drayson

Hi! Have you modified your Marlin firmware? If not, it can't work as the UM can not interpret the code. There is a Marlin builder available linked in this forum - just use the search function (writing via smartphone so unfortunately can't post the link)

Usually I use Ultimaker PLA and Colorfab PLA. Up to now, only grey and black UM PLA has been used for my two test runs. BTW: Yesterday I got my new alu print plate from the workshop, next steps on weekend are installing it and re-start testing with the glass plate as I don´t want to use printers tape any more with the new setup. I will keep you informed about my findings as I'm happy to get suggestions where to tweak..

As I remenmber from the last test, the PLA don´t stick to the glue so the "PLA-sausage" is basically moved with the nozzle without adhesition to the bed... really a mess... My first thought was off-leveld platform but as I crosschecked it, it was leveled ok. I did it the same approach as with blue tape, there it´s working properly... I will try again hopefuly next weekend (currently my z-stage is desassambled because I´m waiting for a new alu bed with 3-point leveling...)

Thank you for the hint! I will give it a try again :-)

Hi Burki! Honestly, I have to put the notifier on... unfortunaltely missed this post...sorry... In the meantime I gave it a second try. Solution as described 1:3 - maybe a bit thicker. I used a brush to spread the mixture over the whole glass plate which has been cleaned before with alcohol. After drying I put the plate onto the build plate, leveled newly and started my test print (20x20x20 box). Unfortunately after the first straiht line of skirt it failed and the PLA loosened again... don´t know what I do wrong... so no thired try meanwhile... :-(

Hi! might this kurled wheel work? http://www.ebay.at/itm/281102410932?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and I found a similar stepper http://www.ebay.at/itm/1-pcs-nema17-stepper-motor-0-9-2-4A-48mm-4leads-4200g-cm-for-3D-printer-CNC-/141055057398?pt=Motoren_Getriebe&hash=item20d7895df6

Hmmm... An MK8 curled pulley should fit - isnt? Would be great if somebody could organize the bearing spec... @Daid, would this be possible? Next, what else is to change? Marlin settings? Cura? I guess, any info would assist

Great - interesting to know that some of the UM employees have this stuff installed... Will there be an official upgrade available?? Nevertheless, guess there is a way to install it - isnt??

Hi guys, as I´m nearly the whole time sitting in front of my UM1 thinking about possible mods (and looking to my post´s there are a lot of ideas but unfortunately less time to finalize) I recently started with exchanging the acrylic platform by a alu bed with a simple 3-point leveling similar to UM2 leveling. As a next step I will exchange (only) the two Z-arms by solid aluminium parts, re-using the other wooden stuff between those parts and the z-screw. I don´t want to make the whole Z-stage out of alu as I think, a bit of flexibility in x/y is needed from a mechanical point of view (bearings - on free, one fixed). I´m currently in designing the two parts in SolidWorks, with respect to the "producability" in our companies trainee workshop. (yes, abuse of manpower :-) ) It will take a few days, but I will post the files soon, in case somebody is interested in too...

I have a few of them at home and no idea what to do after iPhone repair - ans you get always a new set if you purchase spare parts for the apple stuff. That´s a great idea for using this parts especially with small prints which might be damaged by using a BIIIGGG knife...

Damn... Too long way to the UM cave :-) BTW: I want a sticker tooooo !!! :-) @Sander: is there a way to get some??? :-)

Hmmm... They patented an enclosure to keep the heat inside a closed environment... Have they also patented a protection cover to avoid people to get in contact with vapor from melted plastic??? Maybe there is a way... Would be interested in analyzing the patent - maybe my students could do this.... :-)

I'm alo working with solidworks and following the info above I have nothing to claim about the achieved quality of the stl or the derived prints... Usually I design and print small stuff for my blade mcpx helicopter and this come out great.

Guys, as I read your postings, I really started again to think about my initial idea to build a HB too... I took a look at the spec for the MK3 alu HB at the page likned above and I hope that someone can help me understand the connections... With a MK2 it´s more or less fine (for a mechanical guy like me) but with this pattern I´m a bit screwed... The big pads are for 12/24V and ground - that´s clear. But for what are two the small pads near by? The NTC pads are for connecting the termistor - but where to place it - as usual in the middle of the plate or as on some picures shown as SMD directly at those pads? Additionally I can´t find a hint if or where I could mount a LED for status... I would be very happy if someone could point this out for me....

Hi! tried it today - great tool!!! @ MaartenW: as this tool just reads out the layer numbers created by cura, I guess it is unfortunately a bit difficult to consider your remark..

Hi! Had the same idea (1PSU) a while ago but where told that the main board and the plugs might not make it. There is a description @ the wikimanual of the UM1. If you try it with a single PSU and have success I would be happy to hear about!!

Currently I´m working on stiffening the Z-table by replacing the two inner arms (which are holding the stage where the little black brackets for leveling are placed into) by 6mm aluminium arms. Nevertheless, your approach is also very interesting!

THAT´s a great idea... I´m always struggling with a pair of needle pliers trying to remove the ooze...

Honestly I can´t imagine how my nice powerpoint files at work would look printed in 3D... But back to the initial topic: Could be interesting as a direct solution for office environments where people don´t want to tweak around. It might be worth trying if they also provide the right drivers. From the pictures it seems that Replicator2 is supported... Nevertheless, it seems that they all jump into the same trend and our hobby will become more and more popular :-)

Nice idea - I use (as Ian too as I remember) a nice big knife for removing things... Reg. the roller: to clean the print surface with it might be worth trying...

Merlin looks interesting, especially because of the longer tip but could it makes problems with cooling down the material inside using an active cooling?? Please keep us informed how the test do - and how you manage the mounting onto your UM1. I would be interested in if it is mountable on a standard head too. Ahhh... forgot: a supplier in Germany delivers a Merlin set consisting of two heads - one for 3mm and one for 1,75mm for 50€. Do you think it is possible to open the small one up to use as a second head??

Nice ideas, especially the pipe cleaner (will work on my UM1 too)... but I have no idea what to do with the Fusselroller...?

Great, thank you for the link!

Great news - I saw it in the menu but never tried it.... - but I often use the "stop print" feature... :-( Would be great if the behavior of the stop print would be similar, like move the head up by 0.5mm, to the front/left position, shut down the heater and stop the fans... Is there a possibility to modify this on the fast way?

As I mentioned in another topic reg. postings on Thingiverse or youmagine, to organize things you like, or collect them for later print, or remember them, is one of the main issues I´m currently not using youmagine. Maybe there is a way to implement such organizational feature in future...