Titus

But how do you get it off the bed ?

No it didn't (yet). Still 1,5 of those on the glass.

Ok, I don't know what happened. Can't seem to get the XT Carbon fill off the bed, completely destroys the print(luckily not the bed). What did I miss, more glue/less glue/no glue. More/less heat/tape? I did the 75degrees bed as described and even broke my tools:

I just found this out the hardway Luckily only on the top parts.

@neotko @SandervG I'm about to 'just do it' But when I was looking at the settings in this screenshot: https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/1300x0/570e001c0e2bb/cura-settings.jpg I was wondering, .1mm or .2mm layer height. Only esthetic difference, or also preformance? Also a 0.6 top bottom thickness, on a .2mm layer height? Are you sure the top is going to close and not cause pillowing: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing?

Damn that is quite a nice print! Hetzers gonna Hetz! What model is this? Did the short belts do the trick? If not, how are your first layers? Could be that the bed is slightly too low?

@SandervG, nice! @neotko, Thanks, I'll have a look. I believe I have some Colorfabb Carbonfill samples. Should be enough. Ideally you would print 1 set with your original fanshroud, install, and print a new one with the improved fanshroud to perfect it Nice writeup also on the testing of PWM etc, though I'm not sure if it would really be that bad to have 2 fans 100%, as Joris once said about 3D printing and speed: my problem is not how fast I can put plastic down, but rather how fast I can cool it. I'll keep you posted! Might try this before I continue my geared heart prints.

-Do we print it like the part is opened in cura, or flat in the same way the image shows? Since the support issue looks like the imported orientation, as do the actual prints(also the readytoprint file). The cura screenshot with the settings however shows the flat orientation. -Is the cap easy to remove so we can change nozzles? Or can you do that without removing the fan cap? -Have you had experience with other carbon filaments(Colorfabb?) -Also, anything to take in mind regarding hot end dimension settings in Cura?

Sweet, the Dutch reseller now has a lot of stuff you can buy! Only without images I have NO CLUE what some things are, like http://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-main-cable.html or http://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-print-head-hot-end-holder-26849970.html or what is included in http://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-fan-pack-v12-umo.html or http://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-fan-duct-pack-umo.html

Damn, I might actually have to print these for myself. Or design ones alike for other kitchen tools! Cool! Thanks for sharing.

I've spend so many hours in the Division already, even the single player only is worth it! Then again, I like loot grinding I did enjoy Rainbow six Siege, but haven't really played that since the Division My main game remains World of Tanks, which is quite awesome in clan gameplay. Occasionally(when there is new singleplayer) I enjoy Starcraft and Diablo 3.

things like this, the search engine, I keep getting the feeling that I miss stuff here, and visit less frequently :(

I think the thin wing was printing upwards, and at some point got tipped over, and printed upon. Either try more bed adhesion by tuning up the bed temperature, use gluestick, print slower, print two at the same time so each has more cooling time, or use lift cool head settings. Without more details it's hard to say which would be best. I don't know how the design was made, so I'm afraid I can't answer the second question As to the bearings, just get any bearing with the size mentioned in the ultimaker 2 BOM(check their github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2) from a local hardware store/order.

I think there is a clog in the nozzle, some filament is still stuck inside the nozzle/bowden tube, due to breaking when trying to remove it all. Depending on your printer I'd say the best way is to heat up the printer to 260 degrees C or so, and either try pushing the filament out again, or take the hot end apart and the removing the clog(probably the melted plastic went up to far and cooled down in a higher part of the printer.

Not entirely, though I use notifications from the bell and they SOMETIMES point me to the last unread post, sometimes top of the page, sometimes bottom. Also they stay in unread topics even though I read them

I'm also still getting sick of the search, sometimes it actually works and I am amazed rather than normal. The problem with Labern's example already starts with the fact the SITE is being given as the first tab, rather than the forum: https://ultimaker.com/search?keyword=information%20during%20print&category=0&type=0 Imo there a little topics the site gives a better page for than the forum(you can see from what page the request came, right? Then show me the forum is I search using the forum). Also I believe hits in the title of a topic should be prioritized, especially if there are multiple words in the same order.

No, though the shape is different, I was thinking more off a functional non esthetic part.

Yeah, many people voiced these concerns, and their FAQ also is quite short about some things like the clear bottle(demonstration purpose, will be black bottle), etc etc. I think it would be a super cool product if it was relatively fast(we all want to keep using our smartphone) and safe(uhm yeah), and easy and cheap. Guessing it isn't I wouldn't bet my money on it.

Pretty cool as a toy! Less useful due to build platform restrictions. Given the fact that there is little machinery I can understand the price point. I wonder how much resin it uses and how expensive that is. It is still super cool, check it out: But yeah, semi skeptical.

Lol yeah, cool! That is one large piece of text

When I open my standard page with unread posts, I open a few(say 5) in a new tab that interest me, and click next page. BUT when the next page loads, the couple I opened are now marked as read, therefore leave 5 spots open on the first page. When the second pages loads, 5 topics that were there originally have now moved to the first page, causing me to miss them. Not sure how this can be fixed(perhaps don't use pages?) as keeping track of what was on that specific page is probably not possible/desirable.

Is the noise like air, or is there a mechanical noise too? In the last case it would help to peel the sticker off, put a drop of sewing oil(you should have it for your silver rods anyway, if not, buy it!) on it. That should to the trick

Useful upgrades of life. And here I was, thinking it would be fun to print a handle to replace the broken one on the fride xD

@APRP, the bed is either driven down or gravity does it(not sure on UM2e), but either way, you can use Gcode to make sure it doesn't. For example in my UMO end code there is: G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off So I imagine if it's driven down there should be a line that either G28 Z0 (if homing is done downwards), or another command, some UM2 owner would have to fill the gap here. Remove that. And also remove the steppers off M84. Then I think the build plate should stay in position, as the steppers are still powered. Again I'm not 100% sure, but something like this could work.

I can only think off that you hit the connector some crazy way causing a short circuit. What happens if you keep the power OFF, but plugin an USB cable?