Dim3nsioneer

I've a sharp one! And it's really nice for tayloring the first layer, especially when with brim. And it's a lot less dangerous than a normal knive... so it may be something for Ian as well...? But it has its restriction for very small holes... :(

As I might soon be in a similar situation: Is it rather a question of print time to clean the nozzle from ABS (high probability for the remaining ABS to get proceeded) or does the amount of used filament (e.g. the printing speed / the feedrate) also matter in the described procedure?

I subscribed to the repository so I will see it if something changes. But it's of course Arne Durr/D-Bytes privilege to report here about a new feature he wrote the code for.

drayson, thanks for posting this question here. I was thinking about doing these changes myself, but I'm happy to see now that D-Byte already made the changes and has issued a pull-request to Erik. I just checked this request (no. 656). It's still open but obviously quite close to being updated. I'm looking forward to these new possibilities!

1) It's Aaron who is the most efficient in collecting likes... Nearly one like every three posts...impressive! Imagine what happens if this man finally receives an Ultimaker! 3) Rumour has it that it is actually Daid's cat who is writing all the posts... :lol: So, who is your ghostwriter, gr5?

Hey guys Recently I saw some interesting statistics from the Olympic Winter Games in Sotchi. Of course there were the standard statistics (which country has the most gold medals, silver medals, etc.). And then there was a medal efficiency calculation. The number of medals won was divided once by the number of athletes from each country and once by the number of participations at competitions of all the athletes from each contry. And guess which contry was best... the Netherlands, land of Ultimaker... :-P I just allowed myself to calculate some numbers such as number of likes divided by the number of posts to get a 'like efficiency'. Ian, Robert, I have to say, although you're not on top in these statistics you're at least ex aequo... :wink: So don't worry...

Of course you have to buy golden filament and print it yourself! :-)

I just had the same effect. But I know it's comming from my anti-virus software which is checking every new application on first start-up. As CuraEngine on first slicing. Having moved the object a bit (invoking new slicing process) showed it works on second start-up. @mastory, btw: You're not referring to the posted picture as Windows 7 aren't you? Looks rather like WinXP with classic style. Might that be a source for graphics related issues?

Yes, it does. Thxs! :smile:

We are not talking about the same side of the PSU. I'm talking about the primary side (230VAC). The consumption of the stepper motor itself certainly is as Daid pointed out. But on the way to the motor current quite some power is lost in the electronics (dissipated heat) by voltage regulation and current control respectively. If it wouldn't be that way, the stepper drivers would not have to be actively cooled.

Would you mind to disclose your PVA source? You might have it exactly from the place where I read about the non-fan-thing...

Very important point, foehnsturm! :smile: So one possibility might be not to close sides and front completely but just up to the nozzle height. Maybe it doesn't even need a fan for the cold zone? Maybe forced convection by the hot zone fan and natural convection due to temperature difference is enough? What about a slit at the bottom where cold air could leave the box?

David, Could you please make sure that for next RC/final version all brims are printed strictly from the outside to the inside? For multiple objects it sometimes starts from the inside. As the start of a brim is often not perfect, there are gaps between brim and object and the effect of the brim is gone. I lost another print yesterday to this effect. thx Stefan

Im Dual Extrusion Kit hast Du sicher alles drin, was Du für den Dual Extruder brauchst (es gilt natürlich dasselbe wie beim Drucker-Kit: Packliste sofot überprüfen!). Ich habe mir auch schon überlegt, ein paar Ersatzteile anzuschaffen (z.B. Zahnriemen oder Düsen), aber bis auf Ersatzdüsen (allerdings nicht von UM :ph34r: ) habe ich bisher nichts dazugekauft. Hängt natürlich davon ab, ob der Drucker auch mal ausfallen darf oder nicht. Sei Dir beim Dual Extruder einfach bewusst, dass er offiziell immer noch experimentell ist. Bei mir äussert sich das v.a. darin, dass ich ziemlich viel Aufwand betreiben musste, um die Vermischung der beiden Filamente so klein wie möglich hinzubekommen.

I just managed to switch off the not selected stepper in Marlin. The power consumption indeed droped from 160W to 140W...

Might be it's intended. But looks a bit strange. If this is the price for the fast GUI, I can live with it. Example: layer 14: layer 20:

Fixed for next update. [...] The brims seem ok now in layer view of RC4, but there is now a similar effect with the infill, also for just one object.

Newer Marlin (firmware) versions have a more comfortable sound programmed. You get it e.g. via marlinbuilder.robotfuzz com.

There is a small update (bugfix) for the TweakAtZ plugin. Reset of the flow rate was not working properly. The new version 3.1.1 is available on the Wiki page (see link above).

Issue of RC3: If machine settings are changed while a print-one-at-a-time situation with multiple objects is ready, the print mode is somehow switched to print-all-at-once internally while the selection in the tools menu stays the same.

Issue of RC3: When displaying multiple objects in layer view, some brims disappear. They reappear at some point when sliding through the layers. In this view, all objects should have a brim:

I made the test with my UM1 today and disconnected the cable comming from the UM arduino shield on the amplifier board. The result was pretty much the same as Jonny described it. I get the max temp error if I disconnect a wire from the thermocouple on the amplifier board.

Wenn Du den Fan schrittweise hochfahren möchtest, dann einfach die 0.5mm in die Expert Config von Cura eintragen (bei 'fan full at'). Wenn Du bis zu den 0.5mm gar kein Fan und danach 100% haben möchtest, dann hilft Dir das TweakAtZ-Plugin.

Spoiler alert!

A PT100 doesn't need that modification. If the connection breaks, the electronics sees infinite resistance which results in the highest possible temperature. And this will certainly trigger an error message and a switch-off of the hotend.