Titus

This. I'm still seeing myself visit less than before the nerf :(

Sweet!

Curious to see where this goes

May the 4th be with you!

Nop, time got the better of me. So much stuff left to do!

WD40 is used to remove stuff like grease, dirt etc. NOT to lubricate things. Get some sewing oil! And only apply that to the shiny axes. Use grease for the spindle.

Als je meer informatie geeft kunnen we je beter helpen. Wat voor type printer, welke elektronica/firmware/software gebruik je? In principe zou het homen van de printer ervoor moeten zorgen dat hij weer weet wat 0,0,0 is. Je kan hiervoor het G28 gcode voor gebruiken: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29

real creative people will be able to upgrade there UMO with the kit They can, but do they want to? What if they are running a different type of modded ultimaker etc?

Cool! Though I must ask, why again an UM2 focused price :( I know we had the discussion last time too, but you are excluding so many creative people that own a UMO, UMO+, UM2Go(not entirely sure here), and all the 2+ owners. Ofcourse they can win it, can try to use it or give it away. But it takes away the incentive.

Yeah, Multiple upload is available when you go to your albums etc, but when I'm drafting a post I have to upload 1 at time. And when I want to add multiple pictures in a post(which are already uploaded), I have to do that for each picture.

@neotko, take care of your loved ones before you take care of us At your first post, do you mean these gaps to the right? I believe making parts that are under the fan even higher, instead of part that sandwitches the hot end, could solve this also. I see, luckily making a hole bigger is easier than making it smaller Yeah, I was thinking about that. The bending doesn't hit the bed. So the only thing affected could be the airflow? About the flame, when subjected to a lot of heat it becomes fluidlike, and it shrinks a little upon cooling, I'm not sure if it becomes harder to bend, my broken pieces won't really allow to test it. The one part that I had broke, but I kinda put that in the flame for a while

This one also just send me to the top of the page. Not sure what you mean with your first question?

Nice! I won't be doing this anytime soon though, no need, and loads of leftover 2.85 material But the control is amazing you have with 1,75.

Notifications keep sending me to the top of this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20018-upgrade-your-ultimaker-2-with-the-extrusion-upgrade?page=9#unread also, when inserting images into a post can we have 2 things? -multi upload in a post(I know it works from albums, but pretty please also in posts?) -multi insert into post, now I have to click image, select album, search picture, remember which I already did, insert, each time.

My first thoughts, images are below: -no holes in the fanshroud made it hard as I couldn't allign 4/4 holes. I ended up 3/4. A shame, but luckily I will be the only one -The long m3 rods appear way to large on my printer somehow. Perhaps I need to install spacers at the top. -The long m3 rods were turning way to tough, I had to use tools. Probably the allignment of the drilled out holes that is not 100% -In my case with the long m3 rods I don't understand the top right/left parts, other than create some more space between the metal and the shroud. But I would rather use the bottom left/right parts and scale those in z axis, that would be more beneficial I think. -The shroud is kinda leaning on the outsides, causing the middle to move towards the hotend. This could be fixed by the above scaling I think. -The hot end part is REALLY close to the hot end, and the nozzle is sticking out quite a lot. Not sure how that was supposed to be, and if it would be better to have the fan shroud itself sit a little closer to the bed? -I haven't tested it yet, as I dont have any kapton tape at all. So that will be a later stage!

I'll be your tester I'll let you know if something else breaks down Yeah I got a nice set, with the corresponding drills, I believe it's 2.5 or 2.4 depending on the material the drill is meant for(steel or brass). But only a hand drill, so I'll have to be careful there and start with like 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm.

I hope I can manage to drill the holes without breaking it :( I only have a hand drill.

@neotko, @SandervG, I just spotted a rather sad mistake in the STL file The 50x50 fan duct doesnt have the holes for the fan :( I just finished the print and I depleted all my XT-CF20 :( I'll upload pictures of the print asap

Yup, currently 44% of trying again, this time without original fanshroud to prevent stringing to get stuck. Going very steady and nice. Pausing it at 80% however, to swap out the almost depleted filament sample to a half finished sample of the XT-CF20 Living on the edge.

Progress: I messed the print up because I tried to ninja some things away that were getting stuck in my old fan shroud. Hit hotend, skipped steps, by print :( But atleast I got it right! Now I hope I have enough material left to finish the print :(

60, no glue, pops right off at room temperature Onto the rest of the print!

I haven't tried bluetape. In my pre-HBK days I remember that was pretty shitty and I could never get it off. @neotko, on the Colorfabb site they say for XT-CF20 Advised Heated bed 60-70C So I'll print it with 60, no glue, and try the fridge to get it off

@Blizz, the problem is not the lack of adhesion, but the opposite Did the part come off easily without the gluestick? And what temps were you printing on? 245/70?

I'll have a look, but given the limited nature of my XT-CF20 I don't want to waste more of it being stuck I wonder, using no glue at all, will it stick less, or is the component in the glue making it stick less when it is cooled down.

I let it cool, and then my picture happened