meduza

Can you show us some pictures? Have you done the X-Y Calibration?

@Wisar and everybody else: It is out in the wild! https://3dprint.com/160091/3dverkstan-launches-olsson-ruby/ http://olssonruby.com

E3D V6 is hands-down the better solution for the tinkerer that wants to run high-temperature filaments, no questions about that, and the Titan is a better feeder than the original UM2 feeder if you still use that. If you want to replace the feeder and already have a Olsson Block, you can buy the Titan, motor and bowden coupling separately for 57,5£ and get the new TFM coupler and rigid spacer for about 15€ from your Ultimaker reseller, and print @Labern's fanshroud. That will take your feeder and hotend to similar performance to the UM2+ at a even lower price point There is no need to downgrade your hotend for regular PLA use in the process if you are not a tinkerer aiming to use high-temp polymers. (and yes, a lot of people have problems with all-metal hotends and PLA, try a search on google and you will find a lot of them.) What i react against is E3D marketing it as a "best for everyone" kit, and using "easy to change nozzles" as a marketing thing, where in reality, i cannot even get how E3D still can supply hotends with such a crappy user experience in the area of changing nozzles.

No tape needed, but i use a liberal layer of glue stick anytime i work with XT to avoid glass damage. @GummyBearBandit: I am running a test of nozzle wear right now, and the 0.5mm stainless nozzle i used to print about 0.5kg (~65m) is about 0.3mm shorter than before the test. This has also lead to that the outer diameter of the shoulder is doubled which in combination with a shorter channel does significantly alter printing performance.

The testing round is over for now and it is going on sale soon, but stay put, who knows what the next innovation that needs testing is going to be...

If everything goes according to plan, it will be released this year

I have done it quite a few times, my printers are about 25h into printjobs of 43 and 66 hours with XT-CF20 right now :-)

Actually, the Olsson Block that is standard on the UM2+ and available as a upgrade for the UM2 is way easier to change nozzles on, and it can use any E3D Nozzle.

I have done prints like this with corkfill and a 0.6mm nozzle without any hiccups: That one took about 57 hours and more than one full spool of CorkFill to complete

I totally gave up steel nozzles about a year ago, printing with Anders "The Olsson Ruby" nozzles is "the shit" for carbon and glow filaments, no need to slow down or raise the temperature, and it will not wear out anytime soon :-) (Full disclosure: i have been testing and helping out with production of these awesome nozzles that is going to be available very soon now)

I would say that any filler in a filament are acting as a abrasive on the nozzle, to different degrees tough, where the wood filled ones are on the low end, then the soft metals like bronze, brass and copper, above that you find harder metals like steel, and glow-in-the-dark and carbon filled filaments make up the high end. I would prefer my UM2+ for printing wood filled filament, since i have had a lot of troubles with jams in 0.4mm nozzles, and amazing success with 0.6mm nozzle and wood filled filaments :-)

I can tell you without printing what would happen if you tried to print the test model that Formlabs used on a Ultimaker 3. The features would not show up at all. Why? All the features they test are smaller than the 0.4mm nozzle, so the slicer (Cura) will just ignore them.

Manual supports is not included in Cura yet, i know there are some plans for it, but that will be in some future release.

If you have some machining skills, it is totally doable to modify a print core to be whatever nozzle size you want if you are a bit careful :-) I know some people have already machined blocks with interchangable nozzles for their own use. It is not unproblematic tough, since these nozzles will sit lower than the original nozzles, you need to use two of them (can not be used with the BB core), and they will be more sensitive to cooling by the print head fans.

@DLMeyer, the official dual extrusion development did cease quite a long time ago, it is almost two years now since Ultimaker announced that there would be no dual upgrade kit since it requires more changes than what is feasible in a upgrade kit. About the Prometheus, it all depends on what you are after, if you only want to print with two colors of the same material and are OK with wasting quite a lot of material on a large prime tower to purge the hotend on every layer, then it would be totally possible to go for a solution like the Prometheus. If you want to do printing with PVA support and dual materials and are ok with a smaller build area, then you should look at the amzing @foehnsturm tool changer which is in beta right now: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer

Really only part you need to replace is the coupler, and if you have the older 25W heater you should upgrade to a 40W heater.

Pushing the hotend to 290 will destroy your PTFE/TFM coupler in no time, it is possible to reach the temperature if you have at least a 35W heater (included in the UM2+), but you will have to do some kind of modification to the hotend, either by adding a insulating washer like the I2K that increases the life of the coupler, or replacing the hotend entirely with a all-metal hotend like the E3D V6. The most promising option i have seen is the PBI coupler @gudo is testing in combination with @neotko's FatIRobertI feeder. (it requires more force to push the filament with this coupler) All these options do affect your performance printing regular PLA negatively tough.

If you install the Tinkergnome firmware, you can change the bed temperature up to 120C, but the UM2 heated bed is really not powerful enough to reach it easily. It differs a bit between different units, but one of my UM2+ printers stabilizes pretty much at 108C when using the printer with a plexiglass door, and just a few degrees over 100C without the door. If you cover the top it can probably reach higher temperatures. @ultiarjan: i believe that you mean 95 and not 195 degrees on the bed

Well, a 0.2mm nozzle does come with its own bunch of challenges, one problem is that the nozzle might be radiating too much heat into your print and make it less sharp. Any pictures of your print?

I would personally not downgrade my printer to a E3D V6 hotend (all-metal construction gives worse PLA performance and the nozzle swap is a huge hassle...) I would rather get a 3rd party 1.75mm Olsson block and coupler, like the ones @gr5 sells, swap the feeder to the 1.75mm version of @neotko's FatIRobertI feeder (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3) and use my printed printhead top piece (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-print-head-top-for-1-75-filament) and a piece of 2-4mm bowden. That is as close as you can get to a Ultimaker made for 1.75mm filament. If you do not like to print your own feeders, the E3D titan is a ok budget choice, and the 1.75mm Bondtech QR would probably be the best, but the FatIRobertI gives incredible value for the money.

Short answer: NO. Long answer: It is possible to buy some new 3rd party parts made for 1.75mm and rebuild the printer to use exclusively 1.75mm filament if you have very specific reason for doing it. It will cost you <200€ but you will be unable to use 2.85mm filaments after the conversion.

What has happened with that print core is that you have broken off the heatbreak, i would say it is pretty useless in its current state.

We have tried printing some with InnoSolve from Innofil3D https://www.innofil3d.com/product/innosolve-natural-2-85mm-500gr/ It is not as good as Ultimaker PVA, it prints pretty well, but when dissolving InnoSolve it clouds the water much faster since there is some other component in it that is not transparent and dissolves slower than the pure PVA, but in a shortage of the best thing... :-) And yes, if using PVA of any other brand, the BB core is what you should use.

That is actually one of the features from the old cura that i do miss a bit... even if it was slow.

@oddoutput: That is expected behavior and not a easy thing to solve, it is caused by Cura trying to connect to see if there is any printers connected (otherwise it cannot know if there is any printers there). Then what happens is that the Ultimainboard automatically will reset when this connection happens, this is a necessary feature inherited from its arduino base, or you would not be able to send firmware updates to the printer easily. Dont keep the USB cable plugged in is my recommendation.