Dim3nsioneer

@dubtec: If you solved your problem in the meantime, just forget about the following. I had today the situation that the hotend temperature was fluctuating quite a lot. The result was a print that looked quite like yours. I then remounted the contacts of the hotend thermocouple on the amplifier print on top of the print head. After that, temperature was stable again and the next print of the same model came out perfect. Maybe this information can be of some help to you.

What does output.txt say?

I got this message as well in earlier versions of Cura when two versions were open in parallel. Not immediately but after some time...

Sorry for the delay, I was off during lunchtime... -_- Everything works fine on my notebook (Asus ) with the GCODE view. It even started from the bottom when the gcode was loaded. No ghosts, nothing off-normal... If you have administrator privileges on that notebook, you may want to check if you can update the display drivers...

Works the same way on my notebook. It's indeed a bit strange. But very fast!

I had a similar effect once or twice on my UM1. It happens less if you change it at lower temperature, 180°C worked quite well for me while I got this stranding above 200°C.

The new Makerbot Replicator has one clear disadvantage and that's the build height of 6 inches. That's the only thing Makerbot cannot improve over the next one or two years for the very same model. The Smart Extruder as they call it can easily replaced. Even by a dual extruder if they develop one. Or by one capable of printing ABS. It already has a heated platform and to add an enclosure should not be that difficult. But some people here in the forum are currently working on a swapable extruder even for the UM1. Another feature of the new Replicator, the out-of-filament-check, is also very nice. I think a future product from Ultimaker may also include such a feature. But it would be even better if the printer would not just realise when it has already run out of filament but a few meters before (I now that's going to be difficult but hey, this is the UM forum where the (nearly) impossible is made possible... ). About the UI knob they are so proud of: Have a look at the UM2... :wink:

UPDATE2: Found another bug... a known one I thought it was already fixed. When doing a one-after-the-other print of two objects with brim, for the second object it begins somewhere in the middle of the brim and first goes inwards then completes the outermost lines of the brim.

UPDATE: I just found something quite serious: Did you change the EOL-character in the generated GCODE? It's now kind of a mess on a Windows machine (everything in one line). And the TweakAtZ plugin was not executed at the layer I specified (I will have to check the GCODE on the SDCard after the current print finishes, on the PC, the GCODE includes the TweakAtZ information); this might be related to the EOL character. EDIT (10:37): Forget about the plugin, it works fine if a reasonable input is made... :shock: (means: my fault).

Hi Daid The speed of the new layer view is amazing! I have one thing you may want to consider. But it's not related to the GUI, so you can move that to a later version if you like. The flow percentage in the basic settings tab directly affects the amount of filament used with the E-argument in the G1 lines. Right now there actually two inputs (flow percentage and filament diameter) which scale the amount of filament used in Cura. However, as TweakAtZ is now part of the package, it might be an idea to let Cura insert a M221 instead of changing the E-argument directly. If it's done in this way, then e.g. 90% flow in Cura would correspond to 90% in the TweakAtZ plugin. What do you think?

Unless you are a woman. They can do that. At least they pretend to...

So it comes back to cooling of the UM board. Although it has a powerful radial fan, the fan duct is quite - uhm - suboptimal... Just for completing the picture: The other way round (12V instead of 19V) shouldn't be a problem? As I will (hopefully soon) implement my heated bed with a 12V additional PS, it might become a topic for me to reduce to one PS.

It seems to work again - I just uploaded successfully three pictures...

What I did to test qualitatively for backlash was to push and pull at the print head with steppers ON. Not with brute force of course. Ideally you should not be able to move it when applying reasonable force. The other test you can do (if not done already) is to push the print head around with steppers OFF. You should be able to push the head with your little finger. If you're not, then at least one of the long belts is too tight. I don't have the short belts anymore due to direct drive but I remember having the tension of the short belts in the range you just described; they should be ok. If you got your UM Original as a kit, you may have received some silver colored grub screws. They are replacements for the black grub screws of the pulleys and are supposed to give a tighter grip if I'm not wrong. If you haven't replaced them, it might be a good time to do now.

Thank you! Probably...

Ganz so schlimm wie links in dem Bild war es zwar bei mir auch ohne direct drive nie, aber das rechts ist schon das Resultat. Kegelzahnräder wären durchaus eine Variante, da sie wenig Spiel haben. Allerdings müssten sie vor Staubablagerungen geschützt werden, was wiederum etwas problematisch mit der Abwärme der Motoren wäre (im Fall, dass die Abdeckung um Zahnräder und Motoren herum geht). Ich möchte in Zukunft ev. auch das ganze Bauvolumen zumachen können (Stichwort heated chamber). Spätestens dann müssen die Motoren dann ausserhalb des Druckers sein weil sie sonst zu warm bekommen. Und Du hattest ja nach einem Bild meiner hässlichen Schönheit gefragt: Ach ja, falls Du Dich fragst, was der UM gerade auf dem Bild druckt:

Still not working here... edit: @Robert: Maybe some authorization issue? You certainly have different permissions than other users...

Thanks for confirming!

Has anyone recently uploaded any image to the gallery? I just get a server error message... for any picture, with both uploaders, for Firefox and IE (yes, if you're very desperate, you even try IE...) edit: I was able to create new empty albums...

Sounds very promising... :-P

Also bei mir bringt der UM1-Direktantrieb extrem viel, nämlich eine hervorragende Printqualität. Ich hatte vorher immer mit den kurzen Antriebsriemen gekämpft, das ist jetzt vorbei. Und seither werden die Löcher einfach rund. Aber Du hast Recht was das Aussehen angeht. Mein UM1 sieht im Prinzip inzwischen extrem hässlich aus. Mich stört das nicht; ich will ein Gerät, das Top-Ausdrucke macht und keinen Eye-Catcher (ganz nach dem Motto 'Schönheit liegt im Auge des Betrachters'). Aber die Anforderungen sind natürlich nicht bei jedem gleich...

Sorry, I didn't see Ian's post when I wrote mine...

If the diameter of your filament is close to 3mm, I may check if there is more friction in the Bowden tube when the print head is at the 'underextrusion site'.

Daid, you probably want to shoot me on the moon after reading this post... But: What about creating a completely new settings tab for dual extrusion? I guess dual extrusion has some future, also with the UM2, hasn't it?

Hmmm... I think it's not especially dry in a fridge. I would rather put it in a (convection) stove and heat it a reasonable temperature (40°C?).