swordriff

skull: If you print at 260+C, you will destroy the teflon coupler very quickly, especially at 265+C. It starts to disintegrate at 200, very slowly, and much more at 230. It looses some properties and suddenly will collapse onto your filament holding it hard.

Hi Bob! Its easy to fit, but some users cannot remove the temp sensor without destroying it, regrettably. Nothing else you need...

Tsagos! Look at the nozzle from, underneath (eh... use mirror?). Should be pointy, not FLAT surface..

Personal Drones: huomo loco !!! haha!!

Tsagos :: Can you explain a bit more about nozzle wear and wide shoulders pls? I'm printing with PLA now as we speak and I did atomic pull. I do it every time, even from PLA to PLA. First, I also almost always do the pulls between prints, sometimes I just change the nozzle, but then it will need the pull before printing next time, yes? Nozzle wear: The nozzles mostly wear down by rubbing its nose in the existing print. Bronzefill Colorfabb (one of my favourites, 225 first layer then 210-215), gnaws at the nozzle nose as it moves over the print. You can hear it and feel it! The Brass surrounding the nozzle hole gets filed down and due to the angle of the nozzle leading up to (eh.. down to) the plastic exit , the shoulders as it is called gets wide. Then you will get lower quality prints (they say, havent tested myself but some have!). With some new interesting material which is very strong, you wear down a nozzle in tens of hours instead of hundreds of hours. Changing material often is not good. What you can do, is to have one nozzle for each material. This way, they will keep clean longer!

I do not know how slower to print with steel. Steel is good because it is harder than brass, but it is not that much harder than brass, and brass has higher palsticity etc... I am just guessing that you have to print slower because heat really travels slower.. E3D speak about it on their pages. Facit: If you print standard PLA/ABS, not glowfill not carbon, not metals, a brass nozzle will live "forever". If you print this other stuff, steel will help, but it will not live forever, maybe double, quadruple? The designer of the 3dSolex Olsson block, Anders Olsson, is printing self made material which completely wipes out a nozzle in a few hours only! Now, the stuff he prints is so expensive that it is not so much the price of the nozzles, but I guess it is worrisome that the build gap increases so much while he is printing; the wear is mostly noticeable in the area surrounding the output hole. So he gets increasingly inaccurate results. The cables for the heater wont break, the temp sensor may.

Adrien_12: I have never heard about someone breaking the heater When Installing the 3dSolex Olsson Block. Maybe 1 in 10-20 destroys the temp sensor, When It Was Because It Is Manufactured Slightly too large for the hole in the original nozzle block. Then it is Pushed in, and can not get out without pulling the cable off and drilling out the hole .. In this case a new Temp sensor is needed, sorry .. Some-have manged to wriggle out the sensor using WD-40 and heat etc ... Cable Into sensor is brittle and loose sweaters Easily, About the steel nozzles from E3D They work well, and steel is a Poorer conductor of low frequency electromagnetic radiation (= heat), so printing is Slower, and your settings Existing won't work well. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html EDIT :: F***ing Google translate translates both ways!! Well; translate this: M*E*x*D*E

Hi! If you print with PLA at 210-225, then change to material requiring 260, the hot 260 material will burn and carbonize any left over material residue you have in the nozzle from the previous material. This is a frequent source of clogging! Some PLA turns beautifully glossy and transparent at highish temp,like 230. If you only print normal PLA (not glow, not fibre etc) the nozzle will last very many ours! You can see it wears down by getting wider shoulders, after hundreds or thousands of hours. Strangely some people get good life from TEFLON piece, others not. Printing at 230+ seriously affects longevity. My recommendation is to totally clean the hot end using Atomic until the cold pulled plug comes out in totally slick shape. Then print PLA at 220. Main reco is to not switch material so often.. really understand each one well. VISU-AL here changes nozzles, one for each material. It is something to consider. Woodfill, main fix is: Print at 210. turn off retraction because it "helps" (ant-helps!!) cooking the filament inside the nozzle. Print at 30-40mms effective speed and Material Flow 130%. It must flow all the time, no pause no retraction. half second jumps are ok..! Some early Woodfill (not entirely sure about this) has a larger grain of fibers and may clog 0.40 nozzle. The one they sell now works well with the standard nozzle. I have printed a lot with this configuration. Edit: Print at 0.1- 0.2 until you get it right with the nozzle inside and temp etc.. It is more demanding to print at such low layer height.... Sometimes Bowden tube can jam from residue after exdruder drive enters it. It can be a serious problem. Fix: Dismount, wash, spray with teflon spray or any oil.. remount.

