svanbennekom

Hi all, First of all, very sorry to hear about these problems. You'd help us greatly in figuring out what the cause is by answering the following: 1 - What UM number is on the spool label? 2 - What batch number is on the small sticker? 3 - What settings are you using to print? 4 - What problems are you encountering?

It's also possible to use different gcodes. Assuming A=non conductive, B=conductive: 1. First you print an object with A. The print finishes 2. Switch material A->B 3. Then you print an object with B. You have to make sure that the position of the print is exactly on top of the previous print, and that the print head moves in such a way that it does not hit the previous print. Basically insert gcode so that the head moves above your previous print volume, and then moves towards the print area. Print finishes. 4. Switch material B->A 5. Similar to step 3, make sure your layers are exactly on top of the previous print and that your print head moves in such a way that it does not hit previous layers. This is workable even if the conductive material is not all in one layer, but it will be very laborious.

Dear US, We know you like the imperial system. However, the rest of the world has switched to a superior measuring system. Seems like it would be simple to switch.

Hoi Victor, Wat voor filament gebruik je? De printer gaat namelijk uit van 2,85 mm. Mocht je toevallig 3,0 mm gebruiken krijg je dus overextrusie. Meet voor de lol eens met een schuifmaat de diameter van je filament. Anders kun je met de flow setting spelen (lager dan 100% zetten) om hiervoor te corrigeren.

Hi Robin, This material has high melt strength. That means that you'll have to watch out with retraction heavy prints and print slower in general. I'd say try 40 mm/s @ 0.1mm and work from there. If you keep having trouble it might be a nozzle clog or your teflon is worn out. Hope this helps!

Replying in english because my german isn't that good: Check our shop soon for a new material called 'UPET'. It has a higher glass temperature and should survive the summer

Hi Mariem, Could be a multitude of issues unfortunately. You'll generally get grinding if: Your nozzle is starting to clog, so that the feeder needs to push harder but can't and instead grinds into the filament: Solution: Try to print an underextrusion cone, you can find them on the forum. Also try the atomic method to clean your nozzle. Your teflon is deformed, so that the same thing happens Solution: Open up your head and inspect the teflon, replace if needed. You do a print with alot of retractions (the material is moving back and forth alot) Solution: Tinker with your retraction settings The material you're using is too soft Solution: Try a different brand of material, or a different type Your feeder axis becomes too hot and heats the filament, which then loses stiffness and gives way Solution: Put a fan or it, or try a feeder design with a gear reduction And if you're unlucky: A combination of the above Solution: Reserve a sunday and stock up on pizza

Met direct drive doe je wel concessies aan de snelheid waarmee je kunt extruderen. De motor is dan namelijk snel gelimiteerd op koppel. Heb je al geprobeerd om herringbone gears te printen en die te gebruiken? Dan heb je als het goed is ook minder backlash.

Is this with a printerbot? It really depends alot on your setup. A good idea is to create a gcode that extrudes a certain amount of material, say 100 mm, and then measure what your machine actually extrudes. Multiply that by the average diameter of your filament, and you've got the total volume extruded. Divide by the diameter you've set in cura times a hundred and you've got the flow rate you should set, unless I'm mistaken or made a math error.

If you find such a website, please let me know :-P

Hi pikata, What brand of filament are you using? Is this a fresh nozzle, or have you printed other materials before this? Have you tried cleaning the nozzle using the atomic method?

We are aware that the nozzles wear down when printing materials with hard fillers. This is due to the nozzle currently being brass, which is unfortunately fairly soft. Whether this is what happened here, and the result of the glow-material, I cannot say, but it seems the most likely explanation at this point. Unfortunately it isn't possible to design something as an open system and foreseeing all possible use-cases, but we'll keep trying anyway

Regarding your original post, I think 0.2 mm x 50 mm/s should be attainable at 240 degrees on an UM2, going by some tensile testing I did on printed test bars.

You're spot on that the heat gradient is the killer. I've predominantly seen PVA glue used to combat warping. Other options are building a wall around your object that keeps in hot air, or modify your printer to be enclosed and heating it up to just under the glass temperature of the material. I'm not so sure whether your idea would fully work, since shrinkage is proportional to the size of the object, and changing the direction of your lines just changes the direction of shrinkage. Have you tried to write any gcode for it to do some experiments?

Try to find out who manufactured the spool and send it to them and ask for a new spool. If it's from a reputable manufacturer they'll probably send you one. If not, well, you tried. In the worst case situation you have spent 20-30 on information on where not to buy spools.