anon4321

Still not sure what you are trying to do. However, if you have a model with a thin "object" on it, Cura might be trying to do a shell. BY default, the shell thickness is .8mm or two nozzle widths so Cura will make two passes. If you make your object .41mm wide and set the shell thickness to .4, Cura might do it in one pass. Note that when I did some stiff that was exactly .4mm wide, Cura (or rather the slicer) removed it so you might need to do something like .41 or .4001.

I agree, can you explain what you want to do differently? Maybe sketch it out in an image and post here? I've had no problem printing down to .3mm and lower but you would need to change the first layer height. Also you can always drop down to gcode to do things Cura won't let you.

Vice nice work Jonny. Todo: add to your todo list: List of screw sizes/hardware required. If anyone prints it, note that it appears that there is support that needs to be removed on the fan mount.

if it is truly resonance, wouldn't adding weight to the bed lower the resonance frequency possibly avoiding the issue?

Yes, thanks. Stupid IE sometimes won't paste links in this forum....

Yes, File->Load Profile from gcode does NOT load the model. When Cura generates gcode, it outputs a comment at the beginning that calls out the parameters used (layer height, speed etc). Load Profile from gcode recovers this information from the comment. Not sure what happens if you use this on a file not generated by Cura. If you want to load gocde into Cura, simply use the Load model file... option and change the filter to .gcode. Note that in this mode, Cura only shows the layers view as I suspect reconstituting the 3D model from gcode is difficult and possibly problematic.

See this for information on Z speed. I couldn't reach the numbers Illuminarti did. I think I'm running 1200 and 40.

Message your ticket number to SanderVG using the forum's personal message (sometimes to referred to as a direct message or DM). He does community management for UM. He has helped with several orders.

I've already reported this in the 14.06 beta. If you have checked the self built heated bed option and upgraded the firmware, the printer is a temporarily bricked. You need to remove the Arduino and flash with the Arduiino IDE Then NEVER upgrade with Cura's update firmware option. Not quite sure why Cura isn't updated to provide a message that previous versions did when you checked self built bed and you tried to upgrade the firmware in Cura. I guess UM likes frustrating their customers or the support people need more calls to handle... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6016-possible-problem-with-cura-beta-um1-heated-bed/

Hey 3dguy. Yeah when you pick the self build heated bed option for the UM1, the firmware that Cura will flash is for a different bed temp sensor. I've run into this problem and the only way to recover is to remove the Arduino and flash directly from the Arduino IDE. I reported this problem with 14.06. Previous versions of Cura (either 14.01 or 14.03, not sure which) gave you a message that the firmware for the custom bed needs to be supplied by you and refuses to upgrade the firmware that came with Cura. I think that was a better solution than temporarily bricking the printer. But it's up to UM/Daid to address. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6016-possible-problem-with-cura-beta-um1-heated-bed/

The firmware might support this but it might require a custom build. I don't have experience with this but I suggest you review this: http://airtripper.com/1799/marlin-firmware-home-offset-guide-using-g-code-m206/ You can of course just try the m206. I suspect that changing the offset in one direction increasing or decreasing the Z gap) will work but the other direction may not due to either the software or hardware endstops. (You can ignore parts about enabling the EEPROM support. I think by default that is already enabled in the UM firmware).

Make sure you check my maths and my sources and assumptions!!!! So based on this: http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3D_Heat_Sink.jpg The distance from the "shoulder" is the total heatsink length (50.1mm) less the the thickness of the top "shoulder" (3.7mm). So 46.4. The distance from where that shoulder sits in the V5 mount to a plane that is just lower than the lowest part of the fan duct (which happens to be the screw "nubs") is 63.53 but let's call it 63.5mm. The distance from the lowest fin or bottom of the heatsink to the lowest part of the fan duct is 63.5-46.4 or 17.1 If you can determine the distance from the bottom of the heatsiink to the nozzle tip, I think subtracting 17.1 should give you the clearance of the duct to the print surface.

You have V5's assembled right? Can you tell me the distance from that lowest fin to the tip?

Regarding the height of the fan duct, I would check and mirror Nick's design since I assume that has been proven out.

One thing about the UM1 is the Z acceleration and feed rate settings are EXTREMELY conservative. Going from memory the are something like 100 and 10. I've up'ed by to 1200 and 40 so the Z axis "clicks". See http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/02/the-myth-of-z-speed/ In this case, I could see how that would impact the result. I could also see that backlash in the Z screw might not provide the repeatability required. However, that might be addressed by making the hop larger.

NO NO NO!!!! Mine is first!!!!! Print mine even though I haven't shared it! I WIN! :-)

I have Jason's V2 heated bed and I am driving it with a 280 watt power supply. As Jonny mentioned, the bed is what defines the power requirement. Jason recommends a 24V 10 amp supply which is 240 watts so it's safe to assume the bed draws less than 240 watts. Jonny's circuit is good. However, if you want an "off-the-shelf" solution, I'm using a somewhat expense (30USD) SSR from phidgets. See this thread for details on how I hooked it up - http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6014-heated-bed-build-and-a-question-about-the-z-stage/?p=55276

It is not a calibration problem. PLA and other thermoplastics shrink while they cool so you will always get parts that are slightly smaller than the model. There are three solutions to this listed below in most recommended to least recommended order - Most - Use Cura to scale the model before printing by a small percent. Medium - Use a CAD program to design or alter a model to account for shrinkage Not recommended - Change the steps per unit in the firmware. UM has calculated the correct steps per unit based on the mechanisms (pulleys) used. When the firmware needs to move the head a distance of say 10mm, the steps per unit are calculated such that the head accurately moves 10mm. It's not recommended you change these values as the error comes from another issue namely the shrinkage. The next one, changing the model, means that the model becomes specific to the type of material. If a model is altered to account for the shrinkage of PLA then it won't be accurate when it is printed in ABS which has a different shrinkage factor. The Z axis error is probably do to the bed leveling/distance to the nozzle which is very hard to get accurate.

I was able to complete and print Nick's design for the E3D v6 last night. I think it will work with the E3D block, heater and thermistor and Nick's fan duct. I added a bunch of support to assist in printing the body. Not sure I'm happy with it. Clean up was difficult.

How is this different than the head lift distance on the Expert Settings under retraction?

The thermocouple is two different metals pressed together held in be a ceramic insulator. How do I know this? I subscribe to the philosophy "Don't turn it on, take it apart!" (please read that quote aloud in an Australian accent). Here's a pic: I doubt that anything has happened to the sensor. The issue with TCs is the voltage differential they produce is very small and needs to be referenced to something called the cold junction temperature. This is done on the amp board and both aspects mean the process is very sensitive to EMI from the fan. Actually, I doubt that it is the PWM as when the fan is on @ 100%, there should be no PWM. Most likely, the noise comes from the fan's electronics. It's possible that even at 100%, there is still a minor (1/255) off time that results in PWM noise.

Nice time-lapse !!!!! It's funny to see them grow out of the build plate and watch the sun pass by....

Now this is what I'm talkin' about! Can't wait to see what you guys come up with. I'm already intrigued nu Aaron's support material and my first question will be how was it generated.

I believe that TEMP2 is for a second extruder/hotend and that additional wiring is also for the second hotend temp sensor. That option isn't available for the UM2 and only experimental on the UM1 (which also has a TEMP2 and additional three wire connector).

You should throw this one in the Monthly Print Challenge (MPC) and see what people can do with it...