So strange.. outer shell looks good, and infill not so... I recommend start printing at 25mm/s , 220-225C. Also, since this is a low resolution object, I really recomment layer 0.4-0.5, try even 0.6mm! Remember: If you print PLA (210-225) and then ABS (260-ish), you will carbonize residue of PLA in nozzle. Then it will obstruct further printing. Try cleaning the nozzle very well, and print at the settings I recommend.. One last tip: Always use layer view in Cura, to see how the model will print. Experiment with the horrible settings, experiment with filling percentage.. suddenly it comes out just right! Sometimes I suspect there is a messup because the big nozzle 080 is not printing fine lines, practical example is the Torque Wrench by Anders Olsson https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench%20%C2%A0will%20not%20print%20with%20a%20080%20Jet%20setting,.%20The%20retarding%20Fan%20will%20be%20invisible,%20try%20it%20and%20look%20in%20layer%20view,%20not%20even%20need%20to%20print%20it! Well actually you CAN print it with a 080 JET like this: Set nozzle size to 0.4, keep the 0.8 JET in the block, set flow to 25-40% depending on layer height or you will get the skipping in feeder.... get it? Looking forward to seeing the result!

Id like to print it, the 30mm one...using 025 nozzle

That seems strange, unless your "leitbahn" originally was only 1 pass at 0.1mm. Could you bring it further by increasing layer height? Do several layers combine electrically?

I messed up by sending UltiArjan a PTFE coupler I had purchased from China, because he really needed one fast. He swamped his whole (Olsson Block) lower hot end completely. Turned out the PTFE coupler (had one left with me) was off by less than 10 micron (!), 6.38 instead of 6.32-34, which caused leak due to lack of downpressure. To machine the washer is a lot more fiddly, Anders Olsson recently used a scalpel / sharp knife to manually correct some after lathing. puh... (Anders; are you still so young so you have eyes for this?)

reibuehl! I understand you completely! I have my Um2 since 2013,and had to tighten almost every screw in the chassis and electronics etc... but I never did anything to the extruder and never thought there is something wrong with the fan shroud! Several have PMd me asking me to start a crowdfunded fan shroud.. but I think it will never satisfy everyone, and always be criticized (probably with good reason!). What I do see is that the extruder should be modified (soft filament, etc) , so I probably go with iRoberti / www.3dverkstan.se design.. allthough some of the others seem fantastic too!, its just that I wish to support local suppliers.. haha..

RandyinLA: If you make a spacer with PTFE to go between the Teflon coupler and the hot end, it WILL make the coupler last longer, but the spacer and the coupler will crash at some point. The I2K isolator is made of a material which is also slippery, self-lubricating, thermal insulating and extremely resistant to high temperatures. A washer made in Teflon starts to (slowly) disintegrate at 200C, and much quicker so at 230+. So, if you changed it reguarly it would help the Teflon coupler live much longer, yes. But the point for many is to avoid the "hot end rebuilds" in the first place: Say, you are printing, and it is some time since you changed the coupler or the PTFE washer, then at some point the coupler will collapse somewhat and squeeze the filament going down. Consequently you have hot end carbonization because you are not there within 90 secs to save the day, the printer tries to go on "forever", and you have a failed print. We all have experienced how a print has failed for whatever reason JUST AT THE WRONG TIME. This is why I, and many with me use a high tech wafer.. I agree with Didier, it seems nicer with a one piece coupler that lasts forever, and I am working on it now. But even all the combined brainpower at Ultimakers have not yet been able to find just the right material for it. Like Didier is indicating: is your washer is not really the right shape you will have a leak, and swamp the whole hot end. Meanwhile the I2K works well, 500hours/260C and counting.

Absolutely! I turn off retraction completely! Let it flow and experiment with increased flow, up to 140%, with wood

Hey guys! Interesting to read about the fan ducts! From time to time I read that you want to cool the PTFE coupler also. I say this is not necessary / very helpful. The PTFE coupler does not get very hot on the outside, and cooling it from the outside will not influence its lower inside which is where it gets hot. It is a fantastic temperature insulator. If it was not for the steel spiral spring, a child could easily hold the PTFE coupler in its hands while you are printing at 260!

