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drayson

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Everything posted by drayson

  1. Leute, jetzt bekomm ich fast Angst ... Lagere einige Rollen jetzt schon unbenutzt einige Monate eng gepackt mit meinen Gelpacks. Ausserdem hab ich seit Mai noch ein paar Rollen original verpackt rumliegen. Ich werd mir das lieber gleich mal anschauen - nicht, dass mir demnächst Brösel entgegenkommen... Ach ja - euch allen schöne Feiertage und die besten Wünsche aus Graz!!
  2. Ok, I got it - so 13.04 is worth to keep it installed, the remaining versions can be updated as soon a new version is available. Btw.: What about this combing feature? It is new in 13.11. - isnt? Saw a few posts with suggestions to disable it. For what is it really for?
  3. Thank you for your replies - I had the impression that beside 13.04. there are several reasons for using the other versions too depending on the task (e.g. because of different support or infill strategies). This was the initial idea behind the question. I guess that there is somewhere a change log or something similar but my intention was to have something like a matrix version vs. feature to get an overview - maybe also with user notes... 13.04. 13.06.04 ....... 13.11.2 Slicer engine Support strategies "Joris" Youmagine ... and so on... unfortuntely I´m not as deep in this topic as I whish to fill in such a list by myself :sad: Anyway - thank you for your input!
  4. Santa....Ähhh.. Dim3nsineer - THANK you !!
  5. Die Lock&Lock sind recht gut geeignet, nur von der Dimension her hab ich lange gesucht und schließlich eine Größe gewählt, bei der ich jeweils eine Standard-UM-Spule und das 0,5kg GelSackerl reinbringe. @ Nicolinux: ich hatte noch jemanden bei ner Verpackungsfirma, der mir einen Gefallen schuldig war... :-)
  6. Hi! Gute Idee! Hab für mein Lager ein paar Lock&Lock bei amazon und ein paar 0,5kg Silica beschafft - klappt auch gut. Langzeittest ist aber noch offen :-) Lg
  7. Hi everybody! I have installed all of the above mentioned versions in parallel but have no idea if it is a good idea to do so... or if it is a good idea to switch always to the latest version... So I´d like to raise a few short questions on that topic: Which version do you prefer and why? Do you change between versions depending on the task/model? If yes, when/why? Which benefits does each version have? Maybe we could create something like a comparison chart? @ Daid - could this also be usefull for your work or do you even have somthing like a comparison chart? b.r. drayson
  8. :-) good point - right... 2 things: 1.) my girlfriend asked if a closure might be better to keep the UM clean - nice offer to start working on something, isnt? 2.) a heated bed will follow after having a solution for a semi-automatic bed leveling. So the closure is the first (low hanging fruit) step...
  9. You're welcome :-) I had the problem that I have no access to a laser cutter - therfore saw and file and a bit of sanding, but now it works really nice. Nevertheless thank you for sharing your files too - guess there will be somebody who need them :-)
  10. Got it... lot of tweaking as usual :-) Thanks for your assistance !
  11. Hi Daid! Thank you for reply! Understud - depending on shape, geometry and "heat flow" the shrinkage of a particular part of the model is different to anoter part of the same model - so can not be considered via just a scaling factor in cura. So best idea would be to print it once, measure it on several points, calculate the deviation, adjust the model itself by the calculated factors and print it a second time with hopefully fitting dimensions... Right?
