anon4321

I was going to suggest that you turn the small fan off and set the temp to one where the material softens like 160-170 and then see if you can pull the filament out. Without the small fan on, I suspect that the heat would creep up the hotend soften the material higher up and possibly allow you to remove it. However, one risk is that some material will stick to areas inside the heatsink not normally hot enough to release the material and you might not be able to get the filament back in. So use the minimum temp and get the filament out as soon as possible so the filament gets soft but not so much that it leaves bits behind.

One thing I do is put the first layer down "hot". This means a bed temp of 70 and a nozzle temp of 225. Then use the tweak at Z deleting the height value and using the layer value of 1 to reset the temps to more suitable. Contrary to what others have said, and it may just be me or the material I print, if the bed temp is less than 62, the part can be come unstuck for me. So I usually use TweakAZ to change layer 1 and beyond to something like 210 and 62. However, you might go cooler on the nozzle. Or this could be completely wrong.

@TMrevlje Ha! I'll let you in on the MeshMixer secret. It is a free program from AutoDesk. You can do a number of things with mesh (which I believe are the triangulated surfaces that form 3D objects). One of which is adding a unique form of support that in some cases uses less material and can leave better surfaces after removal). See the videos and download here: http://www.meshmixer.com/

Never done any serious stuff before getting a 3D printer. If you consider Eagle for PCB desgin as CAD, I have used for a few small things. Shameless plug - did these in DSM: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um-original-bowden-tube-clips-and-retainer Recently purchased Moi3D to do some fan ducts. DSM doesn't have the loft/blend function required for fluid translation between shapes. I really, really wish one of the SpaceClaim packages or Solidworks had hobbyist/enthusiast pricing.... Moi3D for about $300USD is high for some but was something I could afford.

LOL, he waited a whole 37 minutes before pulling the trigger. I have the rev 2 of that kit. I think jason is on his third iteration that has a thicker alu plate and an even stronger connector and stronger relay. I recommend you look for a solid state way of switching it on and off. Jonny who I believe is a electrical engineer came up with cheap circuit using a MOSFET, see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/?p=58402 For an off the shelf but a little pricey solution, I went with a SSR for 30USD. See http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6014-heated-bed-build-and-a-question-about-the-z-stage/?p=55276 Just note that the UM1 control board can NOT switch that much current directly due to limits of the traces, the power switch and power connector. So usually, the on board MOSFET is used to drive something external like a relay, SSR or the MOSFET in Jonny's circuit through a separate power supply.

I would print the levelling square, let it cool the remove it and measure you leveling with calipers. It should be .3 or a little less like .25mm for a little extra "squish". Also, I've seen similar results when the nozzle was partially blocked. Might help if you print with brim or increase the skirt size so that the nozzle is at the right pressure before printing the part.

Have you checked to see if the bed or glass is warped?

Keep an eye on the AS5 and you might want to translate into German for the other thread. Most likely it will dry or lose its thermal conductivity - from http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm Extended Temperature Limits: Peak: –50°C to >180°C Long-Term: –50°C to 130°C So the extended temp line is >180C which implies only for a short duration. The long-term temp is 130C so you will be well over that for even the coolest prints.

Jonny, Try moi 3d, it;s free for 30 days. Darn you!!!! Thanks, I didn't consider that the heater sticks out like 4.5mm, will need to check that.

Good info Martin, I couldn't find a way to recover from installing the wrong firmware that didn't require me to remove the arduino. It might have been the USB hub that I use. If it happens again, I'll try your sequence.

Hey Jonny, I decided to buy moi 3d as I need a duct to work with the UM block. They have a 30 day trial but mine had expired. Basically you draw some curves and then use the loft function. Then the offset function to convert the surface to a solid. moi3d is relatively cheap compared to the others @ 300USD. However, it's not ideal for mechanical shapes as specifying dimensions and distances is a bit cumbersome. It can be used for mechanical shapes but it is really designed for organic shapes. It seems to do just about everything in DSM plus the all important loft function which was recently REMOVED from DSM. Here is a preview of my new fan duct design for the E3D V6 with the UM block that I'm tentatively calling "The Camel Toe": This shows the the curves used To get them it is a lot of trail and error ..

