ahoeben

Bwa, external holder for the pen... Wouldn't it be a nice idea to use that spare hole in the head? You know, that set of holes that will not be used any time soon?

@rooiejoris, I don't know if you can edit the body text of the kickstarter page once it has launched, but I noticed it has a different price in the text for the XXL early bird option.

On my non-heated bed, I often fix a print with instable (thin, high) parts to the bed with a couple of blobs of PVA glue after a couple of layers. Works a treat.

Aww, just when I received my heated bed kit... Any reason why this would not work with a heated bed? Extension cables would be needed somewhere I guess.

Ooh, nice. I'm tempted to jump in and experiment, but I won't have time until april.

260C for bronzefill, are you sure? I print (and copperfill) at 205C-210C (which is much closer to what ColorFabb recommends)

With all the talk about tumblers for polishing here, you would almost forget about elbowgrease. These two were polished the oldfashioned way:

That was me, I guess. http://instagram.com/p/ps5UKQxYyz I filled in the hole in the head, and sanded out most of the lines. The material is very sandable. Most PLA/PHA colors from ColorFabb are less glossy than your average PLA. This seems to have changed about a year ago, because the sample-pack I ordered a long time ago has much more glossy filaments than the spools I ordered recently. The mask was printed with "recent" PLA/PHA. Especially when sanded, the print feels almost chalk-ish.

No teflon problems sofar, but I did take extra care not to leave the material in the heated hotend so heat can't creep up. It makes perfect sense that this could be a problem, because copper is more heat conductive than bronze (and certainly more conductive than pla).

The model (nicknamed "punthoofd") is my universal testbed model, designed to print fast. It is a spiralised print, and prints in 35-ish minutes on my UMO. I still have to get around to fixing the hole in the head (which is a fundamental issue with spiralising, not so much a printing problem).

Here's my first print with copperfill: Compared to bronzefill: In my (limited) experience it takes a bit more elbow-grease to get copperfill to shine, but when it shines, it is more reflective than bronzefill. The copperfill print seems to be slightly softer than the bronzefill one. Edit: Compared to the official photo above, the unpolished print looks a different for me. The color is - for a lack of a better description - a bit more belony (leverworst) color; more pink, less yellow.

Not true. Some fans blow

Found this application that optimises the placement of many parts to be printed simultaneously: https://github.com/RobotsWar/Plater Would be nice to have something similar in Cura, because it can be quite a challenge to place multiple objects that push eachother off the buildplate.

Just type 'pip list' in a terminal.

How about a heated bed kit upgrade party? Attendees could order a kit and you bring it to Utrecht...

The connectors are commonly refered to as JST connectors, but it may be tricky to find the correct ones. The bits that you crimp around the wires are called connector contacts. http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals?isRedirect=true

The weight is such a nice feature of the material. Once you are done polishing, you will also notice that the object will feel colder to the touch. Not as cold as if it were 100% bronze, but colder than normal pla prints.

Personally I get good results with steel pot scrubbers ("rvs pannenspons") and lots of elbow grease. Finer steelwool just desintegrates, but the pot-scrubber works for me. You get a slight silverish finish, because you are depositing a bit of the steel onto the object. When I am done scrubbing, I use Brasso metal-polish on a soft cloth. This serves to remove the silver-ish shine, and really brings out the bronze. Make sure you polish off as much of the Brasso as possible, because it will tarnish the bronze. Then again, the tarnished look helps making it look like bronze again...

Postprocessing prints: Support removal, sanding, polishing, smoothing. Chemicals, tumblers, etc.

It was good to hear some of the solid reasoning behind the colorfabb material choices. For some time now, I have been hoping for a PLA/ABS hybrid (combining low-shrinkage from PLA with smoothability from ABS) but now I know why it won't come from Colorfabb (styrenes are baaad). I'm looking forward to using more metal-fill filaments. Bronzefill really made me "fall in love" with my printer all over again. If I could suggest something to set Colorfabb apart from many (if not all) other filament producers, it would be a line of colored matte (non-glossy) filaments. High gloss accentuates surface imperfections, and hopefully a non-glossy surface would be sandable.

@ultibrain, I would love to catch a ride. How late will you be at S'dam central?

Aw, snap... I'm not going to be able make it :-(

One idea for more "interactive"/workshop-like activities during the event is postprocessing prints. Polishing bronzefill, sanding PLA/PHA etc. Also it might be a good idea to bring lots of reinforced teflon parts, because Colorfabb is going to release new (non-transparent, colored) XT filaments that print at the same high temperature. I'll have two of those parts please... Daid, did you finish the cookies you got last time yet?

At the ulti-evening I tried freezing my buildplate to make the nutella less droopy once printed. Should have used liquid nitrogen: http://3dprint.com/9148/3d-printed-ice-cream/

I would think that dipping chocolate for icecream could make for a quick setting material. You know, the type that instantly hardens when you poor it over icecream. I found a recipe that refers to it as "Magic Shell": http://www.thekitchn.com/make-chocolate-magic-shell-ice-cream-topping-with-only-2-ingredients-171745 Yesterday I tried if we could make the nutella a bit less runny by placing the buildplate in a freezer for an hour or so. This did not really work (the perspex material did not seem to have a high heat capacity and warmed back up rather quick), but I think there is merrit in a chilled buildplate for pasteprinting. A "frozen" slab of aluminum would have worked better.