onkelgeorg

Hi, regarding #5: Your are looking not for an extruder but for a feeder I think I use this one for a couple of months an I really like it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27626 hth, Joerg

meinte natürlich Holzteile :oops: Ich plane gerade auch den Bau eines UM1 weil ich viele Teile dafür herum liegen habe. Nur das Druckergehäuse fehlt mir Mein erster UM1 ist jetzt auch ziemlcih genau 1 Jahr alt

Hi Didi, genau so mache ich das auch, über den Startcode. Jetzt ist tatsächlich die Frage, welcher Pin steuert den PWM Ausgang? Und: Was ist mit den Anschlussmöglichkeiten bei EXP3? Kann man da auch etwas mit steuern? Bin sehr gespannt wie es hier weiter geht. btw: woher hast du deine Holteile für das Gehäuse? Gruß, Jörg

Hi Didi, ich weiß ja nicht ob dir das weiter hilft aber versuche mal heraus zu finden ob der M42 Befehl in der Ultimaker Marlin Variante funktioniert. Bei meinem 3DR schalte ich den zweiten Lüfter z.B. über M42 P8 Sxxx, wobei P8 die Pin Nummer und Sxxx die Geschwindigkeit ist. Jetzt musst du nur heraus finden ob deine Pins geschaltet sind und wenn ja über welche Nummer sie geschaltet werden. Gruß, Jörg

Hi all, this is just an update regarding this project, as my 3DR printer is running pretty well now. Building it was not always fun but finally it was absolutely worth it, as one learns a whole lot about 3D printers and how they work. And last but not least meeting Stefan and Philip was great fun too and especially with Stefan a new friend was won. Here are some photos of the finished printer and a 200mm vase printed in less than 3 hours @ 70mm/s: Later I will upload two small files, on youmagine. One adaptor to fit the new Hall-O pcb to the original 3DR mounting and one cable guide. EDIT: Here is a small video:

Hi Stefan, thanks for this great profile. Works fine on my UM1 and saves a lot of time. Only had one problem with a z-scar on one case (3 other cases came out well), so it seems the z-scar is a design related issue? I owe you a sixpack of 'Fassbrause' when we meet again

sorry for the late reply. Thanks a lot for your answer. It gives me an idea, that's all I needed

video speed is at 400% I forgot to mention :oops: but I think it would be possible to print with 4x times the speed in reality too. IIRC travlling was S500 and drawing S1000 - why? because I made a mistake while editing the gcode

Hi all, my 3DR is about to be finished soon. Unfortunately I broke my Merlin Hotend and while I had to wait for a new one I decided to give it a go with a pencil

Hi Burki, how long did it take to assemble it?

voila: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

btw: I am considering to ask a friend with a lathe to produce some of this parts. But unfortunately the measurements in the technical drawing of this part #1055A2P-B are not complete. Does some have the complete measurements of this part?

@Robert: Thanks for your answer, I will check it this weekend. Hopefully it's just a loose connection, but... @Peggy: Thanks for the images. After seeing the second image I am almost sure that the Teflon is damaged. My last prints looked pretty similar to your "before" image

Hi Peggy, thanks for your reply. That is exactly what I was afraid of. Shouldn't this part last longer than 9 months?

Hi Sebastian, ich kann da zwar nicht direkt weiter helfen, aber evtl. ist das eine Alternative? http://www.quadrantplastics.com/de/produkte/zerspanbare-kunststoffe/temperatur-160-220-c/fluorosint-R-verstaerktes-ptfe.html

Hi all, since a couple of weeks I have a strange problem on my UMO hotend. When the filament cooled down after a print and is re-heated I have massive problems to remove it from the print head. There is massive pull required to remove the filament. If I leave the filament in the hotend and start a new print there will be no material flow until I remove the filament, cut off the slightly thicker end (with a small rim at the end) and re-install the filament. After this procedure the print runs without problems. This problem haven't occured within the first 6 months of printing. So I think something must be wrong inside of the hotend. There are no leaks or broken parts visible... Any help is appreciated Cheers, Joerg

now after blast cleaning and polishing again it is even more shiny

@Didier: Z=60mm @pm_dude: no Dremel, steel wool and polishing paste

The well known celic skull in bronzefill will now going to try different methods of cleaning (e.g. blast cleaning), polishing and aging...

Das Projekt ist leider auf "hold" gesetzt worden, weil es da irgendwelche (finanziellen?) Probleme gab. Wie es weiter geht entscheidet sich in den nächsten Wochen. Mehr kann ich dazu nicht berichten. Also leider kein Linkfehler :(

Stefan, deine Farbkombi ist der absolute Hammer, gefällt mir richtig gut Bei mir wird die Hauptfarbe schwarz, was ich als Kontrastfarbe nehme weiß ich noch nicht - wird morgen entschieden...

Call it like you want, the shipping costs are not ok. There are many examples that there are better ways to go. Colorfabb manages to ship to Germany from 7,95 (one spool) to 4,95 (three spools). From 4 spools (~€ 144.-) shipping is free. Shipping to Belgium (Hello Didier ) is 4,95 I think you chose the easiest way for you and the worst way for the customers - this is also a decision but not a good one for your customers. It would be really great if you could reconsider your decision and find a better solution for the people that at least pay your wage: your lovely customers

das ist auch *richtig* rot: http://colorfabb.com/traffic-red#.U-C7svl_vfs

Hi all, thanks for the answers. Unfortunately C4D is too expensive I'm looking for freeware possibilities. @Deepshots: Unfortunately 123D Design has not Is there any freeware this can be done with?

Hi Wayne, are the print plates available in Europe too? If not: How much the shipping cost will be to Germany?