meduza

@Sforsyth: Just drop 3DGBIRE a email and request the parts you want, they will be able to supply them. The hotend consists of: #2283 - Heater Cartridge 35W #2288 - PT100B sensor #2278 - TFM Coupler #2275 - Isolator Spacer #1310 - Hot end Isolator (the stainless part that sits under the spacer) #2311 - Olsson Block

@bob-hepple: you are welcome :-)

The UM2+ should not have a spring above the TFM coupler (yes it is a new material compared to the UM2), it should instead have a rigid aluminium spacer that looks like this.

@bob-hepple: The plastic gears is actually a great feature, they both make the gearing quieter compared to metal gears, but they also thermally decouples the stepper from the drive gear, which insures you will not get problems with PLA softening from the heat. This is a problem with the original UM2 feeder, and there has even been some reports stating that the bondtech feeders has some problems with thermal coupling making PLA soft, especially in hot summer temperatures. I am not saying that the Bondtech feeders are not great, they are. It is just not needed to solve this problem, what @philippe44 should do is get in contact with the support so he can get the newer longer gear that does not slip to the wrong position, just like @supermanny did.

Just going to a 40W heater does not need that, only replacing the heater is enough

What we have recommended previously when customers ask is to get a Kensington "security slot adapter" plate, which is normally used to add locking slots to ultrabooks and tablets. Just glue the plate to the Ultimaker and use a standard Kensington wire lock to attach it. https://www.kensington.com/en/tr/4483/k64995ww/security-slot-adapter-kit-for-ultrabook

What you can do in Cura 2.3 is that you can use the "Gradual infill steps" to print with a very low infill for most of the model and then doubling or quadrupling the % when you are close to a top surface. Works pretty well, especially when printing large "boxes" that does not need a lot of infill but flat top surfaces.

@ElzabE3D: OK, lets give you guys some facts then: Basically, the Olsson block was designed as a drop-in upgrade kit to be able to use E3D nozzles on our UM2's, since the E3D-style nozzles were the most common and had the most options (sizes, materials, etc) available. Therefore, any nozzle that will fit a standard (non-volcano) V6 made for 2.85mm filaments will also fit the Olsson Block, regardless of nozzle size or material. The UM2/2+ hotend is a PTFE/TFM lined hotend that can take any 2.85mm filament, and it can print pretty much any filament with a print temperature of 260 degrees or lower. There is some people claiming to not be able to use higher-temperature filaments well in the UM2, this is because the original UM2 hotend use a PTFE liner which is spring loaded, this setup does wear quite fast if printing at temperatures over 250C This is fixed in the UM2+ with a new material, TFM, and a rigid aluminium spacer which gives the hotend very long lifetime before needing to replace the spacer even at higher temperatures. About the feeder, the original UM2 feeder is a bit underpowered and has some problems with thermal transfer from the motor to the drivegear making PLA soft. This is also one of the things that was fixed in the 2+. The UM2+ feeder is a geared feeder that is much stronger, i believe it is pretty much on par with the Titan even if i have not done a head-to-head shootout. What do i think your upgrade feature compared to the Ultimaker Extrusion Upgrade Kit: Hotend: Possibility to print filaments in the 260+ range (tough with a much less smooth nozzle change than the Olsson block) Feeder: The Titan is probably the better feeder for flexibles, the UM2+ feeder does not have as tight internals where flexibles can bend and jam. The Titan is also the better option if you want to convert your UM2 to a 1.75mm printer, since the original feeders cannot push 1.75mm filaments well. That is pretty much it. Sorry if i expressed myself in a harsh way, i was just expecting less marketing bs from you guys at E3D

@ElzabE3D: Can you explain why in the "comparison" on your wiki you try to make it sound like the E3D V6 can use many more nozzle sizes, and also more nozzle materials than the 2+, when in reality any nozzle you can fit to a standard V6 also will fit the Olsson Block? Also, you list the UM2 and the UM2+ as both having a "UM+ Standard Extruder" wich is a pretty weird thing since they have different feeders and i have not heard about the "UM+" extruder before... Also you try to make it sound like the UM2+ cannot use any other materials than the UM filaments... In reality the only thing you can do with the V6 wich cannot be done with the 2+ is stuff that requires temperatures higher than 260C. I get that you are doing the "marketing bullshit" thingy, but seriously, quite a few of the UM customers are also customers of yours... if you claim to have a "raw specifications" comparision, make it so and don't be lying to them!