Nix! Suggest to try 0.4 or 0.5, Just try it with 0.80 Jets. I get wonderful results with 040 nozzle and 0.25

Sigi! We need to work on your print! If you are sure there is no skipping from the feeder, pls try prining with 0.5 height. Olsson makes prints with 0.8,mm Nozzle that looks almost like mold injected. Mr Olsson; Could you share a photo of the white ring, and the settings?

Good post! Instead of writing up all the settings I use, I reply so we can all remind oursleves how to investigate similar issues ourselves! This is an "uncritical " item, there is no spec or tolerance available for the Torque.. Anders likes to print ABS, I prefer PLA. It is correct that it releases at higher torque with PLA than ABS, by quite a margin. Personally I like that it is a bit stronger and gives the nozzle an extra "bite" in the block. Temperature will effect both equally so not much difference in practice there. Use a standard setting in Cura, play with it! It works the first time, the design is really beautiful and forgiving (thanks, Mr Olsson!). HOWEVER: If you print it with a too large nozzle there wont be any "release fan!. Try it, set nozzle to 0.8, then check layer view if you cant wait to print. ALWAYS USE LAYER VIEW to see how it comes out. Then you can play with, and see the result of many settings without actially having to print the item, higly recommended. The good ol`boys in here ALWAYS use layer view to check that they did not forget a setting, as an exmple in the expert settings from the "previous" print. Please, can you post your print then later on? If you print the fan upside down, you are in overhang area for a long time, and you can experiment with temp and speed etc while you are printint to find the best result.. maybe? Some people print the two items in two different colours, looks good! Unfortunately, they cannot do it at the same time... yet!

sigi! at 226 maybe better! You have an insane throughput at these figures, very roughly like 200mms w 040 nozzle!

FANTASTIC!! Did you use 0.25 nozzle?

I recommend increasing the gap over the steel coupler from the "usual" 1mm or so by 1.5mm to also include the thickness of the I2k. Basically, take the Teflon out, slip the I2K in, re-seat the Teflon. The said gap is now bigger by the thickness of the I2K wafer. This increases the pressure somewhat, reducing the chances for leak. The Teflon can take the increased pressure because it does not get nearly so hot now.. Thanks reibuehl for the report! Theoretically there is an increased chance of leak, because we have 2 hard(-ish) surfaces against each other, between I2K and Olsson Block. Without, there is a good connection between Teflon and brass. To counter this increase leak chance, we recommend increasing pressure somewhat! Mr Olsson has reported no leak, and has now many hundred hours printing, and we can be grateful for all testing he is doing. On his advice, the IPM coupler is delayed from the market until tested further. You cannot destroy it, but we need to find out which materials stick to it when cold, if any. The coupler is made of a material which: A) does not decompose at temperatures below 290C, B) does not stick well to plastic C) Is a good thermal insulator, contrary to brass.

Hi . It will be tested for stickyness first. Ill post a date later. Thank you! BTW, the nozzles for UMO work very well with the Olsson Block!

The I2Ks are delayed because it is difficult to source the right material. I have decided to ship everything else, and send the I2K later, looks like 1-2 weeks.

Hi! "Do you think it steel nozzle will even work with PLA? " Steel nozzle will work with PLA, but with standard PLA it is not necessary, since it will "never" wear out. Steel conducts temperature much poorer than brass, so you may have to print slower. "How abrasive could it get on the block itself?" Look,, the hole in top of the block between the teflon coupler and the nozzle entry, when the nozzle is inserted, is ca 3.2mm wide and 7mm long. It will widen with time and this has no consequence. If the entry hole on the top of the block was smaller than the exit hole of the Teflon, THEN you have a problem the next day: You start the machine, and want to print. The nozzle and (Olsson?) block get hot and everything in it is fluid (except carbonized plastic sticking to the walls). Now, when you start printing, the hard piece of plastic which coagulated inside the Teflon piece yesterday has a higher diameter than the hot-end-top-end, and will not slide into the hot (Olsson?!, - or any ) block. Instead, it needs to melt its way down, while touching only the top of the block. This causes skipping and start problems. When the hard, bigger plastic has passed into the Block, things return to normal.. Does it make sense? Facit: Over time, the inner dia of the block will widen, of no immediate consequence.