anon4321

DISREGARD - THIS IS NOT THE L VERSION WHICH HAS THE BENT PINS. REGARD - The correct L part is - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/R-78B12-10L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RfQvc4xooI3I%252by2zpaVmQHw%3D'>http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/R-78B12-10L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RfQvc4xooI3I%252by2zpaVmQHw%3D If you wanted to replace the regulator with a switching version compatible with higher input voltage, this one might be ideal: (updated to the L version). http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/R-78B12-10L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RfQvc4xooI3I%252by2zpaVmQHw%3D Contrary to the picture on Mouser's site, it is the horizontal version but still might require clearancing the cover. It is pin compatible with the linear regulator and can supply 1A. No guarantee however....

This is the board image of the released 1.5.7: http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_699/gallery_33216_699_217836.png

I reconfirmed that the 1.5.7 version powers ALL fans from Pin. Callum, I think we discussed this before but you may have a weird prerelease version or simply an older version. The current 1.5.7 version does not have connectors off of the 12V regulator. The only thing powered by the 12V regulator is the arduino. Here is the schematic in enough resolution so you can see the labels. Note that VCC/2 is Pin and VCC is 5V. http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_699/gallery_33216_699_102360.png

Oh and one major question!! Did you measure the filament size? It's referred to as 3mm filament but the UMs actually use 2.85mm and anything muck bigger than 2.9 can jam. A lot of vendors sell 3mm that is really 2.85 but some sell filament that is truly 3mm and can be too big for the UMs

Note that I believe the current board runs the electronics cooling fan and the material cooling fan from Pin. Previous versions did have connectors for fans that cam off of the 12V regulator. The current version does not. Get yourself a voltmeter and check. However, trust me when I say I tried a 12V fan for the material cooling and it instantly went up in smoke and I measured the full on voltage at 19.5V. I don't have access to the schematic from where I am but look at it on UM's open source site. Pin is labelled VCC/2, Notice that VCC/2 is taken straight from the power connector. VCC/2 is what is send to both the material and electronics cooling fans. On the current board, I believe the only thing that runs from 12V is the Arduino. If you move to 24V, the things you need to be concerned about are: The heater (probably OK as it is listed as 18V and controlled via PWM) The 12V material fan currently driven at Pin will run at 24V (will probably burn out) and a few LEDs (may burn out) The heat from the 12V regulator if used. As for the MOSFETs -The hotend heater MOSFET will probably be ok. You might be able to use the HB MOSFET on board IF you use a heavy gauge jumper on the critical traces. I believe it is a low side switch so one leg goes to ground. Use a jump to that pin and connect to - on your 24V PS. The other pin goes to the screw terminal. Back that up with a jumper. The third (middle I believe but don't trust that, find a spec sheet or the schematic) other is the signal and you don't need to do anything with that. The other screw terminal is connected to VCC/2 which is Pin so use a jumper to connect it to + on the PS. Carefully monitor the connector to see if it is heating up due to the HB current.

So since you replaced most of the components in the hotend and it seems that the temperature is right, let's look elsewhere. I would pull the filament back a little (10cm or more) and while holding the filament where it enters the feeder/drive on the back of the printer, try to advance to filament with the controller to see how well the feeder is gripping the filament. Note that the hotend needs to be hot otherwise the firmware will prevent the cold feed. Also examine the filament for the knurled pattern the drive bolt makes and check for spots where the drive bolt may have ground a divot into the filament when you pull it back. It could be you don't have enough pressure or too much pressure on the wheel that presses the filament against the drive bolt. Also note that the "latch" the holds the pressure bracket closed needs to be pushed all the way down vertically while you hold the bracket closed before you lever it out. There is a bit of a cam action when the end of the lever it is push all the way down and flipped out that adds more clamping pressure. Been burnt by that one a few times as when it is closed and only partially pushed down, the pressure bracket remains closed and seem to apply some pressure to the wheel. The bolt that holds that lever should be all the way to the bottom of the slot and then you rotate the level out: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/8634469689/ Also peek in on the knurled bolt. It might be covered with plastic especially if you had some slippage/grinding. I tore mine down once to clean it and it greatly increased it's gripping ability. While you are at it, check that the wheel on the hinged portion of the assembly smoothly pushes in and out against the spring. These are the assembly instructions for the feeder - http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Material_feed_mechanism When you load the filament, is there much resistance pushing the filament through the tube into the heater?

