meduza

I would not count on that, especially since the reason for not releasing dual extrusion for the UM2 was that it needed too much changes to be a upgrade kit...

Machinable Wax maybe? http://machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52 "Extrusion temperature = 135°C-150°C"

I believe you also do have a problem with a stuck caps lock button on your keyboard... About the fans not starting, try to increase the "kickstart" period to a higher amount, your fans might be harder to get spinning than the original UM2 fans In the Configuration_adv.h file you will find this line: #define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 100 change that to 1000, and see if it works then Also, are you printing with Ultigcode from Cura? if not, then you have to do your own start gcode to do the priming of the hotend for you.

As @neotko says, if you cut down on the brim to 3mm a 198x198x12mm object it fits fine:

You will get no official answer except a "no", since the Ultimaker is not certified to be food safe, certification does cost a lot, takes a lot of time and would probably require it to only be used with a certain material etc. That said, most of the components in the printer do contain nothing that could be even remotely dangerous, yes the brass in the heater block and nozzles do probably contain lead, but it is in the low single-digits (1-4%), so the amount that possibly could get transferred to the plastic would be incredibly low as long as you do not use a extremely abrasive material, and that lead would in turn be mostly encapsulated in the plastic.

XT-CF20 is very stiff and a bit hard to feed, be sure to increase the tension on your feeder to max and change the printing speeds to make all speeds similar to the layers you manage to print with good results. The steel nozzle also reduces your max print speed because of its much worse thermal properties than brass, the best nozzles for printing CF20 is the Ruby tipped nozzles that Anders Olsson has been developing which are going to be released soon. (they are great, @neotko has printed many kilos of CF20 with it without damage to the nozzle, and very good printing performance!)

No there is not, there already are a few threads on this topic, it all comes down to that these features are not needed by Ultimaker since USB printing is not supported and very rarely used (and Ultimakers are auto-detected, so they need no com port configuration) This makes it a non-priority of the Cura team at Ultimaker, and combined with the fact that Wanhao (the manufacturer of the Monoprice i3) and some of the other manufacturers (for example Printrbot) that use Cura as a slicer does not seem interested in supporting the Cura development at all... If someone develops a nice USB printing interface for Cura 2.x, i am sure that the Cura team would considerate putting it in the main release, but as long as that does not happen, there will be no USB printing support in Cura 2.

@drayson: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-laser-cut-drawings--2 Or if you go to the Ultimaker GitHub you can actually get Rev3.5.9 of the drawings: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/blob/master/UltimakerLasercutDrawingsV1_6mmRev3.5.9.ai

Not true, they are shipping the exact same mean well power supplies as always...

Because it requires larger changes to the printer to make a reliable dual extrusion printers (just adding that second nozzle in a fixed position like most manufacturers do... that will never work reliably and out-of-the-box, ruining the Ultimaker experience)

Firstly, Brim is absolutely not always needed, i print 95% of all my prints without brim, and the skirt is also possible to do without so subtracting brim/skirt from the build area is totally unreasonable... (no manufacturer would do that) If you really need those corners there is a mod you can do, i do not really recommend this, but it will enable you to print those rectangles you seem to want. Just get a sheet of 3M 468MP: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291519172795 and use it to adhere the glass plate to the heater board, and remove the clips, then it is just removing a few lines from the Cura machine file and you are good to go.

Mine says BETA, both on splash screen and in the "about" section:

I have also done exactly that (mounted a UM2 printhead to a UMO), and am happy with it. But yes, if you are printing at 270 continuously and dont care for PLA, then you should either use a All-metal hotend or a UM2 printhead with the new coupler and a isolator like the I2K from 3DSolex, or a custom coupler like the IPM or the PBI ones.

You really have to be abusing that poor PTFE coupler, i have been nowere close 100h for replacement when running UMO, and with my new UM2+ i have over 800 hours on the TFM coupler with barely visible signs of wear when looking at the TFM. Also, i do think the UMO hotend is flawed for the same reason... it is just that the E3D V6 has had a lot more iterations and should have the nozzle change fixed by now...

Well, that part, and the fact that you have to do it with two tools is honestly a design flaw... it makes it way harder to swap nozzles than it have to be (look at the Olsson block, heat it to a bit over 100c, unscrew the nozzle and screw the new one in with ~0.5Nm torque, and you will be fine, with one single tool)

Bought a Ultimaker 2+ in kit form... well you did buy a crappy clone, with 99.9% certainty, the UM2 or UM2+ has never been offered in a kit form.

Look in the json file for "Ultimaker Original Dual Extrusion", that one got fully functioning dual extrusion implemented. If you use windows you will probably find it here: C:\Program Files\Cura 2.3\resources\definitions\ultimaker_original_dual.def.json

First, take out a caliper and measure your filament in a bunch of places, calculate the average diameter and enter that into the Diameter box. Then increase your bottom/top thickness to 1.2mm (6 times your layer thickness), and raise your temperature by 5-10 degrees and try that print again.

There was no 2.2 release, it went straight to 2.3 Beta

No, it cannot be used, it will most likely cause problems, and if it does work it will not produce any nice output.

The people that could tell you have NDAs that prevent them to do that... But in this interview from early this year: https://all3dp.com/ultimaker-interview/ Jos (Ultimaker CEO) said “we will launch new machines this year with new functionalities and new software. Even sooner than a lot of people would expect it.”

The UMO+ uses the same driveboard, temp sensors and voltages as the UM2, so most stuff that works for the UM2 works for the UMO+ Re: the original question of @aelric23, i belive that it would actually be pretty simple to add a E3D Chimera to a UMO, just get it with the new V6 cartridge based heater blocks with 24V heaters and PT100 sensors, and it will be a more or less a plug-in solution electrically wise. Then replace the feeder with two E3D Titans and some 2/4mm bowden tubing, these will also be plug-in on the driveboard. and you will have done your 1.75mm conversion. After that, it is just a matter of some firmware hacking to get dual extrusion going.

@nallath did comment the lack of USB printing interface here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22398-cura-23-beta-is-here?page=2#reply-156660 What you as a printrbot user should do is to push Printrbot to help out (i.e hire a developer) that helps the Cura team out with that part, since it is not a focus for Ultimaker.

Get a lathe/mill combination and make them yourself

Yeah, underextrusion is what you get with the wrong e-steps setting, since the feeder feeds to little filament in this case... That is why you need to set the e-steps setting and calibrate it correctly.