meduza

No, that would need some modification to the case.

You could probably order it SLS printed from Shapeways or a similar service? Or you can just use my belt geared feeder upgrade to get something similar to the 2+, should fit with no problems on the UM2Go: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade

It softens quite a lot at 65 degrees, so i would not use PLA if it would be exposed of temperatures of 60 degrees or higher. I would go for a Co-polyester like Colorfabb nGen instead.

Haha @IRobertI, i was also thinking about printing some of those when i first saw them, but i paid up for a early-bird offer of the original product instead, so i will get mine in late august (since i opted for the upgraded version) :-)

Simplify3D is good because you can tweak it a lot, but it is not a magic thing to get good prints. I mostly use Cura and print down to 0.04mm with a very high success rate.

I my mind it just feels so wrong to add a oil into the extrusion system, i am no polymer chemist, but that added oil has to go somewhere, and extra oil in the plastic will probably make for less layer adhesion etc...

@nallath, haha yes that is pretty easy to miss since most of the advanced users just skips by the simple mode and never touch it :-)

This is not correct, what is said above is that the _machining_ should not be that much more expensive than machining high grade steel, but high-grade steel are more expensive than machining aluminium. The material cost compared to aluminium are trough the roof tough, a meter of 20mm aluminium rod might be about 10€, and a meter of 20mm PBI rod is about 1000€, so the material cost is x100 compared to a traditional all-metal hotend. If a company were to sell a full hotend, it would probably cost a few hundred €

I would not use a FDM printer for that, the parts are simply too small.

Not yet, but Ultimaker have a policy of releasing source files 6 months after shipping a new model, so it should not be too far away. There is not that many changes tough, so you can use the UM2 step files for most stuff.

I can confirm that the backorders to the distributors are not filled yet.

Sorry, i am pretty sure it is a E3D BigBox and not a Ultimaker you see in the video

Try to run the STL file trough Netfabb's cloud fixing engine: https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/

So i finally got around to it and finished my design of a mount to be able to mount the UM2+ feeder to a UMO, and therefore be able to use the whole Extrusion Upgrade Kit including the printhead if used in combination with my printhead top piece. It prints beautifully without support and it has a slot to hold the cable bundle with three zipties for tidy cable management :-) I'll hope some of you guys gets use out of it, since i do not own a UMO+ myself... ^_^ So, here it is: With the new feeder mounted (without motor): Get it on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo You will also need my printhead top part to be able to mount the UM2 head the right way: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo

I belive it should be no problem, there is really not that many parts that could be abraded to cause a problem...

It is time to change out that PTFE, even if i have seen worse.

Those nozzles are often of very bad quality, the inside is not smooth, the small orifice are usually not anywhere near the nominal size, it can easily differ by +/- 0.1mm wich is a huge amount in a nozzle and it can also vary a lot in internal drill depth wich makes the exit hole differ in length which in turn changes the nozzles printing characteristics (pressure, oozing, stringing etc) a lot. And even if one works well, there is no guarantee that the next one will. I would not spend my time with such trial and error, but you are of course free to try.

It is a standard M6x1mm thread for the nozzle. Do not get tempted to buy the cheapest nozzles you can get just because they fit tough, some of them are produced with really crappy tolerances and rough surfaces, and it does affect your extrusion speed and surface quality greatly!

Yes, it also has another stepper motor with only 200 steps instead of 400 steps per revolution, and a small plastic gear pressed on the shaft.

I also printed a stamp the other day, but i did that in the Form1+ :-)

I would suggest that you change the bed temperature in steps of 5C or so

Slightly higher temp is usually what you should try if warping is your problem. I run all my PLA prints at 60C bed temperature with clean glass, and use glue stick if i need better adhesion. Different brands of PLA does need slightly different temperatures for best bed adhesion tough, and some brands, especially the cheaper ones, are known to not adhere that well to clean glass. Off-topic: @IRobertI, i know you have been using lots of blue tape for other stuff than printing tough...

Nope, it is Fusion 360 :-) I'll hope you show some pictures of your self-sourced UM2 Extended when you are done!

I just checked the CAD drawings, a 360mm screw should be no problem, the back cover will interfere with the belts at ~345mm so anything more than that will be safe to use.

It is how the UM2+ are made by default