  12. Hi all, recently I printed a typical 25x25x25 mm test cube BUT.... it has only 24.73x24.75x24.83 I know, this is shrinkage (hopefully) but is there any way to anticipate it? factor in cura? setting of steps? Has anybody deeper knowledge? Any hints are appreciated!! Thanks drayson
  13. Hi again!!! Due to the new fan shroud (see post http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3446-um2-like-fand-duct-for-um1/) I saved a lot of space - so why not easily close the side frames?? To make the closure removable, I used small neodym magnets and simple brackets which I posted on Thingiverse http://www.thingiver...om/thing:202168 I printed two sets, mounted them with glue in the edges of the UM and used some CA to mount the counter magnets onto the acrilic windows. Unfortunaltely its hard to see the transparent "windows" on the picture I made (see the air-hooked post it)... :sad: Nevertheless, it fit´s perfectly !!! PS: next thing: self 3-point-leveling bed... :smile:
  14. Guys, yesterday I found the time and upgraded my UM with the pulleys supplied by foehnsturm. I have to say GREAT!!! @ Foehnsturm: Thank you for providing it - they work like a charm... The belts are running perfectly without "wobbling" and the noise of the whole movement is gone. Definitely every Euro worth... :-)
  15. Oh... read the first post and thought "a emergency stop would be a good idea" but as it shorts everything in the actual configuration... bad... @ Daid, do you think it might be a good idea implement such an emergency stop feature? In case a print fails, hit the button and the filament retracts, the print head goes up by a few mm and homes xy, and the cooldown of nozzle and (if appllied) heated bed is initiated... What do you think?
  16. Ok, got it.... saw that stuff in an article at instructables some time ago to built handles but had no clue that this is PCL... :-)
  17. There is an 3D solid works model of the UM available @ thingiverse - maybe you can find the right dimensions there?
  18. HiHo! I recently uploaded a new cutting pattern @ tingiverse and did some trials with my duct at my UM. Findings: - air flow is much better on all sides, fans work with 50-80% - prints looks good,especially on the "old fanless side" - bridging was not tested up to now as I´d like to rebuilt a few things on my UM first - due to the aluminum material and the close distance to the nozzle, the duct is getting hot nearly everywhere, but prevents the air flow to cool the nozzle itself @ jumpmobile: sorry for late reply - it´s easy to cut such thin sheet metal just using a pair of scissiors (in german "haushaltsschere"); to bend it it´s recommended to use plumber pliers, a solid table wit a streight edge and some metal parts as counterparts for bending - a bit af tweaking and fidling, but shoud work :smile: B.t.w.: Karlsruhe - am KIT??
  19. @ amano, sorry, hatte noch keine Gelegenheit mit dem XT zu experementieren. Werde voraussichtlich erst gegen Weihnachten dazu kommen, nachdem ich einige anstehende Umbauten endlich erledigt habe... :sad: Mit dem PLA von colorfab (sample box) hatte ich aber gute Erfahrungen gemacht...
  20. If that work, could this be an option for printing support structures @ nozzle#2 with it and melt it out just by heating the whole print?
  21. Hi, I would suggest to crosscheck if the distance is equal on all 4 edges of the bed after leveling on 3 points. At my UM1 I had an issue with the side plates, therefore the x and y axis were not parallel/horizontal one edge. so it had more distance and was showing the same result as you mentioned....
  22. Good idea - forgot that completely because the blue tape is necessary to keep the bended parts in their place - not a good idea to bend sheet metal without the right equipment... I will add a BIG note.. Yes, the sheet is bend in a way to seperate airflow and heating block/nozzle. My intention is to avoid cooling the nozzle and get a more stable temperature.
  23. I wired it directly to the stock wiring - just soldered it together to one plug... Hope that the current is not too much. Today I tried it on a simple piece so I have not testing data up to now. I will post it a.s.a.p. and generated a seperate topic here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3446-um2-like-fand-duct-for-um1/ where I will post my findings.
  24. Hi there, my new fan duct design equipped with 4pc. 25x25mm fans (air flow of 3.2m³/h each) as already discussed in thread http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2291-help-with-modifying-fanducts/page-2&do=findComment&comment=25834 is now on test. Big advantage: the side pannels can be closed without having to consider the fan duct space. Can also be found on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:183223 Any comments are appreciated... :-)
  25. ok, was a nice weekend - I managed to cut & bend the fan duct - unfortunatley I had to use blue tape to get it sealed :-( here it is: testing will start soon but I´m looking for something comparable... any ideas?
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