swordriff

I am in!! Ill print it in Bronze or Copper! Thanks!

@Qmaker: After post processing

Jerry! If you mount a stainless steel Nozzle, it will upset the heat transfer, stainless steel is a much poorer conductor of low frequency electromagnetic radiation ( = heat) than brass, which composes mostle of copper. Chromium plated brass is worth investigating,. and I am looking into it as we speak! Since you have an UMO, you can easily change the nozzle... hehe...

Yes! You can probably quickly try this, by putting paper around the insert ring making it thicker, and at least get an indication if it is working. Pretty sure, like restinpieces here, that this is your problem.

The hole holding the tube coupler, a white ring insert whith 4 tine llittle "haken" in it, It needs the hole to be small enough to slightly push the lower end of this little white insert together, when it is in its upper position where you insert the horseshoe to holde it. This way, the little knives, haken, they grip the bowden. Rarely, it can be useful to cut maybe 5mm from the bowden tube, so the insert with its lttle grips "hits" another spot on the bowden. Machbar?

@gluetolf: Merci! I has au nöd gwösst, toll- oder? My guess about abrasiveness is that the bronzefill does not so much gnaw at the inside of the nozzle, but rather more "rubbing its nose" in the existing print while printing, and when the layer is laid and "dry" it is much more like zandpapier! Rubbing the nose in dry layers flattens the nozzle, increasing the bed gap (not necessarily a bad thing, I always try to print with as high an initial bed-gap I can get away with, but don't quote me, (topic not exhausted) ). This flattening of the nozzle tip alone does NOT increase the nozzle diameter because there is quite a lead-out inside with a fixed calibre, all the length of the pyramid, but the rubbing of the nose and losing material DOES widen the shoulders of the nozzle. I know you are aware of this UltiArjan, thanks for handing it back to me... The "shoulders" are the area around the plastic-exit. As the nose gets shorter, the hole stays more than less the same, and the shoulders widen, yes? At a certain width of these shoulders, prints will just be not as good due to .. eh.. layer crash? --I am not sure. Just heard it from the oldies in here.. need to try it. Luckily (thanks for the cue, UltiArjan), I can change the nozzle using Anders's Torque Wrench, in about 15 secs. I plan to post a one-take video of the final layers of the little gnome, and the post processing. Should be less than 5 minutes, by a margin. Mind you, the image in post #169 is not so good because there is poor scale; The thing is really small, 2.5cm, ca. That's why you can still see the layers. IRL that is hard to see. When you click on it here it is many times bigger than the original. I will try to print it at 50 micron (0.05), this one here is 100 micron, and 250 micron nozzle. Standard nozzle is 400m. I will not share the settings in Cura, because this is a test print to be accepted in 3dhub, and I do not want to ruin their fun and quality assurance. Dont even know if I am accepted! Will let you know.. There was quite a struggle to print it, had to do it 3 times, because I lack experience, and also because the "envelopes" of bronzefill are much tighter, with less overlap between them than with PLA. Everyone needs to try to print the thing themselves... EDIT. So.. 3dhubs accepted me! (thanks!) and asked me to share the settings and said the print is contending for "print of he week".. well that is something then! Settings: UM2, with 0.25mm nozzle. Bed 60, no tape or glue but clean glass. Layer 0.1mm. Initial print temp 225 (sticks much better) After few layers temp 215 (!) Fan FULL after first few layers. Fill 30% Filament colorfabb Bronzefill Speed: 30mm/S (Cura at 50 default, and UM2 at 60% = 30mm/s)

I received my 0.25 Nozzle today and installed it on my UM2. Then I signed up with 3dhub by printing the obligatory test print at 0.1mm layer height. Installed Bronzefill from colorfabb. 215/60, 40mm/s. Fan 100% (especially the ring in top is really difficult!). Then I did a 5 minute post-processing.

gr5 is recommending (and using) a flamethrower when cleaning up prints. would it be a good idea perhaps, to combine these two methods... BTW I would like to mention that acetone has a flashpoint of minus 20C.

What would you like to have test printed? If its not too big there is no cost. Ill send it to Budapest.

Die Temperatur allein macht nicht mit'em Nozzle blödsinn, ausser mit agressive Materialen, (glow, metal, ..) ABS bei 260 schleift kaum. Es ist die PTFE Kupplung, die vergeht hyperbolisch schnell bei 230 +

Hey Tinker... We are good.. You had the right answer to part of the problem! Take care.

Yes. printing ABS 260+ over time deforms the teflon piece. When you take it out you will see it has an inner wall collapse.. You COULD try reaping it a bit, even cut 0.5mm. cut must be straight, surface flat.. (really!!)..

when you install two hotends, they need to be aligned at same height. Ok, you have accomplished that. Then when you start printing, the cold head will move into your existing new layers and corrupt them. Fix: lift or remove the other nozzle. It seems this is one of two important show-stoppers for the Um2-Dual extrusion project. You cannot avoid running into the same problem without lifting or removing the alternating hot end. Edit: If your question is will this software help avoiding head collition, I am not sure, but it will fix "the dimensions and positiions" on the build plate, since the nozzles are not in the same position

1MM ! Top fur Woodfill. Das Messing vergeht schneller bei der Kombination von chemie (glow..) und Temp. Es gibt wohl kaum Grund PLA heisser als bei 230 durchzupressen.

