eldrick

Multiply Objects also seems to be buggy in re. adding and then subtracting objects. I've had 14.03 lock up by simply Multiplying an object, and then deleting some of the added new ones and Multiplying one of the added objects instead of the original.

You can also use the process above to change the settings of the Default ABS and PLA choices. IIRC, this option did not seem to appear until I had created two new custom Settings - Custom1 and Custom2. After that, the Customize feature allowed me to save my changes over the ABS and PLA Settings.

Excellent idea - I'll use Printrun and report back. The print that brought this to my attention, as sliced by Cura with stock UM2 settings, was a good 5mm wider than the machine would do without collision. The head hit the rod still printing the skirt, and slid along it, basically truncating the skirt along that side.

It is the extruder carrier head hitting the right-side black slider block on the rod. I'm pretty sure that either Marlin or Cura should be preventing this from happening.

Or just use a room air cleaner with a good charcoal (for chemicals) and HEPA filter(for particulates), which I do.

There appears to be a goof in what I'm guessing is either the Marlin or the Cura definition of the printbed size. I was trying to get a maximum-size print by scaling it in Cura, and discovered that because of the off-center extruder position in the head, one cannot print in the inch or so at the right edge of the printbed - not at all, no matter what you do. If there were a second extruder installed one could use it to print there, but not with a single-extruder U2. In doing this I created a piece that was nearly the width of the printbed, and when printed, the extruder carrier collided hard with the rod at the top of the right side of the machine. This stresses everything a lot and makes a horrible noise when it happens, and could conceivably even cause a belt to skip. This sure seems like a bug...

OK - so what is a good value for infill overlap? The Help text in Cura is uninformative on the topic. And what is the value a percentage of?

ABS is Not OK in a typical home environment. Do realize that "typical" homes can be up to 75% humidity or even higher if you open a window. ABS quickly absorbs moisture to the point where you can hear tiny crackling sounds when some of the moisture turns to steam in the extruder. This produces a blivet on the print where the expansion of steam in the nozzle forces out extra plastic. Note that ABS can absorb .3% or mositrure by weight in 24 hours, and up to .7% at saturation: http://www.machinist-materials.com/comparison_table_for_plastics.htm So keep your ABS in sealed containers with a dessicant. I use large airtight plastic storage bins with an Eva-Dry dryer in each bin. Also, drying filament does not make it more brittle. If some shattered after desiccation, it would be coincidental, not causative.

It would be less reader-hostile to post the gcode as a downloadable file instead of as embedded text.

In the US, Ultimachine and Protoparadigm are also top-tier filament providers.

Or you could just read the Z-coordinate of each move, and when it drops (to the baseplate) from one move to the next, that's the start of a new part. Tough to do in a text editor, of course...

I had the same experience. Had to reduce the fan speed to hold high temperature.

Thanks - .04mm it is. BTW, UM2 easily makes it's claims on layer height. I'm printing a piece right now in clear ABS at .03mm with no issues at all.

I'd bet against you, gr5. BTW, if you break your glass plate, you would be out of luck, because Ultimachine tells me that they don't have any available.

I'm in the middle of a 25-hour PLA print. I made the duct from ABS, and no apparent softening yet.

My experience is that thinner layers seem to help alleviate the problem on overhangs. IMHO this is simply because with thinner layers the overhang is less for each layer, so it has less material hanging out to curl, and being thinner, the material can cool faster after extrusion and is "frozen" into shape before it has time to curl.

makershed.com has them in stock in the US.

This works well for the spool-holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/30mm-spoolholder-ultimaker2

+1 for MOI. I've designed my products with it.

Just having a color key for the layers view would be a big improvement all by itself.

I have had similar experience with the UM2 - all good. After spending a year tweaking another highly-reputed 3D printer, the UM2 blows it away right out of the box. it's like comparing a Mac(intosh) to a Mac Truck. I'm producing parts at .060mm layer height with no problem at all (other than impatience). Of course, there is the usual quota of adhesion failures and aborted prints for one reason or another, but overall my experience after a week with the UM2 has been overwhelmingly positive.

Mine (new last week) did 10mm/s sec no problem, with moderate horizontal blurring of the text at 10. I probably could have raised the temp 2-3 degrees to reduce this issue. I'm a happy boy - great printer.

Is there a 14.03 TEST2 version for Mac?

I've only had warping a couple of times with ABS, with prints up to 10" tall. The key seemed to be ambient temperature: when my printer was running for a while it would warm the room up to 80-82F, and that allowed the ABS to cool evenly enough that the layers did not separate or warp. Like a souffle, don't open the oven door while cooking...

I like the idea of a dial indicator, but doesn't the downward pressure of the spring in the gauge cause a mis-reading by pushing the bed down?