Do you have a original UM2 (not UM2+) ? If so, you have a 25W heater cartridge, and you can reach the thermal limit of that one pretty easy with such a large nozzle. Just to be sure, check that your Olsson block is not touching the fan shroud at any point, that sucks heat away and will limit your performance. I would suggest to get a higher power heater, for example the UM2+ one that is 35W, or the ones from some third-party resellers that make them up to 50W (be aware that you woulbe be using a 50W on your own risk, you are pretty close to the limit of the power budget for the printer, and it might reboot if you have a power supply that has its overload limit a bit low, i would suggest to not get higher than 40W) If you have a high-power heater you might actually reach another thermal limit with such a large nozzle, the limit on how fast the heat can travel from the surface to the center of the filament because of the thermal resistance of the plastic.

I haven't seen any Marlin versions compiled for the Makerbot mainboard, but what can be done is using Sailfish instead of the original firmware to gain some extra features: http://www.sailfishfirmware.com

Now i am not very experienced with Makerbots, i try to keep away from them I'll think that you can use GPX (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81425) or ReplicatorG (http://replicat.org/) to convert your Cura .gcode file to the X3G that your machine uses.

Really? In the video you can see that E3D includes a replacement stepper with a pre-assembled drive gear (42 seconds into the video):

The best would be a ruby tipped nozzle, those have a fantastic abrasion resistance, @neotko did run a whole pile of XT-CF20 trough a beta version of the Olsson Ruby (i believe it was about 10kg) with no abrasion visible under a microscope :-)

Correct, you do not need the prime tower if you use the model material as support material. The Support Extruder option will not show unless you tick the box "Enable Support"

Yes, it is actually pretty simple to do, just choose PLA as the support extruder:

It is not a question of taking away, it is about not adding it (yet), since it is a completely new system that controls the display and menus.

@ian: I have not seen any 3rd party nozzles / print cores for the UM3 yet, so there is no place to get abrasion resistant nozzles for the UM3 at the moment. As a side track, Stainless Steel nozzles are really not desirable, they do wear and you have to lower your print speed and up your temperature since stainless have so bad thermal performance.

@ian: No, not at the moment.

@ian, yes, carbon filled filaments does really wear your nozzle badly. When printing XT-CF20 with regular brass nozzles, it can consume 2-3 nozzles per spool of filament if you want to keep printing with good quality. There is a soon-to-be-relased solution for the UM2+ wich is very abrasion resistant: http://learn.colorfabb.com/the-olsson-ruby/

AA + AA, BB is made especially for PVA.

There is no official date yet, but i would be surprised if we had to wait for more than a few months.

The UM3 feeder assemblies are part nr 9682 (left) and 9685 (right), and the feeder motor assembly are part nr 9470, i dont know when they are going to be available to buy tough. @SandervG might know? On a non-plus UM2 it would be possible to mount them like on the UM3 without drilling since the second feeder holes are still in the backplate. Drilling a motor mounting hole is actually pretty simple if you use a 22mm holesaw like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351222612068, but i understand if people are reluctant to drill holes in their UM2+

CPE+ is not officially supported for the UM3 yet, neither is it available with NFC tag. Currently it is only supported for the UM2+ with the Advanced 3D Printing Kit. The supported materials for UM3 is at the moment: Nylon, PLA, ABS, CPE & PVA Official support (wich includes both spools with NFC tags and Cura material profiles) for CPE+ is coming sometime in the next few months, also support will be added for PC and TPU95A.

ABS/PVA is generally accepted to be a total no-go combination. Another option if you really want to print ABS might be using ABS with Polymaker PolySupport or ABS with HIPS support.