Blizz
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Blizz
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I would just send another mail after it. These kind of waiting times are unacceptable.
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Initially I would think the same, to use the tension screw on the feeder to ad more tension. However the picture you have with the nodges in the bowden tube part of the filament seems like grinding to me. If adding more tension doesn't help, there might be a partial clog in your nozzle preventing the printer from pushing through plastic. But indeed, start with the tension.
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Yeah indeed. Poor bloke. It http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6477-machine-walked-off-edge-of-table/, luckily.
I really like your solution, practical, pretty. If I was handier I would probably manufacture a cabinet that could hold all my spools. I wouldn't have enough with the one rail.
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I've managed to install octoprint and connect it but i can't seem to make it start a print correctly. Are you really expected to move the build plate to the correct location, heat up the nozzles and then start it? It just starts printing without heating. If I actually heat everything first then it starts printing in mid air
Not really useful except for temperature monitoring for me so far
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Very cool. Wonder if the vibrations during prints wont be strengthened like this. Seem to recall a topic here in the forum from someone who's UM2 "walked" of the table during prints several times without something under it :/
(Luckily mine doesn't move.)
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Unfortunately I have to agree with Nicolinux, I also change filament almost every print
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3dcase: The model on thingiverse is customizable. You can open it in Customizer (above the download button) and change settings.
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I've asked for http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6428-manual-refresh-of-render-time/ a while back.
The best solution that came out is to do all your settings with an empty buildplate, which I now do (if I remember)
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Weird. I've been using it for a couple of weeks and don't have much issues. Even when I printed that vase, which - for some reason not clear to me yet - was skipping a lot, the underextrusion remained very limited. And that's only with that clear filament, it seems to behave differently. No problems at all with the rest.
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Not entirely sure but it seems to indicate some space between your teflon and the nozzle. In any case, I don't have this when I do an atomic.
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You make valid points. I guess I'll just print it in PLA.
On the other hand, I'll probably include a spool of ABS on my next filament order and print it again.
Thanks for trying this and reporting back, I had no clue which of those would work or not
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Welcome Jan!
This is a free topic to talk about stuff that keeps us busy, so "asking for directions" is perfectly okay in my book
The stock UM2 feeder does not deal well with flexible. The advise you'll get everywhere around this forum is to simply use here.
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I've been considering printing one for a long time but I was wondering if printing them in PLA isn't a risk? Its pretty sensitive to heat and so close to the printhead... Might be better in ABS no?
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might also be handy to look at.
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http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19031 - 15x15x20.5cm
Came out looking very nice, unfortunately not waterproof due to some extrusion issues (and the bottom is pretty leaky)
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The vase came out really nice but is not water proof. The sides are okay (up til the point where the feeder started jumping back because of too much pressure) but the bottom is really leaking.
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Selmo that's pretty much exactly what I said when I was asked at the Ulti-Evening what i would improve on my UM2
Now let's hope it will be done. -
Damn you Titus, now I have to print a vase too
No all kidding aside, I tried one the past week and it leaked more water than a sieve, so I really want to get this.
If the spiralize limits the entire thing to 1 pass, isn't there an alternative way to get a thicker wall but still relatively waterproof? Wouldn't know how that would work spiral wise if you're trying to keep a single strand of plastic going though, but I still consider myself a newbie regarding 3D printing so there's lots I don't know
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I wasn't insinuating that Daid
I (kinda) trust you :-PJust didn't feel like browsing through the code as I don't really know where to start.
But I could've done a github search in the repository
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Damn I completely missed that when I ordered there. I bought 4 or 5 colors and the glow in the dark but overlooked the filaflex. Thanks for the link.
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Ah okay, nice to know
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Sander: Where do you guys buy the filaflex and other exotic stuff?
123Print.nl doesn't have it.
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Any reason Cura tries to connect to that IP when starting up? I realise it might be local to my LAN, but I have no clue why it would try to connect to a local IP, let alone one that is not in use..
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Well I guess you guys have the numbers and it is up to you to decide, I was just thinking out loud
If the cases are so low and the replacement parts are shipped quickly enough it should be fine indeed.
I've been evaluating printers for over 2 years before I decided to purchase the UM2.
I can't imagine how I would feel if - after such a long wait - a printer would arrive that doesn't work because of shipping damage. Would probably track down the delivery guy and mess him up
Extrusion and other issues
in Coffee corner
Posted
Look at the screw with which the knurled wheel is mounted and wait for that ping. If you're experiencing what I think you are you'll see it jump back about 1/4th rotation as you hear the sound. It's the filament being pulled back because of too much pressure.
If so you still might have a partial clot or something hindering the flow of plastic.
Btw if you're using PLA, don't heat it to 260° unless you printing at a very high speed, it'll burn and you have even more chance creating a clot