This is what I see through the My Gallery link: You might need to create an album first.

Also do you have a separate way to measure the nozzle temp? It could be the temperature is not reported correctly and running cold.

Up at the top right is your user name. Click the down arrow and pick My Gallery.

The electronics cooling fan is 24V already and is undervolted. The one you need to be careful of is the material cooling fan on the head. That one is 12V. However, contrary to the popular misconception that it is powered by 12V, it's not. It is powered by the raw input voltage which is normally 19V and considerably overvolting it already. At 24V PIN, you may burn out that fan.

This is a UM1 right? If so, the fan is only for cooling the material and not the hotend. How are you cleaning the blockage? There is something called the Atomic method. Based on that, I just start with a cold hot end, set it to something like 190. As the hotend heats out, pull on the filament as if you are going to remove it. Once it hits the right temperature, it will release (I think around something like 180 but it probably depends of the brand of material). Remove the filament and cut off the end 5cm or so and discard. Replace the filament and increase the temp to something like 210 and extrude some. Let the hotend cool and repeat. This will help grab anything in the nozzle that is plugging it up. The more extreme thing would be to remove the nozzle and heat it up to the point of burning out any plastic and anything else in the nozzle. It's important that when the fan is used that it isn't blowing on the nozzle. This would cause the nozzle's temperature drop and could cause a jam and filament grinding.

Ahhh, I see. So the infill shape is set by say the lowest shell layer in your attached example but continues upward at 90 degrees. However, to meet up with the infill, the layers higher up are thicker or could "bend" in to close the gap... Interesting.... Quick, get a patent! Daid from this forum is the best to speak to this. Not sure how much time you would save or how much increased resolution you would get. It seems like the slicer is unexpected complex to handle all the variations and it might be too hard to implement when compared to the benefit.

OK, don't panic. So you replaced the drivers at some point, correct? One possible issue is that the drivers have thermal protection which causes them to shutdown if they get too hot. Did you replace them with the same drivers from UM? Or did you get them elsewhere? If elsewhere, do they have the little heatsink on them? They are pretty ubiquitous but most other sources don't put the heatsinks on them If they are from UM, it's possible the current limit is set too high causing the drivers to overheat and shutdown. They reenable themselves after cooling so if you are seeing the motors shut off and then back on, that might be the cause. Let's see if we can solve this problem before the temp sensor. However, on that issue, the Arduino is supplied by a 12V regulator on the shield near the drivers. It too has thermal protection and may shutdown leading to all sorts of problems one of which could be the temp sensor problem (if the shutdown is very brief). One way to test this is there is a jump on the board near the extruder driver sockets that when removed, disconnects the 12V supply from the Arduino. In addition to the 19V normal power, you would need to power the Arduino via the USB connector when the jumper is removed. BUT the port to which the Arduino connects needs to supply enough current. Some adapters for devices like Kindles can provide more than a normal computer USB port. If you use something that can supply enough current can and the regulator is part of the problem, you might see the temp sensor working better on USB power instead of the 12V regulator.

I don't think it's a retarded idea but I don't think it will work either. If I understand the suggestion, you propose printing the shell at 0.05mm while printing the infill at 0.2mm. The problem is that the infill must meet up with the shell. Think of the edge of the infill as a right angle that exactly vertical and is 0.2mm high. This right angle edge must be next to the shell so that the shell sticks to the infill. Given the infill's right angle and given that it must be next to the shell, the shell is basically constrained to be exactly the same for each layer that makes up the shell. In your example, the 4 layers that make up the one infill layer need to be exactly the same. The result is that you don't really get the increased resolution. One way you could work would be to allow only some layers meet the infill. The layers that don't can be different from the others that make up the shell. If in your example, the 2nd and 4th layers met the infill, the 1st and 3rd could be slightly different but not by much. You could have just one layer meet the infill allowing the others more deviation from the shape of the infill. In both of these examples, you would get more resolution in the shell at the cost of the strength of the bond between the shell and infill.

