anon4321

Four, there are four lights....

It's the NSA! When Cura detects the box, it enables the print button if a model is loaded as if you plugged the UM1 in...

Sorry, I'm a computer geek but I just need to say COOL!

Jemma, there is a jumper near the reg. Ensure that it is installed. It controls whether the Arduino is powered from the control board's 12V reg.

The amp board outputs a voltage proportional to the temp. You could simulate by placing a 6k resistor in series with a 4k resistor. Connect one lead of the 6K to 5V, the other lead to the 4K and the other lead on the 4K to ground Then connect the signal pin in the middle of the two resistors forming a voltage divider. If my calculations are correct (the typically are NOT!!!), this should present 2V to the signal pin which the UM should interpret as at 200C based on the datasheet for the AD597 here: http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/AD596_597.pdf Then you could harvest the amp board and TC for other machines.

I did not know that .... thanks. Could be very helpful when tuning/testing the feeder.

Don't quite understand your need to move the controller. If you need to remotely operate it, maybe a RaspPi and octoprint could serve as an inexpensive small host to run the printer?

Just note that the UM1 firmware has "cold extrusion protection" that prevents the feeder stepper from advancing if the hotend is not hot. So if the sensor, isn't reporting something like 170C, the feeder wont operate.

This is what my retainer looks like ... it is probably a little excessive actually. However, I can guarantee two things - the blue clip isn't doing squat and you could pick the printer up by the bowden tube and it won't pull out of the extruder ... Don't go to this level because the retainer clip could crush or cut into the tube. Just use a little slop in the four long screws to engage the clip as you tighten them. Cram the tube down into the teflon part and force the slack to the bottom. This results in a little extra tubing in the extruder which will then push up into the retainer as you tighten the four screws.. If the retainer doesn't move up a mm or 2, try a little more slack.

Never mind, I see it in the other pics. However, I also see you have the mod that retains the bowden tube on the extruder head. Be careful with that, it was noted by one of the mods or someone from UM that you can crush the tube with that mod to the point of causing excessive binding leading to underextrusion and jamming. If you have the original parts, I'd recommend you revert to them and follow the instructions i posted previously. Adding the preloading compression using the four screws and a little slack in them really locks the tube into the teeth of the retainer to the point that the clip isn't really required.

I think that offset is normal. I need to use a small screw driver to push the bowden tube towards the outside to get it to go into the white plastic. The build instructions even mention this: Review the steps starting at 21 at the link below to make sure you get the correct compression. Too much will cause the bowden tube to distort causing problems extruding and possibly cause jamming. Too little will affect retraction or if excessive, the tube will come out of the while teflon part. http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Extrusion_head It's hard to tell from your second photo... do you have the white teflon part that goes near the alum plate? If not, that is a problem...

Just remember that a quadcopter requires that two props run counter to the other two. This may cause problems with your combined wheel prop design.

Use a marker to mark the position of the pulleys with respect to the rods to see if the pulleys need to have the set screw tightened. Verify that the short belts aren't rubbing against the wood. Post a sample print and the people here will be able to diagnose quality problems and tell you what needs to be adjusted.

Jemma, In looking at your picture of the pressure wheel carrier mechanism and reading your comment on it, you definitely need to put the spring back on. You misunderstand the purpose of the screw and spring. The screw does NOT push and should NOT touch the wheel. If it does, I guarantee the feeder will stop feeding at some point. The wheel needs to spin freely. The screw is the base on which one end of the spring pushes. The other end of the spring pushes on the U like part which has the screw that forms the axle on which the wheel rides. When correctly assembled you should be able to push on the wheel and feel the spring tension. If the U shape part with the wheel doesn't slide and compress the spring smoothly, loosen the screw on which the wheel spins slightly under it has very little friction against the other parts and only the spring is containing it. Once you does this and you get the lever closed as Daid showed, you will find the feeder very reliable. edit - You might need to loosen the four screws that hold the plastic parts that surround the wheel so it slides smoothly.

