anon4321

There is 12V on the board and it goes to power the Arduino. There isn't any filtering on the regulator so hopefully the Arduino filters the line well and the fan doesn't generate a lot of noise. The 12V going to the Arduino is shown here: I'll probably tap off of the VIN and GND right next to it for the fan shown on the edge of the board.

This is the V6 version I'm working on which is a slightly modified version of Nick Foley's V5 hot end. The model is shown with the UM block. You can see where it interferes with the fan duct. To the left is the E3D block. The biggest problem isn't the size of the UM block. The issue is the centered hole for the nozzle. The E3D block has the nozzle pushed to one end which allows the bulk of the block to stick outside the fan duct.

Without flipping the printer over and looking and just going by the schematic, board layout and (worse) memory, those fan connectors don't exist on 1.5.7. Looks like they were there in 1.5.3 http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.3_PCB Then were remove apparently in 1.5.4 http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.4_PCB Not sure why your 1.5.4 still has them but I'm pretty sure the 1.5.7 version I have doesn't have them.

WARNING... I don't believe connecting the small fan to the fan connector on the UM board is appropriate. The little fan is 12V and the fan connector is 19.5 volts (the supply voltage.

It would be best for you to use the forum's personal messenger to message Sander so he is sure to see your request. His address is the same as his forum user name, SanderVG Make sure you include your order number. He has helped me with a few orders when I have used the messenger here. Note that sometimes the messenger is refered to as a DM or direct message.

I wonder if this is actually from UM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42wdyYGmj-o I would love to see other vids in this series...

I believe that in general the marlin firmware has a pause feature and there are expansion connectors on the UM2. While you might need to do some custom coding in the firmware, it should be doable. The nice thing about UM is it is open source. Here is the controller layout and schematic: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf?raw=true And the firmware source: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

while you are waiting, you can try lubricating the rods with a light oil like sewing machine oil. NOTE: DO NOT USE GREASE LIKE THAT USED ON THE Z SCREW. On my UM1, this GREATLY reduces the force required to move the head and is recommended by UM as printer maintenance.

Be aware that artic silver is only rated for around 180c for short term and 130c long term. Depending on where you have used it, it might fail if the location is very hot.

Yep, anything with that port open will prevent a second app from opening the port. For example, if you have Cura open, you can't update the FW through the Auduino IDE. Or Cura open and lost in the background and you open another copy of Cura.

Cool. Sounds like the UM1 heated bed upgrade is going to be nice but it doesn't sound cheap...

Oh, yeah, don't see a need for going beyond 300c I always thought the TC was more accurate too. However, both are probably accurate enough. Hmmm, maybe I'l just use the entire E3D setup sans the heater element if the longer UM1 heater fits....

I was hoping you were going to offer a kit. I'll be the first in line... That price even for a single run isn't too much. I was just looking for companies locally that could do the cutting. However, having a kit with everything worked out is worth the money even if you include some for your profit. The first thing I saw with the local companies is kerf size and it immediately occurred to me that there are a lot of variables and specs to control to the point of being willing to pay more for something someone (you) have already figured out. Are you also mounting the linear rods differently? Otherwise, I don't see how you will get the tolerance right with the press fit bearings. The rods will be either too far or too close. Or worse, not perfectly parallel. I assume that is why the original design has so much slop in it....

That looks sweet! I noticed yesterday that the original Z stage is really wobbly not only front to back which you might expect from the cantilever design but even at the linear bearings it can be "twisted" such that the left side drops and the right side rises or vice versa. Do you even need a tight fit if the bearings are flanged as they appear to be based on the design? I would just use a rotary tool with a sanding drum to open the large holes up or drill out the small holes. In the end, won't the screw through the flanges clamp them in place regardless of the amount of "slop" you open up in the holes? Sorry, can't help you with the leadscrew pitch as I can only supply what they firmware uses. I'm pretty confident that at least from a firmware perspective, the pitch is 3mm from thread to thread.

Re thermocouple.... I believe one reason you would want to use the TC is that it supports higher temps than the thermistor will. I think the thermistor is good to 260C. I'm not sure about this... I forget where I read it so I might be completely off...

I can definitively tell you the the UM1 block won't work with Nick's design. It's not a matter of melting. It is major interference. It would be nearly impossible to assemble the head with Nick's fan duct and the UM1 alu block. However, I think Andi's question was can the heater "core" from the UM1 be used in the E3D block. I will be able to tell you that answer tomorrow as I have a heater "core" from UM being delivered today. As far as using the E3D 12V heater core, the problem is, as Jonny mentioned, the heater will see nearly three times it's rated power. While it's true that power will be "throttled" when the nozzle is at the set point and only see a modest amount of average power, during heat up, the firmware will switch the heater "full on" delivering the 108 watts. The element inside the heater will quickly heat up but the rest of the element and block will take time. If it was a little more power, it probably wouldn't be a problem for the heating element. However, at nearly three times the, that heating element is going to be blistering hot possibly to the point of burning out or igniting something inside the core. And I haven't even mentioned that the UM1's controller shield probably can't deliver the kind of current required for the 12V version. There is also the problem that the UM1's PS is I believe about 130 watts. During heat up, the heater will draw most of that power leaving about 22W. That is probably enough to run the rest but you are getting close.... One possible way to use the 12V heater is to change the maximum PWM used by the firmware. This would prevent the "full on" situation or rather it would limit the full on duration to that of the PWM width. Because the PWM is done fairly fast, the heater will see more of an average and not really the full 108 watts. However, there is still the problem of the board and power supply sourcing the 108W for a brief moment but it might be OK. The problem (as I believe Jonny pointed out earlier in this thread), you need to limit the PWM so much that there might be a problem in the resolution when it gets to the set point. The PWM value runs from 0 - 255 (0 = off, 255 = full on). To adjust this to limit the power, it needs to limit the on time to 40 / 108 or 37%. This would be done by setting the max PWM to 37% of 255 or about 95. This means that where the firmware originally had 255 power levels to regulate the temp at the set point, it would now only have 95. Might work OK but you would be in uncharted territory.

