swordriff

Maybe it is Impossibilium Donalditis? I have today shipped to everyone who contacted me! I also included a new kind of nozzle for you.. sorry :-P . About the test; No need to test how tough it is, I am only concerned with material sticking/not sticking to its inside after retractions, and after complete cooldowns. The length of the item is exactly the same as the standard Teflon piece, but since it is a harder material you can increase the pressure to avoid any leak.. so screw the Metal coupling ( the one with the radial holes ) down or all the way down, this brings the hot end block a little higher inside the coupling. BE CAREFUL: The steel coupling is very brittle, I have easily destroyed one myself. you need to HEAT the nozzle before touching the steel coupler.. It is brittle because it is thinly designed to absorb as little as possible energy from the block. Thank you all!

Could it be one of the short motor drive belts that are too loose?

REALLY close! Some bad-asses here even do it like this: Loosen the 4 long vertical screws holding the head-assembly a little! Then, while keeping a keen eye on the area top of teflon coupler, AND AT THE SAME TIME holding the clip socket ring DOWN so the tube can move freely THEN -carefully move the bowden up and down while looking until you are SURE the tube is inside the Teflon receptor. THEN WHILE holding the tube down quite forcefully, tighten the 4 vertical screws..not too much, with a "childs hand". and slide the ring down and enter the horseshoe to keep it there. (some print out a fatter horseshow.. you find it in youmagine, but I never needed one) Finish

Maybe some filament "slices" have entered your Bowden tube, but most likely need to make Atomic pulls to clean Hot end.

Hey its like the othes say also sometimes needs pointy fil. End of spool has curvy fil and does not help. I still think ur tube is not inserted, just rests on top of the 8mm ridge of teflon. In that case the fil stops on top of teflon!

Esteban! It is because the Bowden tube is not fully inserted into the Teflon top! This is much more fiddly than one would imagine! WHen not inserted fully, the filament crashes into the 6.35mm "plateau" near the top of the Teflon coupler. This must be without gap!

Attention: I have started a new topic in "Modifications & Hacks" Merci!

I have started a new thread under "Modifications and Hacks". Please help me test an item.

I need volunteer testers, Ultimaker 2 family only. Limit 40 persons, one item/person. I need to test the IPM Coupler "Teflon replacement" for the UM2, and I need to have it tested UNTIL IT FAILS. It is composed of an undisclosed material. Max 300C continuous. (Good luck!). You must be able to test it with PLA and at least one more material, preferably a high tech material like from COLORFABB. (please suggest more suppliers and I will add it to the list). List: Colorfabb Taulmann Faberdashery -- XT does NOT WORK, it sticks after few hours, thank you Christian. Test report must include: Material, Nozzle type, Temp, Speed, Retraction/No retraction, time to fail, FIX for fail? I ship 40 pcs IPM couplers FREE of charge (one for each person) if you PM me you would like to test it. Some early testers have had it work for PLA, some not. Recent buyers are being compensated. We need to find out what works! Please PM with "test" in subject line. Name, Address, Material you plan to use. First come, first served, basta!

Fantastic! And I have been in Cassis several times too! I knew the women are beautiful, but now I know they are smart as well! In Norway, this is considered a "combination dangereuse",....

Hallo! PLA; platte 50-60, kleber. Aufpassen dass der abstand initiell zw platte u Mundstück nicht zu gross ist. Gewschwindigkeit "first layer" 20mm/s. Muss klappen.

there is a video somehere, possibly by gr5, with a simple, non-scientific test of nozzle tip temp. It involves touching the tip with a piece og filament and see how deep an impression it leaves... try to find it! I think there is a bigger chance of loose connector on main PCB, both sensor and heater, , then heater failure, least temp sensor failure..

I fill the orders coming in by April 9th and ship on the 10th! I do not know of you have an order.. do you? hehe... Next shipping day will be April 13th. Thanks!

Salü! I had originally advertised shipping on April 7th, but now looks like April 10Tth! Desole for the delay..

Yes! Gr5 has tought us everything we know about the UM2, it is about time he teaches us everything HE knows about it....Haha!

Agree Labern! Blowing on the Teflon coupler has as much effect on the inside temperature as blowing on your fridge at home has on it´s inside temperature.

dirkdirk! Der Versand ist aus Norwegen, die Teile sind hier hergestellt. Ist kein MWST, da Norwegen nicht in EU ist. Die kleinen Brieflein werden neie aufgemacht, und der Wert ist ja gering. Glasfaserverstärkung macht das Teflon nicht mehr wiederstandfähig gegen hohe Temperaturen u. die Oberfläche ist fiel mehr Rau. Mit GF hält sie ein ganz wenig länger, vor dem dass sie einen "coupler-squeeze" macht, ie aud dem Filament ein kollaps macht. Ich Drucke jetzt 19ccm/S: 0.8mm Mundstück, 0.4mm höhe u. 60mm/s, mit standard feeder und PLA von hoher Qualität.

Did you put a new Teflon coupler when you inserted the vespel spacer?

Es gibt dieses Teil auch hier: http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=555

Very funny thread!!! Using colorfabb for atomic pulls is like putting a gold ring in the nose of a pig! I am sure it works, and doing cold pulls w/white is smart! Thank you

Labern, The hole for the temp sensor in some blocks is outside spec, so 20-50 microns too large. To make it work; put a l ittle aluminium foil around the probe, covering the tip so it wont slide back when you insert it, It will work perfektly! You have choice: I send you new and you send me the wrong ones back, Ill incude a nozzle for your trouble..you can use the ones you have until you receive the replacment. Or you just fix them the way I suggest, and Ill send you a Dupont Teflon or something else as a compensation. Aluminium is a fantastic thermal conductor (twice brass) and your syste cannot detect the difference, actually it is better than just "air" which it will be in most cases anyway. Anything for you! Let me know!

touche!

Take it out. Cut 3-7mm Put back! Now: it can be really fiddly to get it back INSIDE the top of the teflon coupler. Make sure you do! Move it up and down while holding the collett down. Then, when it is inserted into the teflon, WHILE holding it down firmly, raise the collet, and insert the horseshoe. You may consider a thicker horseshoe, make it from here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bowden-locking-clamp-clip https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clip-thicker-version I prefer the lower one.

netsrac: There are two disadvantages. 1) You may destroy the temp sensor when removing it from the standard block, requiring a replacement. 2) Build height is reduced by a few millimeters. However, when you have installed the Osson block the temp sensor is easier to remove in one piece, should you require to do so..

99%-ig wackel auf der Hauptplatine! Aufmachen unten ( einige Schrauben von der Innenseite), und grüne Stecker mit S.zieher zumachen!!! Kannst auch die Anderen zumachen...