A thermocouple relies on very small voltage produced when two different metals are in contact. The voltage varies with the temperature in a predictable way. However, being very small, it needs the amp board to produce a voltage with enough change so the arduino can be detected. The chip on the amp board also produces something call the cold junction voltage which is required to interpret the small voltage from the junction of the two metals. The K type designation specifies which two metals are used and the mapping of voltage to temperature and how it compares to the cold junction. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple The amp board itself takes 5V from the middle pin of the connector and does it thing to produce a reasonably high voltage to the input and the arduino maps the voltage to a temperature. A thermistor is simply a resistor that varies in resistance as its temperature increases. So the 4.7k resistor ends up connected to 5V and the thermistor forming a voltage divider with the other side of the thermistor connected to ground. The arduino senses the voltage in the middle of the divider. Without the 4.7k resistor, there isn't any voltage or current flowing through the thermistor and the input to the arduino always read a zero voltage. At the top of this page is a sample circuit to sense temperature using a thermistor. http://playground.arduino.cc/ComponentLib/Thermistor The UM follows the pattern of the circuit except that ground and +5V are switch, the resistor used is 4.7k and the thermistor is typically the 100k type. Sorry, I dont know what would contain a 4.7k resistor.

Looks like a good design. Are the ducts positioned correctly? Why aren't they symmetrical ?

Direct. It hard to tell where you have it connected but it should between the pads martked R23, Judging by the fact it appears you have two sensors connected, do you also have a heated bed? If so, you need two 4.7k resistors. One across the R23 pads and one across the R4 pads. This shows where the TWO resistors need to go if you using the E3D thermistor with a heated bed that also uses a thermistor:

Ultimore, did you solder the 4.7k resistor in the correct place on the UM controller shield?

The issue will be the dilution of the ink due to the larger volume of the filament. 2.85 filament has a area of 6.38 vs 2.41 for 1.75. 2.85 has a circumference of 8.95 vs a circumference of 5.5 for 1.75 filament. So 2.85 has 2.65 times the volume of 1.75 filament but only 1.63 times the area to coat with the ink. So I think this means that the ink to filament ratio for 2.85 filament will be 62% of the ratio for 1.75 filament. I did this math without coffee so to might be off but the general point is that there will be less ink per given volume of filament for the 2.85 size.

Well, here is their kickstarter page: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/botfactory/squink-the-personal-electronic-circuit-factory And down towards the end, there is this image: https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/assets/002/222/295/af72ec9899fb84243730527fbcb0ceec_large.jpg?1404322397 Printer looks familiar, head looks extensively modified and some kind of paper is being used as a print surface so...

You can get previous versions of Cura and install and then steal the firmware file. See http://software.ultimaker.com/?show=all

You're welcome. Sander has helped me with a few orders. He will get things straightened out for you.

Use the forum's Personal Messenger function and send a message to SanderVG with your order number and any tickets you opened with customer support.

I believe (but not entirely sure), thin structures will show in the 3D view but the slicer will remove them if they are less than (or possibly equal to) 0.4mm so they won't show in the layers view. I believe the layers view is largely driven by the output of the slicer which is a separate process. So it's possible that Cura will show something in the 3D view and not realize it was removed by the slicer. If the missing items are very thin, you need to make them .4mm (or slightly larger than .4mm) so the slicer doesn't remove them.

On the issue of the E3D hotend, Jonny has done some excellent work on a mount for the UM1. Someone asked about UM2 compatibility and it was noted that the cross axes dimensions are the same between the UM1 and 2. Have a look: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1877-e3d-all-metal-hotend-for-ultimaker/?p=59121 Jonny also recommended XT as a strong material when printed @ 100% infill.

You are obviously an EE and not intimated by a soldering iron! (Did you know those things get hot?!?!?! Soooo many burnt fingers) However, I was just thinking it might be easier for some to not effectively modify the shield and attach the resistor externally.

If I read the schematic correctly, you could temporarily place the resistor between the signal pin (your blue lead) and the middle pin of the connector which supplies 5V. So the blue lead would connect to one leg of the resistor AND one lead of the thermistor. The other lead of thermistor would connect DIRECTLY to the ground pin in the connector (where the second black lead is connected). Then use a third lead to go from the center pin to the UNCONNECTED lead of the resistor.

I would recommend you follow Illuminati's and GR5's advice before you look into Nick's suggestion. It's not that Nick is wrong. It's that when you mess with the drivers and the current settings there is a chance you could blow up the driver. However, if all the pulleys check out per Illuminati's/GR5's direction and you are getting good adhesion, there are two things that could be wrong with the drivers. As Nick suggested, the current setting could be too low or it could be too high. If too low as Nick suggests, the printer will not complete steps when needed during high speed moves and it will lose it's position. If the current is too high or something is blocking the cooling airflow, the driver will overheat and shutdown and steps won't occur when needed. Check that the extruder head moves easily. Lubricate the 8mm shafts with sewing machine oil to reduce the friction and force required to move the head. Check that the drivers still have the heatsinks attached and that the blower is working and the cover is installed correctly. Try jogging the head while trying to stop it with your hand. It should stop fairly easily. Assuming the head moves freely otherwise and is lubricated, if it stops easily, increase the current slightly. If it is hard to stall and the motors are excessively hot after a print, the current might need to be reduced.