Hey! I know it is not exactly halal to say this: I have never touched the feeder except opening to look and remove some rubble, then close it again. The knurled drive should make quite an impression on the filament (-bad for laybrick and other fragile fils.. good for PLA etc). It should be adjusted so that it pushes the filament STRONGLY out of the bowden tube on the hotend-end. I guess like hurting if you held your backhand in front if the tube. My advice, make the push work. it COULD be still skipping (without the symptoms of the "chuffs", if the drive has rubbed ahlfway through the pla in the same place and there is no bite anymore... but maybe not your case). It should push with several kilo pressure. Then, make sure the tube is reinserted correctly into the teflon piece (more fiddly than you would imagine), also help the filament entry by cutting a pointed sharp end of the filament so to help it past the assembly in the hot end. (there is even more to this but tough to explain), Use Advanced Move material, play with it and see it move the filament back and forth. Then move it slowly (20-30ish clicks) into the hotend and see it come out. When it does, back off 15 clicks. Then make a print. Use 5-10 line BRIM ( more with very small pieces) to get the filament "going" after the operation.

Smart, and potential trouble: You would need to lift the nozzle not in use by 1mm to avoid head crash, alternatively buy a hotend with interchangeable nozzle (removable). You could then remove the nozzle not in use in 5 secs. Hey oldies: what about the software adjustment? thanks

Funny!! Mine stands on 3 feet. Ive put piece of ivory under the 4th. Never had a problem with it. Ill find a rhino in the local zoo and just have it sit on it to make it straight, maybe.. Gonna draw huge circle and see how it prints Thanks, gr5

Ok! First assemble the complete head correctly by aligning the two black plastic pieces and tightening those 4 screws more. I can see its wrong in the video.Make sure the brass tubes around the X Y axis are aligned and nothing sticks out, you will see what I mean. Then in menu: Advanced, move material, wait for the head to heat up, Then, loosen the bowden tube on the hot end side, by pulling out the small plastic ring, pushing and holding down the white insert, and pulling the bowden out, while holding DOWN the insert ( it has little knives to holde the tube, which are disabeled when you push it down. turn the wheel in "move material" menu choice, and verify that the pla is moving. if there is a larger "drop" on the end of the pla filament, cut it off or it gets stuck in the bowden tube. If it IS stuck, heat the bowden on the outside with a lighter. the filament will be unstuck immediately (3-5 secs). Once you got the pla to move back and forth by turning the wheel, try to hold it and see that it pulls STRONGLY. IF it does, you have a blocked hot end. See atomic etc.. If it pulls weakly (like a small child can hold the filament end) before skipping you have an issue in the extruder assembly. Beware it is a little fiddly to re-assemble but you will manage, should you decide to open it. Re-inserting the bowden is fiddly too, make sure it ENTERS the top of the teflon coupler and sicks ca 5mm (until it stops) into it. Hold it down FIRMLY while pulling up the white insert locking the tube and inserting the horeseshoering (little bit fiddly). good luck. Lets hear tomorrow how it went.

Yes ChrisR! And in my experience, the difference all over is in the region of 0.1mm. It is a one time job to correctly level it, remember there is actually a 3d screw too, in the back. After that, only re-level "electronically" (after disassembly of head, etc) , since the inter-bed-level does not need re-adjustment, almost ever.

Please try loosening the 4 long vertical knurled bolts keeping the whole hotend assembly together. It has helped several by decreasing the pressure on the end of the teflon coupler. If the teflon coupler had a hot life ( 240 +) then it has decomposed somewhat, inducing the lower end of it to collapse and getting a "grip" on the filament. Just have them finger tight, make sure the brass gliders are still in the correct postion, the ones on the X and Y axis.

Maybe... maybe in Cura you accidentally put nozzle size to 0.8, while actually meaning to put something else at 0.8. If you did that, the extruder would try to push out ca 4 times more filament .....

Gr5 did a job on this:

Liebe Schnecke! Das loch wird mit der Zeit grösser, ins besondere wenn man glowfill (chemisch abgeschleift), und auch beim Schreiben mit Bronze od Copperfill.. Wenn die "Nase" genügend abgeschliffen ist, dan kommt man in ein Gebiet im Mundstück an wo das Loch sich mehr u mehr erweitern wird.. Sollte nicht zu viel ausspucken, eher zu wenig, weil ja Cura nicht weiss dass das Loch momentan 0.6 ist.. oder? -Bisch sicher dass das Loch 0.6 GANZ DURCH ist? -s

Any number of reasons: Partially blocked bowden tube ( particles from extruder process inside tube) blocked nozzle/head (most likely, check Atomic Method, reco use PLA and 220/85) partially destroyed teflon coupler too low temperature (= blocked nozzle) This is not for you since you say you CAN print slowly, but still:bowden tube not correctly inserted into teflon coupler, so filament is stopped before entering any metal part in hot end top end.. far possible: filament squared due to wrong storage (would have to be really wrong), malmanufacture, so not sufficiently round and oversized (least likely)

If you level it, after the wine, .. you can start printing stuff like this: The woodfill part was printed mostly at 210, at the end I increased it to 230 (regret).. as you can see it is a little burnt.. Smell is nice, like in a woodworkshop. Woodfill; layer 0.15, nozzle 0.80mm, speed needs experimenting. try 30mm/sec. Material flow 125-135%. Retraction OFF.. this material needs to keep flowing.