Oh, and one more thing.... gimme,gimme,gimme,gimme.... (for those not from the US, gimme is slang for "give me" implying that I want the design really bad).

Jonny, I believe the original UM1 lead screw is 3mm pitch. If you check the UM1 marlin firmware, the steps per unit of the Z axis is 3/200/8 where 200 is the stepper steps per rotation and 8 is the microstepping setting. This leaves 3 as the pitch. I believe pitch is distance between threads. Or in other words, a nut would move X mm on a screw with a pitch of X mm of the screw is turned one full revolution.

Cool (no pun intended). Just be aware that I believe the blower on the electronics is actually a 24V version. However, as long as the the 12V versions are working on the head, you should get a LOT of air! Also be aware that I believe adding weight to the head may lower the print quality or max speed. If you get "ringing", try reducing acceleration (which also reduces deceleration). This is an example of ringing: http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-THFGNNSA.jpg Seems to be a detailed discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/

This is what I suggest you do - Open Cura Go to File -> Preferences Change the Printing window type to Pronterface and click OK. Use File -> Print to open the printing window. The Pronterface version has bunch of useful stuff. On the right will be a large window showing the responses from the printer. Below that is a smaller text box that can be used to issue commands to the printer. In that smaller box type (no spaces anywhere): M119 In the box above it, you should see the printer respond with the statuses of the endstops. Now move the print head to the front left corner (the home position) and issue the M119 command. You should see the min X and Y endstops activated. Now move the print head to the back right corner and issue the M119, you should see the X and Y max endstops activated. Technically, you should do the same for the Z platform but that doesn't appear to be your immediate problem. All the way up should trip the min endstop (do this test with the hotend cold to avoid damaging the build plate) and all the way down should trip the max Z end stop. If an endstop doesn't close, move the head out of the way and manually close it and hold it closed and reissue the M119 command. If the endstop now shows it is closed then the slider block (the block that slides along the edge) isn't engaging the endstop level and you will need to figure out why. If it doesn't manually close, you should check the wiring. If, however, everything checks out, close the print dialog, move the head to the center and turn off the printer and unplug the USB. Then plug in the USB and power the printer back on. This sets the printer up as the center position as 0, 0. Go to File -> Print again. Now on the left of the printer window, there is something that looks a little like a target. The outer most ring moves the head (edited:) 100mm, the next one moves it 10mm, the next inner ring moves 1mm and the middle ring moves .1mm. (edited: review the values displayed and use the next smallest so the head doesn't go crashing into anything) I believe that if you are sitting in front of the printer, clicking the rings towards the top moves the head towards the back of the printer, clicking to the left moves it left, right moves right and bottom moves towards the front. Using the 1mm ring, move the head around and confirm that the head moves in the expected direction. Post the results of your tests. Don't panic of the top->move to the back and bottom->move towards the front seems backwards as I might be wrong. Just tell us what direction it moves when you click the top, left, right and bottom parts of the target like thing using the 1mm "ring".

gr5, to me, the long belt on the X axis is also twisting. Looking at it closely, there does seem that the short belt might be touching the wood at the motor side pulley.

Wait for others to respond but the first thing I noticed is that the belts are twisting. I think this is due to the pulleys not being aligned causing the belt to ride to one edge and then it rides up that edge slightly. Not sure that would cause your problem because your problem looks very consistent. However, to fix, loosen the pulley on one end of the belt so it can side on the rod. Then move the carriage towards the pulley and see if the pulley sides a little. Then tighten the pulley in (I assume) its new position then repeat for the other pulley on that belt. Then repeat on the first pulley then on the other pulley. The object of this is to get the pulleys exactly inline with the point that the belt is attached to the slider block. For the short belts, loosen the pulley on the rod, make sure the pulley has some space on the rod between the long belt pulley and turn the stepper motor pulley and hopefully you will see the pulley on the other end of the belt slide some. Make sure you tighten everything.

I tried printing my modified "Foley" design yesterday and found - - It's really hard to print and became unstuck 5mm before completion. - The heatsink fan shroud is too low and less than 1mm away from the heater block. - The "print cooling shroud" is not going to work with the UM block :-( I will need to adjust. Mental note: Make a copy of the object before adding rounds and chamfers in DSM....

As Jonny noted, make sure you request a 24V of the heater.

I have some interest in the post-print processing. But more of the type of processing someone might do to create a special effect or finish and NOT the kind that "fixes" a print beyond support/raft removal and light sanding. For example, if someone had the bronze fill stuff, I'd like to see how it was finished after printing. However, my original intent was to learn how to control various things to get the best print right off the platform or just after breaking off the support.