The shield on top of the Arduino is fairly simple. With respect to the drivers, there isn't much in the way of electronics between the Arduino and the driver socket with the exception of some capacitors. I would suggest you swap the extruder driver with one another driver and see if the problem moves to the other axis. NOTE HOWEVER THAT THE ORIENTATION OF THE DRIVERS CHANGE FROM THE EXTRUDER SIDE TO THE X,Y,Z SIDE. THE DRIVERS ARE NOT KEYED AND CAN BE INSERTED IN THE WRONG ORIENTATION. Just note the location of the screw/potentimeter on the driver board and be sure to orient the ones you are swapping the same way. Basically, if you move a driver from one side to another, you need to rotated it 180 degrees. IF THE ORIENTATION IS WRONG, THE DRIVER WILL BE DESTROYED AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE POWER ON. If the problem moves to the other axis, revert the drivers back to their original position and follow the information here on increasing the driver current for the extruder: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide However, it makes no sense that you should suddenly need to increase the current but its the only thing that I can suggest.

Jonny, your next mission is to design the following (I already have but want to see if I'm correct ;-) ) - On one side is a 3 pin connector that goes to the nozzle temp sensor input on the UM1 shield On the other side is an input from the nozzle temp sensor. In between, a LM339 is sampling the temp input which is passed unchanged to the other side (can be powered from the 5V on the sensor input on the shield). When the temp signal goes above the the value set by a potentiometer, the comparator output drives a (small) MOSFET which pulls a line to ground. The other side of the line is connected to the heatsink fan and the other lead of the fan is connected to 12v, 19v or 24v as required. Please be sure to - Incorporate hysteresis so noise does not cause the fan to go on and off without a sufficient change in temp (say 5C). Support both thermocouple and thermistor type sensors. Probably should incorporate an area for a pull up resistor for thermistors or even a jumper to enable it if it is populated. Additional note: the design should lean towards a low temperature setpoint of about 40C so the heatsink doesn’t absorb too much heat before the fan comes on. Please show all your calculations as they will be more than 74.12452876% of your grade….

Did you 3d print that circuit board? LOL! If you are going to that trouble, you should engineer in little races to set the wires in. If you get really tricky, you could have small bridges in key places that you could stuff the wires under or little tabs you could reheat and fold down to capture the wires.... Is that XT?

You need to have the resistor solder in. Any reading without it is going to be wrong.

Still not sure about your proportional change of the three constants. PIDs are one of those things that seem to be almost magic to me... I guess reducing the constants is a good first step for manual tuning. However, I'll just let autotune figure it out for me... you know like (oooo that's bad).

No, if you go back to the thermocouple, you need to use the amp board and remove the 4.7k resistor.

Was just looking at their forum. I believe the say start a 0 and work up to a max of 3 to 4 so your 2.5 might be the right number.

I don't believe there is anything special in Pronterface that couldn't be done in the built-in Pronterface Cura Print UI. Use M503 to get the current settings. It dumps everything but the output will currently have the PID values somewhere. Run the autotune via M303 At the end of the autotune run, it will tell you the values to use in the output display in the Cura Pronterface Print UI. Set them in memory using M301 P<value> I<value> D<value> where the values are those reported after the M303 run. The values are now set in memory. To store them (AND ALL OTHER CHANGES!): M500 If you want to power cycle and the electronics support it (the UM1 doesn't): Power off M81 Power on M80 Then use M503 to verify the PID values are in effect. I haven't seen any problems starting with a cold hot end. However, you can always do the first PID autotune then let the hotend cool some and do it again and see if the values are significantly different. Every run generates slightly different values. Finally, I don't believe mathematically that the PID values are proportional to power since the I and D are integral and derivation and those aren't typically proportional operations. Furthermore, it's not just about power in but also thermal mass and radiated heat loss which for the E3D end is probably significantly different than the stock hotend.

Jonny, I would use PID autotune on the new hotend. It worked really well for JasonHKs heated bed.

You can also go into Cura and File -> Preferences and set the print window type to Pronterface. Then use File -> Print (even if no model is loaded, cntl-p I believe on windows) to open the Pronterface like UI. On the bottom right is a box to enter commands and above it is the output of the printer. Issue your "M303 C8 S175" command in the bottom right box and wait for the printer to do it's thing. The PID autotune will output the P,I and D values to set in the printer output in the box above the command box.

One thing I heard about these E3D ends is they do NOT like retraction. Could that be the reason why the filament go stuck? I thought that one reason the E3D were good was there was a short thermal transition and as such much less tendency to weep melted filament. So maybe only a tiny bit of retraction is required just to reduce the pressure or none at all...