swordriff

Ok you are good! The only thing I can try now, hanging on the edge of my own grave , is that the Teflon coupler can not be moulded or injected...

Nice try, my American friend! -but this glass is not a fiber... it is a filler!

Put zdarov! Ny, Ja ne caglacien: There is a wish and need to print complicated parts which are unprintable wihout support. And the support material needs to be removed before the part can be xoroshij?

Haha! Thanks for your PM. Would have been fun if we had a video of you, raving in the fumes of PLA, fiddling with the head assembly and mixing up various kinds of shoes! hehe....

Hi CCW1984! A sacrifical Teflon spacer will help! Mind you, these parts need to be cut in a precision lathe (drehbank), or you will suffer problems. Anders and I are currently working on bringing out a special wafer "chip", which we manufacture in an increadibly tough material. We call it he "I2K", and can take 300C continuously,protecting the Teflon coupler. I am confident it will be availbale in March. Currently, it looks like it will be supplied together with a custom top end coupler (replacing the existing Teflon piece), since we have reports from our testers that the pressure on the Teflon is already high and with the inserted chip will be even higher. The new coupler will be available in two materials, Teflon, and a special compound which is even slicker than Teflon. For quite some time, Ultimaker have been supplying a "glass filled" Teflon coupler. Personally, subjectively, and privately, my opinion is that the glass filled one has much higher friction than the "old" one, (try it "dry" by pushing cold PLA through it.. ). It also compromises one of Teflon`s coolest features of becoming more slick under increased pressure and thirdly I fail to recognize any higher boiling point. Try seeing it this way; adding glass to stearine when making candles yourself at home (everyone is still doing this, right?); does it really increase the melting temperature of the stearine? Please surprise me.. Theoretically, the glass filling could help the Teflon a little, in that the thermal conductivity of glass is 4 times higher than Teflon, thus theoretically helping to spread the evil from the hot end top end a little. Mind you, we are looking at W/(m K) figures of 0.25 (Teflon), 1.0 (Glass). Compare it to brass (the material of the hot end) which is just screaming the energy upwards, figure 110.. Capito? No, we need something in between which will act as an isolator, it must be slick, keep its shape, not conduct thermal energy, etc..

Mohissa! Thank you so much for the wonderful video and write-up! For this video I am sending you a new temp sensor, and you will have an "I2K" (19€) free of charge when it is available, as a modest compensation for this video! We are hoping you will allow me to use it on our upcoming Web site?! About Ultimaker: We are here to make life for Ultimaker better, easier, selling more printers. I am the first to be sorry that some sensors can not be removed easily. You got good & lucky. Others will not be able to make it. Many will have no issue. Ultimaker have a very generous policy wrgt replacing hot ends and sensors. In this particular case, a) your sensor did not break, b) we are half far fetched to ask them for guarantee since the replacement part is not stock. You have a very good point, in that this problem will arise when changing the original hot end with another original hot end (who would want to do that?- well the 3dSolex Block costs money). Still, you can ask kindly, but this time, and this time only I will take care of you for the video! I have 1 (one!) stock sensor, eh.. my own. I am sending it to you. PM me your snail mail address. The video has 2 minor issues: After 7:04; text says "horeshoe", rather than "horseshoe". AND very important: When re-installing the Bowden, make sure it "enters" the top countersunk flange of the Teflon coupler! Failing this, there will be endless, hard to diagnose blockages caused by melted filament! This is a huge trap, I ran into it myself. To verify the correct seating of the Bowden, it is necessary to use eyes and fingers and see and feel that it travels the few millimeters down (if one needs to wiggle the tube, hold the insert with the tiny shark-bites down continuously). Then when the tube is in correct position; - While holding the Tube down firmly, retract the insert and insert the hor(S)eshoe WHILE holding the tube down. It is so important to get this right! I also think removing the fan assembly is not necessary. When reassembling the complete head, make sure the brass inserts surrounding the X and Y axis are not displaced.

QUOTE:0.80mm nozzle has 4 times the throughput of 0.40mm (standard) nozzle. ----------------------------- Only if you print at the same layer height! If you also double the layer height then you get 8 times the throughput! It seems a bit silly to me to print a .8mm nozzle with .1mm layer height - makes more sense to go maybe .4mm layer height. Sure about that, gr5? Does layerheight affect feeder speed?

Printed with 0.30 nozzle mounted on a Custom Heater Block "3dSolex" for UM2. 0.80mm nozzle has 4 times the throughput of 0.40mm (standard) nozzle.

Mohissa! Robert is the very best. I personally have never had any problem with my original feeder. I am thinking; If it works, don't fix it, It makes changing filament easier, one of the advantages of Roberts feeder.

Hmm.. I will try to print it with the same material! 3mm filament is almost always ok! the inner diameter of the bowden tube is more than 3.1 mm, your main "bottleneck".