Jemma, I can definitely tell you that you don't have the feeder set up correctly as Dim3nsioneer and Daid mentioned. You need to reassemble the feeder as it was originally with the spring and everything. The way you are doing it is going to or is the cause of your problems. The lever as Daid posted needs to be closed like this: Pull the tip of the level into the vertical position and simultaneously pull the level up until the screw on which it pivots slides to the top of the slot. Hold it in this position. Close the pressure wheel clamp and squeeze it into position while keeping the level pulled up. Now while holding the pressure wheel clamp closed and keeping the lever vertically oriented, slide the level down so that the screw on which it pivots is at the bottom of the slot but the lever remains vertical. Now the lever should be vertical with the pivot screw at the bottom of the slot You can now let go of the pressure wheel clamp and it should stay closed. HOWEVER, you now need to pivot the lever into the horizontal position as there is a bit of a cam mechanism that will pull the pressure wheel in a lit setting the final pressure.

Just be careful as the developer seems to really point out that it is patent pending....

Jonny, did you see this? It was a kickstarter project in the UK: http://www.bgobeyond.co.uk/

I agree with Jonny, best thing is consistency so if it reads 1C high or 3C low it always reads that way and if the temp is super critical to what is being printed, you know to adjust.

The worse case power dissipated by the resistor is so low that any resistor will work. Worse case is if the thermistor is 0 ohms which will never occur. Then the current through the resistor is 5V/4.7K or 1.1ma. Power is then current times the voltage drop which is 5V. So 5V * 1.1ma or 5.5mw. The smallest power resistor you would see normally is 1/8watt or 125mw which is much, much high than the actual worse case power which will never happen. Your best bet is to buy a high precision resistor but you don't need to go crazy with that either. 1% is probably enough since I don't think thermistors have super high accuracy either.

Don't know your application but look into ColorFabb XT too.... Warm bed + hairspray works well. I order the 2.85mm version from http://www.printedsolid.com/ very fast shipping in my case... http://www.printedsolid.com/shop/3mm/colorfabb-xt-2-85mm/

Glad to hear you are getting something out of the printer. The indentations might be from the extruder grinding into the filament. This can happen if you are attempting to extrude faster than the nozzle can melt the plastic. It also occurs if the bed is too close to the nozzle effectively plugging the nozzle or you get a real blockage in the nozzle. Once you get the indentation, it's likely, depending on the tension, that the drive won't be able to "push by" the indentation making it worse. It's strange though that you have had to go to such lengths to get the feeder to work. I have a UM1 built by me from a kit and while I can't say the feeder never chews into the filament, I can say that when clamped correctly using nothing but the latch, it usually feeds very well. I don't try to run the printer too fast so the only time I get the filament grinding is when I don't correctly level the bed or have a genuine blockage in the nozzle (I have pets and a lot of pet hair!). Are they older UM1s? If so, you might want to look at the extruder upgrade kit - https://www.ultimaker.com/products/ext-drive-upgrade

EldRick, I see your point. However, sometimes "fishing" does reveal more information or lies. I don't think we should hijack this, so I'll simply disagree with you and leave it at that...

EldRick, I think you are overreacting in my opinion. I think most people ask because of one of the following reasons They want to know if the printer is broken or troublesome (I replaced the fan three times and can't get it to work) They want to know if the printer was used for something it can't handle (I had big dreams to be running a little 3D printing factory for a certain part, but the quality just isn't where I need it yet.). The prospective buyer might want it for the same reason that the owner found it inadequate. They want to know if the owner is having a specific problem and offer help to so that the owner will want to keep it and support the product/company. These people might not be interested in buying but want to help the owner. I don't think it's impolite to ask. The seller can just not respond or respond vaguely or specifically. Or course now I have the question of why the owner feels the printing quality is inadequate if the box is unopened. How could they tell?

Yes, the additional wire is for the tachometer output. However, the issue is that the 3 wire connector won't plug into the 2 wire connector at the end of the cable on the print head. So you can either cut it off and the one on the cable and solder together and shrink warp or tape or cut the one off of the fan and source a 2 pin connector and solder it on Or you can point your browser to the version with the compatible connector.

Just note that the one is a three wire. That manufacturer does make a 24V one in 2 wire - http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Cooling-50x50x10mm-Sleeve-bearing-Skywalking/dp/B00BJCK8WS/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1406379261&sr=1-2&keywords=Skywalking+5010S+24V