swordriff

Yes! Glass fill does not increase temperature tolerance.. but the collapse happens more abruptly... Liquid PLA sticks to just about everything! I have tried other material which is so slippery that an ant, Ameise, can not climb it, which can take 290C continuously, which is "self lubricating", and PLA sticks to it. High quality Teflon just works. And yes, it is a consumable.. Scenario: Cooling circuit to cool the retraction area, more heating to heat the hot end (because it looses power to the cooling), more cooling to the hot end support structures, cool the back end of the cooling circuit (which gets hot) etc... --I am just not sure...Maybe a litte like building a Patek Complicated so you can know where the Moon is always, but you can check that in the internet using your phone also...

PTFE lifetime all depends on the printing temperature! 260 (abs printing) shortens it significantly. PTFE starts to decompose slowly at 200C, hyperbolically so around 230. PTFE is fantastic in the way that it is cheap and very slippery! I tried several chinese variants from ali, but they all are the wrong material and/or wrong dimension. It needs to be very finely machined! There is no standard for PTFE, so many variants are possible. Dupont is an industry standard. It is not what you get in alibaba for 5$ / pcs. The ones from UM are very good!

Quote: Bulid gap '"open 3 clicks" on wheel'. I mean follow official bed leveling procedure, using paper to slide between the nozzle and the glass plate, just like they say. The paper should have like a "tooth", scraping lightly when you pull it out. This is what UM says is right gap. I suggest you try the same, but after paper is like this, then turn encoder wheel 1-3 clicks to make more gap.

What is more: sometimes it is enough to cut 3-5 mm! Then the tube will last longer! And you can print thicker horseshoes, made by Anders "the Block" Olsson: https://stats.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clip-thicker-version And there are other nice solutions also...

try adjusting screen resolution. right click in desktop, take it from there

Hi Ganon! "Dual Nozzles" UM officially abanodoned "dual" printing for the UM2 family earlier this year. You CAN install two blocks, and drives, and print with two colours eventually, but you will run into at least two show-stopping problems: Dual problem 1: While you print with nozzle #1, nozzle #2 will continuously crash into your new construction. Fix: Lift the head not in use. There are some good efforts for this, especially in Germany I think. The guy is in the forum here.. Dual problem 2: The head currently not in use will a) drip, and b) "cook" the material inside, and depending which material it is, turn i into "чевачка", completely blocking it. There are more problems also, but these are by most regarded as the most important ones.

oops... previous comment was placed strangely by UM forum... sorry.. but content is almost right

Lots of trouble with too small layer height and not exactly calibrated machine! I suggest: Atomic. Bed levelling, after paper makes small resistance on you, "open 3 clicks" on wheel. Many have too small bed gap. Pla 220C start sklow: 30mms Layer 0.15 Work from there.. oncrease speed slowly to 50

Einige filament/farben drucken viel schlechter.. Gelb sieht ja Toll aus! Wenn zu hohe temperaturen, dann gibts karbonisation... kleine elemente hocken innenseitig der Duse u machen mehr u mehr zu. Wenn man von PLA auf ABS (hoehere temp) umschteigt, bleiben immer reste der PLA stecken. Die werden dann verbrannt un hindert spater drucken, auch wenn mann bei ABS bleibt. Roter Tropfen: Koennte productionsfehler sein? Das letzte Bild ist vertopfte duse, wenn alles andere lauft. Ich wurde mit 30-40mms drucken pla 215 (als standard), later 0.15 od 0.2.

I advice Atomic pulls using another colour, blue, red etc.. so you can see carboized black or grey filament sticking to the pull. If your machine was not new, I would have said that high temperature over time(260) has caused the lower end of the Teflon coupler to collapse.. When doing Atomic, the filament goes easily down? if not then teflon grabs the filament; replace! Possibly the nozzle exit itself is jammed? Agree, use standard settings. try PlA at 220. Speed 30mm/s. Work up from there! Listen for the skipping...If you have that then: clogged bowden tube (filament parts coming from extruder) clogged hot end square filament too low temperature too high speed

EDIT: Under Extrusion starts at layer 3. Does the 3d layer have an increase in speed?

Steel nozzles are delayed, sorry! They are really hard to get right. The "I2K" wafers have been shipped to everyone.

Hi Sylus! When inserting the I2K it is an advantage to increase the gap (= higher pressure) because we have now 2 hard surfaces against each other (block + I2), and we wish to avoid leak. Thanks for bringing my attention to this, we will remake the video as soon as we can (with help from "mohissa"). Better now, screw the steel coupler all the way down to the block ( brings the Inside higher up inside) and will make a gap of 3-5 mm with I2K installed, higher pressure. This is no worry, since the Teflon is isolated from the brass hot end.

Hi! They are not in yet. We have worked in the inside. Will let you know! Thank you

My record is 19 cmm / s: Colorfabb PLA. 225C (normally this is too high) 0.8 nozzle Layer 0.4 Speed 60mm/S. Prints like toothpaste!

0.8 nozzle has 4 times(!!) the opening surface area than 0.4. Suggest start with effective speed 25mm/s, PLA 220, layer 0.3 Take it from there. Slowly increase speed.

You mean inside?

Ok: There will be little additional heat transfer when the steel coupler is all the way down.. just do it! The steel is in big contact along those threads already! The whole thing must be hot or the steel thing breaks. It looks very strong, but needs to be very thin for technical reasons and breaks very easily! Maybe we need a stronger spring? Maybe some thing is wrong with it?

Yes.. Thanks.. Well: The little heat transfer into the END of the steel coupler will not change anything. It already connects in 20-30 times the surface area in the M6x075 windings. Please try it all the way down. You MUST CLEAN IT inside, or the extremely tight fit I2K will not work. Maybe that was the problem? In any case, you have guarantee from me.. but the steel coupler i do not have...

Ill check the video! Now it is very important to clean the top of the block (touching I2K) and the I2K and the Teflon as well.. No.. no plan for the steel couplers, sorry!

Colorfabb XT does not work!

Hi! this can happen in 2 cases: Too low pressure from top, ; fix by turning steel coupler all the way down to the block, ONLY SCREW it when HOT; or the steel coupler will break. Second case: Teflon insert is slightly too high diameter and does not fall down to pressure the I2K. Where is the Teflon from? Thanks

Bob! If you break it I will help you with a new block! Do not worry! Make it work, relax.!

Funnel design, airflow, etc... Slightly, ever slightly off- topic, but do you know, that in the case of super sonic flight, ie the Concorde, the air hitting the compressor blades in the front of the engine must never EVER reach Mach 1. The machine actually travels Mach 2.02, so does the air in front of the intakes. While I am at it; In the case of technical Musei, where hardware from begone times is shown off, having been replaced by "better", "faster", etc designs, the exception the Concord, which has not been replaced wrgt super sonic, as the main design feature.

Hey Bob! Do you mean to remove/attach Nozzle to the Olsson Block? Yes, you can use s slow battery-electric tool! The nozzle/block threading is much MUCH tougher than you think, so dont worry. You can use more force on the little screwdriver and screw holding the cartridges as well! Anything else, glad to help!