No video yet of change of hot end: power off (so not destroy tiny backfan).. get another light source... unscrew 4 vertical screws. unscrew assembly holding alu brackets together. leave fans in place. you COULD also remove bowden; remove horseshoe, hold insert down, remove bowden tube and spring. remove teflon coupler. using small umbraco tool that came with the printer, carefully unscrew the stainless steel coupler by inserting the tool in the radial holes. using same tool, unscrew M3 vertical tiny screw inserted into heater block. Hopefully remove the cartridges, DO NOT PULL cables. Reverse the action, dont overtighten the screw in the new Block, just so the cartridges will not easily move + 1/4 turn. Re-assemble. Leave a gap between the SS coupler with the holes and the Block of appx 1mm, LEVEL THE BED; OR YOU WILL SUFFER A HEAD CRASH. The new Block (named 3dSolex), steals a few more millimeters of build height. When levelling bed, no need to touch the 3 screws in the bed, if it worked well before. When adjusting the bed using the digital wheel, lift the bed so a piece of standard paper is "just cought" between head and glass. Then open up 2 clicks rotating wheel or more, depending on if you mount 025-040 or 080 nozzle. Bigger nozzle, bigger bed-gap. If you have a hardtime removing the temp sensor, get back to me without destroying it.

Im guessing you print at 225C? right? Try lowering to 210, but then combined speed down to 30-40mm/s. In advanced, minimum travel for retraction 0.0 Retraction ON. Try it first!

Thank you! The delay is because: We have (yet another) engineering change, which will allow the standard temp sensor to be much more easily recovered after it has been inserted, which is not always the case in batch 1. The fault is a symptom of inconsistant diameter of the temp nozzle in the crimp zone (not our fault).. We are also making a verification of the M3 fastening screw hole diameter holding the cartridges, and changing the screw from umbraco style to phillips style. A tiny, small screwdriver is included which is so small that it will help not overtightening the cartridge screw.

Hey! The reports coming from Block owners are regarding Blocks shipped in batch 1, some in Australia, New Zealand and North America had several weeks shipping time. You gents in Europe are waiting for batch 2, which is in production. Thanks!

0.25 needs layer height 0.10 Lesser height has not worked for me. Also, bed gap more generous than one might think. Print temp higher 1st layer, pause, "manually press 1st layer onto bed" Resume.

Oh dear, ChrisR! I am not sure I can ship an I2K to you, since it is an unclassified material, and the material has more "value" than its use, and you are not in Schengen, I may need a so called "End User Certificate". You can try and obtain one here: https://www.gov.uk/dealing-with-hmrc/paying-hmrc. *** CCW1984: Since the stuff was developed by NASA, I am confident I can ship it with the original documents that is issued with every manufacture. *** Everyone else, except Russia; N.Zealand and Australia, No problem. Product White Paper: With the I2K you will be able to print at a sustained 310C, possibly without damaging the Teflon coupler for a long time. There is an I4K in development which will survive burning down the house. ( This is not a joke). These are some informal characteristics of the wafer, which will buffer the teflon coupler: High strength over a wide temperature range from -270°C to + 300°C Extremely good long-term thermal stability Glass transition temperature up to 400°C Good cryogenic properties Inherently flame retardant (UL 94 V0) Minimal thermal expansion Outstanding durability Excellent resistance to wear under high surface area pressure, high sliding speeds High compression strength pressure and creep resistance High radiation resistance High purity, low outgassing in vacuum Good chemical resistance to acids, fats and solvents Excellent electrical insulation properties Minimal thermal conductivity I like the 4th and 5th last line best!

Personal Drones! Cool to have you on board! The reprap style thermocoupler will not work, unfortunately! You just have to be careful removing the existing cartridge! The "I2K" (Isolator 2000, because it is made from the Tecasint 2000 family of Polyimide), will be available shortly! Ill let you know. Thank you! Lets see som fantastic prints soon...

Did you first print ordinary ABS?

En Guete!

Maybe you can add a 5mm raft, print THAT in "ordinary" PLA (on glue and 60C bed). Then plugin STOP AT height, Change material and nozzle (if you have that upgrade), and possibly your material will stick to other material (PLA you printed as a "raft") What do you think? OOPS: if its ABS based, maybe make the raft in ABS. not PLA

Attention! Everybody, who like reibuehl personally travels from continental Europe to Oslo to pick up the Block, gets a free temp sensor! Thanks

This is residue from "cooked" filament. Especially, if PLA based filament is left in the nozzle at much more than 220 it turns into black goo, the moisture evaporizes and the leftover is burned.. Frequently switching between ABS and PLA is one cause for this problem, some PLA is left in the hot end, and when you ramp up to 260 for ABS the PLA residue is really burned. Did you print wood? 260/85 pulls with ABS is what I recommend!

Hi Melkolo! It is easier if you can cut off the plug first, then push /pull it through with the old cable.. and re-attach/re-mount the plug. The quick and dirty way is to put the cable "next to the black sleeve". So sorry about your sensor..

I've been pondering about steel: It is possibly much more resistant to chemical abrasion, like when printing glowfill, and its somewhat harder than brass.. so really exciting to see what it can do! One drawback is that it is mediocre conductor of low frequent electromagnetic radiation, especially when stainless, and I expect therefore longer heating times and slower printing.

ARJAN!!! You are FANTASTIC! Anders and I discussed something like this, but this totally beats our expectations! You are hereby awarded a "3dSolex I2K" heat isolator and Teflon coupler! This kit will retail at 25€, but I am shipping you a prototype kit for free for designing this delightful add-on! With the "I2K", you will be able to print for hundreds of hours at 260C without heating the Teflon coupler much over 100C, (-hopefully- :grin: ) Again, thank you so much!