oder andere Club-Pack drin liegen (Meine nächste Bestellung dürfte etwas grösser werden als die letzte...)